GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Machine Shop Talk & AG Parts Machining => Topic started by: OTmachine on September 13, 2020, 10:06:33 PM
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Dan H has come up with a modification to the barrel band divot. I believe a better fix would be to cut the through the common wall at the point of tangency between the shroud barrel band bore and the upper air tube barrel band diameter with a hack saw. The gap between the shroud and upper air tube is approximately .038 inch. With the band removed from the gun, enlarge the 1.5 mm set screw holes to 3/16 diameter. Then take a 10-32 x 1 inch SHCS, thinned down evenly, (a little less than .080 inch per side), to leave a 1/32 thick flat section, 1/4 inch wide mid-point in the screw. Install the screw through the 3/16 holes with a nut on the back side. Tighten the screw down so that it clamps on both of the tubes, better stabilizing the barrel and shroud assembly with out dinging the tubes. What do you guys think. I have to go out and shoot with my son in a week and and trying to get my Avenger .25 to where I can compete.
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Edited: On visual inspection, I thought the barrel band had been upgraded, but with a strong light, I may have see wrong.
I'm taking the shroud off to check.
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Dan H has come up with a modification to the barrel band divot. I believe a better fix would be to cut the through the common wall at the point of tangency between the shroud barrel band bore and the upper air tube barrel band diameter with a hack saw. The gap between the shroud and upper air tube is approximately .038 inch. With the band removed from the gun, enlarge the 1.5 mm set screw holes to 3/16 diameter. Then take a 10-32 x 1 inch SHCS, thinned down evenly, (a little less than .080 inch per side), to leave a 1/32 thick flat section, 1/4 inch wide mid-point in the screw. Install the screw through the 3/16 holes with a nut on the back side. Tighten the screw down so that it clamps on both of the tubes, better stabilizing the barrel and shroud assembly with out dinging the tubes. What do you guys think. I have to go out and shoot with my son in a week and and trying to get my Avenger .25 to where I can compete.
Hey Joe, if you build it, they will buy... :D
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I can only confirm that my eyes aren't what they used to be. I was wrong.
I could have sworn I saw a thin threaded 'rod' in between the barrels tightening the band, but under closer inspection, nope. Nothing, zilch, nichts, nada, rien, nic, niets...
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The stock fore arm section has to be taken off first. After taking out the screws, press along the seam to unlatch the the fingers holding the two halves together. The latches are in the form of a plastic hook that catches in a pocket on the adjacent side.
The band mod is working Great. I have a revision. I will post pictures, probably later this week, if work does not interfere. In the interim, Dan H’s shim fix will work temporarily.
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The stock fore arm section has to be taken off first. After taking out the screws, press along the seam to unlatch the the fingers holding the two halves together. The latches are in the form of a plastic hook that catches in a pocket on the adjacent side.
The band mod is working Great. I have a revision. I will post pictures, probably later this week, if work does not interfere. In the interim, Dan H’s shim fix will work temporarily.
...okay... ;D ;D ;D
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This is a rough version of the screw and nut needed. The screw is / was a 10-32x2” SHCS. The nut was made from a 10-32 coupling nut cut into thirds to make 3 nuts. And the barrel band has to be completely removed, drilled, cut, and spot-faced both sides to install. A future mod would be to widen the lower air tube part of the band to better capture the lower air tube.
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This is a rough version of the screw and nut needed. The screw is / was a 10-32x2” SHCS. The nut was made from a 10-32 coupling nut cut into thirds to make 3 nuts. And the barrel band has to be completely removed, drilled, cut, and spot-faced both sides to install. A future mod would be to widen the lower air tube part of the band to better capture the lower air tube.
Ingenious.
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Thanks. I am trying.
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Thanks. I am trying.
It's just that your idea reaches between and through the barrel shroud and airtube being extremely thin, thus without damaging it, and then being threaded on both ends you can draw in the surrounding barrel band to tighten, rather than dig into the dang tubes with screw threads. That's brilliant now they have to be made for sale... ;) I mean like, how many hundreds of Avenger owners are out there who would gladly get and use this?
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This is a rough version of the screw and nut needed. The screw is / was a 10-32x2” SHCS. The nut was made from a 10-32 coupling nut cut into thirds to make 3 nuts. And the barrel band has to be completely removed, drilled, cut, and spot-faced both sides to install. A future mod would be to widen the lower air tube part of the band to better capture the lower air tube.
I believe that new wood stocked models have newly modified barrel bands that do not impinge on the air cylinder walls. I'm thinking that a simple exchange for the newer design, even if it may require minor alterations for mounting, may be the way to go.
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If somebody is making these I'd like to buy a couple. Cost? I have 3 barrel bands on now and she still moves if bumped...