GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => PCP/CO2/HPA Air Gun Gates "The Darkside" => Topic started by: Fate on August 08, 2020, 10:06:02 PM
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I got my Synrod on 14 July. It wasn't long thereafter I got my cheapo, but fantastic, $30 Chinese Chrony. I've been tuning ever since. At first I just twiddled adjustments and shot pellets... many hundreds of pellets. But after two weeks all I knew was how things worked.
About a week ago I realized I didn't have a goal to focus my tuning on. I decided to target 30 fpe, found a chart a member posted, and used it as my goal. About the same time I printed out the A Team tuning guide. Between the two I've spent this week refining my tuning work, focused on the specific goal of 30 fpe... and efficiency. Efficiency because 30 fpe is easy. Getting the most shots at that energy? Not quite as easy, but doable as I found out.
From the beginning I've been defining my tunes by whole numbers on the adjustments... HS 1,2,3..., HT 1.2.3...., VMS the same... except the prevailing advice is to max it out for power, which I'd done. The A Team's guide, however, made me refine that crude approach, and what to do when and how much to try. Quarter turns came next on some, one eighth on another. Yesterday I'd come to appreciate what that accomplished and wrote that tune and its results down. Since it had evolved during shooting a close tune I just wrote down what I'd ended up with as a start for today's tuning.
So this evening after the day's duties were done I went down and set up to see how that tune did from the beginning, because as I said it had evolved half way through yesterday's tuning and I didn't know how it would work with a full fill.
Starting at 3000 psi I shot, recorded, shot, recorded... and after thirty I stopped and calculated what had gone on. Shot # 4 was 29.9 fpe... good enough for me. Shot # 30 was 31.1 fpe... even better. Then to see how efficient it was I looked at the gauge, ONLY at 2500 psi!! Divided that by 30 and was amazed. Most of the time I've got at the lowest 20 psi per shot and mostly 22 psi per shot.... but 16.6??! There was a LOT more shots left at that level because yesterday I stopped at shot 45 with 30.7 fpe at 2100psi. I knew then it was a good one.
Knowing me I'll fiddle more but this one is definitely good enough to stop and use as-is. The gun itself is a laser and given I only have 3 mags (so far) this is good enough for anything I intend to do. No mods excepting trigger and a (special :) ) barrel band one. I've worn out the hammer throw "resistor" and have to check it every few shots, so I'll have to fix that. But otherwise it's just like I got it out of the box three or so weeks ago. I have a number of bookmarked and printed out aftermarket things that make up a "wish list." I'm not wishing right now. It doing everything I wanted as a gun and now it has the power and shot count to make it usable in the field.
After hundreds of hours of reading posts about tuning I've searched for, I've never come across another example of a Marauder tune on a pure stock gun that works better. It's almost always about modified guns. It seems most just jump to the conclusion no gun's going to be worthwhile without one or a number of mods... and skip the part about actually finding the potential in their guns without them. As if that's a waste of time.
This Gen2 Synrod owner argues that's not so.
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Necessary and want are two different things. Mods are not at all necessary for the Mrods, but man are they fun to get into. I think it is more of a "look what I did" satisfaction than a need to do so. After all, if it can be made better, why not make it better?!!!
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What shaky sarge said.. mods are a personal choice to satisfy yourself and the goals you have with a particular air rifle. Great tune.. enjoy that Marauder!
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Necessary and want are two different things. Mods are not at all necessary for the Mrods, but man are they fun to get into. I think it is more of a "look what I did" satisfaction than a need to do so. After all, if it can be made better, why not make it better?!!!
I understand that totally. I've spent a large part of my life making cars work better. Decades on car forums and it's always the same as you stated.
But having started that game more than fifty years ago I learned some things... like making the most of what you've got and THEN you know what you want to change.
Guns are no different. PCPs in particular, as they have tuning potential that most PBs do not. Even springers are limited. But PCPs? Fun gadgets.
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My gamo urban the only mod I did was cut the OEM fart mod off and put a rocker1 on it everyone who shoots it is surprised how much more nonfarty it is. I have one of Shakey's mrods and it was modded by him and it was good but has a bad part in the muzzle we both didn't know about. So now when things fall into place that green mountain barrel will be chopped and crowned along side of my .257 Brod build.
So modification really is personal preference if you are satisfied with out of the box then don't mess with it. Now if you are a gear head and want the best performance you can get then mod smartly.
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Have some that I was pretty much perfectly happy with as they came out the box and they still are...no "all you gotta do..."things at all.
Others where provided screws were turned, which I can't count as a mod as the screws were already there.
So basically, the two above groups are "stock"...no mods as all the parts are just the same as when you got it.
Does what you want....why mess with it?
Doesn't do what you want?..most likely becasue we want them to do things there weren't designed to do.
So there are a 3rd group that were bought with intetions of making them into things there weren't....likely because we like doing that kind of thing.
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Marauders shoot pretty good right out of the box but all benefit greatly with the installation of a SSG/FFH device. The most effective “cheap mod” that you can do, don’t know why Crosman/Benjamin never incorporated one.
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Marauders shoot pretty good right out of the box but all benefit greatly with the installation of a SSG/FFH device. The most effective “cheap mod” that you can do, don’t know why Crosman/Benjamin never incorporated one.
Dennis, can you explain those benefits to me? From what I've read they are to increase efficiency, i.e., shot count. But to me they are to some degree a bandaid, a replacement for any and all lack of refinement of the tuning process... no?
IOW, what kind of shot count can you get from yours with an SSG at 30 fpe? Please clarify your message.
Of all the various mods, an SSG is the most appealing to me, although I'm not fond of increasing the complexity of overall tuning that it represents. Still, I am interested. But to do it would mean sourcing another endcap to modify. I don't want to experiment on a gun that already satisfying my needs.
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Good plan....if you want to mod a gun you are pretty happy with, then buy the spares before you mod. There are mods you just can't undo.
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My .177 Gen I has it all.
All that motorhead had at the time.
Does it shoot (with me behind the trigger) any better?
Nope.
Does it shoot more?
Yep...30 shots vs 90 per fill.
Is it good to look at?
Uh, yeah.
Was it worth it?
I suppose.
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Definitely a #3 type PCP (from above post)….something you wanted to make rather than buy.
Doubt we save a dime that way...but we do end up with our particular/unique needs/desires met.
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Very few of my airguns aren't modified. I try to get powerful shots but still have a considerably long shot string at the same time where there's not a critical change of poi. As far as regulated I tune them for power as well, I'll open ports if they need it and adjust the regulator where it's going to conserve on air as well as the hammer spring.
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True...have that "tinkering need" with some of them.....but in this guy's post,what about the ones you left untinkered with? What did they do that you just thought:
"Nope...not going to mess with it."
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I never really tinkered with my Bluestreak at all, just normal maintenance. I never modified my PP700SA just adjusted reg and hammer spring, same with all the DAR's. None of my vintage Crosman's are modified except for one that's got an LDC on it. None of my .177 pistols have been modified.
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Very few of my airguns aren't modified. I try to get powerful shots but still have a considerably long shot string at the same time where there's not a critical change of poi. As far as regulated I tune them for power as well, I'll open ports if they need it and adjust the regulator where it's going to conserve on air as well as the hammer spring.
With my hammer spring set all the way in to 7... I'm getting spares. I assume its life is short. Seems a lot cheaper than mods to conserve it... like buying stickies for my bike and riding conservatively. Not. But that's just me. :)
With some 50 shots available at 30 fpe and speed to match of course, I also don't see the need for more, practically speaking. My Yong Heng takes care of a fill in less than a minute. So there's that to balance a regulator out and the mods to accommodate it.
But at present I'm limiting my power to the mostly JSB pellets I have on hand that I got for my D48, the heaviest being the Heavy at 18.13 gr which my gun likes best. Going forward I'd like to try some heavier pellets, which would take more tuning and I can see an SSG helping there... maybe, depending on if any are as accurate as the Heavy. It's hard to collate and separate things from the post content I've seen. But an SSG makes sense to me despite its additional tuning downside.
And as good as (I think :) ) I am, trigger wise, a lighter hammer than stock appears to reduce chassis vibration, understandably, and could improve lock time as well. Both factors theoretically improving overall accuracy.
So while from a basic standpoint mods are not necessary, per se, there are a couple I'm sorting from the mob that may offer me more of what I want... consistent accuracy at the power I want. I've had that in a PB. I've never had it in an airgun. This Mrod is as close as I've gotten so far. But now, knowing my history, having wrung what I can get from this machine out of the dealership, tinkering is in my future. The job now is... choosing my path forward.
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Marauders shoot pretty good right out of the box but all benefit greatly with the installation of a SSG/FFH device. The most effective “cheap mod” that you can do, don’t know why Crosman/Benjamin never incorporated one.
Dennis, can you explain those benefits to me? From what I've read they are to increase efficiency, i.e., shot count. But to me they are to some degree a bandaid, a replacement for any and all lack of refinement of the tuning process... no?
IOW, what kind of shot count can you get from yours with an SSG at 30 fpe? Please clarify your message.
Of all the various mods, an SSG is the most appealing to me, although I'm not fond of increasing the complexity of overall tuning that it represents. Still, I am interested. But to do it would mean sourcing another endcap to modify. I don't want to experiment on a gun that already satisfying my needs.
I guess the bottom line on a SSG/FFH devise on any PCP would be elimination of hammer bounce, increased efficiency YES. The also give you the ability to preload your hammer spring with NO preload on the valve pin. IMHO they are NOT a bandaid and Increase tuning refinement. I think you’re shooting a .22 but don’t know pellet weight. In my unregulated .25 I get 33 shots at 40 FPE with 25.39 JSBs at 850 FPS. Most of my Mrods/Brods are regulated.
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Marauders shoot pretty good right out of the box but all benefit greatly with the installation of a SSG/FFH device. The most effective “cheap mod” that you can do, don’t know why Crosman/Benjamin never incorporated one.
Dennis, can you explain those benefits to me? From what I've read they are to increase efficiency, i.e., shot count. But to me they are to some degree a bandaid, a replacement for any and all lack of refinement of the tuning process... no?
IOW, what kind of shot count can you get from yours with an SSG at 30 fpe? Please clarify your message.
Of all the various mods, an SSG is the most appealing to me, although I'm not fond of increasing the complexity of overall tuning that it represents. Still, I am interested. But to do it would mean sourcing another endcap to modify. I don't want to experiment on a gun that already satisfying my needs.
I guess the bottom line on a SSG/FFH devise on any PCP would be elimination of hammer bounce, increased efficiency YES. The also give you the ability to preload your hammer spring with NO preload on the valve pin. IMHO they are NOT a bandaid and Increase tuning refinement. I think you’re shooting a .22 but don’t know pellet weight. In my unregulated .25 I get 33 shots at 40 FPE with 25.39 JSBs at 850 FPS. Most of my Mrods/Brods are regulated.
Dennis, if you would be so kind, please explain what I don't know about pellet weight and the relevancy to my inquiry.
It is true I have a .22 as it suits my overall shooting desires. So comparisons to other guns like a .25 seem out of place to me here. If I wanted a .25 I'd have one. I didn't, so I don't.
As for hammer bounce, it is my experience due to excellent information, that detailed tuning can reduce it to virtually zero without any added modification. The benefit of an SSG, to me, is covering the fine line.
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Marauders shoot pretty good right out of the box but all benefit greatly with the installation of a SSG/FFH device. The most effective “cheap mod” that you can do, don’t know why Crosman/Benjamin never incorporated one.
Dennis, can you explain those benefits to me? From what I've read they are to increase efficiency, i.e., shot count. But to me they are to some degree a bandaid, a replacement for any and all lack of refinement of the tuning process... no?
IOW, what kind of shot count can you get from yours with an SSG at 30 fpe? Please clarify your message.
Of all the various mods, an SSG is the most appealing to me, although I'm not fond of increasing the complexity of overall tuning that it represents. Still, I am interested. But to do it would mean sourcing another endcap to modify. I don't want to experiment on a gun that already satisfying my needs.
I guess the bottom line on a SSG/FFH devise on any PCP would be elimination of hammer bounce, increased efficiency YES. The also give you the ability to preload your hammer spring with NO preload on the valve pin. IMHO they are NOT a bandaid and Increase tuning refinement. I think you’re shooting a .22 but don’t know pellet weight. In my unregulated .25 I get 33 shots at 40 FPE with 25.39 JSBs at 850 FPS. Most of my Mrods/Brods are regulated.
Dennis, if you would be so kind, please explain what I don't know about pellet weight and the relevancy to my inquiry.
It is true I have a .22 as it suits my overall shooting desires. So comparisons to other guns like a .25 seem out of place to me here. If I wanted a .25 I'd have one. I didn't, so I don't.
As for hammer bounce, it is my experience due to excellent information, that detailed tuning can reduce it to virtually zero without any added modification. The benefit of an SSG, to me, is covering the fine line.
You asked about shot count and FPE, I don’t have a stock .22 for comparison. You can compare all stock Marauders regardless of caliber since they share the same valve, hammer, striker, hammer spring, etc. Since the ONLY thing you’re sharing in this thread is FPE and shooting a .22, I’ll put out a guess of 18.13 grain pellets @ 865-880 FPS? Heavier pellets would = slower FPS but same FPE. If you have negated hammer bounce with the Mrods HEAVY hammer and without ANY aftermarket or homemade parts I commend you but highly doubt it.
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The anti bounce.SSG devices are easier.....don't think they have to be better,just takes less time to get the balance right and more easy to adjust to a goal energy.
The "natural method" takes a lot more time/tesgting/adjusting and ends up at whatever energy the rifle decides it likes.
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The anti bounce.SSG devices are easier.....don't think they have to be better,just takes less time to get the balance right and more easy to adjust to a goal energy.
The "natural method" takes a lot more time/tesgting/adjusting and ends up at whatever energy the rifle decides it likes.
Precisely as I see it. Thanks for the confirmation. Exactly what I needed.
Now, your perspective on a lighter hammer?
There are other things I'd like but don't need so are somewhere down the line from here... like a lighter air tube, Boyds stock, different trigger, etc. But for right now all I'm interested in is a defined path forward once I've satisfied myself with the way things are... which are great actually.
Thanks for your learned input Ribbonstone.
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Read my "marauder tune easier". Just search it on gta(2014).
Great tuning in stock form with only 4 shots of data.
Marty2 was able to do a 30fpe tune under 3% with his gen2 .22 (stock).
These Marauder's do tune nicely but as everyone points out, a spring or ssg will increase that efficiency by at least 30% or more.
got on the PC, here is the link:
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=75909.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=75909.0)
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Not if you don't want a smoother trigger, a lighter gun, smoother cocking, with higher power that sips air very efficiently producing a tighter ES within a 2% spread instead of a 4% to 7% spread. Whatever you want out of a Marauder you can have.
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Great job getting the gun set up the way you want it. There is no reason to mod these guns unless you want to. But since you are insisting that you have no hammer bounce with your tune, I'd like to point out that you almost certainly have at least some amount at the bottom of your string - as the pressure drops, there is no way around the fact that hammer is likely bouncing. Bounce is rarely an issue on the first half of a well tuned shot string, but it becomes more defined as we continue to shoot the pressure down.
Other than that, many of the other mods are not about "tuning" and more about accuracy through consistency and ergonomics. I had a Gen I .22 that I shot for years and had tuned very efficiently, and it shot great for hunting/pesting but I wanted more accuracy for paper targets, and that led to the application of a regulator - and accuracy improved. Not through the "tune" / efficiency, or consistency or speed, but by delivering a more consistent shot cycle across the string the barrel harmonics stabillized and accuracy improved (even though you have an acceptable ES, and the speed may be the same for say your 5th shot and 25th shot as tuned, the shot cycle itself is very different - pressure, dwell etc - and a regulator takes a lot of that variation out.
The key is whether you are happy with it or not. If yes, leave it alone. And the hammer spring won't wear out from your settings, so don't worry about that . . .
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Fate:
The trick is to know what you want it to do,and stop when you find it.
Anything else is a bottomless pit...there is always a couple of foot pounds more...a shot or two more per fill...a 1/2%less velocity variation....all goals, just be sure they are goals that justify the work getting there.
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You guys are incredible. I have plenty to think about and due to your input, that may take a while. Actually I am happy with the way it is and how it's shooting now. I've gone down too many rabbit holes in my life that I'm a little more cautious about taking that first step anymore... and life is smoother and more rewarding overall as a result.
Doesn't mean I won't keep reading and thinking, weighing options, doing the vicarious thing because that's its own kind of fun, sometimes even more than the actual thing. There's more possibilities that way without the regrets of getting what one wants... and living with decisions you wish you never made, especially something new that obviates all the work you've done.
Thank you all for sharing your wisdom, insight, and experience. You've given me peace.
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I have no use for any gun I cant mod, its half the fun of owning it.
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Since your Mrod seems to be set up how you want it, maybe it's time to buy another gun to tweak or mod. :D
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Jeff,
I will offer one other nice thing about an SSG - not that you need to add one if you don't want to (a gun shoots fine without one, up to a point).
As I mentioned above, almost all well tuned guns do get into hammer bounce near the end of the shot string. In addition to my Marauders (which I constantly mod and swap parts on as a hobby unto itself) I have a Daystate Air Ranger that is awesome and pretty much unmodified except for two things - I swapped the bottle to CF to save over a pound of weight, and I made an internal SSG for it.
I made the SSG mostly to see if I could, and one of the requirements I set was that it could not require any changes to the gun at all, I succeeded and found that not only was the gun much more efficient on the back half of the shot string, but since there was no bounce and wasted air, that I could keep shooting at the back end of the tune if I wanted to with no issue other than a slowly declining pellet speed. My base tune on this gun is about 30 shots of .22 Hades at 890 fps from 1950 psi down to about 1650 fps with about 2% ES, but I can keep shooting all the way down to 1000 psi for over 90 shots if I want, say if I am just shooting close or plinking. There is very little change in the shot should as the speed slowly drops to about 800 fps or so. Before the SSG I never would even have tried it as the gun would have been farting air by shot 50 and probably would have dumped all remaining air at some point soon after that.
Anyways, some of these simple mods don't just let you tune the gun differently, they let you use it differently too. Enjoy!
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Alan, I know enough now to understand that. My trouble is, I can't decide if a DIY SSG is better than a JSAR TSS. If I got the TSS I argue that route would be quicker, plus I'd have the stock end cap to take my time modifying into a SSG so I could see the differences.
Jerry, just yesterday my wife looked at my new gun rack, smiled, and asked... "Sure you don't need another one?" She knows me all too well. After all the car crazy she's endured, I guess guns are a welcome change.
Travis, you're preaching to the choir. I've belonged to that church all my life. Too old to change my religion now.
There was a time I didn't feel at home unless I was in a bar. Then it was being among my car buddies, parked side by side by side with opened hoods. Somehow this place has the comforting feel of both...
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Jeff,
I have Marauders with both the original TSS and what I believe to be the current one (although mine are all Gen I guns). The original actually used two springs in it, and it is an awesome piece of kit. I like it so much that ordered a second one, but that one had been simplified and I really don't know why they called it a "TSS" anymore as it only used one spring - don't know if they are still that way but I expect so. While it still was much better than the conventional M-rod end cap system, it was no where near as beneficial as the original. If the current offerings are still the same (only use one spring and don't have the lockable adjusting collar for the main spring) then I would say a SSG is better. I do feel the original TSS was superior to most SSGs, but not the second one I got.
One of the things I liked about the original TSS is that, while working with a regulator, it allowed me to set of the gun to basically have two power levels - a lower one with the inner spring backed all the way out, and I could gain about 5 FPE with the inner all the way in (when set up with an acorn nut on the adjuster). It allowed me to swing between JSB Kings and King Heavies in my .25 cal without the Heavies dropping like a brick (although a few more FPE in that swing would have been better. Just some of the intersting things we can try with some of these moddified parts . . .
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I agree with Alan 100% on the original TSS being the best over the new revised TSS or the DIY SSG. The original TSS allowed for independent adjustments of both hammer springs for detailed tuning abilities. I wouldn't wastes money on the new TSS, except for it does allow for more spring length (for easier cocking effort) and some better spring adjustment over the stock end cap.
Here is a link to a DIY SSG I built. The adjustments are similar to stock and it will not change the look of your gun in any way externally. It will make your gun quieter with its efficiency gains, but the efficiency gains will be subject to how inefficient a gun currently is.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=110660.msg1056871#msg1056871 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=110660.msg1056871#msg1056871)
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Have some that are pretty heavily modded. Once I got where I was going....I stopped.
Others were bought, tested, maybe adjusted a supplied screw, then just stopped rather...were just where I wanted them to be.
BUT...I started with a goal in mind.
Not against modding rifles...but if it does what you want it to do without modding….why would you?
Could be you bought a rifle with some feature you don't like and what to change. Doesn't matter what you don't like, just that you don't like it enough to change it.
OR a rifle that you already have, but no longer do the type of shooting it was made for.
Or you just like changing stuff. Maybe for uniqueness…maybe just to see if you can....it's a hobby in itself.
But seriously....as the original posted asked....you don't HAVE to mod anything if it's doing what you want it to do. He should care that it doesn't do what you want yours to do?
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Keith, I'm disheartened to read the above after I sent you a PM earlier asking about it... wouldn't waste your money on it? That's to the point.
The major issue I have with the DIY SSG, from a theoretical POV, is that the OEM hammer is, from all accounts, too heavy... and the DIY SSG makes it even heavier with that bolt. I get the other factors.
What I'm considering is the JSAR TSS, which is a twin spring system. To complement it as well as address that hammer weight is their nylon hammer. Both seem to provide the mean to the ends being supported, i.e., more efficiency, higher but more importantly a consistently effective shot count, quieter operation, and as an overall result more consistent accuracy.
Clear my muddled thoughts here, please. This mind game is getting confusing lol.
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I believe the single most significant mod I did to my Synrod was upgrade to the JSAR lightweight tube. That completely changed that whole gun. I did other things, such as the TSS and the lighter 'plastic' hammer but, the 1.5lb. weight reduction from changing that tube..... WOW!! .. what a difference.
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Fate: On the way...good...ask questions....just nail down the goals.
Not opposed to mods,just for the ones that aren't meeting your needs for that rifle.
HAve two rifles that use a system like that...spring limiter/light striker....were never really well adjustedby other ways; seemed the quickest way to get to where I wanted to be.
In my case, wanted more shots,no increase in cocking effort, about the same power....and I accepted the trade off in equal power/more shots for the personal/acceptible cocking force required.
If I had wanted more power,would have looked to valve mods to decrease the closing force of the valve and a cleaner/less cluttered air flow....eventually adjusting to the same cocking force but more power.
Rifles I had messed around with for years, getting to do what I wanted by other ways, didn't really take to the changes well enough to keep.
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Keith, I'm disheartened to read the above after I sent you a PM earlier asking about it... wouldn't waste your money on it? That's to the point.
Well don't stop there read the rest of it. "except for it does allow for more spring length (for easier cocking effort) and some better spring adjustment over the stock end cap".
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I believe the single most significant mod I did to my Synrod was upgrade to the JSAR lightweight tube. That completely changed that whole gun. I did other things, such as the TSS and the lighter 'plastic' hammer but, the 1.5lb. weight reduction from changing that tube..... WOW!! .. what a difference.
I feel I need to qualify this a little better..
I'm not a big power guy. If I do mods on a gun it's for shot count, accuracy and better triggers. But again, I don't like a heavy gun... for one reason I've had total shoulder replacement on my left arm. That JSAR tube was just the ticket for the Synrod.
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I'm surprised, and impressed by the classy people here. You're direct but diplomatic, helping without being critical. Frankly, I expected to be confronted, to be asked to put up or shut up. But of all the respondents only one has indicated that attitude.
I hate to waste my best pellets, the 18.13 gr JSB Heavies, and usually only shoot every 10th shot with one, the rest being the JSB Jumbo 15.89 that I have the most of. But I just shot a string to see if the tune duplicated earlier results. I don't have a fancy chronograph, just my little clamp-on $30 Chinese one. Nor do I have any programs that, once I translate MPS into FPS with an app then use an online facility to compute FPE, that can be displayed in these refined pages. All I have is my raw data on a Post It sticky.
That said, if I post a picture of that note, can I hope for some advice and response? I trust the numbers will be familiar to everyone... it's the format I'm ashamed of. With hope you'll treat me kind, I'm taking the chance and attaching a picture of my string. All comments are welcomed.
This is part of my ongoing research for direction. Like I've said, I'm happy with the gun and tune as-is, but I note as I shoot its lack of sophistication as well. Maybe with this information some of you will be better able to confirm my choices going forward or steer me in a better direction. That choice right now is the JSAR TSS and nylon light weight hammer. After learning just this afternoon that our valued member Travis, who I believe was the originator of the TSS, was a part of JSAR, my confidence in these choices got a big boost.
Here's the pic. As can be seen I got 40 shots at 30 fpe or over between about 2900 psi and 2100 psi (which I see I didn't record, but noted when I filled it). I always fill to 3000 and shoot a couple shots to make sure where POI is before putting the chrony on the barrel which always changes it a little. However, this string was started at 3000, and took 3 shots to reach 30 fpe... valve harder to open I presume. With that in mind, were I to take a working tune outside I'd make sure it was at 2900 when I put a mag in.
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I got use to working in list format....just easier for me,other people prefer to visualize in graphs/bell curves(or venn diagrams for all I know).
Really hard to read the little inexact gagues...so assume asmuch as a 100PSI errorcould creepi,both ways.But even if that were 3000-2000psi, it's still a quite good tune....if 2900-2100,it's a great use of air (figuring on the normal MRod air volume).
Really not much to be gained on that front.
Yeah the long spring....seems to translate into stiffer cocking. IF I'm looking for power,I'll go with better air flow without the stiff springs.
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I'm so used to lists, combined with an electronics background where mental imaging brings scope displays up, the numbers work for me. I quote my gauge for reference purposes, I accept something is up because I use my Yong Heng's gauge to pump to 3000, which is always 3200 on the gun. Not knowing which is closer to fact, I use the gun's gauge as my reference.
And as to reading gauges... there were no digital anything during my earlier years, just interpolation of mechanical gauges. I got my first slide rule at 12 in 1952, so I'm careful on analog things. What I reference is what that gauge says.
I hear that on the cocking effort... but I've turned the spring down to zero several times to see what difference it makes. And honestly, it's not much different to me... not easy by any means either way. My normal cocking is done with the gun on my shoulder, and it's become routine... not invisible, but not an issue either. Cocking effort really doesn't impact my thinking one way or another.
After doing several multi-hundred pellet sessions in my D48, anything is puny by comparison. :)