GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Daisy Airguns => Topic started by: mr007s on August 28, 2019, 02:28:52 PM
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This 880 was acquired in March of this year. It has been shot a good bit since then and I have been watching videos and reading post on how to disassemble and reseal, and do a couple mods.
My first impression had been this gun had not been into, that it was stock. All screws were not scratched or fouled and all looked to be in great condition.
I took it apart today and checked over the barrel, gave it a good cleaning. To my surprise the tape mod had been done but with duct tape but it was in bad shape. Also, the shroud has rifled barrel stamped on it but I see no rifling after cleaning. Several pellets were pushed thru and no marks were made on them and very little resistance was felt .
Question: Has the barrel been swapped it the past or have BB's removed the lands?
Are barrels still available for the older all metal 880?
I contacted Daisy for parts diagram, parts list and price sheet. Received reply that parts for the older guns had been all sold to Gun Smiths and got a list of four to contact. Baker Air was one and also T-Mac.
Who do you guys use when needing these older parts?
The barrel is troubling to me. If I cant find a rifled barrel that is a drop in fit I may not even put it back together.
Thanks for any and all replys.
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The shrouds interchange from 1972 to the present, plus they're still available from Daisy, so there's a chance the shroud doesn't match the gun it's on. Or the barrel may not match the rest of the gun. Unfortunately if the shroud's originality cannot be trusted, with the exception of the very early guns and the plastic receiver guns there's no easy way to tell whether the gun came with a smoothbore or rifled barrel. Some VBs were stamped with a date but that's not across the board.
Shooting BBs will not remove the rifling. It is very fine, shallow rifling- think 'microgroove'- but it'll still be there after shooting BBs for many years. The current production barrels are a press fit but they can be removed from the VB. The problem with using them is they are a little shorter and they lack the TP hole and the groove made to locate the barrel to VB. I've never used a new barrel in an old style gun but it looks like the length wouldn't be an issue because there's enough engagement with the front sight/barrel plug. But the other machining ops would need to be done. The new barrel/trigger group/VB assemblies are $12 from Daisy. The trigger group is also still available along with a few other odds and ends that still fit the older guns. Barring that, the GTA classifieds, ebay, GB or AA classifieds are where I would look for parts or a parts gun.
Just a suggestion, but why not reassemble the gun so you can use it and then if you happen across a rifled barrel you can swap it in.
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Thank you Mark. My barrel does remove from the valve body and has a .157" wide by .035" deep notch for locating and clamping in place. It is completly smooth but shoots targets at 10 meters very accurately. Once I get the proper reseal kit with cups, rings and such I probably will put it together.
I wonder if I should replace the entire valve body? It shoots good up to 8 pumps. If I pump 10 times the report sounds funny, kind of a swooshing sound and fps is off. Not sure where the problems for that.
I did a tissue test by covering the load port and get blow back there.
Will the new style with the o-ring work with the metal receivers?
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Take a look at Stony's "Most Asked Questions" up top and you'll read he bought one he thought was a smooth bore... but the rifling was plugged up with Copper,and green. A thorough cleaning "might" get you some rifling...
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Take a look at Stony's "Most Asked Questions" up top and you'll read he bought one he thought was a smooth bore... but the rifling was plugged up with Copper,and green. A thorough cleaning "might" get you some rifling...
I cleaned it pretty good and it only had black oil looking patches , no green or copper. It shines like chrome now but not the faintest hint of rifling.
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The new guts will fit the old metal receiver with some work. How much work depends on how old the receiver is. In my experience, metal receivers with the big rear stock screw on the RH side and the loading port open on both sides are easiest, next are the RH screw with RH only loading opening. They still will need some clearancing, like for the new type O-ringed bolt probe. The new bolt has to be used with the new style VB/trigger/barrel assembly, else you will get a ton of blow-by.
Some links that will help you decide:
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=117762.msg1133061#msg1133061 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=117762.msg1133061#msg1133061)
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=80257.msg765366#msg765366 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=80257.msg765366#msg765366)
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=157196.msg155739509#msg155739509 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=157196.msg155739509#msg155739509)
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Good info, thank you. I spoke with Tony from T-Mac by phone today, live 3 miles from him. He has repair parts for 880 in his shop and I am to meet him Friday. Hope he has what I need.
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Dang, how convenient is THAT! The cup seals are the buggers, everything else is reasonable.
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YEP! The cup seals are what I really hope he has, and a valve assembly.
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That and a couple O-rings and it should shoot like new.
FWIW, I found a way to rebuild the old screw in exhaust valve. Daisy sells the O-rings and the little "C" clip retainer so all I do is reface the valve tip and touch up the seat if needed, replace the rings and so far that's worked for me. But simply replacing with a new valve sure is the expedient way!
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JG Airguns has a pretty good selection of 880 parts. You can start on this page: https://www.jgairguns.biz/catalog/index.php?cPath=78_186_197&sort=2a&page=1 (https://www.jgairguns.biz/catalog/index.php?cPath=78_186_197&sort=2a&page=1)
Page four has the seal kits. There is a pretty good description of what year the kits fit once you click on the item. Page 4 here: https://www.jgairguns.biz/catalog/index.php?cPath=78_186_197&sort=2a&page=4 (https://www.jgairguns.biz/catalog/index.php?cPath=78_186_197&sort=2a&page=4)
I buy most of my 880 parts from JG, but here is another parts vendor (I have not purchased from him). https://www.daisy880.net/?page_id=6 (https://www.daisy880.net/?page_id=6)
HTH :D
Dennis
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That and a couple O-rings and it should shoot like new.
FWIW, I found a way to rebuild the old screw in exhaust valve. Daisy sells the O-rings and the little "C" clip retainer so all I do is reface the valve tip and touch up the seat if needed, replace the rings and so far that's worked for me. But simply replacing with a new valve sure is the expedient way!
Is there a special tool or trick for removing the clip and being able to reuse it?
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Thanks for the links Dennis. I am checking them out tonight.
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That and a couple O-rings and it should shoot like new.
FWIW, I found a way to rebuild the old screw in exhaust valve. Daisy sells the O-rings and the little "C" clip retainer so all I do is reface the valve tip and touch up the seat if needed, replace the rings and so far that's worked for me. But simply replacing with a new valve sure is the expedient way!
Is there a special tool or trick for removing the clip and being able to reuse it?
I carefully use a pair of needle nose and put one jaw against the stem and the other at the split to get them off. I go over the top, the poor drawing tries to show this. Same thing to reinstall but put the jaw opposite the split. They can go flying so be careful. I used to do operations like that and safety ball/spring installation inside a big-A ziplock to catch flying parts.
Now this can roughen up the end of the stem. If that happens carefully dress the raised areas and polish with some 600 grip wet or dry paper and it'll be fine. But do this before you pull the stem through the valve body so it doesn't get scored.
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Kinda like this Mark?
Sorry for the blurries ???
OFF
(https://i.postimg.cc/jt4xsBRq/20190828-190756.jpg)
ON
(https://i.postimg.cc/7qtK0YqB/20190828-190831.jpg)
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FWIW if you can find a barrel for a model 881 it is rifled and should swap right onto your 880 VB.
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/Daisy-Powerline-880-7880-177-Rifled-Barrel-Trigger-Part-BB-Pellet-Air-Rifle-881/111354973387?epid=0&hash=item19ed460ccb:g:2IUAAOSwa6Zbq7xz (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Daisy-Powerline-880-7880-177-Rifled-Barrel-Trigger-Part-BB-Pellet-Air-Rifle-881/111354973387?epid=0&hash=item19ed460ccb:g:2IUAAOSwa6Zbq7xz)
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I don't know for sure if that above link will fit your gun.
Perhaps someone else can tell.
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Kinda like this Mark?
Sorry for the blurries ???
OFF
Yes, that's the idea. Might use masking tape on the side that will contact the stem, just for insurance.
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I don't know for sure if that above link will fit your gun.
Perhaps someone else can tell.
Dennis, unfortunately that's the new style like Daisy is currently selling for $12. It's what would be used if someone wanted to swap out the old style setup. Replacement/maintenance parts like seals, exh. valves, etc. are uber cheap. It also shows what I was talking about regarding date stamping- it was made in 2017. Earlier VB are sometimes stamped with an ink stamp.
To find an early type rifled barrel in a parts gun, look for a 1980 through 1989 model 880 having a LOT NO with the:
- 1st position- any letter
- 2nd position- number 0 through 9
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Thanks everyone, all this info is very helpful and gives me confidence.
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To find an early type rifled barrel in a parts gun, look for a 1980 through 1989 model 880 having a LOT NO with the:
1st position- any letter2nd position- number 0 through 9
The LOT NO. info above is wrong, and it's too late to edit the post. It should read look for a 1983 through 1989 having a LOT NO. with the:
- 1st position- numbers 3 through 9
- 2nd position- any letter
Sorry about that!
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Dennis, unfortunately that's the new style like Daisy is currently selling for $12. It's what would be used if someone wanted to swap out the old style setup. Replacement/maintenance parts like seals, exh. valves, etc. are uber cheap. It also shows what I was talking about regarding date stamping- it was made in 2017. Earlier VB are sometimes stamped with an ink stamp.
Yeah Mark, it's been a whole year since I was into 880's and I've since moved on to Weihrauchs. Give me another year and I'll have forgotten all of that as well, LOL.
Sorry if I've misled anyone. ???
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Yeah Mark, it's been a whole year since I was into 880's and I've since moved on to Weihrauchs. Give me another year and I'll have forgotten all of that as well, LOL.
Sorry if I've misled anyone. ???
Well, you haven't misled anyone nearly as bad as I just did- it turns out the "new style" VB with a pressed-in barrel isn't so new after all! I had previously thought that a brass compression tube = clamped-in barrel. I just found out that pressed barrels were used as early as April, 1984- and possibly earlier! So a brass compression tube doesn't mean anything as far as how the barrel is retained. AFAIK, the brass tube does mean the intake seal is the expensive to buy cup type, aka "top hat" seal.
So strike all that I said above regarding what years to look for to get a clamped-in barrel that's rifled. I will post what years- if there are any- as soon as I know.
I apologize for any confusion that I have caused.
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I got everything needed from Tony at T-Mac today. Going to take my time and clean, polish , lube and check twice as I reassemble. I GOT this,,,,,I think,,,,I hope!
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You definitely got this!
Link to a GTA thread on finding Daisy model 880 rifled barrels that are a drop in fit for smoothbore 880 guns is HERE (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=162070.new#new).
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SUCCESS,,,,,,,,,but not at first attempt
Took my time and thought I had it aced. But, was very disappointed when I tested my work. All I got was pufft, tried several times. Went back upstairs to sulk. I thought about just setting it in the corner and selling it at the up coming gun show in October, I dont need this aggravation. After cooling down and thinking some more I went back to the work bench to tear down again. I found the small amber seal that goes between the valve and barrel port was busted in three pieces. Dont know if the clamp was too tight or the barrel moved around while being assembled and cracked it. Lucky that Tony had put a spare in my bag of goodies . Just a little more time and she was back together. Mounted the Muller red dot back on and headed outside. A couple sight in shots and then 5 in the bull of a 2" shoot-n-see at 10 meters. Maybe I can get a good nights sleep now. I enjoy destroying empty beer cans with this little fun gun. Off to drain a can or two now.
Thanks everyone for your help and encouragement
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Sweet success!
That confounded seal is the biggest drawback to the design of the earlier 880 IMHO! When the seal was new it had compressibility and that lets the clamp and screw attachment arrangement do its job- the seal acts as a spring to hold the barrel tight. But when the seal gets old and brittle and takes a set to the installed thickness, the chances of it leaking pressure as well as cracking goes way up. It shows Tony knows his stuff by including a new seal with your order.
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So did you find the rifled barrel you were looking for? Back in the day mine only had a smoothbore - but was deadnuts accurate anyway. I've got parts of two rifles knocking around here, need to put them on the bench and see what is lacking to get one up and running. It'd be cool to have an old 880 around again.
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So did you find the rifled barrel you were looking for? Back in the day mine only had a smoothbore - but was deadnuts accurate anyway. I've got parts of two rifles knocking around here, need to put them on the bench and see what is lacking to get one up and running. It'd be cool to have an old 880 around again.
I had Tony at T-Mac to inspect the barrel. He thinks the swirls we could see is the riffling.Said they would be light because of it being a straw barrel. BUT, then he came out with another straw barrel that had deep rifling but did not know what gun it was from, it had the port opening but not the small notch for the seal placement. I suspect it may have been a Crosman. Regardless, my barrel is shooting very well out to 25 yards so I dont plan to worry about it anymore.