GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => PCP/CO2/HPA Air Gun Gates "The Darkside" => Topic started by: antithesis on January 13, 2020, 10:52:54 PM
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I'm not sure if this is the best spot for this topic or not, but that's what the mods are for😂
Anyway, of the people here intimately familiar with the Internals of a hipac unit, I would like some conjecture here.
I have always been less than thrilled with the aluminum nail and o ring that makes the check assembly. The more I looked at it, it seems as though a cut short valve stem from a disco would be a more robust, reliable, and almost purpose built alternative, and one that if it works, should last a long time. If not, then perhaps the 2240 stem minus piercing pin or Benji 392 being softer may be better. I am keeping both aside for the inevitable failure of the factory offering, it already don't seal for &^^& under 1000 psi or so.
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The aluminum nail works, though it's less than a perfect fit. The failing part for mine at least was the O-ring, which squirted part way up alongside that nail. It's just too soft to deal with pressures over about 2,500psi. I ran my HiPAC at 3,000psi for a short while, but to do that I had to make a thin 95 durometer ring to replace the butyl one. Still holding perfectly well after several years. I'm sure there's a commercial urethane ring you could find to fit. Just make sure it's reasonably firm, so it doesn't follow the air up the gap between nail and drilled hole in steel.
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They're wonderful when they work. Mine failed to hold air in a few places, including where the extension tube threaded in at each joint. But after some work I got it all settled happily. Now it's in my son's 2240 carbine, has a Lane regulator installed in it, an accurate plenum mounted pressure gauge, and holds air for months. Just took some work and invention to make it so, in my case. And Alex, before what I hear about him having a stroke, didn't help matters by being an arrogant jerk about his subcontractor's sloppy machining.
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The HiPAC's work good they do need o rings occasionally. I've got several of them and they all work good. I have noticed on my 3K one that I replace that o ring more when it hasn't been used in a while. I think the next time I put one in I'll try using a polyurethane o ring.
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The HiPAC's work good they do need o rings occasionally. I've got several of them and they all work good. I have noticed on my 3K one that I replace that o ring more when it hasn't been used in a while. I think the next time I put one in I'll try using a polyurethane o ring.
Oh yeah I went with a 90d poly ring right off the bat...I'm also experimenting with a few different valve seal materials as the hipac issue ones are no more, not to mention alot of us have had em blow. Everything from graphite gasket sheet, polyurethane sheet, and even an old sweeper belt, I personally have had no problem there yet, probably because I bored out and chamfered the inside radius I think it works better. But again I know it's only a matter of time.
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They're wonderful when they work. Mine failed to hold air in a few places, including where the extension tube threaded in at each joint. But after some work I got it all settled happily. Now it's in my son's 2240 carbine, has a Lane regulator installed in it, an accurate plenum mounted pressure gauge, and holds air for months. Just took some work and invention to make it so, in my case. And Alex, before what I hear about him having a stroke, didn't help matters by being an arrogant jerk about his subcontractor's sloppy machining.
Yeah he definitely has a bad bedside manner about prudent criticism, I personally think if he had put a hair more money into quality control he could have made considerably more on them... I don't Believe for a moment that the unit was responsible for any documented injuries that it got blamed for ( physically impossible), but there was alot of handy work, fine tuning to get mine up n running. I think however, that if the inside sealing face had been smoother, a harder and more permanent seal could have been used. And yes, with extensions I strongly recommend thread seal of some sort, even then I run a second band to cover the fact mine is a tiny bit off center from the rest of the unit.
Besides that, where did you put the gage on yours? Not to mention where you get a reg that fit?
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The gauge is installed on the left side of the main tube of the 2240 about midway between the valve and the threaded end. I made an aluminum gauge block with O-rings, drilled through the main tube and this gauge block and tapped tapered threads unto it for the gauge. Unfortunately that leaked, so I ended up having to use JB Weld steel filled epoxy on the threads, waxing the gauge threads and installing it and letting it cure. Hasn't leaked since. Been a couple of years at least, can't remember exactly.
The regulator is a Robert Lane model for CO2/HPA conversions. It was too large, so I turned it down very slightly in my lathe until it was an easy fit into the extension tube of the HiPAC. It's adjusted to 80bar, suitable for the low power the carbine is set up to shoot with.
(http://www.luthier.ca/other/forum/2240/Lane_regulator.jpg)
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The gauge is installed on the left side of the main tube of the 2240 about midway between the valve and the threaded end. I made an aluminum gauge block with O-rings, drilled through the main tube and this gauge block and tapped tapered threads unto it for the gauge. Unfortunately that leaked, so I ended up having to use JB Weld steel filled epoxy on the threads, waxing the gauge threads and installing it and letting it cure. Hasn't leaked since. Been a couple of years at least, can't remember exactly.
The regulator is a Robert Lane model for CO2/HPA conversions. It was too large, so I turned it down very slightly in my lathe until it was an easy fit into the extension tube of the HiPAC. It's adjusted to 80bar, suitable for the low power the carbine is set up to shoot with.
(http://www.luthier.ca/other/forum/2240/Lane_regulator.jpg)
Wait, does the gauge tap into the hipac, or does the block mate between the hipac and gauge?
The tube of the gun isn't somehow pressurized is it?
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Reads like the tube is pressurized....may be taking it wrong, but the dimentions make me wonder. A little more information would help.
Would have had to make a skinny gauge block to fit in the rear section then drill though both the Crosman tube and the HiPac tube to get to that block.
Believe this was a 2250 version...but as they (mostly) used the same front section,could calculate volume by the change in the rear (skinny) sections length. It's not much volume,and folks wanted extentions to increase it...but I never had that urge to complicate the system.
(https://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t50/ribbonstone/HiPaC/ebb6fb14-7050-47af-88ad-dca5c6a73ab2.jpg) (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/ribbonstone/media/HiPaC/ebb6fb14-7050-47af-88ad-dca5c6a73ab2.jpg.html)
In that infamous vid. of a guy miss-using one and putting a hole in his leg, the video evidence is that he was using just part of a HiPac unit and pressurizsing the tube (besides working on a PCP that was pressurized at the time).
Not pointing fingers...we all tend to mod things in ways we see fit. Sometimes it bites us.
Yeah...the check valve looks rinky-dink. It actually works,although the giant azz spring used to power the check valve makes you wonder.
Still keep 3 running (the old 2240 version didn't make the picture). Still working, sill useful little rifles....and after spending the time (and $) getting them set up and stocked,just haven't the heart to not keep them running.
But I do use the HiPac as it was intended to be used.
(https://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t50/ribbonstone/HiPaC/6cec599a-b9ab-4f63-bf44-a82081860661.jpg) (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/ribbonstone/media/HiPaC/6cec599a-b9ab-4f63-bf44-a82081860661.jpg.html)
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I was hoping you would show up RS...you usually do on the hipac discussions.
That was my thought, I worry about you guys and it sounds an awful lot like the tube is under pressure here. I don't trust the threads under that kind of stress. .it's your gun and do as you like but I'd make sure both the valve AND hipac are pinned or else you may end up with a valve or hipac unit in your leg😮
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Using a HiPac, the tube is under zero pressure. And as RSterne has explained, the pressure exerted through the small opening in the valve/HiPac port is very small. Mine has been holding 2000psi for over a month with no problems. With an 18" Crosman barrel, Disco TP and SSG, I get about 25 shots at 21 fpe. with 18.1 JSBs. VERY accurate, equal to my 14" LW with more power.
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Using a HiPac, the tube is under zero pressure. And as RSterne has explained, the pressure exerted through the small opening in the valve/HiPac port is very small. Mine has been holding 2000psi for over a month with no problems. With an 18" Crosman barrel, Disco TP and SSG, I get about 25 shots at 21 fpe. with 18.1 JSBs. VERY accurate, equal to my 14" LW with more power.
When used as intended yes you're right, but the way he described his mods it sounds like he is only using the front or otherwise modded it so the tube is pressurized
I charge mine to 3.5 k without issue. I don't recommend that but I am well aware that if something fails it won't be my valve screws, threads or main tube
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Geez guys... talk about getting your panties in a bunch. Okay, so I was brief in my comments about the gauge and regulator, but that's because last year sometime I made the unforgivable error of having a VPN active when visiting GTA, and for reasons the host can not figure out, this resulted in a permanent ban of my PC. Posting lengthy comments from my phone via LTE connection is all I have left, and it's tedious. But I'll try...
Here's a picture of my son's (cutely painted sparkle blue, per his request several years ago) 2240 carbine with HiPAC, single extension tube, and gauge installed.
(http://www.luthier.ca/other/forum/2240/gauge.jpg)
- The gauge block is indeed rather small, allowing for just a 1/4" hole through it for passage of air through the plenum volume. And yes, the hole was drilled through the Crosman tube, through the HiPAC, and through to the vent hole in the aluminum gauge block, which I drilled offset substantially so as to allow deeper threading into the block. As 2240 HPA conversions go this still leaves plenty of air at the desired ~850psi in the plenum. You'll note the gauge reads a bit below 800psi - that's because he hasn't shot it since October, and he shot it down to about that level before we left the informal HFT gathering. Thing gets about 25 good shots per fill.
- The whole of smaller portion of the HiPAC acts as the regulated pressure vessel, or plenum volume, minus the roughly 2cc for the gauge block.
- As I've written long ago in HiPAC threads, the nipple at the end of the HiPAC presses against a stepped seal made of Ertalyte mounted in the modified tip of the brass valve, as supplied HiPAC seals just squirted out above 2,200psi.
- The pressure in the Crosman tube is atmospheric. That's because I seal my pressure vessels properly. The front grip mounting bolt is drilled to 1/16" in the bottom of it's Allen socket, all the way through, as an emergency purge vent which in the event of a leak would spew air straight down, at worst endangering the left hand of the shooter with a bit of cold air.
- The valve has been pinned in 5 places, very strongly, in addition to a 1/8" aluminum disc with two more smaller bolts behind the valve which I installed both for additional safety (this is MY SON I'm talking about here!) and as a valve opening limiter, with an O-ring behind that (bstaley) for additional limiting. This valve is never going anywhere. It's a permanent built, at least as far as the valve is concerned. If it ever fails (unlikely - silicone grease on the urethane valve body O-ring, custom delrin poppet on a drill rod, everything as tweaked as can be) we'll just toss the thing and I'll get him a new PCP. It was a fun adventure building this thing in all sorts of ways besides its final form, but this is it's FINAL form.
- The HiPAC worried me during the whole scare about these things, but by dumb luck I got one with an exceptionally thick wall at the part where people worry they've been cut too thin. Mine is over-built, so no complaints there. Still, I mounted a strong barrel band and have it firmly clamped at the front of the HiPAC, as I wouldn't want him dropping the thing and bending it off, releasing pressure suddenly. The barrel should add enough strength to prevent that.
- The textured stuff is just some rubber over cloth material glued on as a foregrip.
I can't think of anything else to assauge the sky is falling sorts of worries going on here. But ask away if you can come up with more concerns. Believe me though when I say that since initially experiencing a bit of a mini disaster of my own with this HiPAC owing to the first valve face seal venting and pressurizing the main tube, making for a very, VERY frightening and slow disassembly involving a bench vise and eye and ear protection and standing to one side... all my subsequent efforts with the little monster were made with extraordinary caution in mind and in practice. If I weren't such a stubborn cuss I'd have just tossed the thing and moved on, but I made it work.
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Lol it's ok buddy, just a matter of sheer intrigue, really couldn't picture it without elaboration, a pressurized tube sounded most likely..thanks for clarifying, and that sounds like a machining nightmare to get right, my hats off to you sir.
My response was primarily to mobilehomer, to make clear that I understood how the seal surface area makes the hipac much easier to secure than tube fill...
And YOU are the ertalyte guy! Ok, didn't you say at some point you tried delrin and it boiled or outgassed or something? I'm testing different seal material since Alex is down for the count and not everyone can make their own seals, I'd like to make a reliable, user friendly solution to make available to the average hipac owner
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Yeah, guilty as charged. Ertalyte being a trade name for some fancy hard plastic with low friction and extremely low distortion under a lot of pressure. I bought a rod of it for something else but it seemed the next obvious thing to try after the delrin distorted weirdly and started leaking. Others have had good luck with delrin there, but even though I'd polished the tip of the HiPAC thoroughly it leaked after a while. Last time I looked at the Ertalyte it looked like it was fresh off the lathe. Zero distortion. Of course that requires perfect mating surfaces, but I'm pretty good with those. Being fussy about details makes for good quality repairs to violin family instruments, among other things. Also makes me somewhat annoying to deal with at times.
I suspect even brass might work, or copper maybe. Of course the harder the material, the harder you need to screw in the HiPAC to get a good seal. So maybe Ertalyte is a good balance.
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Yeah, guilty as charged. Ertalyte being a trade name for some fancy hard plastic with low friction and extremely low distortion under a lot of pressure. I bought a rod of it for something else but it seemed the next obvious thing to try after the delrin distorted weirdly and started leaking. Others have had good luck with delrin there, but even though I'd polished the tip of the HiPAC thoroughly it leaked after a while. Last time I looked at the Ertalyte it looked like it was fresh off the lathe. Zero distortion. Of course that requires perfect mating surfaces, but I'm pretty good with those. Being fussy about details makes for good quality repairs to violin family instruments, among other things. Also makes me somewhat annoying to deal with at times.
I suspect even brass might work, or copper maybe. Of course the harder the material, the harder you need to screw in the HiPAC to get a good seal. So maybe Ertalyte is a good balance.
I was considering lead myself, and I have flexible graphite sheet, but I'm examining elastomers first, and for that I got a few sheets of 95 duro urethane sheet 2mm thick
I wanted to try filled or expanded ptfe but man it's expensive
One other avenue I'm examining is a softer elastomer, and a piece of tube flared on both sides, like a grommet, so the pressure primarily affects the metal while the softer material picks up the sealing slack...not sure about that yet though.
Funny how I started this thread examining the check seal and now we made it to discussing the opposite end😆
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It's all more or less the same thing, seals. And the sloppy tolerances and in places poor design have made the HiPAC into a significant tinkering hobby all by itself for some. I'm glad to see the SafePac crop up though. The finish looks rough, which might indicate internal work not being tidy either, but the self contained nature of the thing is neat, especially that it doesn't have to rely on a face pressure seal at the valve. I like the built in gauge too. Unlike some, I don't worry about front mounted gauges. Guns don't magically point themselves right at your eye, and a 45° angle should be more than sufficient to check pressure. That's why some manufacturers of Olympic level air pistols put the gauge on the front of the cylinder.
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Safepac, huh? I was unaware, but saw something similar being made overseas, is somebody mass producing them?
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Someone here mentioned them the other day. First I'd heard of them as well. Only place I know to get them is eBay, from the maker apparently:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/crosman-2240-pcp-conversion-carbon-fiber-inlay-/184116091990?nav=SEARCH (https://www.ebay.com/itm/crosman-2240-pcp-conversion-carbon-fiber-inlay-/184116091990?nav=SEARCH)
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Safepac, huh? I was unaware, but saw something similar being made overseas, is somebody mass producing them?
Froggy on ebay is making them.
It's all more or less the same thing, seals. And the sloppy tolerances and in places poor design have made the HiPAC into a significant tinkering hobby all by itself for some.
That really is the only issue with the hipac, tolerances, be it size in the tube/wall thickness/threads and seals. Plus possible valve poppet damage depending on use and what level of quality the material really is.
As far as guage placement on the safepac, i also like it on the front but the fill valve is ugly..... if it was a removable probe id possibly buy one for (maybe) my next 2240.
While I don't mind pinning, this looks worth looking into
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I suppose you could remove the fill nipple, drill for a full probe of common make, and thereby clean up the front end. I think he's using the exposed nipple to make it more universal for filling, but a simple adapter on a pump hose can use a fill probe from one of the big manufacturers like Hatsan or something.
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Oh, and it strikes me that the potential for leaking pressure into the main tube exists with the SafePac, but only at the threaded valve connection. I guess that'd result in a cold main tube and air pushing out wherever it could. Probably not so much a risk as a fright over nothing when it happens, as in exiting via trigger area etc it probably wouldn't have so much force to do harm.
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I suppose you could remove the fill nipple, drill for a full probe of common make, and thereby clean up the front end. I think he's using the exposed nipple to make it more universal for filling, but a simple adapter on a pump hose can use a fill probe from one of the big manufacturers like Hatsan or something.
This should theoretically also be more efficient, keeping a higher average pressure during the shot cycle, that's why I ported mine as well as the valve inlet both to .170, it's bigger than my transfer port so hypothetically it should show an increase in the efficiency, allowing air in as fast as it goes out
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Not following on the efficiency thing. Besides my typo - full when I meant fill - I'm talking about the front end fill nipple, the foster thing. That's just for filling, not involved during shooting.
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Not following on the efficiency thing. Besides my typo - full when I meant fill - I'm talking about the front end fill nipple, the foster thing. That's just for filling, not involved during shooting.
Oh I know, I'm just stating what should be an advantage over the hipac, it should be more efficient due to the fact there is no restrictions between the valve body and air supply, like a tube filled pcp
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Oh of course. My bad for misunderstanding. Indeed the air flow as the shot is released should be well supported. I'd want to stick a regulator in there though, with at least 20cc of plenum volume. Better efficiency is possible that way, and adding in a well tuned SSG you can achieve very nice numbers.
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Like other co2 designs, could drill a large hole in the Crosman tube...HiPac or SelfPac wouldn't care, but would cure the possibility of pressurizing the co2 tube.
OK...good job on the gauge install.
Never had the urge to change the fill nipple system,guess you could. The base of the existing nipple system may be thick enough to be tapped (didn't measure it...but am thinking it is) after cutting off the stem.
Selfpac would be much better at making power (so far as I can see without holding one in my hands),and power seems to be one of the main goals for folks thinking of modding a co2 to air.
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Alex is getting back into slow production (still recovering from stroke).
Will start back with the 2240s.
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Alex is getting back into slow production (still recovering from stroke).
Will start back with the 2240s.
Wow I guess he's doing a little better....I ain't been over at the hipac group in awhile I didn't think it'd happen honestly
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Congrats on all of you who got hipacs that actually were able to get them to seal up. I bought two 2240 units with 2 extensions each and never could bet them to seal even after some maching of the surface for the o rings in the extensions and trying sealing compounds. After months of trying I finally just gave up and took my losses.
I contacted Alex and was informed that his product had no issues and it must have been all my fault. I am sorry to hear he had a stoke but he will never get my money again.
BD
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Yeah, that matches with the attitude Alex offered me when I commented on the leaks. He alleged that nobody else had problems, and that if I REALLY had a defective unit I should have returned it. I wasn't asking for a refund nor a replacement, I was sharing my experience in hopes it may benefit others in troubleshooting their leaky HiPACs. He continued in attack mode via email then in his private forum. The man has issues.
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His new site is up today....nothing stocked onsite yet. But it's a start. : https://hpa-hipac.com/
Guessing it will be updated in the coming days/weeks.
I had leaks when I got mine as others have also.
I emailed and got a not so friendly response.
Wasnt over the top, but wasn't what I expected after I paid for an item from him.
We got over that in the correspondence....and I resolved my leaks trying other orings.
Yes, he is not the most friendly. But some people just aren't. If you have a use for the product....well there isn't a whole lot of other choices out there (unless disco tube or a drop/reg bottle setup etc).
(https://i.imgur.com/TrAbTEi.jpg)
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Here are some pics of the issues I had after I had a couple aluminum tubed setups made by a friend at 16 and 14" in length. The steel 2240 insert end broke at the thread root where it screws into either the fill tube or an extension. He initially made just the tubes and used a disco fill assembly but when he assembled the units and checked runout in the lathe with a live center and chuck there was some runout so he tried to apply some light pressure to reduce runout of aluminum tube portion. So he made me two new aluminum 2240 inserts as well. The thickness of the metal where it broke was .050" thick so not safe at all IMO.
I would strongly suggest that a barrel band be used on every extension or fill tube to prevent a flying projectile in the event of a failure. 3000 psi fills are just asking for a disaster to occur IMO.
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I have never filled mine past 1500......I'm a little nervous about it even then.
I have plenty of pcps for normal 3K fills.
That carbine has limited days....think it's going to built into a 1740 with some nice grips soon (and trade-off the hipac).
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Slithering out from under my HiPac rock.....
Pleased Alex is doing better and is on his way to getting back on his feet.
Some things just don't have your name written on it,even if others like them. I had that run with R-7 (springers), never getting a "keeper" in 3 trys....would have been ahead to just recognize that it wasn't my fate after the 2nd try.
Yeah...he was a bit opinionated....probably still is. So am I.
LIKELY why I'm not his favorite person:
1. Did call him on it in posts. Did ship out some "turds",most of which were 2nd-person turds.
Firmly believe it was just him and a "tame"machinest,and he chnged machinest at some point (the "$)((# point"). Hopefully changed yet again.
2.(Not my fault)just when he was starting up the QB conversion tube, "they"changed the QB end caps...which created a "ship load"of confusion.
3.(Also not my fault): the "hole though the leg"video from a miss-used/ unauthorized application of a HiPAc.
Am thinking your problem was either fate (like my R7 experiences) or #1 above. Problem being, Alex would likely not be real receptive to that at some points....likely more receptive to that "$)((#" idea later(like me, we may be hardheaded,but if you beat on us long enough, we learn).
I did learn he did test the prototype units a sealed vessels. As sold, they are NOT sealed vessels, and the rules / regulations of sealed vessels don't apply.
Actually looks simpler to do that it is,and I did have a real fight getting the first one (.177/2240) to actually act like a PCP.
So don't take offence,,,just going to do a run down on the HiPAc uunits.
Doen't help that I had less trouble...just random selection.
1. Within the limits of marketing (selling them) he could have made the process seem simpler than it really is.
2. Better to think of it as a total restart....forget what you know about the co2 function, reboot. It's a "shop load"easier to tune an existing PCP than convert a co2 to PCP.
3. HPA (bottle) conversions are actually easier; regulated they don't run at that much higher pressure.
4. No such thing as "too strong" valve fixation. Whiloe that was adresseed,the importance of that maybe wasn't stressed as much as I would have liked more likely it gets ignored as the info at the time was pretty clear). (Basically it's an open ended, insert, PCP tube with a compression seal to the valve body
5.At the end(well...as he'sback in the game,lets call it the "break")..were shipped with one striker spring,and that one was the super strong spring.Likely acknoledgement that most of the buyer were looking for big-time energy increase,but it was the hardest to get working right spring.
6. Getting the right spring tension to run well on air within the short spring-space of 22XX guns is not as easy a balance as you'd first think. Shorter the spring, the more differnce small changes make.
7. Under-reported,but it make a great co2 bulk fill system...in that role,it was close to "plug and play".
Do wish Alex luck with this re-entry.... also hopes he up-dates/revises both the units and the insructions.
FOUND an old photo-file.
2 Pistols (2250 and a .177/2240):
(https://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t50/ribbonstone/HiPaC/281f1c8f-8c57-40eb-8249-4f0627fccdce.jpg) (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/ribbonstone/media/HiPaC/281f1c8f-8c57-40eb-8249-4f0627fccdce.jpg.html)
Of the two,the 2250 got used up in other projects (the ""Crosman Lego Effect") as I actually bought PCP's. The little .177/2240 still in use.
5 long guns:
(https://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t50/ribbonstone/HiPaC/a995ff35-2e4e-4b78-91cc-abfcba8a080f.jpg) (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/ribbonstone/media/HiPaC/a995ff35-2e4e-4b78-91cc-abfcba8a080f.jpg.html)
LEft to right: First 2 fell victom to the Crosman Lego Effect". Only the 3rd and 4th are still being used by me as HiPAcs. "Beater" #4 was a prize for a really good guess to a question here on the boards and might be running on co2 or on the HiPAc tube...up to the new owner.
So even as a fan.....most of them didn't stay HipAc. Some got convberted to partsw.some to PCP tubes,and some back to 12gr. co2.
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The suspision,now that repeater PCP's are inexpnwsive, is that the maket has changed....will see if his offerings changed along with it.
Other useful stuff from Alex:
A near doubling of the valve volume in a 12gr. co2 valve. Were some problems with the orginal valve stem seal...but as a hi-pac (or12gr. co2) gas flow limits the actual shot to the volume inside the valve,doubling the volume certainlky made making more power easy.
(https://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t50/ribbonstone/HiPaC/d24a7382-c51f-4ff5-b301-13e7fb5cc2e3.jpg) (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/ribbonstone/media/HiPaC/d24a7382-c51f-4ff5-b301-13e7fb5cc2e3.jpg.html)
An adapatable LDC. Threaded all the way though with threaded baffles, made chamber size variable...and a "clean"looking unit on Crosmans.
(https://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t50/ribbonstone/HiPaC/f8369d50-adcf-4ed2-9de5-bc40c9d3bc04.jpg) (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/ribbonstone/media/HiPaC/f8369d50-adcf-4ed2-9de5-bc40c9d3bc04.jpg.html)
(https://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t50/ribbonstone/HiPaC/0d158beb-a4e6-4ec3-8b6c-23d5d086fd44.jpg) (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/ribbonstone/media/HiPaC/0d158beb-a4e6-4ec3-8b6c-23d5d086fd44.jpg.html)
Still use this basic/home brew version of a spring travel limiter/ anti bounce device on the 2260,even though there are nicer ones on the market:
(https://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t50/ribbonstone/HiPaC/2e82b5a2-6318-4d40-96f1-f883871e9713.jpg) (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/ribbonstone/media/HiPaC/2e82b5a2-6318-4d40-96f1-f883871e9713.jpg.html)
Anyway....I'll slither back under my rock now.
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All's good and I believe I just got a bad run of inferior machined parts but overall design of o ring sealing surfaces were not well thought out as compared to any other joint sealed by o rings in that there has to be two flat surfaces in contact with opposites side of an o ring whether on a vertical or horizontal plane to affect a proper seal. The parts I received did not have any two opposite surfaces with a flat surface to capture the o rings and create a good seal. The threads of each part went all the way to the end of tubes so when threading together the o rings would be squeezed up and out between the two parts. No amount of sealer or different o ring sizes was going to fix that Issue.
Been fixing fluid vessels for enough years to know the design had no merit or chance of ever sealing short of welding together which was actually tried but the metal was not of sufficient quality to even weld adequately.
So I will say again use at your own risk as my opinion is unsafe at any pressure.
BD
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RS,
I actually still have that picture saved somewhere....it's good as a centerfold to me and my crosman erector set addiction 😆