GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Machine Shop Talk & AG Parts Machining => Topic started by: lennyk on June 24, 2019, 06:53:47 AM
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So what is the verdict on these mini lathes ?
I gather a lot of work needs to be done checking them over initially but do they have enough power for cutting barrels etc ?
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Good work can be accomplished regarding valves, air gun barrels, and similar work. Turning, boring, and threading of work can be performed - there is enough power. The quality is that of a low grade chinese air gun - work and tuning needed.
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So what is the verdict on these mini lathes ?
I gather a lot of work needs to be done checking them over initially but do they have enough power for cutting barrels etc ?
When living in West Virginia I ordered a Harbor Freight 7x12 minilathe on sale for $250ish (that was a long time ago) and the lathe received must have been thrown together from "outta spec parts", however I did use it after a few mods. I even ordered a 14" bed for it along with some tooling. LOL......the tooling itself cost more than the lathe. I later ordered a larger 8x14 LatheMaster bench top lathe that I still use about every week. Here's the 7x12 HF lathe after replacing the bed with a longer 14" bed..........
(https://i.imgur.com/HWKW2aFl.jpg)
Concerning power of a 7x12 Harbor Freight minilathe, it was pretty gutless when turning steel. The HF lathe had a variable speed DC motor and if the cutting tool caused the work piece to stall due to taking too heavy of a chip (happened easily) there was a fuse that would blow. I replaced many fuses until one day the circuit board acted to protect the fuse when it "fried". The lathe still worked, however the speed control would work only at high speed. I found out that a replacement circuit board would cost more than half of what I paid to the lathe on sale so I ordered the LatheMaster at that time which was belt driven with step pulleys to control speed.
Here is the 8x14 LatheMaster I'm still using........
(https://i.imgur.com/BJFXQ1wl.jpg)
One of the biggest restrictions of the mini lathe is the small 3/4" spindle bore that forces the use of a steady rest or live/dead center to support longer work pieces that are larger in diameter than the spindle bore. I used to fabricate home made pistons for my HW springers from 1" diameter tubing that needed a steady rest to support the "free end".
When I first started my "seat of the pants" machining I relied on a couple web sites to help, Little Machine Shop and Varmint Al.....
Little Machine Shop for minilathes, parts and how-to vids.......
https://littlemachineshop.com/
Varmint Al does do some light gunsmith work on the minilathe and has developed a lot of useful modifications for the lathe.......
https://varmintal.com/alath.htm
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The Lathmaster was an excellent step up from the 7X machines of the time. It has considerably more capability.
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The Lathmaster was an excellent step up from the 7X machines of the time. It has considerably more capability.
LatheMaster is "outta business" however I've read that the Harbor Freight 8x12 is the same lathe with a different color. Anywhoo, this looks like mine except for the color. The LatheMaster did come with more accessories when I ordered it such as steady rest, follow rest, 4 jaw chuck, and other stuff......
https://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-x-12-inch-precision-benchtop-lathe-44859.html (https://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-x-12-inch-precision-benchtop-lathe-44859.html)
https://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-x-12-inch-precision-benchtop-lathe-44859.html (https://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-x-12-inch-precision-benchtop-lathe-44859.html)
As a side note.......I always had "chatter issues" with my LatheMaster unless I too very light cuts. Recently I decided to scrape the sliding surfaces so there was more contact between the parts and I found that my LatheMaster dovetails weren't machined very accurately. The first cross slide surface slid on my inked surface plate only had transfer in two opposite corners. Matter of fact, before scraping I could actually rock the cross slide on the surface plate by pressing on the opposing corners. Being new to scraping using an old file with ground end I was able to get about 50% contact with the surface plate after a lot of scraping. The scraping wasn't "professional quality", however much better that the factory supplied surfaces. After about a week of scraping, sharpening my "scraper made from file" all sliding surfaces were "flat" and after reassembling the machine chatter was GREATLY reduced!
I don't know what the machining quality of the current 8x12 HF lathe is at roughly twice the price of the LatheMaster bought a couple decades ago but even "straight from the crate" I'm guessing it would be "useable".
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-hAlakFbCk (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-hAlakFbCk)
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So far, I like mine- I have a 16" bed extension I'll eventually get around to doing. I have nearly every upgrade you can get for it, BUT...
I'll say this: Always, ALWAYS get the largest machine you can afford, are able to move by yourself if needed, and have room for. IMO, these are the three most important points of consideration when thinking of purchasing a machine. Bottom line, lathes are handy tools. You're gonna use them for projects you never even thought you had!!
Now, you're always going to lose financially if you buy a small machine thinking "oh, I'll just get a bigger one later". You HAVE to consider all three major points when thinking about budget- "can I move this by myself if needed", and "do I even have room for this thing?" should definitely influence "which lathe should I get"... The other consideration that's important is the fact that you're gonna spend more money on tooling.
For me and my situation, the 7x lathe makes sense. It is small enough for me to man-handle around by myself with no help. Which means moving and placing the machine was relatively easy. It is large enough to handle all the projects I'll have for the foreseeable future. It fits perfectly in the somewhat small workshop I have. Also, as a bonus, when I bought my machine, the cost of the machine, plus ALL the upgrades:
Metal gears
Quick change tool post
Bed extension
Upgraded headstock bearings
Upgraded the fuse to a push-button breaker
Second chuck that's a 4" 4-jaw independant
All of that was STILL less expensive (by more than a couple hundred dollars) than purchasing a 7x16 outright, and I got metal gears... The more expensive 7x16 didn't include them. It also fulfilled my need to tinker. I will say that the 7x16 has better quality control, 2 speed gear box and a better motor. But those were sacrifices I was willing to take... Plus if my motor poops out, I can simplify the lathe even more than it is now with parts from a drill press.
Not a sermon, just a thought... They're fun machines!
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I see that there are also many 8x lathes but with a 750w motor instead of 550w like the he unit.
I will prob go with an 8x
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If the plan is bed extensions, metal change gears (I have never broken a plastic change gear), bearing upgrades, additional chuck, etc, it would probably be better to get a 9X20 - despite it's own shortcomings and still a 3/4" spindle hole. More standard equipment; 3 and 4 jaw chucks, fixed and traveling steadies - and just bigger.
Ya pays your money and makes your choices - or vice versa.
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If the plan is bed extensions, metal change gears (I have never broken a plastic change gear), bearing upgrades, additional chuck, etc, it would probably be better to get a 9X20 - despite it's own shortcomings and still a 3/4" spindle hole. More standard equipment; 3 and 4 jaw chucks, fixed and traveling steadies - and just bigger.
Ya pays your money and makes your choices - or vice versa.
"(I have never broken a plastic change gear)"
Same here with my HF 7x12 minilathe, I only had electrical issues with the speed control and blown fuses when I stalled the motor with too heavy a cut.
Anywhoo, my LatheMaster came with metal gears. Here is a pic of the 8x14 LatheMaster and 8x12 Harbor Freight metal gears..........
(https://i.imgur.com/OfQtVdEl.png)
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Not everyone has the same experience with those plastic gears...
My lathe arrived with one broken gear, the apron (cross slide? saddle? carriage?) hand wheel was broken, and the tailstock hand wheel is cracked. The emergency stop switch was partially ripped off. The Potentiometer was also bad and the the safety switch for the chuck shield was mangled. After diving into the lathe to do all the upgrades, I found a second gear was cracked.
I don't regret any of my purchases... Except the gear reduction kit... That was my fault though- I should have read the ad on ebay more closely- the gear reduction kit was made for a 2 speed lathe, mine is single speed (high-low range gears in the headstock, not "speed" speed). At the end of it all, it's been a learning experience for me. Again, for everything I've purchased, it was still cheaper than getting a 7x16 from the get go.
For me, my current work shop size and location in the house, and the projects I have planned, the single speed 7x works for now. Now- when I can move my workshop to the garage, I can upgrade to a bigger lathe and mill! ;D
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Notwithstanding my previous comment, to start with hobby machining, the best path is the cheapest 7x to be had. These machines are very similar to practically identical. They are mostly made by two manufacturers, SIEG and Real Bull (the change gears in a RB have a different ID for the change gears)l. My first was a SEIG-made Homier 7x12 (@ $299) and having the opposite end of the 7X spectrum now, I can say there is no practical difference in the quality.
But I will say the newer brushless motor versions with no gears in the headstock do add some value.
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Do they all come with brushless motors now?
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Do they all come with brushless motors now?
No, the versions with brushless motors do not have the two-speed ranges with gears in the headstock and a gear lever on the back of the headstock. Those gears in the headstock are also plastic and a potential weak spot, but I never broke them either. Versions with the gear lever on the back do not have the brushless motor.
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Do they all come with brushless motors now?
No, the versions with brushless motors do not have the two-speed ranges with gears in the headstock and a gear lever on the back of the headstock. Those gears in the headstock are also plastic and a potential weak spot, but I never broke them either. Versions with the gear lever on the back do not have the brushless motor.
I was wondering this too
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https://littlemachineshop.com is a good source for parts and tooling matched to the size of these machines. That said companies like shars.com can be a better value for the generic tooling. You can do much of the 7x stuff on just about any of them, the 12" bed is best value vs the Harbor Freight 10" bed. The 14in tends to be quite a bit more...
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https://littlemachineshop.com is a good source for parts and tooling matched to the size of these machines. That said companies like shars.com can be a better value for the generic tooling. You can do much of the 7x stuff on just about any of them, the 12" bed is best value vs the Harbor Freight 10" bed. The 14in tends to be quite a bit more...
Quite so - The HF 7x10 is really a 7x8 when measured the same way as the 7x12, 7x14, and 7x16 lathes.
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So instead of starting a new thread I figured I’ll resurrect this old one since it fits my question. I’m looking for a small bench top lathe. Been scouring clist, OfferUp and other sources. My price range is on the low end. I have found quite a few atlas /craftsman 6 inch lathes that don’t have quick change gear boxes and are usually missing the motor and the change gears, tool post or other parts for about the same price as a China 7x14 which you can easily buy parts for. Which would be a better choice? I’m not looking to do heavy work just airgun parts, small bushings things of that sort.
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The old machines are better. But finding parts for them is getting harder and more expensive. You really want to look at the old ones in person, but you have to know what you're looking at/for. JMHO, get one of the 7x14 lathes. Make sure it's either a HF or LMS version. ALL parts are interchangeable. Those blue/white super cheap ones on ebay are... not so interchangeable. Here's my thread on that very subject:
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=160913.msg155795240#msg155795240 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=160913.msg155795240#msg155795240)