GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Beeman Airguns => Topic started by: bryan123 on July 09, 2020, 10:36:36 AM
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Hi, I'm a newbie to 10 meter air pistols and am considering a Beeman P3 aka Weihrauch HW40.
I'm aware of a (much) less expensive clone, the Beeman P17 which has identical specs, and maybe identical accuracy, but a lot of negative comments about reliability issues.
To those of you who are familiar with these pistols, does the better reliability of the P3/HW40 justify the much higher cost?
Thanks for any input!
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Bryan,
I have five P17s and have given away that many more. Have only had one valve that had to be re-tightened. O-rings are readily available ( I already had the correct ones in an O-ring variety kit).
I stabilized the rear sight by adding a small O-ring under the rear sight with the adjusting screw passing thru it. You may have to trim it to the correct thickness. This keeps the vertical adjusting screw from moving while the pistol is being cocked.
I add a spacer to the trigger travel adjusting screw to limit the excessive travel. Keep the piston wet with lube.
There are pages of information here on tweaking a P17.
Anyhow, I would start with a new P17. It is the best buy in air pistols. It you really don't like, it was only a small investment.
BobH.
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Bryan,
I have five P17s and have given away that many more.
BobH.
If you would give one to me, problem would be solved LOL
Thanks for the info!
Adding you to buddy list with your permission...
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I can't say it any better than Bob H. But that won't stop me from adding my $0.02.
Even if you paid more than the $7.00 Walmart was selling them for you just can't beat the value.
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Hi, I'm a newbie to 10 meter air pistols and am considering a Beeman P3 aka Weihrauch HW40.
I'm aware of a (much) less expensive clone, the Beeman P17 which has identical specs, and maybe identical accuracy, but a lot of negative comments about reliability issues.
To those of you who are familiar with these pistols, does the better reliability of the P3/HW40 justify the much higher cost?
Thanks for any input!
no
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Hi, I'm a newbie to 10 meter air pistols and am considering a Beeman P3 aka Weihrauch HW40.
I'm aware of a (much) less expensive clone, the Beeman P17 which has identical specs, and maybe identical accuracy, but a lot of negative comments about reliability issues.
To those of you who are familiar with these pistols, does the better reliability of the P3/HW40 justify the much higher cost?
Thanks for any input!
no
LOL gee, Chuck, what do you really think? You gave me great advice on the CMP 853, that is certain. Love that rifle. Dime size groups at 10m.
If I do decide to buy one, I'll check the warranty carefully and buy it locally if possible.
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thanks for the kind words, Bryan. i am really glad you are enjoying the 853.
the P-17 is a great gun for the price. Dad and i sit and shoot suspended pop cans for hours - up to 100 shots each - with the P-17. i load and cock the pistol for Dad, as he is now 87, but still loves to shoot. we both enjoy seeing the cans dance when hit at about 25 feet. lots and lots of quality time i get to spend with Dad.
for serious 10M accuracy and competition, you will probably want to look into a different type of pistol. entry level PCP pistols such as the Hammerli AP20, or, even better, the Hammerli AP20 PRO are very good starter pistols for those wanting to begin serious 10M competition shooting . . . but there are many others to choose.
ac12 - a member here on GTA - is an accomplished 10M shooter, and will offer great advice and suggestions
my suggestion is to get a P-17, maybe even two, and start shooting. i bought one . . . then another . . . then . . . well . . . i have four . . . .
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When you pick one up make sure to take it apart first and smooth the piston out. I didnt read about that until later and just noticed scratches on it. Just a couple that dont seem to harm velocity but it is annoying to look at. BTW, I havent taken mine apart yet but plan to do so. Very accurate pistol.
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. . . Dime size groups at 10m.
overlooked this the first read . . . the gun will do better . . . and so will you - just keep practicing
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thanks for the kind words, Bryan. i am really glad you are enjoying the 853.
the P-17 is a great gun for the price. Dad and i sit and shoot suspended pop cans for hours - up to 100 shots each - with the P-17. i load and cock the pistol for Dad, as he is now 87, but still loves to shoot. we both enjoy seeing the cans dance when hit at about 25 feet. lots and lots of quality time i get to spend with Dad.
for serious 10M accuracy and competition, you will probably want to look into a different type of pistol. entry level PCP pistols such as the Hammerli AP20, or, even better, the Hammerli AP20 PRO are very good starter pistols for those wanting to begin serious 10M competition shooting . . . but there are many others to choose.
ac12 - a member here on GTA - is an accomplished 10M shooter, and will offer great advice and suggestions
my suggestion is to get a P-17, maybe even two, and start shooting. i bought one . . . then another . . . then . . . well . . . i have four . . . .
Never ever pass up an opportunity to spend time with your Dad, no matter what...
My Dad passed in April 2018, the day before I was going to fly down to Florida for a visit. He would have been 90 in May....
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Bryan,
I have five P17s and have given away that many more. Have only had one valve that had to be re-tightened. O-rings are readily available ( I already had the correct ones in an O-ring variety kit).
I stabilized the rear sight by adding a small O-ring under the rear sight with the adjusting screw passing thru it. You may have to trim it to the correct thickness. This keeps the vertical adjusting screw from moving while the pistol is being cocked.
I add a spacer to the trigger travel adjusting screw to limit the excessive travel. Keep the piston wet with lube.
There are pages of information here on tweaking a P17.
Anyhow, I would start with a new P17. It is the best buy in air pistols. It you really don't like, it was only a small investment.
BobH.
I think this (in bold) says it all. Many of us can say the same, and I cannot think of another gun referred to this way.
Reliability is not much of an issue, it is quite solidly built and an o-ring replacement, which is a two minute job, (unless you lose the e-clip) is more maintenance than repair. Just not a big deal.
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Buy a P17 first.
Shoot it a lot.
Then you will probably buy another P17.
Then decide if you want a P3.
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Buy 5 and invite your friends.... more fun than a sock drawer full of rattlesnakes.
We had my Sister and BIL spend a weekend with us. We sat a whole day shooting these pistols. When they left, I sent 2 of the pistols home with them. My BIL passed away a short time later. I have the fond memory of that day.
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Thanks everyone for the responses so far.
I'm a 60 year old physician who needs progressive bifocals and I would like to buy a really nice, dare I say, heirloom quality 10 meter single pump pneumatic (non-CO2) pistol for 5-10m target practice, plinking , and maybe competition if I ever get that good.
It also has to have a dovetail to accommodate a red dot for when my vision gets worse. This is why I didn't select the Air Venturi V10 for $270 (yes I'd spend that much if it did have a dovetail).
So it comes down to a P3, P17, or keep hoping to find a fully functional used Daisy 717, 747, etc. which has eluded me..... I'm not very handy with tools at all because of low digital dexterity (NOT a surgeon lol) so I do not envision doing tweaks or mods on a P17...
all suggestions welcome. Thanks
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Bryon.... at some point, all air guns will want some tweaking or some level of repair..... even the big money guns, regardless of what some may say. Some require more than others. "You get what you pay for" does not apply.
What these folks are trying to say is that the P-17 is arguably one of the 'best bang for you buck' guns.
Tinkering and modding is not required in most cases.... however, minor buffing and lubing will reward you greatly. The P-17 has stamped parts. As dies get dull, they leave burrs on the stamped parts. Stamped steel is not the same as slicing cheese. The last 10% of metal snaps off when cut with a die. The burrs left behind make contact points in movable parts seem draggy and gritty.
The very best way to disassemble, smooth and lube is to take your time and take pictures along the way.
Outside of that, the folks here at the GTA are always happy to lend a hand.
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Bryon.... at some point, all air guns will want some tweaking or some level of repair..... even the big money guns, regardless of what some may say. Some require more than others. "You get what you pay for" does not apply.
What these folks are trying to say is that the P-17 is arguably one of the 'best bang for you buck' guns.
Tinkering and modding is not required in most cases.... however, minor buffing and lubing will reward you greatly. The P-17 has stamped parts. As dies get dull, they leave burrs on the stamped parts. Stamped steel is not the same as slicing cheese. The last 10% of metal snaps off when cut with a die. The burrs left behind make contact points in movable parts seem draggy and gritty.
The very best way to disassemble, smooth and lube is to take your time and take pictures along the way.
Outside of that, the folks here at the GTA are always happy to lend a hand.
Thanks just added you to my buddy list.
I lube my guns with 30 weight non detergent btw ...the only other thing in my tool box lol is a checkbook.
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Bryon.... at some point, all air guns will want some tweaking or some level of repair..... even the big money guns, regardless of what some may say. Some require more than others. "You get what you pay for" does not apply.
What these folks are trying to say is that the P-17 is arguably one of the 'best bang for you buck' guns.
Tinkering and modding is not required in most cases.... however, minor buffing and lubing will reward you greatly. The P-17 has stamped parts. As dies get dull, they leave burrs on the stamped parts. Stamped steel is not the same as slicing cheese. The last 10% of metal snaps off when cut with a die. The burrs left behind make contact points in movable parts seem draggy and gritty.
The very best way to disassemble, smooth and lube is to take your time and take pictures along the way.
Outside of that, the folks here at the GTA are always happy to lend a hand.
Thanks just added you to my buddy list.
I lube my guns with 30 weight non detergent btw ...the only other thing in my tool box lol is a checkbook.
Probably not a good idea to use petroleum based oils. Detonation can occur and damage seals and orings.
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Bryon.... at some point, all air guns will want some tweaking or some level of repair..... even the big money guns, regardless of what some may say. Some require more than others. "You get what you pay for" does not apply.
What these folks are trying to say is that the P-17 is arguably one of the 'best bang for you buck' guns.
Tinkering and modding is not required in most cases.... however, minor buffing and lubing will reward you greatly. The P-17 has stamped parts. As dies get dull, they leave burrs on the stamped parts. Stamped steel is not the same as slicing cheese. The last 10% of metal snaps off when cut with a die. The burrs left behind make contact points in movable parts seem draggy and gritty.
The very best way to disassemble, smooth and lube is to take your time and take pictures along the way.
Outside of that, the folks here at the GTA are always happy to lend a hand.
Thanks just added you to my buddy list.
I lube my guns with 30 weight non detergent btw ...the only other thing in my tool box lol is a checkbook.
Probably not a good idea to use petroleum based oils. Detonation can occur and damage seals and orings.
The Benjamin hand pump repairman told me to use Mobile 1 synthetic oil.