GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => PCP/CO2/HPA Air Gun Gates "The Darkside" => Topic started by: YEMX on June 18, 2020, 05:10:36 PM
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So the "dispatch gun" idea I had before didn't exactly pan out the way I wanted. I just ended up w/another AF gun ::) ;D ;D ;D
Super simple...
Prod length disco tube
Prod trigger
Prod gauge block
Power adjuster
LDC adapter
.22 Caliber
I'm going this route because I have all the parts (some I've only JUST found today), and a few of you mentioned that a dispatch gun would be perfectly effective as a .22 and around 14+ fpe at point blank range. So here we are. A short Disco. I can also use the LDC I had made for the EscapeSS (the first "dispatch gun"), and it should be really effective for a under 20 fpe .22...
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My current dispatch gun.... It's light, fairly compact, right at 32" IIRC. 45-50 shots of 45fpe, slight overkill for the HOSPS that built nests in my truck grill, lol....Of all of my airguns this one has proven to be the most practical for "around the house" duties.
(https://i.imgur.com/hCdfEG2.jpg)
Your threads on this topic have had me intrigued the entire time. I have an old B&A "Thirty-Plus" breech and matching Gen 1 Mrod tube..... what about cutting down the Mrod tube, rethreading it, and making a Gen 1 Mrod based pistol using a prod trigger I doubt I'll ever go through with it, but the makings of a cool dispatch pistol are there. Breech is dovetailed so easy to add an optic, or not. If you were interested I'm sure we could come up with some parts to swap around.
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That sure is a sweet bullpup!! The EscapeSS Ended up being 30" OAL w/o the LDC, 39" with. W/o the stock/arm brace attached, it's 28" OAL... and it's not low powered! ;D I do still want a bullpup! Curse me for not double checking addresses!! >:(
I was thinking the same w/a Mrod, as I have a short Mrod tube (for a bottle conversion) that's not going to get used... But the Prod trigger would require more work than I'd want to do- it's either sand down the frame to match the radius of the Mrod tube, or make a new sear. Thank you for the offer though! But the Mrod path is more work than I want to do currently...
Speaking of .25's, my Gen2 Mrod "Fat and Slow" low powered .25 project is nearly complete!! So I'll have that to use for pest control ;D When I say dispatch, I really mean "dispatch", as in a sick, or wounded animal that needs to be dealt with quickly, quietly, and humanely. Everything else, I consider pesting. It may just be semantics- no biggie...
I would still like to do this build someday:
Prod length Disco tube
Cothran powerhouse valve
22xx trigger
Prod gauge block
.357 barrel that is both the breech and barrel in one piece, like the Crosman 1400
Some other little goodies and an LDC adapter that would have to be heated to install on the barrel for a "permanent" fit. I'll build this after ALL my other projects, since my lathe will absolutely be up and running by then.
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I didn't realize all of the work required to put the prod trigger on the Mrod tube, thanks for sharing that bit of info. I think I still have a spare WAR valve and mds hammers. All i am missing is the prod trigger and Gen 1 rear end cap.....some day I may get to work on it..
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Yessir- There was someone making the conversion sears- but I can't remember who that was, and I'm pretty sure they're not making those sears anymore.
Speaking of trigger set ups- I'm going back and forth on whether or not to start designing a M700 trigger block and sear (basically a Flex trigger) for a future Mrod based project... I really like the idea of using a M700 trigger with an Mrod. I don't know why I'm so enamored with it. Combine the M700 trigger set up w/a custom stock? Yes please!
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I’d go simple and use a PP700/750 in .22. Crank it up and use a heavy wadcutter. Get a Colt 45 holster and you’ve got the perfect coup de grace gun.
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Yessir- There was someone making the conversion sears- but I can't remember who that was, and I'm pretty sure they're not making those sears anymore.
Speaking of trigger set ups- I'm going back and forth on whether or not to start designing a M700 trigger block and sear (basically a Flex trigger) for a future Mrod based project... I really like the idea of using a M700 trigger with an Mrod. I don't know why I'm so enamored with it. Combine the M700 trigger set up w/a custom stock? Yes please!
Another center fire bolt action trigger I've seen used is a modified Mauser trigger from Timney, that is what is on my Extreme. It does a good job of keeping the trigger closer to the tube vs. the setup use on the Flex...
(https://i.imgur.com/s47IF1v.jpg)
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I’d go simple and use a PP700/750 in .22. Crank it up and use a heavy wadcutter. Get a Colt 45 holster and you’ve got the perfect coup de grace gun.
My PP700 is already slated for a re-build into a carbine (was going to be a bottle gun- still might be), with a conversion to .20 caliber... I don't feel like buying another gun ;D 95% of the parts for this updated dispatch gun build I already have on hand from old projects that never went anywhere... I have A LOT of those! ;D ;D ;D
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This is probably a silly question... I want to use the Prod gauge block in my Disco tube. I see in the parts diagram that there's a spacer between the front of the valve and the gauge block in the Prod... Do I need this spacer? I don't remember reading whether I do or not. I don't think I need it, but I want to be sure before ordering any parts... Also- Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't normal gauges just thread directly into a Prod gauge block? I have a few gauges and would like to use them if possible.
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Prod gauge block is threaded 1/8 npt. No need for a spacer unless you are running a regulator.
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The spacer in the Prod is because the gauge is further away from the valve. On Disco, gauge block butts up against the valve.
Citrus Airguns (long gone) was the 1st I know of to offer the sear. In a different thread, someone mentioned Lloyd Sykes use to make them. Might be worth the cost of a IM to see if he has any lying around.
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Prod gauge block is threaded 1/8 npt. No need for a spacer unless you are running a regulator.
The spacer in the Prod is because the gauge is further away from the valve. On Disco, gauge block butts up against the valve.
SWEET, that's what I thought- I just wanted to be sure! Most excellent gentlemen, I thank you!
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That Mauser trigger mod is sweet- but there's no M700 safety lever- which is part of the reason why I like the mod... I have both types of triggers, so perhaps I'll experiment! I think a 1903A3 trigger is close enough to a Mauser's ;) ;D
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That Mauser trigger mod is sweet- but there's no M700 safety lever- which is part of the reason why I like the mod... I have both types of triggers, so perhaps I'll experiment! I think a 1903A3 trigger is close enough to a Mauser's ;) ;D
I always enjoy seeing how others adapt/repurpose items. I would have never had the vision to use the Timney Mauser trigger in the manner that Brent did with the Extreme.
Note the difference in sear when comparing Timney Mauser vs Timney 700. If I were buying these triggers and adapting to an airgun I would likely go with the Mauser style.... Timney makes a version with 700 style safety, too...
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...Timney makes a [Mauser] version with 700 style safety, too...
Well NOW we're cookin' w/fire!! I'll definitely check that out- a low profile trigger unit w/a M700 style safety sounds to be just the ticket!
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Found it! Timney Mauser Featherweight Deluxe! I may have to get one and start doing some fitment... This would make a pretty cool addition to either one of my bottle guns, or my .172 build!! Or perhaps all 3, if I can do a good enough job adapting it to the Mrod!!
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lookin for a lil get-r -done gun...well that's easy.
(https://i.ibb.co/Y8KVHRL/20191125-125348.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nfVKxgL)
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lookin for a lil get-r -done gun...well that's easy.
(https://i.ibb.co/Y8KVHRL/20191125-125348.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nfVKxgL)
One of these days, I'm going to pick one of those up- I LOVE those BSA's with the MMC set up! But that's still too big for what I want ;D It's bigger than a Prod-length (actually a touch shorter w/o LDC) pistol. But thank you for the picture!! I always love seeing those old BSA's!
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Just use the PP700. It’s perfect. You can see my shortened PP700 laying by the dead bandit. I never investigate a downed critter without it. Cheaper than wasting another slug.
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I see the Op's point, have parts enough to make a few guns and then some, want to keep cost down and recycle the assortment of parts on hand ... never ending story ;D
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I see the Op's point, have parts enough to make a few guns and then some, want to keep cost down and recycle the assortment of parts on hand ... never ending story ;D
Pretty much!!
I agree about the PP700, but that's slated for another experiment/build. I'm turning it into a carbine. Still haven't decided on whether or not to bottle it. The only thing I know I'm doing to it is a .20 conversion. I'm certainly not wasting a .20 pellet on dispatching! ;D ;D ;D
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I took some better measurements on some of the parts I have; I needed to double check on how long I need/want to make the main tube... Getting closer to either sending the tube I have off, or buying a tube already to the OAL I want, so I want to make absolutely sure of all my measurements. Y'all know how all my projects go! ;D I definitely need to do my due diligence!
I have a 14" barrel, and with the short LDC adapter I have, I'm able to go with a 15" long tube, and still be able to take off the dust cap w/no hang-ups. I know .25" of air tube isn't much- but I'll take all I can get... But not TOO much though, this pistol is already longer than I'd like ;D ;D Well, yes and no. To be honest, it's just about right. The main tube is .5" shorter than a Prod, and the barrel is 2" longer with the OAL being shorter. Plus it's got a slimmer profile, having a steel breech and no barrel shroud... I'm much more happy with this version of the Dispatch Gun build. I mean, it's no stubby 2240, but to be able to get the power I'm after in that compact a package, I'd have to use a .22 LR, and that's out of the question. So here we are. Also, I don't want to use CO2, in case I have to use this in the winter...
Perhaps a good compromise would be a tube length of a 2250: 10" or maybe a 12" tube? With a corresponding shorter barrel... Everything else being the same... It WOULD be significantly shorter... I don't need a high shot count... 1-2 at most. Plus I'd have a small tank for re-fills with me. Or perhaps make a small refill tank out of a 500cc 4500 psi CF bottle... I COULD do that... oooohhhhh frak. ;D ;D Let me think on this.
I'm thinking the longer barrel would help in the sound dept. though, yes? i.e. a longer barrel would be more quiet than a shorter barrel (both shooting through an LDC of course)...
So... 12" main tube, 11" barrel... Everything else the same... Yeah, definitely have to think on this... That would be an OAL of around 14" or so... Hmmmmmm Prod is about 18"... Hmmmm... I dunno- it's more work to shorten the barrel too. But would it be worth it to shave another 4" off the OAL?
WHY AM I LIKE THIS?! ::) ;D ;D
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If it was me, I'd forgo the gauge block. Check it regularly for leaks and always put it away full. Those extra ccs of air would go a long way in helping that second shot.
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If it was me, I'd forgo the gauge block. Check it regularly for leaks and always put it away full. Those extra ccs of air would go a long way in helping that second shot.
I don't have a choice about the gauge block- what would I do about the gaping hole in the tube? Buying a gauge delete valve defeats the point, which is to use all my spare parts up... I've only had to buy one thing- and really, I could have assembled the gun w/o it, but I wanted to see what the hubbub was about... ;D I will be spending money on the tube too... Can't win them all...
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Understood. I was under the impression that you didn't have the tube yet. I love me some Cothran PCP tubes!
If it was me, I'd forgo the gauge block. Check it regularly for leaks and always put it away full. Those extra ccs of air would go a long way in helping that second shot.
I don't have a choice about the gauge block- what would I do about the gaping hole in the tube? Buying a gauge delete valve defeats the point, which is to use all my spare parts up... I've only had to buy one thing- and really, I could have assembled the gun w/o it, but I wanted to see what the hubbub was about... ;D I will be spending money on the tube too... Can't win them all...
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I have a factory tube I will probably end up modifying... Or I may get a tube from Magnum airpower... Don is going through some stuff, and I don't want to add to his long list of orders... Also, If I'm going to place an order with Don, It'll be for a Powerhouse valve, new tube, rear cocking kit, and a barrel band ;)
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Well, getting a tube from Magnum Airpower is a no-go. He doesn't machine his tubes in-house, he farms the work out to a local machine shop. No biggie. There's a few options to choose from.
I did end up spending a little bit of money on this build- I feel a little silly, but I didn't know that there's a slight difference between the breech from a Crosman Steel Breech Kit, and a Discovery's breech. It's such a small difference, but it was enough for me to get a Disco breech instead of using the steel breech kit I have (which is fine, as I'm also assembling a 1322 and I want to use a steel breech on that too). It's more than I want to spend at $25, but it's cheaper than the $40+ for a Steel Breech Kit, and it's exactly what I want.
Disco breech:
(https://i.imgur.com/Y2HCoCB.jpg)
Crosman Steel Breech:
(https://i.imgur.com/UKKoEXg.jpg)
The Disco breech doesn't have the cut-out for the LPA rear sight... Like I said- it's a small difference.
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I think I learned that same lesson back when I built a 1377. I think you can piecemeal it by buying the 2300S breech.
High power, quiet, and short as possible. Quite the quandary, I've wrestled with myself. I can't say there is a magical answer. :) While I've settled with the 1701P length for pistols, Mainly to fit in a holster, have wondered about going 2" shorter.
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I think I learned that same lesson back when I built a 1377. I think you can piecemeal it by buying the 2300S breech.
High power, quiet, and short as possible. Quite the quandary, I've wrestled with myself. I can't say there is a magical answer. :) While I've settled with the 1701P length for pistols, Mainly to fit in a holster, have wondered about going 2" shorter.
I just ordered the Disco breech from Crosman. I don't need the screws or bolt/knob or that filler piece for the back. I just need the breech. As far as tube length, that's where I'm at now. I've got a few offers from various people for shortening the Disco tube- but I'm having trouble settling on a length. Do I go with 15" and just slap this pistol together? Or do I go shorter? I was thinking between 10" and 12". Not sure which. I wouldn't need too many shots in one "session"- I don't run a trap line, and it's rare that I'd need to dispatch an animal... But I like being prepared, hence the build.
Thing's that I'm thinking about:
- How much reservoir volume will I have with a 10" tube? 12" tube?
- Barrel length- It's basically 1" longer than the tube. Will a 11" barrel be enough to get 14+ fpe easily w/an unmodified Disco valve and hammer spring?
- Wouldn't a longer barrel help with keeping the sound down? i.e. would a longer barrel help the LDC do it's job?
I wonder if I'm over thinking this? I just want to strike a balance between OAL, "efficiency" (i.e. easily making 14+ fpe w/o making the gun uncomfortably heavy to cock because of too much spring tension due to compensating for a shorter barrel), and the sound level. I know it'll never be a 2240 shorty. But does it have to be a Prod length?
If I had the time and money, I'd build one of each: 10" tube, 12" tube and a 15" tube with appropriately sized barrels to match. Then, using the same LDC, test which one sounds the best, and the power generated, note the cocking effort- that sort of thing. Pick the one that best suits me and sell the others... But alas. I don't. :(
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I'm just going to go with 15" OAL on the tube and call it a day. I mean, overall- I've got some pretty good parts going into this build:
Blue Fork LDC adapter
Prod trigger
Hammer for the Prod trigger
Disco breech
(I think) a Hill TP. It's his signature blue anodize, so I assume it's from Tim Hill
I'm over-thinking this. Which leads to changes. Changes lead to more money spent. Nope. 15" tube. I'm doing it.
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I haven't done any builds that were Disco based. Tube and barrel, you are close to a Prod, and that is easy to get 16fpe for 24 shots. But different valve and pressure ranges. Seems reasonable goal though.
My 2201P is basically a Prod with 10" barrel and 1701P air tube. I tuned to same power, but lost 8 shots a fill. I only had a inch or two past the barrel in the shroud. While I tried a number of things to improve it, without adding length, but still loud. I needed the shroud for iron sights mounting to see over the top of the mag.
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My thinking is it would be easier to redrill all the mounting holes than to cut and rethread, and wait time for shipping. Also then you have a option of going with a prod valve for 3000 psi or a fortitude valve for more air volume or a hybrid. If you went that route you would also have the option of eliminating the gauge hole, and even eliminating the front trigger frame screw hole in favor of a external bracket.
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I haven't done any builds that were Disco based. Tube and barrel, you are close to a Prod, and that is easy to get 16fpe for 24 shots. But different valve and pressure ranges. Seems reasonable goal though.
My 2201P is basically a Prod with 10" barrel and 1701P air tube. I tuned to same power, but lost 8 shots a fill. I only had a inch or two past the barrel in the shroud. While I tried a number of things to improve it, without adding length, but still loud. I needed the shroud for iron sights mounting to see over the top of the mag.
Yeah, we're only dealing with 2k psi... Maybe even lower, once I'm done "tuning". Yeah, I figured a shorter barrel would be louder. No biggie. Nearly Prod length it is. ;D
My thinking is it would be easier to redrill all the mounting holes than to cut and rethread, and wait time for shipping. Also then you have a option of going with a prod valve for 3000 psi or a fortitude valve for more air volume or a hybrid. If you went that route you would also have the option of eliminating the gauge hole, and even eliminating the front trigger frame screw hole in favor of a external bracket.
My milling skills would probably butcher re-drilling and slotting the factory holes, the valve holes are critical to safety and I'll not trust my machining skills to that. Also, I'm not sure the Prod or Fortitude valves are spaced the same as a Disco valve, with regard to the respective breeches. If they're not, what you're proposing would ultimately be more work... At that point, there would be less effort if I just bought a Prod. ;D
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Main tube is going out today!
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I can't even have a simple project that uses up parts on hand! ;D ;D It's ALWAYS something with my projects! ::) ;D
- The valve screws I have apparently aren't the correct valve screws for a Disco.
- The tube I had modified is one of the bad tubes from years ago, so I can't use it.
- I don't have an o-ring for the fill adapter, and looking at the schematic I have, the fill adapter I have is different- apparently Crosman either switched from 2 o-rings to one, or they switched to one o-ring to two on the fill adapter. Either way, no o-ring... Luckily it's the same o-rings as the valve, and the dust cap.
So now I have to order a tube (that's hopefully correct), and valve screws (again, that are hopefully correct). Jeeze Louise!! So this project just got set back a few weeks. ::) Oh well, onward and upward!
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"Crisis" potentially averted! Thanks to Pelletjunkie and a few others, I have a plan of attack. I do need to get new o-rings though, since the one's I have a knackered. But I'm going to try freezing the parts (valve and gauge block) w/the o-rings on, for a few hours (or half a day), THEN trying to install them. I've done this while working on cars, but never thought to do it while working on airguns... Lame Tom. LAME. ::) ;D So the tube I have is fine- I did more reading, and I don't have a "rough ground surface" on this tube. I made sure to double check all the indicators of a bad tube, luckily this tube doesn't meet any of the criteria. So I'm going to run it. *shrug*
I'll get back to this project in a few days when all the bits get here.
Oh- as an aside, I also added 2 more screws to the breech. I don't know why, but I like the look of 3 barrel screws. They're not perfect, but it wouldn't be a "Tom Project" if they were ;D
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Dang I was ready to tell you sell the box of parts and buy a new project gun LOL, glad you are finding work arounds :)
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Dang I was ready to tell you sell the box of parts and buy a new project gun LOL, glad you are finding work arounds :)
Please no! ;D I'm trying to get the projects I have done so I can move onto other projects, like my 7mm Texan!
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Hey Tom,
Getting into this discussion a little late but I'd say modified 2260 tube for disco pins so you don't have to use the gauge block. It was about $8 last time I bought one. The holes arent that difficult to do with a drill press, (+filing sharp holes) just use your disco as a template. You could cut down the Disco and make a pinned fill end almost as easy when your lathe is up.
The PRod trigger is easy to mod with a dremel or better with a drilled hole in front of the slot then join with a dremel and file.
For 2 shots a 2240 pinned disco valve would be doable I think. I have a 2240 in mind that has a custom fill end that has a backward facing hole for a paintball tank/stock. I hand pump so that isnt one that is top priority but it would yield a lot of shots.
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Hey Tom,
Getting into this discussion a little late but I'd say modified 2260 tube for disco pins so you don't have to use the gauge block. It was about $8 last time I bought one. The holes arent that difficult to do with a drill press, (+filing sharp holes) just use your disco as a template. You could cut down the Disco and make a pinned fill end almost as easy when your lathe is up.
The PRod trigger is easy to mod with a dremel or better with a drilled hole in front of the slot then join with a dremel and file.
For 2 shots a 2240 pinned disco valve would be doable I think. I have a 2240 in mind that has a custom fill end that has a backward facing hole for a paintball tank/stock. I hand pump so that isnt one that is top priority but it would yield a lot of shots.
2260 tube has rolled stamps, and I don't really trust that w/PCP. Arguments have been made for and against using 2260 tubes for PCP, but personally, I choose not to. Also, a 2260 length tube (same length as a Prod) is a touch too long- I didn't want to shorten the barrel as well. Ultimately, I chose to shorten the Disco tube to a half inch less than a Prod tube length, or 15" OAL.
You can use a prod trigger group no problem with a Disco, as long as you get the proper hammer to go with it. Same with a Mrod trigger group- just need to use the correct hammer.
No need to pin the filler, just copy the threads and re-use the factory filler... Which is what I've done. Unless you're talking about using a different filler altogether- or not threading the end of the tube?
It would have been kinda cool to go shorter, but just in case I want to build a carbine in the future (or use my Crosman backpacker stock), I chose to go w/a longer tube. Just keeping my options open is all. Also, the longer barrel helps with keeping the noise down, in conjunction w/an LDC. Besides- once you make it short, you can't go back... But the 2260/Prod-ish length tube isn't SO long that it's unmanageable as a pistol, and it would make a pretty handy carbine w/a Mrod trigger group...
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Sounds good and well thought out. So with the rethread of the end, I've wondered about the processs. Did you ream the .774-.780 and then tap or can you ream as is? I put off getteing a tap for that because I thought I'd mess it up and create a missle.
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For something like a reservoir end cap or pretty much anything to do with pressure vessels, I feel that single point threading on the lathe is the only way to go. That's my opinion. I'm sure tapping is fine, it's simply personal preference that I prefer single point threading. Having said that, I sent my tube off to be shortened and re-threaded. My lathe skills are not great. Someday, but not in time to do this project. ;D
As far as the process, perhaps Luge007 will chime in, as he was the one that did the fantastic cut and re-thread!
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All the new o-rings are on order, as are the valve screws. I decided to go ahead and get a Disco bolt- why not, right? I'm already ordering parts and I'm using a Disco breech... *shrug*. I'm still waiting on those small grinding balls for my Dremel so I can see about grinding that edge (burr) down some. That's going to be slow going- I DO NOT want to mess up at this point. I'm nearly done!
I've found a LDC Rocker1 made for me. I screwed in the grub screws a touch, so they're below the surface of the CF and filled in the depressions with JB Weld. I then sanded the areas that I filled down smooth. I gave everything a light sanding for some tooth, and painted everything a uniform color. Then cleared it. I didn't particularly like the CF look. It should be enough to tame the 14 fpe goal of this pistol. It's also quite compact, which is nice. If it's not enough, I'm sure it'll migrate so some other project down the road.
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Not a very good picture, but here's a shot of the filled and painted Rocker1 LDC:
(https://i.imgur.com/1ztBP0i.jpg)
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Ooohhh, shucky duck! I actually got those ball grinders for my Dremel 2 days ago! I didn't check the envelope well enough. Anyhoo, I proceeded to grind down the burr inside the tube... It took me a while- about half an hour (maybe more) to get it down to a point where the gauge block and the valve go into the tube. Yes, these are the old and kinda knackered o-rings- but still good enough to act as stand-in's. Oooh yeah! I'm still waiting on the new o-rings to come in from Crosman, but when they do- this gun is finally going together! Aww yiss!!
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I have the tube all assembled, having some issues with it being really hard to cock. I'm working through it. Main tube is holding air though, so there's that. I'm going to polish the hammer and lube it up- I've clipped some coils off the hammer spring, as I have a power adjuster. I'm hoping the polish and lube will work. Also, I think something is amiss with the Prod trigger group- it's not working like it should. I'm going to take a look at that too. Overall though, it's looking pretty dang good! Not gonna lie, it's smaller than I thought. Once it's all together, it's not as ungainly as I thought it would be. I like it!
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I seem to have misplaced my barrel band ::) The one I had in the box is for a .5" O.D. barrel... I'll look for the correct barrel band tomorrow- it's around here somewhere. It's amazing what a little polishing and some moly lube can do for a hammer! She's like butter now. The trigger also had a spring out of wack, so it's all good now. I put a tiny bit of moly on the contact points in the trigger too, for good measure.
(https://i.imgur.com/XFTZckL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XpfiEPQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ChiBlKs.jpg)
Still have to put on the barrel band, and epoxy the LDC mount. But other than that, she's done. I'll run some numbers soon.
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I like that, a lol...... that is what I envisioned before you went off and built another airforce gun, lol...
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I like that, a lol...... that is what I envisioned before you went off and built another airforce gun, lol...
One day I WILL build this exact gun, but either as a .30 or .357. THAT would be an awesome pistol!!
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NOW it's done-done. I'll get to "tuning" soon!
(https://i.imgur.com/8lWX1g4.jpg)
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Now that looks just like you imagined ;D
Hmm I have a faster twist .308 barrel that I was in the process of putting on a Crosman 1400, but may change my mind and cut it in 1/2, want 1/2 ??? :P
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How were you going to machine the barrel? I have a similar (kinda) idea for a .25 pump gun (think "Millennial Pump" build): 7/8 tube, Gen 1 Mrod trigger, "Last Lever" from Mac 1, Custom made pump valve w/a plenum, 1 piece .25 barrel, like what's on a 1400...
I'll get some numbers for this gun today!
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I did 3 5-shot strings today, all were about the same. Not too much variance up or down between them.
2k psi fill, 18.1 JSB pellets
715 fps 20.5 fpe
698 19.5
692 19.2
675 18.3
662 17.6 (end @ 1.5k psi)
I could tune it down a touch for more shots closer to that 14 fpe mark, but you know what? It's a dispatch gun anyway. I'm fine with this. Plus, going from 1.5k psi up to 2k psi, my DIY mini filler tank will net me a lot of fills. No biggie. I'm going to call this project DONE!!!!
The Rocker1 LDC did quiet this gun down nicely, but the much MUCH larger Neil Clague LDC designed for 50 fpe .25 worked significantly better- so I'll use the NC for around the house. The Rocker1 will be fine out in the woods/field. The only bad part about this build is that with the larger LDC, I have to remove it to fill the gun.
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I did 3 5-shot strings today, all were about the same. Not too much variance up or down between them.
2k psi fill, 18.1 JSB pellets
715 fps 20.5 fpe
698 19.5
692 19.2
675 18.3
662 17.6 (end @ 1.5k psi)
I could tune it down a touch for more shots closer to that 14 fpe mark, but you know what? It's a dispatch gun anyway. I'm fine with this. Plus, going from 1.5k psi up to 2k psi, my DIY mini filler tank will net me a lot of fills. No biggie. I'm going to call this project DONE!!!!
The Rocker1 LDC did quiet this gun down nicely, but the much MUCH larger Neil Clague LDC designed for 50 fpe .25 worked significantly better- so I'll use the NC for around the house. The Rocker1 will be fine out in the woods/field. The only bad part about this build is that with the larger LDC, I have to remove it to fill the gun.
Right on dispatch, if they aint all down by then something needs to be addressed
LOL
Oh on the .30ish barrel I do have a friend with a professional machine shop that I visit to get tweeks done to the perfection that a dremel and drill press can not do, or are you refering to the tech details that have not crossed my mind as of yet ?
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I was just wondering how you were going to machine the chamber and such- the slots and TP are pretty straight forward, but the idea of machining the chamber weirding me out for some reason...