GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => PCP/CO2/HPA Air Gun Gates "The Darkside" => Topic started by: Atom on November 16, 2019, 06:37:34 AM
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When cocking gun feel it scratch. I polished the hammer and lubricated but the problem did not go away, they arose again traces scratching on hammer. How to polish properly that space and not to be affected internal dimensions of the cylinder?
I made a tool for honing and I have a sandpaper with sponge. What granulations to start and how long. I do not want to expand the inner dimension of the cylinder.
Thanks
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When I polish the inside of the tube where the hammer slides, I use a 12 gauge shotgun brush wrapped with 000 steel wool. I polish it until it shines and then brush it and the hammer edges with a dry lubricant like Molybdenum Disulfide. Before I polish the inside of the tube, I take a fine file and remove any burrs from the inside edges of any openings to ensure nothing is sticking in to cause scratches or damage o-rings if you need to slide anything past that openings. If you are going to use sandpaper I would use 1000 grit or finer and not go any longer than it takes to bring out a shine. Sand paper will remove more metal faster than the steel wool will, so take it slow.
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I use 1000+ of finer as posted if burrs are present. If not, I use a small oak dowel rod with a slot in the end with ultra fine Crocus cloth by norton or 3m on it. APX 2000 grit.
JSAR has a tutorial in it on their vid's listed on their site. ;)
Knife
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I use 1000+ of finer as posted if burrs are present. If not, I use a small oak dowel rod with a slot in the end with ultra fine Crocus cloth by norton or 3m on it. APX 2000 grit.
JSAR has a tutorial in it on their vid's listed on their site. ;)
Some like th F-I-R-T-H system first shown here on the forum. I just did one for one of our members. It imbeds nylon or teflon buttons in the hammer to glide on. Works wonders!
Knife
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Here is one I did for Chris. ;)
www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=164159.0 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=164159.0)
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I use 1000+ of finer as posted if burrs are present. If not, I use a small oak dowel rod with a slot in the end with ultra fine Crocus cloth by norton or 3m on it. APX 2000 grit.
JSAR has a tutorial in it on their vid's listed on their site. ;)
Knife
Yes Knife, but this is terrible roughly and steel is very hard.
By the way, please answer this question for me https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=164896.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=164896.0)
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I'm a retired Knifemaker. Hard steel is my world. LOL!
I did answer the question in your thread. Long time ago. It's there. LOL
Another way to find the twist is to call Nick. He has been working with FX for the slug in their liners. It is match made in heaven.
Here is what they have come up with, along with Matt Dubbers testing.
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When I polish the inside of the tube where the hammer slides, I use a 12 gauge shotgun brush wrapped with 000 steel wool. I polish it until it shines and then brush it and the hammer edges with a dry lubricant like Molybdenum Disulfide. Before I polish the inside of the tube, I take a fine file and remove any burrs from the inside edges of any openings to ensure nothing is sticking in to cause scratches or damage o-rings if you need to slide anything past that openings. If you are going to use sandpaper I would use 1000 grit or finer and not go any longer than it takes to bring out a shine. Sand paper will remove more metal faster than the steel wool will, so take it slow.
What do you think about fine graphite powder?
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When I polish the inside of the tube where the hammer slides, I use a 12 gauge shotgun brush wrapped with 000 steel wool. I polish it until it shines and then brush it and the hammer edges with a dry lubricant like Molybdenum Disulfide. Before I polish the inside of the tube, I take a fine file and remove any burrs from the inside edges of any openings to ensure nothing is sticking in to cause scratches or damage o-rings if you need to slide anything past that openings. If you are going to use sandpaper I would use 1000 grit or finer and not go any longer than it takes to bring out a shine. Sand paper will remove more metal faster than the steel wool will, so take it slow.
What do you think about fine graphite powder?
Works well in a steel tube and hammer. Doesn't attract grit in the action.
Not so good in ;) an alu. mono block as graphite is corrosive to alu.
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I'm a retired Knifemaker. Hard steel is my world. LOL!
LOL ;D LOL
My question was
"Hvala nož za informacije.
Imam SPA pr900w 5,5 mm (.22) 85J + (62+ fpe). Teško je uvesti kalupe NOE u EU (Europu). Znam da imate iskustva s MP Molds iz Slovenije, što mislite o njima, a to je min. brzina za preciznost, koja brzina okretanja? Mislim da SPA bačve nemaju prigušnicu i tko MP kalup preporučuje 5,52 mm ili 5,55 mm?"
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I use a 1in ball hone in fine grit [320] in the parts washer, with a cordless drill using forward and reverse to debur all edges, very smooth surface. All in under 1min. cave
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The ball hone is what Travis at JSAR suggest for the tube.
Most of the hammers have a very hard surface, but very soft underneath the very thin layer of hardened surface. Have to ver very careful and not really remove anything. Exactly why I like the FIRTH system. It requires no metal to be removed rather than general deburring.
I am using the MP's in .25 but have not used them in .22. He wrongly list the size of the .25, so I have no id4ea of the actual as cast size in .22.My PP 700 likes the .216 best in the barrel. This is however a nOE mole that I decked to throw a lighe slug.
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Wow, I'm really tired. I just read my post above.Looks like a first grader wrote it. :-[ ;D
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Exactly why I like the FIRTH system.
What is it "FIRTH system"?
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The job is done, hammer per dry cylinder slips as if it lubricate. Start with 1200 -1800- end 2500 .
Alert! Gun is SPA PR900w and they who have SPA platforms like this can have pin in cylinder over which the hammer passes, it should be removed !
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Most of the hammers have a very hard surface, but very soft underneath the very thin layer of hardened surface. Have to ver very careful and not really remove anything.
It's me removed thin layer with hammer :-[ how can i do it harden again :'(
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Here is one I did for Chris. ;)
www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=164159.0 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=164159.0)
He did an amazing job. I haven't had a chance to run a full string, but the gun sounds more efficient.
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The firth system uses nylon or teflon buttons imbedded in the hammer in front and rear. they are then what actually touches the tube wall. Does away with galling, and greatly reduces friction.
You can see them in the Pic I posted on this thread. ;)
Knife
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For a real rough hammer surface replace it, if moderately rough polish and burnish in some Moly powder and call it good enough IMO less contact surface with smooth contact points and passage.
I wonder if something like JB weld could be used to resurface a rough hammer or tube ???
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For a real rough hammer surface replace it, if moderately rough polish and burnish in some Moly powder and call it good enough IMO less contact surface with smooth contact points and passage.
I wonder if something like JB weld could be used to resurface a rough hammer or tube ???
No Sir. JB weld has fine metal shavings in it for strength. It is very abrasive.
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I heard about it called "buttoning" https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=104923.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=104923.0)