GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Evanix Airguns => Topic started by: VaporTrail on September 11, 2020, 08:12:49 AM
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Wondering how you go about breaking down a Hunting Master RS. I was lucky enough to come across one of these beauties, but its having trouble holding air above 2500PSI. Instead of sending it off to Will (for now), I want to try my hand at replacing the orings and such. It didn't come with a manual, and there's not much on the interwebs as to how go about dismantling it.
Can anyone shine some light? Thanks all very much! 8)
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Wondering how you go about breaking down a Hunting Master RS. I was lucky enough to come across one of these beauties, but its having trouble holding air above 2500PSI. Instead of sending it off to Will (for now), I want to try my hand at replacing the orings and such. It didn't come with a manual, and there's not much on the interwebs as to how go about dismantling it.
Can anyone shine some light? Thanks all very much! 8)
Hello Paul
Good the hear that the RS is now in your hands
Sorry to hear about the leaks, but I suppose they are to be expected in a 20+/- year old rifle
Do you know where it is leaking from?
After repairing the fill assembly on mine, the next leak discovered is most likely via the valve.
I've been staring at the works also trying to figure out the best way to tear it down.
As far as a manual is concerned.
I got a hard copy via AZ in SC via the importer under the conditions that I would not reproduce it.
Try contacting Davis Scweshinger at
Air Rifle Specialists
130 Holden Rd
Pine City, NY 14871
607 734-734
607 732-3261
ars@stny.rr.com (untried by me)
The manual covers the AR6, RS, & AR6 pistol
There is a parts schematic (AR6) but no pats list
Hope this helps
Ed
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Wondering how you go about breaking down a Hunting Master RS. I was lucky enough to come across one of these beauties, but its having trouble holding air above 2500PSI. Instead of sending it off to Will (for now), I want to try my hand at replacing the orings and such. It didn't come with a manual, and there's not much on the interwebs as to how go about dismantling it.
Can anyone shine some light? Thanks all very much! 8)
Hello Paul
Good the hear that the RS is now in your hands
Sorry to hear about the leaks, but I suppose they are to be expected in a 20+/- year old rifle
Do you know where it is leaking from?
After repairing the fill assembly on mine, the next leak discovered is most likely via the valve.
I've been staring at the works also trying to figure out the best way to tear it down.
As far as a manual is concerned.
I got a hard copy via AZ in SC via the importer under the conditions that I would not reproduce it.
Try contacting Davis Scweshinger at
Air Rifle Specialists
130 Holden Rd
Pine City, NY 14871
607 734-734
607 732-3261
ars@stny.rr.com (untried by me)
The manual covers the AR6, RS, & AR6 pistol
There is a parts schematic (AR6) but no pats list
Hope this helps
Ed
Thanks Ed! I asked Davis for a manual, so I'm just waiting for him to get back to me.
I'm going to assume that the leak is possibly in the same area as yours. Unfortunately, it also appears to be the one area I can't seem to access.
A small note: when I first tried firing the rifle (thank you for the Sumatra probe tip, it works wonderfully!), there was no air being released. Upon further inspection, it appears that the little rubber/plastic hammerstop was impeding the hammer strike. I removed it, and I was able to get the rifle to fire. The hammer pin is getting pretty beat up from the metal-to-metal contact, so I think I'm going to shave that plastic piece down about 3-4mm and then reinsert it to save the hammer pin.
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Wondering how you go about breaking down a Hunting Master RS. I was lucky enough to come across one of these beauties, but its having trouble holding air above 2500PSI. Instead of sending it off to Will (for now), I want to try my hand at replacing the orings and such. It didn't come with a manual, and there's not much on the interwebs as to how go about dismantling it.
Can anyone shine some light? Thanks all very much! 8)
Hello Paul
Good the hear that the RS is now in your hands
Sorry to hear about the leaks, but I suppose they are to be expected in a 20+/- year old rifle
Do you know where it is leaking from?
After repairing the fill assembly on mine, the next leak discovered is most likely via the valve.
I've been staring at the works also trying to figure out the best way to tear it down.
As far as a manual is concerned.
I got a hard copy via AZ in SC via the importer under the conditions that I would not reproduce it.
Try contacting Davis Scweshinger at
Air Rifle Specialists
130 Holden Rd
Pine City, NY 14871
607 734-734
607 732-3261
ars@stny.rr.com (untried by me)
The manual covers the AR6, RS, & AR6 pistol
There is a parts schematic (AR6) but no pats list
Hope this helps
Ed
Thanks Ed! I asked Davis for a manual, so I'm just waiting for him to get back to me.
I'm going to assume that the leak is possibly in the same area as yours. Unfortunately, it also appears to be the one area I can't seem to access.
A small note: when I first tried firing the rifle (thank you for the Sumatra probe tip, it works wonderfully!), there was no air being released. Upon further inspection, it appears that the little rubber/plastic hammerstop was impeding the hammer strike. I removed it, and I was able to get the rifle to fire. The hammer pin is getting pretty beat up from the metal-to-metal contact, so I think I'm going to shave that plastic piece down about 3-4mm and then reinsert it to save the hammer pin.
Paul
Hold off on shaving down the hammer stop.
If it is the part that I suspect it may be, it is more than a hammer stop.
It is a secondary safety.
I learned this from the manual
Until which point I had been trying to fire the rifle with that safety engaged
(Which of course enters me into the Embarrassing Moments Home Alone Club).
When the piece is sticking out from the hammer it acts as a safety by not allowing the hammer to strike the valve stem
It can be flipped up, which then allows the plastic face of the part to strike the valve stem.
Hope this helps
Ed
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This is why a manual can be pretty important sometimes! ;D
Duly noted, brother Ed. I fiddled with the pin on the hammer and now it can go in the up position. Many thanks!
I'll omit my Home Alone moments...I've got waaay to many of those. :-X ;D ;D
8)
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Well, I'm glad to report that I've finally succeeded in breaking down everything except for the trigger assembly. I replaced the valve pin assembly as well as all the orings I could see.
Ed, my man...if you're still having trouble disassembling yours, give me a holler and I'll walk you through it. It's not terribly complicated, but due to the age of our rifles, it requires a bit more elbow grease.
I aired it up to 3K earlier today (from zero) and it dropped pressure to about 2500PSI. That was cause for a little bit of eyebrow-raising, but a quick check this evening showed that it didn't lose pressure after that.
I attribute that to the cylinder being a tad warm after I filled it; I'm guessing the air cooling and settling (it's in an air-conditioned room) is the cause for the drop in pressure. I filled it back up to 3K (from 2500), so I'll check in the morning and see if there's been any air loss.
Hopefully I've cured that half of the equation. Next up is curing the accuracy. This rifle can't even group at 10yds...and that was trying out at least 5 different pellets/slugs. I suspect there's some clipping with the LDC and possibly a dirty barrel. I cleaned the barrel, so I'll be working on the LDC next and then possibly a chrono test as well. Peak was 967 with the Piledrivers and 979 with 28gr HP slugs...so if the weather holds tomorrow, I'll try to do a chrono test.
I'll probably start another thread on it so as to keep the information properly sorted.
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Checked pressure this morning, and it dropped about 100PSI. Maybe 150. Not too bad I guess, but I'd like for it to not lose air at all. I'll check again later today and see where the pressure is at.
I also used a different size oring from the original...it's just a little thinner. If pressure drops by the end of the day, then I'll tear it down again and replace the orings with thicker ones.
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Well, it's been about 4 hours, and it looks like the pressure dropped another 100PSI. Looks to be sitting around 2800-2750PSI. Bit of a bummer that one, but the good thing is that now I'm a whole more familiar with breaking down the rifle, so I don't expect it to be as difficult this time around.
I'll probably use this chance season the barrel a little. I'll drain the air down by shooting it; probably not going to do accuracy tests, as I suspect it won't be worthwhile just yet.
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I'll email you, Paul
Ed
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8) 8)
Hopefully we can get your rifle squared away, Ed.
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Thought I'd drop a little update. I've since replaced all the orings with the ones that the seller included in the box.
Aired it up again...and no joy. Still leaks. :( Rubber glove and soapy water test didn't yield anything substantial...so I'm thinking I'll dunk it in water and see if there's any bubbles.
I also came across a tip that it might be a leaking gauge. I have an endcap that should rectify the problem (if that is the culprit), but the downside is that the rifle will no longer have a gauge.
Wish there was some way to fit another gauge, but that's a tad above my skill level. Oh well.
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The gauges on these guns are very hard if not impossible to find. It may be possible to get an adapter made through a hydraulic shop. I’d be willing to bet it’s the valve . The sealing surface on them is quite soft and I would imagine they get dried out after a length of time. My rifle hasn’t had any leaks but I’m sure at one point I’ll have to either source another poppet and/or make a new one. Good luck and if you can post some pics. I would certainly appreciate some reference pics for when the tie comes.
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Hmm...interesting! Great tips on the hydro shop and the valve. The seller sent me some extra valves, so I replaced the original one in the rifle. Of course, those valves are probably as old as the gun, so maybe it's got me going in circles. I wonder if a PEEK valve would be worthwhile?
FWIW, I did seal the valve end with the finger from a rubber glove. No change in how it looked. It seemed like the rubber glove on the gauge side was a little more poofy after a couple of days, but I can't remember if I squeezed out all the air. It's a bit more challenging to seal that side too, so I dunno if some air was leaking past the duct tape.
Next tear down I'll snap up some pics for you. 8)
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Hmm...interesting! Great tips on the hydro shop and the valve. The seller sent me some extra valves, so I replaced the original one in the rifle. Of course, those valves are probably as old as the gun, so maybe it's got me going in circles. I wonder if a PEEK valve would be worthwhile?
FWIW, I did seal the valve end with the finger from a rubber glove. No change in how it looked. It seemed like the rubber glove on the gauge side was a little more poofy after a couple of days, but I can't remember if I squeezed out all the air. It's a bit more challenging to seal that side too, so I dunno if some air was leaking past the duct tape.
Next tear down I'll snap up some pics for you. 8)
PEEK is harder to make seal than Delrin or PET-P. Since these guns are only rated for 200 bar and valves are relatively small Delrin should work just fine.
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noted, rkr...thanks for the tip! I can't say that making one is at my skill level, but maybe I can try? I'd be going off of eyeball measurements. :o
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Upon closer inspection, I think I may have found out why the grouping is so terrible on this rifle. Two of the lands in the rifling seem to stop about an 8th of an inch before the crown. :(
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noted, rkr...thanks for the tip! I can't say that making one is at my skill level, but maybe I can try? I'd be going off of eyeball measurements. :o
There's nothing wrong with the old Mk1 eyeball. Put the stem on a drill and shape the poppet so it looks good. The only critical part is the actual sealing surface so pay attention there.
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Hmm...that's encouraging. Thanks, rkr! I have a couple of extra poppets, so maybe I'll try and redo the surface on them.
Side note: is it difficult to change out the hammer spring? The HM2 hammer spring is noticeably softer than the hammer spring from the RS. I'm wondering if I can source a stiffer hammer spring for the HM2; that would probably increase my FPE.
I've tried switching out trigger assemblies (since they seem very similar), but the RS assembly doesn't advance the mag.
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Hmm...that's encouraging. Thanks, rkr! I have a couple of extra poppets, so maybe I'll try and redo the surface on them.
Side note: is it difficult to change out the hammer spring? The HM2 hammer spring is noticeably softer than the hammer spring from the RS. I'm wondering if I can source a stiffer hammer spring for the HM2; that would probably increase my FPE.
I've tried switching out trigger assemblies (since they seem very similar), but the RS assembly doesn't advance the mag.
They are PITA to change. Hobbyman tuned his HM by increasing the hammer weight. Thread somewhere in this forum.
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Well that's unfortunate. The HM2 was also tuned via a weighted hammer, so I was thinking rhe weighted hammer plus a stronger hammer spring and I'd get to where I'd like it to be.
Lol...PITA seems to be a recurring theme nowadays.
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Well that's unfortunate. The HM2 was also tuned via a weighted hammer, so I was thinking rhe weighted hammer plus a stronger hammer spring and I'd get to where I'd like it to be.
Lol...PITA seems to be a recurring theme nowadays.
The trigger is heavy to start with, the more spring you add the heavier it becomes. Try heavy hammer first and see if you could actually lighten up the hammer spring. I have mine set up with negative preload.
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I used weights on either side of the hammer . They were actually cut sections from a brass drift that were already knurled then drill and tap the existing hole on the hammer.
Can you take and post a pic of the trigger group, by the sounds of it it’s not the same as the AR6 I’ve got.
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Well that's unfortunate. The HM2 was also tuned via a weighted hammer, so I was thinking rhe weighted hammer plus a stronger hammer spring and I'd get to where I'd like it to be.
Lol...PITA seems to be a recurring theme nowadays.
The trigger is heavy to start with, the more spring you add the heavier it becomes. Try heavy hammer first and see if you could actually lighten up the hammer spring. I have mine set up with negative preload.
Aah...I see. I don't mind the trigger on the RS, so maybe I'll stick to that neighborhood in terms of stiffness. Good thing I just picked up a tap and die set...looks like I'll be putting it to use fairly soon! Thanks again, rkr!
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I used weights on either side of the hammer . They were actually cut sections from a brass drift that were already knurled then drill and tap the existing hole on the hammer.
Can you take and post a pic of the trigger group, by the sounds of it it’s not the same as the AR6 I’ve got.
I tried to upload, but pics were too big. Tried to resize, and they're still too big. :(
PM me an email, and I can get them sent out to you that way.
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Does it look like this ?
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Yep...pretty much. There's subtle differences between the HM2 trigger group and the RS.
For example, the blade that advances the mag is straighter on the HM2. The RS blade has a slight angle. Swapping out blades didn't help, though. My last resort is to swap hammer springs between the two. I have a feeling that's going to make the the HM2 a real beast.
Or...I can add a weight to the hammer of the RS. That's going to make it pretty nasty too.
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I did at one point stuff a smaller spring inside the it, the results were it that good. The added hammer weights really helped. Mind you since then added a Cobra chamber to the valve which helped with efficiency but did rob some of the power. Awesome hunting guns , mine is real accurate ( under an inch) with cast ammo at 100meters. Definitely not a planking gun though it really goes through a lot of air.
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I did at one point stuff a smaller spring inside the it, the results were it that good. The added hammer weights really helped. Mind you since then added a Cobra chamber to the valve which helped with efficiency but did rob some of the power. Awesome hunting guns , mine is real accurate ( under an inch) with cast ammo at 100meters. Definitely not a planking gun though it really goes through a lot of air.
May I ask please?
What is a Cobra Chamber; and where can I learn more about them?
Thanks
Ed
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Here’s some good reading.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=139401.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=139401.0)
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=143416.20 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=143416.20)
The second is close to when the real mods came into play.
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I did at one point stuff a smaller spring inside the it, the results were it that good. The added hammer weights really helped. Mind you since then added a Cobra chamber to the valve which helped with efficiency but did rob some of the power. Awesome hunting guns , mine is real accurate ( under an inch) with cast ammo at 100meters. Definitely not a planking gun though it really goes through a lot of air.
That was another option I was thinking about. That, or shimming the hammer spring. As for accuracy, mine's still trying to figure itself out. Probably going to shake her down again this weekend.
Here’s some good reading.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=139401.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=139401.0)
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=143416.20 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=143416.20)
The second is close to when the real mods came into play.
Great stuff...thanks! I may need to purchase another rifle and possibly use my current one for parts. Is there really no other way to remove the HS aside from drilling out the rivets? I've never drilled out ports before...so this may be my first attempt. I'm going to assume that I'm going to mess something up. :(
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No need to drill out rivets. It’s possible to get the spring out but you have to take the trigger parts out. It will come out if you use a pair of needle nose pliers and pull it out from the top of the housing. The trick is to remove the pivot on the top of the spring first , and try not to bend the spring on the way out. Drilling the ports is a fairly easy affair, one size at a time and not take too much material off at one time. Another easy one is the port through the back of the action, mine was pretty small from what I remember, and now is at full port size .22” I went to full size porting from the valve through to the magazine, and made the valve inlet as big as I could and added a few holes in the sides of the valve body , not sure if the tube model can take that.
If you’re having a hard time with pics , you can do one of two things . Send the pictures to your email address at a much lower size then post , or you can save them on your PC as a document rather than a pic. Then post them .
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Here’s some good reading.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=139401.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=139401.0)
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=143416.20 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=143416.20)
The second is close to when the real mods came into play.
Thanks, Denis
I may be in over my head with this topic, but will read every word.
Understanding will follow slowly
Ed
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No need to drill out rivets. It’s possible to get the spring out but you have to take the trigger parts out. It will come out if you use a pair of needle nose pliers and pull it out from the top of the housing. The trick is to remove the pivot on the top of the spring first , and try not to bend the spring on the way out. Drilling the ports is a fairly easy affair, one size at a time and not take too much material off at one time. Another easy one is the port through the back of the action, mine was pretty small from what I remember, and now is at full port size .22” I went to full size porting from the valve through to the magazine, and made the valve inlet as big as I could and added a few holes in the sides of the valve body , not sure if the tube model can take that.
If you’re having a hard time with pics , you can do one of two things . Send the pictures to your email address at a much lower size then post , or you can save them on your PC as a document rather than a pic. Then post them .
That's reassuring. I think I'll start saving up for that second rifle...looks like I may end up getting in over my head rather quickly. It'll be a shame to buy one just to cannibalize it, but it's not like there's a steady source of spare parts for it. I still need to tinker with the HM2; maybe some it's parts can be transferred over to the RS.
I'll try and see what I can do with the pics; but yes, the trigger group looks very identical to the K550.