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All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Projectiles => Boolit and Pellet Casting => Topic started by: TreeburnerCT on August 02, 2020, 05:38:26 PM
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Yesterday I received my NOE .22 20gr Hunter pellet mold, my first brass mold from NOE but not my first mold from NOE. I heat cycled it and smoked the cavities and pins, then heated the mold over the pot while it got up to heat.
I started casting and was getting beautiful pellets from the start. After around 20 casts (40 pellets) all of a sudden the mold wouldn't open. It took a number of knocks around the mold but I got it to open, but once I closed it it started doing the same thing again. The pin further away seemed to be hanging up while the other released freely.
I've never oiled any of my molds but I don't think this is the problem. Has anyone ever had to polish the alignment pins on an NOE mold? I don't want to ruin it but I think maybe some minor wet sanding might resolve the issue. Thoughts?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50182048867_844cb7e29a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jsq7P6)NOE .22 20gr Hunter Pellet (https://flic.kr/p/2jsq7P6) by Joe Eckert (https://www.flickr.com/photos/rapidphotoct/), on Flickr
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Either that or a Scotch-Bright pad. You can put a torch to the pins and heat them up more as well. I would try the pad and then smoke them after. Really if they are not dropping off you need more heat. The first few cast are typically always too cold even though you can have some luck with being smoked, but that doesn't last long. I have hit the pins with dangling slugs with a torch when I couldn't even pull them off the pins. Just as soon as I hit the back of the pins with a little heat they dropped right off. Too much and the slugs start to melt.
You can also put a very, very small amount of two-cycle oil on the pin tips using a Q-tip, but don't let it get it anywhere else.
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You might have to adjust the tabs that hold the the pins in position, I think there was a recent post about the process, may be as simple as loosening the screws and setting the pins square, or the adjustment tabs may need to be slightly bent.
Heat buildup in brass can change the dimensions, so casting slower may work also.
If you think it just needs lube, try drawing some #2 lead on the pins with a pencil.
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I've had the same problem with mine. I've taken them and polished them to be so slick I have a hard time picking them up. Haven't a chance to try it out yet but seems to work for Knife.
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He said alignment pins, not core pins.
Put a just little sprue lube on the pin and in the receiving bushing.
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NOE recommend that you heat cycle the mould a few times before casting to "break in" the alignment pins....
Bob
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Ahh that I have never had an issue with :-X
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The issue is the alignment pins, not the hollow cup pins, and I did heat cycle the mold a few times to set the pins. I will check the pins for any burrs then lube them before my next casting session and I'm sure it will work better. Thanks all!
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It appears there's also a small burr along the edge of the cup pin cutout which is causing a bit of wobble in the alignment of the mold keeping both edges from seating completely, that may have also affected the alignment since the mold wasn't going together perfectly. Will have to bring it to work to clean it up.
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You state that you do not use the oil, and it isn't an issue. But then again, the issue you are having is caused by exactly that. And exactly why
Swede of NOE says use the two cycle oil! Period!!!
By not using the oil, the steel pins are oxidizing and causing sticking. It will continue to get worse until you follow instructions.
You are causing the issue by not following instructions. Plain and simple. ;)
Knife
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Not just any 2 smoke oil but synthetic oil. I tried a semi synthetic oil and it caused the pins to stick.
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+1!!! ;) 8)
Knife
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I just about couldn't get my last NOE mold to open for love nor money taking it out of the box. I really like the tight tolerance it has. I have fought with it some since, but it straightens out a lot once you set the pins as per the instructions by heat cycling the mold a number of times. Getting the drop pins and brackets aligned properly helped a lot also. I'll dab some NOE lube on the pins if I start having trouble with sticking, which clears that right up. The mold can still stick a little when cold, but that's good. I prefer one that has tight tolerances that I don't have to fight with while casting is in progress.