GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Artemis/SPA Airguns => Topic started by: Walther on June 06, 2019, 04:18:20 PM
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Hi I purchased a CR600w a few months ago with the idea of a project gun as I like to tinker and I had an upcoming 52 Bday and I'm long time target shooter.
I had wanted to build 2250 type(money pit) this already had multishot breech etc:)
In canada the cr600w comes with the LR700W barrel (no moderator) 21.6 barrel and tuned to 500fps
Here it is next my 1322 carbine I built many years ago.
I have unimat db200 micro lathe /mill :)
I had a list of mods i planned.
Tomorrow is my Bday and I just finished it today .
Remove Iron Sights
Mount 3-9x32 bugbuster scope
polish and clean all internals (hammer , sear, trigger+shims)
Checker rear of bolt
2000Grit wetsand and buff the bolt
Make custom oversized stainless bolt
Reshape co2 filler cap
Inlet stock for 2nd Barrel Band
Relieve the chamber lead in and polish to smooth pellet loading
Recrown the barrel
Carbon Barrel shroud with Muzzle Brake MK1
Carbon Barrel shroud with integrated Airstripper MK2
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Hi I purchased a CR600w a few months ago with the idea of a project gun as I like to tinker and I'm long time target shooter.
I had wanted to build 2250 type(money pit) this already had multishot breech etc:)
In canada the cr600w comes with the LR700W barrel and front sight 21.6 barrel and tuned to 500fps
Here it is next my 1322 carbine I built many years ago.
I have look at this one too for my next build... Since they are light and reliable they would make a good hunter..
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Erik, I don't know how this managed to slip to the second page with only one reply. Let's just assume it was because your workmanship looks so nice that there's nothing much to add.
I ordered one of them from Mrodair back in Dec 2017 and it produced erratic groups. As soon as I removed the muzzle attachment, I noticed damaged rifling at the muzzle from where the factory had used an unfloated pilot to crown it. I mothballed it for a few months before chopping and recrowning. Despite having only a drill press, it turned out pretty nicely.
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=5871)
Totally transformed how it shoots. With its favorite pellets, it now will group around MoA at 25 yards:
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=5916)
Even managed a freak Feinwerkbau type group:
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=5937)
An O-ring buffer between the hammer and valve netted 58 shots on a cartridge (570fps with H&N FTT for about 6fpe). With that done, the report became very tame and it isn't as sensitive to temperature changes. It's a joy to shoot. Feels great in the hands thanks to the all metal and wood construction, yet it's still lightweight enough to shoot offhand without fatigue.
Thanks for sharing yours. I hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoy mine.
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Have you play with the transfer port??? What is your chrony number?
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Me? No changes to any porting, I simply played with the O-ring buffer until the velocity just began to taper off. It was delivering 600fps for about 25 shots out of the box. Afterwards it was 570fps for 58 shots...twice the total energy from a 12gr cartridge.
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Me? No changes to any porting, I simply played with the O-ring buffer until the velocity just began to taper off. It was delivering 600fps for about 25 shots out of the box. Afterwards it was 570fps for 58 shots...twice the total energy from a 12gr cartridge.
NICE! 58 shots is a great improve for such little work on it.
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...for such little work
But I didn't tell you how many different iterations of O-ring stacks of different durometers and spacers it took to get there ;D
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Erik, I don't know how this managed to slip to the second page with only one reply. Let's just assume it was because your workmanship looks so nice that there's nothing much to add.
I ordered one of them from Mrodair back in Dec 2017 and it produced erratic groups. As soon as I removed the muzzle attachment, I noticed damaged rifling at the muzzle from where the factory had used an unfloated pilot to crown it. I mothballed it for a few months before chopping and recrowning. Despite having only a drill press, it turned out pretty nicely.
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=5871)
Totally transformed how it shoots. With its favorite pellets, it now will group around MoA at 25 yards:
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=5916)
Even managed a freak Feinwerkbau type group:
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=5937)
An O-ring buffer between the hammer and valve netted 58 shots on a cartridge (570fps with H&N FTT for about 6fpe). With that done, the report became very tame and it isn't as sensitive to temperature changes. It's a joy to shoot. Feels great in the hands thanks to the all metal and wood construction, yet it's still lightweight enough to shoot offhand without fatigue.
Thanks for sharing yours. I hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoy mine.
Thank you nervous trigger
I love to build. I had been scouring the net for info on these rifles and had seen a post talking about the rifling issue just the other day, maybe it was your post. Today I looked at mine with a bore scope and confirmed there is some damage ⅜ in from the muzzle. While it is grouping well (at only 7 yds) I can't let that go so I will be cutting and re crowning it after my chrony arrives in the mail. I will have to adjust the fitment of my airstripper shroud to take into account the barrel stub length change.
I showed my wife the rifle and the first thing she said was are you going build a stock for it, she said its really you LOL.
So maybe another FT type stock might have to get made.Another Project..
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Have you play with the transfer port??? What is your chrony number?
I have not played with the transfer port as it was already tuned to just less than 500 fps before i got it.
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...for such little work
But I didn't tell you how many different iterations of O-ring stacks of different durometers and spacers it took to get there ;D
Haha is yours .177? mine is .22
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Yeah mine is a .177. That’s my preferred caliber for anything that runs on 12gr cartridges, mainly for keeping shot count to at least 50 without having to drop the velocity too much.
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Jason.... are you referring to a BStaley type buffer mod?
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Nice job...and on a rifle not so often used as a base gun. Really kind of sorry to see that model so hard to find today.
Will also be one to keep to .177's for 12gr. use mostly, although I do have other 12gr. in .22 and 5mm....just seems better suited to .177's for the uses I'd put a co2 rifle to.
BStaley type buffer mod is certainly worth a try. HAven't had 100% suscess with it,but on the rifles where it did work,was a pretty easy mod...and one you can undo without any real non-reversable mods.
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Had lots of success with it on the FD-PCP Gen 1.
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Bill, yes a bstaley type buffer. I made a joke about it being fidgety to find a good arrangement, and I think that’s a fair way to describe tuning a PCP with one. But actually it’s pretty straightforward with a CO2 gun, and as Ribbonstone stated, it’s nice that it is easily reversible.
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Thanks Jason.... I picked up a couple Maximus' that I'm gonna dabble with the oring buffer on. Might as well tinker with the Plinkster while I'm at it.
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Thank You
Ribbonstone, we currently have two online canadian dealers selling the cr600w's both will tune them to your spec and also offer the chaser etc variants . They offer the cr600w as a pcp for 275 canadian:)
Nice job...and on a rifle not so often used as a base gun. Really kind of sorry to see that model so hard to find today.
Will also be one to keep to .177's for 12gr. use mostly, although I do have other 12gr. in .22 and 5mm....just seems better suited to .177's for the uses I'd put a co2 rifle to.
BStaley type buffer mod is certainly worth a try. HAven't had 100% suscess with it,but on the rifles where it did work,was a pretty easy mod...and one you can undo without any real non-reversable mods.
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Crowning job, I decided to go a do it. I cut about 1/2inch off leaving me with 21 inch barrel. There was a pretty messy spot in the rifling just like yours. I've chopped a few barrels before , usually I face them on my micro mill to get them close, I then use a jib I made with a cordless drill and spin the barrel while using a bench belt sander to grt them accurate. I check them with machinist square and then carry on with wetsanding with (oil) while spinning it in the drill and then crown it with the brass screw and jb paste method. Came out nice , I put it all back together and it is shooting tighter than before:)
Thanks for the heads up re rifling
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Hi Erik,
Nice job! It looks clean and the proof is in the improved groups. I love a success story.
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Hi Erik,
Nice job! It looks clean and the proof is in the improved groups. I love a success story.
Thank you , I'm happy with the outcome , the hardest part was having to shorten the part of my air strip body. The LR700w barrel that comes on these in canada has reduced diameter for the last two inches of 11.7 so I could not just slide it back , I had to turn it shorter so the distance from the muzzle to the cone was in the right ball park. Still have to play around with the cone settings and sight it in on a longer range to see effects. I love building parts from scratch:)
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Today I made custom tight clearance brass pins for the trigger group.
Very Fiddly work. I made them with the shoulder next to the head so they kind of pressure fit on one side.
I also added a longer set screw for the trigger with a polished cone point, which smoothed out the trigger more
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The trigger is pretty decent but could use some more improvements.
So I replaced the the trigger spring with one from under the flint of a good ol bic lighter. I used about 1/4 to ⅓ of the spring after making a spring guide out of a 2mm x5mm stainless bolt with the threads shaved off.
Next replaced the trigger set screw with one long enough to poke out each side of the trigger 1mm. This reduces take up and travel and kinda mimics a two stage.
I made sure to bang and tap the stock a few different ways to make sure it can't fire a erroneously. If you do it right the safety works perfectly as the safety engagement part of the trigger is just resting against the safety.
It now has very short pull with a clean break at somewhere around 13 oz.
I can post pics if anybody wants.
Happy Friday I am B deep in a classic style maragarita made with my homemade key lime syrup and Reposado Tequila:)
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Well done! Great to see outstanding workmanship and ingenuity. I am thinking of picking up one of Wes's(AirgunArcheryFun) regulated PCP rifles's in .177. I think your post may have convinced me to pull the trigger. ;D
PS...I lived in LoLo for 15years...I miss the NorthShore.
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Well done! Great to see outstanding workmanship and ingenuity. I am thinking of picking up one of Wes's(AirgunArcheryFun) regulated PCP rifles's in .177. I think your post may have convinced me to pull the trigger. ;D
PS...I lived in LoLo for 15years...I miss the NorthShore.
Thank you!
These rifles have a lot of potential if you can do some work on them. I may have some "extra" upgrade parts available;) ie bolt ,carbon alu muzzle brake
Where are you now? Wes is great A++ guy to deal with.
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I’d like to say how nice your carbine is in the original post. It’s looks great, what kind of power and accuracy does it give you?
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Question....does your safety still work as a safety after the trigger mods?
Have gotten a good trigger pull on a Gen. I version....but then the safety, while it would click-click in and out as it always did, didn't actually stop it from firing when it was "on". Figured out a quick-n-wasy cure to make it work correctly and keep the trigger pull.
Realize I nearly never use it (I just won't cock the rifle unless I'm going to shoot it), but for those once-in-awhile situations it's useful to have...and very useful to have when others are allowed to shoot it (As I just don't want to get shot by a newbie).
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I’d like to say how nice your carbine is in the original post. It’s looks great, what kind of power and accuracy does it give you?
Thank you Toddspeed, I am in Canada so it is tuned to jsb 15.56 at 490 fps to make it backyard and basement friendly, power is not my goal . After barrel recrowning it is Very accurate stacking pellets in my 10m basement range. I like to build stuff and I'm recuoerating from knee surgery so it is "busy work" for me.
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Question....does your safety still work as a safety after the trigger mods?
Have gotten a good trigger pull on a Gen. I version....but then the safety, while it would click-click in and out as it always did, didn't actually stop it from firing when it was "on". Figured out a quick-n-wasy cure to make it work correctly and keep the trigger pull.
Realize I nearly never use it (I just won't cock the rifle unless I'm going to shoot it), but for those once-in-awhile situations it's useful to have...and very useful to have when others are allowed to shoot it (As I just don't want to get shot by a newbie).
My safety is still functioning as it should, with the longer around 5mm set screw the safety just clears the stub on the trigger blocking it. I am very safety conscious so a working safety is a must have so I have tapped it with rubber mallet a few different ways to make sure it can't fire on its own to check. The bic lighter spring mod really worked well to lighten the trigger.
Is there anywhere you buy Gen two trigger? I have looked all over and found very little parts availability..
My Next mod will be the Bstaley mod , i'm just researching setups now..
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Did the bstaley mod recently. Easiest mod ever . Turned out my cr600w has short valve stem it only took one 113 o-ring which landed right at 488 fps where I wanted it. Next to test how many shots before fps drops.
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Don't know what you know about the BStaley but, your goal is to get a nice bell curve. The first shot and last shot should be very near matching with nice steady rise in the middle. The lower the high point of the rise, the better.
Good luck... please post your results.
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On an unregulated PCP, the goal is a longer useful bell curve at a reduced velocity. On a CO2 gun like the CR600W, it's basically a regulated system (albeit temperature sensitive per the nature of CO2) so a bstaley can be used a little differently to reduce both hammer strike and hammer bounce to improve efficiency.
When setting up a CO2 gun, I generally chronograph it and see where it's running wide open, then I add O-rings and shims until the velocity just begins to drop. That tends to do a good job at reducing CO2 usage, typically netting anywhere from 50% to 100% more shots, and a side benefit is it becomes less sensitive to temperature changes.
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On my cr600 it was shooting 498-515 which is a little high for my needs.
With one o ring it dropped it down to 480 fps with the next 5 mags within 6 fps , then it drops off suddenly with each subsequent shot dropping by 8-10 fps .
Very happy with the results.