GTA
Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2 and springers ,rams => 3D printing and files => Topic started by: scion19801 on September 24, 2020, 05:16:28 PM
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i just did alot of research and ended up getting the Ender 3 pro. First venture into this area. I have played alot with 3d modeling software. I have had several 3d parts made/printed by others. I have a need for more parts. so figured Y not get my own setup and jump in.
Gonna be here towards the end of the month :(. But collecting improvement parts in the mean time. Also got a roll of PETG and PLA.
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Good Luck in the new venture Dan, I started with an Ender 3 Pro and gave that to my son when i got the Ender 5 Pro, virtually the same machine in my opinion. Enjoy.
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i chose it due to the open source and parts availability. plus later on i can extend the size for even larger prints. should be an interesting venture.
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i chose it due to the open source and parts availability. plus later on i can extend the size for even larger prints. should be an interesting venture.
thats actually a huge appeal , especially after seeing scott hull build his 955mm printer last week.. congrats.. 3d printing is an endless adventure , much like airguns.
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I got the ender3 and couldn’t be happier. It didn’t take me long to switch to the all metal hotend and hard nozzle so I could print the cf nylon.
Good luck!
Dave
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Welcome to the club I have an ender 3 and they are quite nice for the price. There are a lot of parts you can print to upgrade it. i like PETG my self.
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I have printed with cf petg and have a hard time telling it from cf nylon. I like both.
Dave
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Good Luck in the new venture Dan, I started with an Ender 3 Pro and gave that to my son when i got the Ender 5 Pro, virtually the same machine in my opinion. Enjoy.
I thought that the Ender 3 was a standard Cartesion printer, and the Ender 5 is a CoreXY printer. Much different if that's the case.
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I did get the upgraded dual metal feed roller kit for it. It appears the Bowden tube may be the next area. May even do the hotend as well. as the c.f. Filament has caught my attention. So many tweaks that can be done.
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well got the printer today and got it assembled. filament spools are a few days out yet. gonna try a test run with the stuff that came with it and do the first test print and see what happens.
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My bowden tube did not last long now I have that capricorn tube it has probably 3x the spools through it now than the stuff ender sends.
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Yeah. I had heard that. I do have a Capricorn tube in my cart. But also looking for an all metal or conversion kit to change the throat in the hot end and get the tube more out away from things.
My initial testing and leveling turned out well. It was a pretty simple process. Mine is currently in a 4+ hour print that is almost 80% done and looking very nice.
Will be reprinting the part again once my petg filament arrives, but figured it would be a good test to see what it can do and how durable it will be. Doing a side wheel form my hawks vantage scope.
Setup was so simple. Not sure why some have issues. Mine even came with clips for the Bowden tube clamps to help keep them tight.
I can see this being a fun venture and definitely got to build a good stock of filaments.
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First print done. Came out decent for a trial/usable part. See a few things that need tweaking. Both the top and bottom there could be closed up better. Gotta figure that out as I'm sure it an adjustment in the slider to take care of that. It's also got a touch thicker band around the bottom that the top doesn't have. I'll get some pics posted later today on the area's. 4 hour 3 minutes at the current settings. No issues and ran smoothly for the duration. certainly appears I got things set well for running pla. Now to get better fiery and last layers sealed up better.
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Sounds like top and bottom thickness needs increased try .8 to 1mm thick.
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ok i'll try that. according to my cura slicer both my top and bottom are 7 layers and .08mm thick.
Edit:
I wonder if its the particular infill pattern that would make a difference? I had used cubic initially. looking at it and a lines or grid one looks maybe more like what i'd like it to be. Using 1mm top and bottom and changed to 9 layers versus the 7 layers.
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as promised pics of my first print.
first one it the front
second is the back
third is the best i could get of the side. the left edge of the side is the base layer and you can see a slight lip
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looks good , you are up and running !
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well. i got my spool of pla today, petg is still in route. tried to print an air stripper for my gauntlet but i don't care for how lose it fit the barrel. my dual gear feeder should be here today as well. I'm currently doing the mini test calibration so see if i can get dimensions dialed in better.
I spent almost 3 hours trying to get firmware flashed and take advantage of having thermal protection enabled. Don't need any fire incidents. safety first. come to find out i needed a driver that no video or instructions mentioned. TH3D support pointed me straight to it when i told them that after installing the boot loader that the computer wasn't picking up the fact that the printer had been plugged in. so i had temporarily bricked my printer. once i installed the driver all was well again.
won't be till almost 6 pm before the calibration part finishes up. hoping i have enough of the small batch of filament left to finish it, or i'll get to experience my first in process print filament change.
once my better feeder gets here and setup then i'll dial in my extrusion settings with the new dual gear feeder.
things are going smoothly for the most part.
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spent the day tweaking my ender. found my extruder carriage to be off left to right across the machine. got that all dialed in and its now perfectly level. then got my extruder feed rate dialed in. my z axis is about spot on now. x and y are a couple hundredths oversize. need to get that a touch closer. but man alot of tinkering to get to this point.
then my new airforce condor showed up. tried to mount a scope i had and shoot a few rounds to see what it was like, Man what a beast. found that i new adjustable scope mounts as i ran out of up elevation tring to do a quick sight in.
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Well it turned out my dual gear feeder wasn't dual gear. It was just the aluminium upgrade. maybe next time. So far things have been running pretty smoothly. My pla all the sudden, when I do a multi part print is stringing pretty heavily. Spent a few hours getting things all calibrated, then messed with changing the groove roller hearing on the aluminium feeder as it was putting out any annoying squeak on retracting, or at least it's coming from that area. Still does it with the factory grooved roller in place.
Finally got my spool of petg today. So gonna do a quick feed rate calibration and see how the petg filament works out. That'll be tomorrow's project.
Been busy making a few parts. Having some issues designing an "unspeakable" part. Everything looks great till I get it into Cura and slice it. Xray view shows it properly, but the slice paths are way wrong when I view the layers. My main hole through the center is shortened and larger in diameter, and turned into a figure 8 type opening. Kinda odd. All I can think is that I'm not making the cones properly in blender 2.79. Made an air stripper for the muzzle of my condor to help keep things aligned properly. That turned out well. Now I need to make the hole that slides over the barrel muzzle a touch bigger and change my pass through holes larger. I chose 8 holes 2mm in diameter. Gonna a try to double the diameter of them. But the basics of my condor frame extender turned out very well. Definitely a lot quieter than the one I bought.
I also need to figure out the cone issue as I would like to get the rocker1 ldc baffles reprinted after destroying them due to clipping issues I had with them.
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for the life of me. I have tried numerous settings and cant seem to get petg to stay put. first 10 min and all looks great. then the next the part starts to come up from the bed as if it is shrinking and pulling itself free.
I am trying this on the magnetic mat that comes factory. i've tried start with a 85*c bed setting the dropping it down at layer 3 to 75*c trying 90 with a 75*c drop next.
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Keep it the same temp the entire print. I keep it at the max bed temp the entire time for petg. Also do you have any birm being used?
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No brim. But I think I finally got it. it stayed out this time. I slowed down the initial layer about 5 mm in travel speed and bumped the hot end to 225°c and the bed up to 90°c. Then dropped it back to 220 on hot end and down to 70 on the bed. Print stayed put and turned out well. Was a bit difficult to get the print to pop off afterwards. But at least it printed well finally. And it adhered well this time. The part was a 11mm to picatinny rail, so I can watch my bipod on the condor, and test durability with a 75% infill. Got to get so m nut and bolts to attach it with tomorrow. Now that I seem to have things sticking I may reprint my we focus wheel.
Oh and I found my squeak which was a filament guide going into the feeder. And also had the Bowden tube loosen up at the feeder as well. It was slipping and poping during retraction and feed.
So I order the good Capricorn tube and replacement tube connectors as well as 2 more spools of petg and an all metal hotend.
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Well after my successful 11mm to picatinny adapter petg print. I finally got hardware to mount it. Got it on and barely a few turns tight. "Crack". Epic fail. Grrr. Looking at things, it apparent that when making a usable piece double check the print grain direction. It layer delaminated as it was printed with it positioned how it would be on the gun, top to bottom. So I rotated 90° to stand the print up right and 2 hours later a successful print and got it mounted. Wahoo. So 4 tries to get one good one. But can now repeat it if needed.
I also reprinted my vantage side wheel in petg. That turned out perfectly. So all in all 6 hours and 2 great prints today. Tomorrow should be new Capricorn tube and filament as well as an all metal hotend. Not to get my flashlight mount done up, and new baffles for my ldc.
I'll get some pics of today's petg parts posted up tomorrow.
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That is par for the course really, I have wasted more than just one entire spool over the years. I have had 48+ hour prints fail in the last few hours. For bulk prints that I do a lot of often of small parts I make it so that they do not go past 10 hours. You seem to be ahead of the curve so far and don't ever get in a rut of it has to be this way and only this way. I had many prints fail no matter the adjustment turned out the OEM ender bodwen tube failed. It took me about 25 prints over 2 weeks to figure that out as I never thought it would fail that way. That capricorn tube will nip that in the bud before it is ever an issue for you.
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Yeah my stock Bowden is giving me issues already. But it's not in the hotend it's back at the feeder gears. Slow steady feed rate gives no issues. But the retraction and back has it clicking and poping and shifting back and forth.
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Go direct dive with a all metal hot end and never look back. Lots of options to do it cheap on the ender platforms.
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here are my petg parts. first two are the vantage side wheel. the my 11mm to picatinny adapter, so i could mount my bipod on my Airforce condor.
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tried switching to an all metal hot end. The bigtreetech MK8 from amazon. Epic fail. tried for 8 hours and could not get bed adhesion at all with it. trying to get it setup to run the petg. All it did was continue to blob and make a huge mess of the nozzle. Switched back to the original and installed capricorn tube in it, and all is well after making a few adjustments to get dial back in.
Not sure what the issue is with the all metal hotend. granted its a cheap fake clone of the micro swiss. So instead i decided to order some all metal conversion throats from th3d that replace the factory throat. we'll see how those work out.
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Was the nozzle brass?
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nozzle was unknown. possibly a hardened one.
this is link to the one i got. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089YV5KNQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089YV5KNQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
it seemed to me that there was a slight z height difference. I had switched to a set of stiffer bed springs but even at full compression they wouldn't go low enough to allow for bed leveling. i even tried to raise my z endstop and to compensate. even ran the temp up to 260 on extruder. all i could manage was a hot mess. i did switch back to the factory springs to get bed re-leveled. it would extrude with no problems, but only occasionally stick to the bed in random spot. got me majorly frustrated. especially when i swapped factory back in and 2 hours later had it running the same filament with no issue.
Maybe this one needs a higher output heater to work correctly. made the mistake of seeing bigtreetech and figured it was good to go knowing the company is pretty decent. but they don't even make the hotend.
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I would hazard a guess it was the nozzle causing you grief. replace it with a brass once it should be better. I had that issue when I tried a hard steel one.
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I'll try that once a new order for nozzles is placed. My initial order fail to be delivered. So got to look for a new kit of them. Once I get them I'll try again and see if things improve. Really like the all metal idea, so hate to give up on it. It's definitely a challenge to get it going..
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You could reuse the one on your original hot end or one of the spares.
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Brass nozzles showed up today. Got one installed on the all metal hot end. Decided to update my cura to 4.7.1. What a disaster that was. Lost all my previous settings. Luckily I had them pretty well memorized. Cura failed to even start up. Tried 4.7 and that one also failed to start. So I ended up getting 4.6.2 running. Used to have 4.6. What A pain. No reason that I can seem to find on getting 4.7.1 running on my win7 laptop.
Been trying to print some baffles for my gauntlet, but they are stinging something terrible on the inside. Tried many tricks to get it to stop. All other parts are no issue. Did a few stringing test and no issues there. Kinda odd.
Tomorrow I may try to get the all metal hot end back on and see if I can get it working with the brass nozzle. Learning alot, and at times it can be a bear to figure out cause of issues. I had even gone so far as to increase my retraction length and speed but that's not helping. Then turned down my print speed and temps. Still no help. I think it must be something with my layers and the way it's slicing. It jumps around and squirts a bit here and there through the layers then does a circuit. Then jumps around again, causing it to drag plastic from the squirts. Could be as bad stl file. May remake the part and see if it clears up.
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Your in deep now! You’ve come a ways since I last visited this thread.
I never upgraded my firmware because I have a different board that I never got around to putting in. Factory board/drivers are holding up fine.
Where did you get the scope wheel and ldc files? If you need the ldc to fit tighter, you can reprint at a smaller %. I’m sure you know that though.
Looking good.
Dave
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david,
my biggest reason for doing the firmware was due to the fact that the factory did not enable thermal protection. the unit is a major fire hazard with it off.
so i went the easy route and used th3d firmware. no issues and i can feel easy about leaving home with it printing and knowing it wont burn the house down.
the side wheel file i think i got from thingiverse. the baffles i'm currently trying to get a clean print were from AGN.
Still working on a better baffle system for my Airforce condor. i know i can get that quieter yet. bu issue there is the cones. when i slice them in cura they deform and don't look right in the slice preview.
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Matt, ty for the nozzle tip.got the all metal hotend re-installed today. adjusted my retraction and worked on getting my be re-leveled. changed out the hardened for the brass .4 nozzle and the factory silicon sock even fit the all metal hot end( actually a better fit). thus far things seem to be working. got an actual part being printed and should be done soon. so i'll soon be able to see if it was worth the headaches to get this all metal working.
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Cool keep us posted.
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I have found that petg likes a little extra squish on first layer to make it stick best. Glass bed and purple glue stick.
Keep us updated.
Dave
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Well the print failed. I walked away cause it was Doing good. Come back 5 min later to a mess. Guessing it didnt adhere to the bed. Oh and I forgot to recalibrate my slicer flow rate. So got that all set and change my temps. Got a successful print so all is good now.
So I'm at 80°c on the bed.. 220°c on extruder and 25% cooling fan. The print that failed had 100% cooling fan. The baffle that I got still has stings and blobs on the inside that I have to clean out and some weirdness in the outer skin. I can't seem to figure out how to get cura to print a clean inside wall and put all the mess on the outer skin. Would make clean up way easier. Got to be a setting some place. I did change my retraction to 2mm distance and 40mm speed I think it was. Getting better with every attempt.
If I do the stringing tests. I get little to no strings, but then it goes nuts on a part. Go figure.
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Have you tried hotter extruder temp? I don't have a lot of PETG experience but was running it at 240. I have a basic ender 3 with the standard bed surface (not the magnetic). I have not had adhesion problems. I do use a skirt to get things going.
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stan,
I have ran hotter yes. I actually run petg at 225*c, for initial layer printing. then drop it to 220 for the rest.
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OK,
My understanding was that PETG is typically a 240+ C filament. I might try some cooler prints.
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Mfg label for temps on my spool of petg is 200-240°c. But now that I have replaced factory Bowden tube with Capricorn tube and now an all metal hotend. I'm playing with temps to get the best possible prints. Right now I'm having severe stringing issues on small parts. It almost seems like my Cura 4.6.2 isn't making the adjustments that I'm inputting and spitting out proper code. It runs the initial clean/purge line no issues. First 4 layers go down decent then it gets messy from there.
I had my speed down around 30-40mm/s. Then bumped up to 50mm but it doesn't seems to be picking up and still printing at the lower rate, till it comes to a top layer section then it picks up speed and cleans up, no stings until it gets a few layers in at the slow rate again.
I think I may wipe out this install of cura and do a clean reinstall, and see if that helps clear things up. Would really be nice if I could get 4.7 to work.
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I'm not sure what version it is in there is a feature when the filimant is retracted but before Z is lifted it scrubbs the nozzle across the part a few mm as a wipe before moving.
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Yeah, that retract swipe before z lift helps a bunch. I started with cura and then switched to slic3r (prusaslic3r actually). It just works better for me.
Dave
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i think i got it figured out now. i clean installed Cura 4.6.1. reset my settings profile. now i get much better prints. I also used shortest path to hide z seam. if i use random to hide z seam i get massive stringing. should be goo to go now. still have to do a little post print clean up on the inside of the part, but it is way better than it was.
I just changed my gauntlet from 4 baffle stack in the shroud to a 5 baffle stack. seems a bit quieter yet. plus mine have a tighter clearance on the pellet as well, so i'm sure that helps.
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Glad you got it figured out.
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well i about got my custom baffles done. made a set, but messed up apparently. i either clipped or they were not thick enough. blew the last 3 of the 5 apart. gun was super quiet and still accurate. made some changes and strengthened the weak points. gonna print a whole new set tomorrow and i should be good. new set is an interlocking design, so there should be no baffle shifting. doing a 5 chamber design.
had a slight issue with my nozzle leaking. got that fixed, new nozzle and all cleaned up under the sock. and i. i did notice that my expected dimensions were off again. so first i'll have to calibrate the printer again. not sure what could have caused the parts to be so far off size wise.
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the redesigned baffles work awesome. this condor is whisper quiet now. well besides needing to do the hammer slap mod. all you hear is hammer and impact on target. the frame extender is louder than my custom unit. each baffle self centers in the housing and interlocks with each other, and the custom barrel adapter as well. may even sell the frame extender now. I'm quite pleased with the outcome.
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Good job it really does take a while to get everything sorted but now you should not have much to mess with.