GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Vintage Air Gun Gate => Topic started by: JD on September 22, 2020, 06:35:06 PM
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I was just given a Sheridan Blue Streak of unknown vintage. The seals are gone, it leaks air badly enough I can't fire it. The only text on the barrel is "Sheridan Products" on one side and on the other "Blue Streak 5m/m CAL". Several years ago it fired just fine but now it won't.
I'm debating on spending the money and time to replace the seals. May be a good winter project, IDK. Not worried about the wood, I can easily refinish that. I'm just not sure of the difficulty of disassembly/reassembly and replacing the seals. I have no sentimental attachment to it but if a redo will be worth the money and effort in terms of the gun's value then I might do it.
I've attached photos so someone may be able to figure out it's manufactured year. There are no serial numbers.
1) Is the redo a giant headache? Are there step by step videos anywhere?
2) Would it be worth it in terms of finished value? It's worth very little now, nothing to someone who isn't going to work on it.
3) In one of the photos where the bolt is pulled back, you can see a pin projecting from the front of the bolt which prevents one from inserting a pellet. Any thoughts about that?
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Early 60’s. If you aren’t that into it, put it on ebay and let someone who is do the work.
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If it functioned a few years ago, then decided to quit after storage, I’d guess it’s just a seal job. $50 on your own including a special tool.
This from a newbie who wondered the same thing about fixing up a Blue Streak that won’t pump up and had some additional issues... I decided to take a shot at repair.
I’m confused about your third question. How did it function before but now has the pin in the way? That pin looks like modern versions of Benjamin Sheridan air rifle bolts.
Good luck and hope some of the above is helpful.
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WOW!
Only one reply???
I'm surprised you haven't got offers!!
Now 2 replies!
OIL HER UP first. She may not need a rebuild YET!
Pull back on the bolt handle REAL hard until it clicks. That will cock it and allow a pellet to be inserted into the breech.
Even with-out a pellet, you should be able to pump it up.
If not, swing the pump arm to the open position and put a few drops of 3 in 1 oil, sewing machine oil, 30 wt non-detergent motor oil, hydraulic fluid or, automatic transmission oil into the tube slot and start pumping.
Look REAL close for some tiny stamped numbers on the receiver opposite to where the bolt handle is, forward of the plate with the 2 screws in it.
That will be the code used to identify the month and year that your rifle was built. Here is some info for you for Blue Streak - http://ujays.net/sheridan-manual.pdf (http://ujays.net/sheridan-manual.pdf)
Here's the forum link that should answer all of your questions - https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?board=124.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?board=124.0)
Cheers,
Smoketown
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Here's more - https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=177200.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=177200.0)
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3) In one of the photos where the bolt is pulled back, you can see a pin projecting from the front of the bolt which prevents one from inserting a pellet. Any thoughts about that?
The "sear" part of the trigger is probably not catching the hammer (Sheridan might have called it the "striker," I can't remember). May or may not be an easy fix without replacing parts, depending on the condition of the parts involved.
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I see part of the rear sight is missing. Still, worth $150 or so, cleaned up and sealed.
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The pin that's preventing you from loading a pellet indicates that you haven't pulled the bolt back far enough to cock the rifle. It's kinda hard to pull, but you get used to it. Try that and some lube and you may be surprised!
Luck,
J~
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The pin that's preventing you from loading a pellet indicates that you haven't pulled the bolt back far enough to cock the rifle. It's kinda hard to pull, but you get used to it. Try that and some lube and you may be surprised!
Luck,
J~
YES DING DING
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The bolt clicks or runs into the back wall or something metal when it's pulled all the way back. It's back as far as it goes, pulling harder does nothing. When we shot it a couple years ago, nothing was wrong. Could pump it up however far we wanted and insert pellets.
Something happened in storage to make that pin stick out like that but it's puzzling because it was just sitting upright on it's butt stock, leaning against the wall for all that time.
When you pump it up, you can hear air leaking from clear up at the front. I'll try that oiling suggestion and see if that helps but unless I get that pin back somehow I can't do anything with it. Safety on or off doesn't make any difference in pulling the bolt back.
I'll check out the links as soon as I can.
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Sorry, the air leaks from the back. Somewhere around where you insert the pellet. I just now went out and checked. Big leak. Every bit of air pumped in leaks out.
Also that sear suggestion might have something. The trigger seems too far back with almost no play in it. Do those links deal with fixing a sear problem? I can't go study them right now, my wife is on me about finding her another car and I've been in my shop "too long" today.
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Well I was right both times. It leaks from the back when the bolt is back and the front of the barrel when the bolt is pushed in. Duh.
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Gotta get it going, you'll be happy you did and eventually kick yourself if you just pass it along.
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So, can you cock it, or not? Different issue from the non-pumping part, but may help narrow down the 'pin' problem.
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Take off the two screws that cover the cocking bolt and see if the screw that catches the hammer has backed out a bit. If it is not tight you can't pull the bolt back to cock the gun.
Pat
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Take off the two screws that cover the cocking bolt and see if the screw that catches the hammer has backed out a bit. If it is not tight you can't pull the bolt back to cock the gun.
Pat
^ That. I have a 1965 Blue Streak and sometimes it won't accept air unless it's cocked first. If the bolt isn't going all the way back, that would cause the problem the OP listed.
Ride on,
J~
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To me the "pin" you see in your bolt is proper...
There is a definite two "positions" on cocking the bolt.
Looks like you are only opening the bolt, and not drawing it back to compress the hammer spring to engage the second position.
"PM Sent"
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The pin that's preventing you from loading a pellet indicates that you haven't pulled the bolt back far enough to cock the rifle. It's kinda hard to pull, but you get used to it. Try that and some lube and you may be surprised!
Ya know, you are right! Today I pulled real hard and sure enough it cocked. When it ran into metal the first few times I cocked it I thought it was all the way back, but no. Pull real hard past that and it cocks.
But it still leaks even when cocked. So a seal job is in order. Might be a winter project. However, Tom Gaylord wrote a 2 part piece on the Blue Streak and several items in there made me question whether or not I still want to bother with it. https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2019/07/sheridan-blue-streak-part-1-2/ (https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2019/07/sheridan-blue-streak-part-1-2/)
1) You have to pump up to 8 times for each shot. Whether or not that's interesting to you is something each person has to decide.
2) Not as accurate as an RWS 34 and I have one of those that was professionally tuned by a tuner on GTA.
So....a marginally accurate rifle that you have to pump a bunch of times for each pellet........hmmm...I'll think about it.
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Pull back on the bolt handle REAL hard until it clicks. That will cock it and allow a pellet to be inserted into the breech.
Even with-out a pellet, you should be able to pump it up.
If not, swing the pump arm to the open position and put a few drops of 3 in 1 oil, sewing machine oil, 30 wt non-detergent motor oil, hydraulic fluid or, automatic transmission oil into the tube slot and start pumping.
Look REAL close for some tiny stamped numbers on the receiver opposite to where the bolt handle is, forward of the plate with the 2 screws in it.
That will be the code used to identify the month and year that your rifle was built. Here is some info for you for Blue Streak - http://ujays.net/sheridan-manual.pdf (http://ujays.net/sheridan-manual.pdf)
Here's the forum link that should answer all of your questions - https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?board=124.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?board=124.0)
Cheers,
Smoketown
You were also right about pulling hard. Thanks. I thought I WAS pulling hard but obviously not hard enough. I found those numbers but they're not stamped too well and are very hard to decipher, even with various magnifying devices. I'll keep trying though, I'd like to be able to trace it. I'll also try your oil trick to see if that helps. It would be awesome if it fixed it.
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I got it! The date stamp is 5091G. I'll email Crossman and see if they can tell me. I've done a number of searches and can only find serial number charts for the Blue Streaks. This is a date stamp, earlier than serial numbers. I can't find a list of date stamps anywhere.
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I think you'll find the stamp is actually "5691G" - to be read from right to left (i.e., backward) this is G for for 7th month of 1965. This format was used from '64 to '72.
Don R.
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I figured out how to get my peep sight as low as it needs and shot mine today. It has been oiled up really well, with the sauce, without any problems, beforehand. Man that Williams peep is great. I need all I got to get it to eight pumps thou. Good luck with yours.
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Ya know, you are right! Today I pulled real hard and sure enough it cocked. When it ran into metal the first few times I cocked it I thought it was all the way back, but no. Pull real hard past that and it cocks.
But it still leaks even when cocked. So a seal job is in order. Might be a winter project. However, Tom Gaylord wrote a 2 part piece on the Blue Streak and several items in there made me question whether or not I still want to bother with it. https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2019/07/sheridan-blue-streak-part-1-2/ (https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2019/07/sheridan-blue-streak-part-1-2/)
1) You have to pump up to 8 times for each shot. Whether or not that's interesting to you is something each person has to decide.
2) Not as accurate as an RWS 34 and I have one of those that was professionally tuned by a tuner on GTA.
So....a marginally accurate rifle that you have to pump a bunch of times for each pellet........hmmm...I'll think about it.
Gaylord like any politician, priest, or rabbi has been known to be 'talking out of his arse' ... He is NOT the end all and be all guru of airguns.
1.) You do NOT have to pump it 8 times to shoot it. Quite often 2 pumps will do, making it more versatile than many airguns currently on the market.
2.) My Sheridan does NOT shoot as well as my TX200 and the TX200 does NOT shoot as well as my S510 ... Please do not compare apples to oranges.
You might also try this - https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=178363.msg156023229#msg156023229 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=178363.msg156023229#msg156023229)
Cheers,
Smoketown
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I have a stable full of Sheridans .
3 pumps is fine for killing cardboard. 5 pumps for most small game. Maximum 8 pumps for larger game or longer distance shooting. Cock it, then put 1-2 drops of oil on the tip of the bolts & stand it in a corner, overnight, with a rag/newspaper under it. See if it is easier to cock the next day.
Raise the pump arm & put several drops of non detergent motor oil, transmission fluid, around the pump cup, inside. Let it soak overnight. Cock & pump it twice the next day & see if there is any resistance.
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JD
Here is some info on Sheridan's that might help, gives approximate time line on the changes to Dan's etc.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sheridan_Products
Hth's
Don
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I tried the oiling suggestions and it still leaks. There's resistance but enough leakage that it probably needs a rebuild. Maybe I'll try the alcohol thing, we'll see.
I get really antsy and lethargic in the winter with no projects lined up so rebuilding it might be the key. When the weather turns nasty and I don't want to go out the front door, that'll be the time.
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If it has a little pumping pressure, cock it , oil it gain & quickly dry fire it . Let it sit overnight & try it tomorrow. If that doesn’t help, overhaul.
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Maybe I'm oiling in the wrong spot. I originally oiled at A. But there's a little hole at B which looks like a possibility. Or is it somewhere else
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Yes, 1905 would be an extremely early rifle.
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"" Maybe I'm oiling in the wrong spot. I originally oiled at A. But there's a little hole at B which looks like a possibility. Or is it somewhere else ""
Since you don't have anything to lose,, put some in both places.
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I think you'll find the stamp is actually "5691G" - to be read from right to left (i.e., backward) this is G for for 7th month of 1965. This format was used from '64 to '72.
Don R.
I'm sure you're right. I looked again, extremely hard to see and poorly stamped. The circle part of the 6 is there but not the stem. However, that circle part is smaller than a 0 so what you say must be correct. So July of 1965.
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This is odd. I just now got an email from Crossman. I'd given them the number I posted above with the "0" not the "6" and Crossman said that according to their records my rifle was made in 1973. Now there's a mystery.
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Here is some key changes to help narrow yours down.
Because your receiver has the grooves, I would say Pre 68
1964 - Two changes
• Inspection dates now stamped (backwards and alphabetically) on the left side of the receiver. (Jan 1964 - Apr 1972)
• Front sight changed to a large forward serrated ramp style 1964 - 1977)
1965 - No changes
1966 - No changes
1967 - One change
• Trigger guard now attached by two rivets
1968 - Two change
• Grooves removed from the Receiver (now smooth flattop receiver). (Mar 1968 - Feb 1978)
• Curved bolt handle now welded to bolt.
1969 - No changes
1970 - No changes
1971 - Two changes
• Left-handed version introduced (Jul 1971) ( Approx 400 made)
• Rear sight now clip-on attachment. (April 1971)
1972 - Two changes
• Stamped Serial numbers introduced ( 000001 - 025650). (Apr 1972)
• Hole in bolt handle made shallow (1972–1974)
1973 - No changes. Serial numbers ( 025651 - 060550)
1974 - No changes. Serial numbers ( 060551 - 100780)
1975 - One change. Serial numbers ( 100780 - 141460)
• Hole in bolt handle eliminated.
1976 - No changes. Serial numbers ( 141461 - 175840)
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Whoever is answering such questions at Crosman should be reassigned. "5691G" = July '65, no further details needed.
The facts as noted by Hoosier Daddy are well established, and even Crosman's web page on Sheridan dating states the 6-digit serial #'s started in '72: https://www.crosman.com/discover/crosman/benjamin-product-dates (https://www.crosman.com/discover/crosman/benjamin-product-dates)
It's usually better to not answer vs supply wrong info.
Don R.
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Agreed Don... I was just trying to clear the "air"
OP admitted he gave Mother Crosman a "0" for a "G".
Bad data in = Bad data out.
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This photo was real difficult to get but it clears things up. The "6" was stamped so indistinctly that it looked like a "0", I couldn't see the upper tail on the 6 so it just looked like a 0. So July 1965 it is.
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I sure wish we could edit our posts!! Anyway, click on the image and you'll see it pretty clearly.
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Since you don't have anything to lose,, put some in both places.
I did it and let it sit overnight. Still leaking so re-sealing it is.
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I sure wish we could edit our posts!! Anyway, click on the image and you'll see it pretty clearly.
You can edit your posts, you just have to do it soon after posting.
I have several 1965-1966 rifles & the numbers are like that.
I just sold a 1968 & the number 6 looked much different than that.
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YEP. She is D.O.A.
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I sure wish we could edit our posts!! Anyway, click on the image and you'll see it pretty clearly.
From 10:05:22 AM to 10:06:37 AM you should have been able to. The "Modify" button is on the top right.