GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => PCP/CO2/HPA Air Gun Gates "The Darkside" => Topic started by: YEMX on May 25, 2019, 10:01:30 PM
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I started this .30 condor build way back when... I sent off a SS Condor of to Talon Tunes to modify it to .30, once he announced that he had built his first one. I liked the numbers, and thought it would be a good build. I got the rifle back, and it was just WAY too long. Anyhoo, long story short, I got one of the last Microlite bullpup kits for it, had a custom breech made before the maker shipped the kit to me... Sat on it for a while, but now that I have my mill up and running-
I shortened the Condor frame down to 16.25" OAL
I shortened the barrel down to 20" OAL
I began installing the Microlite kit
This is where I am now. I'll have to wait until Friday to order the reamer I need, as the breech is a touch too small for the barrel. But once I get the reamer in, I'll be back on track!! I still need to have a LDC mount made, and get an LDC. I'll post pictures later, but if y'all remember my .25 TalonP bullpup, that's what this rifle pretty much looks like- just a touch longer. I also have a WokGard on this- which is a trigger guard and AR15 grip mount... I'm excited! I sold the .25 because I knew I had this one in the works... I'm probably going to mount the Sightmark Photon night vision scope I have on this. It'll be my night time critter gitter. ;D ;D Or maybe not. Who knows?
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I probably will end up using this as my night time hunting rifle, bullpup? Carbine? Whatever. Anyhoo, I'll probably end up using this for night time because the .30 packs more punch than the .25, and I won't need as many shots since there's not much around here at night to shoot. I'm not certain, but I think this will be tuned for around 70 or 80 fpe. No idea on shot count, but it'll be low. Good thing it's a single shot! ;D
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Picture of the breech I have to modify very slightly:
(https://i.imgur.com/qcYRlkW.jpg)
This is the modified Condor SS with the Microlite adapter on it:
(https://i.imgur.com/wNr6a9V.jpg)
Just in case you didn't see my TalonP version, basically, the Microlite kit makes the AF gun a bullpup and a sidecocker. I'll post more when I get her wrapped up. I forgot I still need to drill and tap the end cap screw holes.
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WAY KOOL!!!
Keep us up to date...I am thinking of some way to do a larger cal barrel for mt Talon P...a QUICK AND EASY swap in/out.
Good Luck
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Unfortunately there's no real easy way to swap calibers... The correct way is to have a barrel machined, new barrel bushings if the O.D. of the barrel is larger than factory, and a new breech to match the breech side of the barrel, plus the top hat. Of course, up to .25 and .30 you're covered. Bigger than .30 and you're gonna have to make a new top hat. AFAIK. I could be wrong. But this is the way Tony at Talon Tunes does it. Dyotat100 builds completely custom guns, so he basically does the same thing...
Case in point, my .30 barrel's O.D. is .588" Not exactly sure what the O.D. of factory barrels is, but it's not that big.
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Ah poop... I meant to say "Case in point, my .30 barrel's O.D. is .588", which is bigger than the factory barrel's O.D., and I needed new barrel bushings made special for this barrel". The Microlite kit also had to be modified to fit the barrel and top hat of the .30 conversion, since the typical breech wouldn't work.
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Ah poop... I meant to say "Case in point, my .30 barrel's O.D. is .588, which is bigger than the factory barrel's O.D., and I needed new barrel bushings made special for this barrel". The Microlite kit also had to be modified to fit the barrel and top hat of the .30 conversion, since the typical breech wouldn't work.
*sigh* This is so aggravating. The correction is in bold. ::)
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*SIGH* The "bold" that you can't see because it's in a quote box and is hard to see due to the color. :-\ I'm just going to stop with the corrections... :(
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Tom,
How do you turn a Condor into a bullpup with the tank as the gun stock plus new forward trigger assembly?
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Tom,
How do you turn a Condor into a bullpup with the tank as the gun stock plus new forward trigger assembly?
The trigger stays in the same spot, the tank gets moved back. I should have specified- you have to use a TalonP tank w/the Microlite kit. Otherwise the LOP is too long.
A bullpup is just something that has a rifle length barrel w/the trigger assembly near the middle of the gun. This has a 20" barrel and the trigger is near enough to the middle of the gun, with the tank pushed back- so I'm calling it a bullpup.
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Cool, thanks for the explanation.. I understand now. It should be a cool build and a great hunting AG.
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i can't wait to see the pictures. 8)
BTW, how do you like the Photon XT ??
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Looking good Tom. You're like this airgun mad scientist always in the lab with all the projects you've got going...
Your 20" barrel past endcap is about the same as 18" barrel would be in the P?
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Cool, thanks for the explanation.. I understand now. It should be a cool build and a great hunting AG.
Yessir- I know it's not a "true" bullpup, but I don't know what else to call it, since it meets the visual cues of a bullpup...
...how do you like the Photon XT ??
I like it a lot! I had to add a IR flashlight though, as the picture just wasn't clear enough for me. My only gripe, which would be the same on other company's equivalent products, is you have to use kentucky windage for your shots. I wish I could afford a NV scope that you put in front of a rifle scope, like a PVS-14, but I'm NOT spending that kind of money on an airgun accessory. It's not a deal-breaker by any means. I just have to get used to using kentucky windage w/o the aid of striations on my crosshairs. To help solve that and hopefully make more accurate shots, I'm going to just set up a range card for all my shooting spots. That way I know exact hold over/under, and ranges.
Looking good Tom. You're like this airgun mad scientist always in the lab with all the projects you've got going...
Your 20" barrel past endcap is about the same as 18" barrel would be in the P?
Me? Mad scientist? Nnnaaaahhhh!! I make a lot of mistakes and end up re-doing most of my projects/ideas... ;D I do try to do fun projects though. Yeah, it's kinda the same look as the 18" barrel in a TalonP, or the EscapeUL, but my set up has less stickout- I cut down the Condor SS frame down to an odd-ball length. That way, the 20" barrel only has a stick out of 3" or something.
P.S. I am SO glad the "modify" button is back...
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...how do you like the Photon XT ??
I like it a lot! I had to add a IR flashlight though, as the picture just wasn't clear enough for me. My only gripe, which would be the same on other company's equivalent products, is you have to use kentucky windage for your shots. I wish I could afford a NV scope that you put in front of a rifle scope, like a PVS-14, but I'm NOT spending that kind of money on an airgun accessory. It's not a deal-breaker by any means. I just have to get used to using kentucky windage w/o the aid of striations on my crosshairs. To help solve that and hopefully make more accurate shots, I'm going to just set up a range card for all my shooting spots. That way I know exact hold over/under, and ranges.
is the included IR illuminator weak ??
just won a new XT on ebay for $255 shipped !!
hope it does as good as my x-sight 4k pro because it appears to be much more compact to use on my pitbull carbine.
i replaced the 4k pro's illuminator soon after i got it, it was weak too.
i will put the same kind on the xt after i play with it some.
thanks for your information ;)
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Don't think I ever saw your BP AF. Would like to though! ;)
Mike
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Here is the BP talonP-
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is the included IR illuminator weak ??
just won a new XT on ebay for $255 shipped !!
For me, yes- the included illuminator is weak. It may be fine for others though, so definitely test it out before spending more money on a 2nd illuminator. I've been spoiled by military NV equipment... So the more light the better! These digital NV certainly take some getting used to. Congratulations! That's about what I bought mine for, a few years back...
Thank you kkarmical- yep! There she is. This one will be longer though, but overall it'll look about the same. I may do a actual camo pattern on this one, not sure yet. Or possibly make a ghillie cover? Dunno. There's this stock I found on the web I want to try:
(https://i.imgur.com/nlNaiJh.jpg)
I want to use this one mainly because of the adjustable cheek piece. The NV scope is kinda awkward with the AF bullpup set up, so the more adjustment the better. I might have to make the buttpad slimmer though- it looks really thick. The stock is expensive for what it is, but there's literally only one company making these, and it'll be worth it, as I'm not selling this build. The Microlites aren't made anymore (the maker might have a few kits left), and I'm pretty sure I have the only .30, other than the maker of the Microlite. The .30 is such a handy caliber! As long as I do my part, I can take Coyote (at close range) and smaller varmints... Not that I think the .25 couldn't do it, I just feel better with a .30. I'll be ordering the LDC adapter around the 10th of June when the machinist is back in the shop, and the LDC probably the 1st of July. So around August is the earliest time I'll be able to start sending lead down range... Which is fine- it gives me time to see how close the coyotes are coming, and from what direction they're coming from. I also have ample time to set up my range cards and possibly a tree stand if those coyotes are getting in close. I sure don't want to rumble with them in the dark on the ground with just an airgun. Anyhoo, I'll post more pictures when I can.
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Nice looking build. I can't wait to see the new one.
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Nice looking build. I can't wait to see the new one.
Thank you! Me too! I'm interested to see how this will turn out.
Not much of an update, I disassembled both the TalonP valves and the Condor valves, and Frankensteined the TalonP valve back together. Basically it's just the TalonP valve body with all the Talon Tunes guts/top hat. Everything measured very nearly the same, and Tony did say that the top hats are interchangeable between all the valves. So *crosses fingers* here's to hoping everything works out!
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I've got the reamer on order- should be here tomorrow. Saturday at the latest. I just noticed the WokGuard15 uses a smaller than normal screw for the AR grip, so I'll have to go hunting for a screw and lock washer tomorrow. Well, at least the WokGuard I have here uses a smaller screw. I'm not sure if they all do. I'll have to mod the frame ever so slightly back by the grip as well- the lower rail gouges my hand a bit when gripping the gun. I'll post pics when I get around to installing the grip. Getting closer! I'll also post a pic of the NV w/the IR illuminator tomorrow as well.
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Amazing what reaming a hole to size will do for fitment. Seriously. It is as perfect a fit as the Talon Tunes breech.
(https://i.imgur.com/pgYZ6AF.jpg)
I was thinking about getting a new breech knob made up, but now that I'm thinking about it- I really just want to assemble the gun. I still have to wait for the custom LDC mount, and I'll still have to wait to order the LDC itself... But this .30 Condor Microlite should be done around mid July...
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I did a preliminary assembly of the Microlite Condor:
(https://i.imgur.com/NRgQm1F.jpg)
I'm going to have to disassemble it again- there's some sticking when cocking the gun. I need to figure out what it is. Also, I still have to drill and tap for the end cap screws. I'm going to run 2 screws, top and bottom as I noticed the factory end cap was trying to work it's way off for some reason. I also need to paint it while it's apart.
I measured the barrel stick out, and its much shorter than I thought- 1.75". No worries though. It's plenty enough stick out to clear the LCD threads.
Almost forgot- here's my NV scope with IR illuminator:
(https://i.imgur.com/IiMCffO.jpg)
Not sure if I'm going to keep the IR illuminator on the top, or on the side... I think I'll swing it back to the side, the lens cover will probably be less of an obstruction than the battery cover...
The IR illuminator is a UniqueFire T20 from Amazon. Uses an 18650 battery. Not included.
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As you see it in the picture above, the Microlite Condor is a touch over 28" from the end of the tank to the muzzle. With an 8" LDC that replaces the end cap from Mr. Clague, it brings the OAL to about 38". Which is 4" longer than a factory TalonSS. Not sure what the OAL will be with the stock though.
Oh- and I ended up just rotating the illuminator to the side again- much less obstruction w/the lens cover compared to the battery cover.
I'm still giddy over how well the breech fits, now that I've reamed it to size... It's the little things ;D
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How similar are the TalonP and Condor valves? I was under the impression that they're essentially the same, save for the tank side valve threads. Confirmed, they're the same save for the tank side threads...
My top hat seems to be sticking out further than what I remember as normal. I measured my top hat gap, and it's .214". That doesn't seem right. Would anyone know the gap spec off the top of their head? I can't adjust the gap as it's a Talon Tunes 1pc top hat, but comparing my gap to factory spec, I can see if mine is sticking out too far... I have to push back on the top hat to get the breech to fully seated, which I probably won't be able to do once the tank is aired up. Again, I swapped the guts from a Condor valve into the TalonP valve. I compared everything, and they all seemed to be the same length and such... Thoughts?
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Okay- I'm tired of fiddling with this thing... I want to shoot it. It's going back to it's original configuration. Couple changes- It's getting a 62 cu in 3k psi tank that Doug modified for me a few years back. I'll have to shorten the front of the frame by about a half inch more, just to make sure I'm fully engaging the barrel bushing in the original Clague LDC I had for the long version of the gun. I also had to cut down the rear of the frame to clear the tank, since it's a larger O.D. than an original tank. On the bright side, none of my original parts are going to waste! The grip feel isn't that great though... No biggie, it's comfortable enough to do the job. I'll have pics for y'all tomorrow, along with initial numbers.
It'll still be long, at around 41"+, but it's 9"+ shorter than it was originally, and fits in my rifle bag. EDIT: I just realized it's only 3" longer than what the bullpup version would have been with a newly made Clague LDC, and I get WAY more shots compared to the 13 cu in tank! Crossing fingers that it shoots straight! ;D
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Thanks for posting the pic Ken!
Now, you gain what, about 4 4 1/2 iches of barrel at the same oal with tihs configuration?
Me Likey! 8)
Mike
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Thanks for posting the pic Ken!
Now, you gain what, about 4 4 1/2 iches of barrel at the same oal with tihs configuration?
Me Likey! 8)
Mike
No- the barrel is the same length- 20"... But the bullpup's OAL w/a new 8" Clague LDC would have been 38" with the smaller tank. This one will be around 41" w/the original LDC that Mr. Clague made for the original, super long version of this rifle. So really, the bullpup kit didn't really save me enough length to make a big difference. Plus I'll have more air on tap! Now don't get me wrong- I do feel that the bullpup kit is an awesome addition to a TalonP! I may (MAY!) get another one in the future, as now I have a AF bullpup kit with no home. But after shortening the barrel and the frame, this .30 Condor is much more manageable!! More importantly, it fits in my rifle case, which it wasn't able to do before. I mean, 50"+ is a heck of a long rifle!!
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I haven't assembled the gun yet- I'm waiting for the paint to dry. I did a half-arsed camo paint job. I only wanted to cover up all the areas that have been worked on, so the bare aluminium doesn't shine through... But I just couldn't resist SMH... ::)
Anyhoo, I'm not sure how long factory frames are... I probably just did a lot of work for nothing (meaning I could have just bought the correct length frame if I had been patient)- but let me know... Measured from the spinloc ring to the front of the frame is 15.5". I just realized that the OAL of the LDC is longer than the frame itself at 16.5"! ;D ;D So as you can see in the pictures, I had to cut down the top scope rail because of the larger tank. I drilled and tapped for two end cap screws- top and bottom. For some reason I was having issues with the SS end cap wanting to come out w/just the single screw. I never had issues w/the Clague LDC- but I'm sure the collar that goes into the frame is longer than the end cap's collar. But just in case, I drilled and tapped that second hole. I had to also file down the bottom rail and give it a little radius because both the tank size and the AR grip- the frame was poking me a bit... I've also taken a picture of the old 62 cu in 3k psi tank that Doug modified for me. It's got a butt-plate, y'all will see that later when I assemble the gun. I'll get final measurements when I finish assemble. I'll get initial numbers tonight.
Apologies for the garbage cell camera pics- for some reason it just didn't want to focus... Probably because my workshop is a mess- it didn't know what to focus on! ;D
(https://i.imgur.com/4vMMdRi.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fuGoKlZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/E6GUPB3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SX5WD4A.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YtY7eKM.jpg)
I'm going to be mounting my NV scope on this rifle and it'll be my night time critter gitter... Although, now that I'm using a larger tank, maybe I'll make my .30 Mrod bullpup my critter gitter, and this one a normal rifle... Oh boy. Here we go again!
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Well, here she is, in all her pug-fugly glory!! She's 1" longer than expected: 42" OAL from the muzzle to the butt plate.
(https://i.imgur.com/vagxN7B.jpg)
I'm going to need either high scope rings or adjustable rings, like those FX No Limit rings. The tank's too big. I'm not changing out the tank- I'm just pointing out I need taller or adjustable rings.
Here's two more pics... The first one is the grip area- I can work with it, but it sure isn't comfortable! I may try a more vertical grip and see how that feels. The other pic is of the butt plate. Again, this tank was modified by Mr. Noble.
(https://i.imgur.com/hCrtjWr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QcoT5k6.jpg)
Even though I didn't get to assemble this gun the way I'd like, It's only 4" longer than it would have been bullpuped, and would have been limited in shot's due to the TalonP tank. It's still 9" shorter than the original rifle. I'll figure something out for the AF bullpup kit- but in this case, I'm quite happy w/a normal rifle.
Now I just need to get some rings... I WILL be putting that NV scope on the bullpup Mrod .30 I'm still trying to finish...
EDIT: Okay- new grip... I swapped it from another toy... This angle feels MUCH better. Still not perfect, but even more workable than the A2 grip... I don't think anyone makes a vertical enough grip for this situation... Oh well, I'm not changing it again- this is the grip.
(https://i.imgur.com/JYFgZR7.jpg)
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That looks real good Tom, I bet you're just itching to shoot it.
.30 Mrod bullpup? It's hard for me to keep track of all your builds, do you have a thread on that somewhere?
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That looks real good Tom, I bet you're just itching to shoot it.
.30 Mrod bullpup? It's hard for me to keep track of all your builds, do you have a thread on that somewhere?
I shot her today- For the 60-70 FPE it's putting out, it's stupid quiet... Mr. Clague's LDC is amazing!
I have a hard time keeping track of my builds sometimes too... The bullpup .30 Mrod build:
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=149978.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=149978.0)
I'm going to have to do a lot more shooting... Here's some initial numbers- I don't trust the air gauge on the gun... Doesn't seem right. The original blew it's face plate and was leaking. So I swapped it out, and all seems well. As I said above, this thing is silly quiet for 60-70 fpe...
Here's the string using the original gauge. The face plate blew off at 2k, so that's what was in the gun when I fired the first 20 shots...
2k psi-1.5k psi(??). In fps. 44 gr. pellets. Power wheel (PW) 4.0
777
777
774
774
777
774
774
777
777
767
764
757
760
731
757
754
757
754
754
751
I played around a little bit with the power wheel... decided to start at the bottom... Only did 10 shots, my set up wasn't very comfortable.
3k psi-2.5k psi(?). PW 1.0. 44 gr. pellets. Again, fps.
849
862
856
842
846
839
833
833
820
826
I'm definitely going to have to fiddle with it some more... I'm going to go back to the 20 shot shot string. I'll keep y'all posted. I'll add this- the larger tank FEELS AMAZING!! The only down side is having to find new scope rings. But the length and cheek weld, just fits me. I'm really glad I went back to this configuration!
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I like the Magpul MOE Plus Grip, it is over molded with a quality rubber jacket. They also offer the MOE K2 Plus which has a more vertical profile, quite reasonable pricing to boot.
https://www.magpul.com/firearms-accessories/grips/ar15-m4-m16-sr25-m110-ar10/firearms-accessories/grips/ar15-m4-m16-sr25-m110-ar10-grips/moe-k2-plus-grip-ar15-m4?ProductColor=VO343 (https://www.magpul.com/firearms-accessories/grips/ar15-m4-m16-sr25-m110-ar10/firearms-accessories/grips/ar15-m4-m16-sr25-m110-ar10-grips/moe-k2-plus-grip-ar15-m4?ProductColor=VO343)
https://www.magpul.com/firearms-accessories/grips/ar15-m4-m16-sr25-m110-ar10/firearms-accessories/grips/ar15-m4-m16-sr25-m110-ar10-grips/moe-plus-grip-ar15-m4?ProductColor=VO343 (https://www.magpul.com/firearms-accessories/grips/ar15-m4-m16-sr25-m110-ar10/firearms-accessories/grips/ar15-m4-m16-sr25-m110-ar10-grips/moe-plus-grip-ar15-m4?ProductColor=VO343)
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Tom, I have what is probably the prototype of that ldc on my .257. Even at 200 fpe, she is astonishingly quiet! 8)
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I've said it before, but Mr. Clague does some amazing work!! His Gen2 LDC on my .357 is the bee's knees!!
Nothing new, as the weather's been bad. I'm also leaving on a trip soon... I'll have to pick back up when I get back.
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I didn't see that I had mentioned it, but for anyone interested, there's 6.625" of barrel stick out from the frame.
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I'm gonna have to get a "large tank angled extension" from PCPTunes. The grip is just not comfortable at all, and I don't like it. Anyhoo, it's supposed to push the tank back a touch, and also angles the tank down a bit so that you don't have to use crazy scope mounts. At least, that's what it's advertised to do. So I'll get that first, and see how things go before I go buying those No Limit rings... Hopefully I can get away with just that angled tank adapter. HOPEFULLY, the angled tank adapter will solve two problems- the grip issue and the scope ring height issue! Worse comes to worst, I'll have to use this angled tank adapter and something like those no limit rings... Unless I can measure how much more I need the scope angled, and just get some drooper rings from Mac1 instead... That might be a better idea. Well, cheaper at least! ;D
Even with the angled adapter, the Condor will still fit in my rifle bag- but dang it, it'll be that much longer! ::) I'll keep y'all posted. I'll be ordering it in a week or two.
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I think your gonna really like the angled adapter. Works well! ;)
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I think your gonna really like the angled adapter. Works well! ;)
I hope so! I really dont want to fork over the coin for those FX rings! ;D ;D
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I just ordered that angled tank extender/adapter thing from pcptunes... Holy. Frak. $31 for shipping?! Nope. Never ordering from them again. Jeeze.
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3 days from Mumbai to Md... Jeeze. Looks like this angled tank adapter will be the trick- I should be able to get my hand comfortably around the grip now, and the tank should be angled enough for me to be able to see out of the scope. Also, I got a UTG drooper dovetail to picatinny conversion rail yesterday. I hope that both the drooper rail and angled tank adapter will do the trick to be able to comfortably mount a scope! I want to see how accurate she is and get her sighted in!!
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Finally got her all together, and it feels like a whole new gun!! List of stuff:
Angled tank adapter from PCPTunes
UTG canted dovetail to pic adapter
UTG 1" pic rings, low
I ran into a slight snag when I found that my butt plate mount popped off. It's fine, it was just epoxied on the tank. I re-epoxied it with some PC-7. I cleaned up the mating surfaces of course... So I'll be waiting for that to fully cure for a bit. I want to make sure to give the epoxy it's full cure time.
I can now fully and comfortably grasp the pistol grip, and the cheek weld vs. scope height is about as perfect a fit that I've EVER felt on an AF rifle. Once the PC-7 is done curing, I'm going to finally sight this thing in. Those dang yotes won't know what hit them!
(https://i.imgur.com/jWnJr5h.jpg)
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I like the looks of that angled adapter. Unfortunately, won't work with my MadDog Stock.
What is PC-7?
Mike
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I like the looks of that angled adapter. Unfortunately, won't work with my MadDog Stock.
What is PC-7?
Mike
I'm kicking around the idea of getting a Mad Dog Ranger stock, and having it modified slightly for my gun, and having the butt-stock section removed, like with his Hunter line. I probably won't do it though. I don't want to spend any more money on this rifle, except on ammo! ;D ;D
PC-7 is about the best dang epoxy I've ever worked with. It's thick, doesn't sag, it's really sticky and it cures in 24 hours. Full cure in 48 hrs. No post heat cure needed. I absolutely LOVE it. Easy to mix, 1:1 parts A and B. Sticks to darn near everything. The only truly effective release agent is legitimate mold release. Typical things like shoe polish, Johnson's Paste Wax, or Vaseline are not effective enough with PC-7. I almost ruined my BS4 (FWB 300 clone) stock because I thought Vaseline would be an effective release agent. Luckily I got impatient and tried to remove the trigger guard (I was trying to bed the trigger guard) before the 24 hr cure was up. I did end up chipping the BS4 stock though. :( I really can't praise this product enough.
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I know there are a lot of AirForce gun owners here on the GTA. It seems you love them, or you hate them. I love seeing what people are doing with the platform. Old or new, done or "works in progress", I would love to see what people have done to make the AF platform work. I hope your new tank adapter works out !! I hope it's a crusher and can't wait to see how it turns out.
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Okay- PC-7 has had it's time to fully cure (48 hrs), I've attached the butt plate so now I can fully shoulder the Condor... Yep. This combination feels PERFECT. For me.
I'll say this: I think I got lucky, because the angled adapter came with what I'm assuming to be clocking shims. I simply assembled everything together just to see what would happen, and everything lined up well enough to not need any clocking shims. YMMV. Anyhoo, this is the final combination for this rifle:
- Gorilla 62 cu in 3k psi tank (has to be modified to M18-1.5 thread for Condor valves) w/Doug Noble's buttplate adapter.
- PCPTunes angled tank adapter
- UTG DNT06 Droop mount
- UTG accushot low 1" pic rings
I don't think I've ever been this comfortable shouldering a AF rifle EVER. Now onto sighting her in- I'm happy with 70 fpe...
IF YOU'RE GOING TO TRY TO REPLICATE THIS SET UP, that's on you. I'm not responsible for a thing!
The butt plate adapter should be easy to replicate, it's simply an aluminum disc with a mounting boss that's threaded for an allen screw. Simply epoxy the butt plate adapter to the tank, after getting down to bare metal. Don't forget to rough up the surfaces a bit so the epoxy can have some tooth. The butt plate itself is secured to the butt plate adapter via a countersunk allen screw, and could be shaped however you want for comfort and such...
The tank should be modified by a professional machinist, no if and's or buts. The tank I used is a Gorilla brand, as you can see in the pic. I believe Ninja also made a 62 cu in tank, but I cannot speak on the neck thickness. I don't know if the same tank maker made both Gorilla and Ninja. I don't want to assume and pass bad info. I KNOW the Gorilla brand works, because Doug uses or did use them, has modified them, and told me to buy this specific tank to modify. I'm obviously using one here and it's fine. Check out ebay to find one. Copy the set up at your own risk. I'm NOT telling y'all to do anything. I'm simply showing you what I've done with my rifle.
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Slight update on this Condor build. No changes to the gun itself. However, I really want a 1 piece stock, like a Maddog. I just don't have the coin to drop on a stock all at once, and I want a different design than what he has available. In no way am I knocking Maddog Stocks!! He has some really good designs, just not exactly what I want. Anyhoo, I started this stock build a couple months back and got kinda frustrated with certain aspects of the build. I've just today picked it up again, and decided I'm going to finish this stock, along with the Rapid Mk2 stock I'm working on.
I'm nowhere near done with this pattern... I will be making a mold of it, so I can cast this stock as a solid piece of plastic. Not sure what formulation I'm going to go with yet though. I'm looking at Smooth On stuff currently.
I still need to get a vacuum chamber for the casting resin. Or make one, though prices have come down enough to where it's just faster and more economical to buy one right now. So who knows when I'll get to making the mold and casting one. I'll get it all done this year for sure, just not sure exactly when. Anyhoo, here's some progress pics:
Cut outs for the breech, fill nipple, etc.:
(https://i.imgur.com/LpxaO7T.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nA2MWH5.jpg)
Cut-outs for the power wheel and power meter on the side of a Condor:
(https://i.imgur.com/Ny8AbfW.jpg)
M1913 rail for a bipod:
(https://i.imgur.com/sP2dZlk.jpg)
Just showing the fore grip shape:
(https://i.imgur.com/D4U1Ujo.jpg)
I still need to do more work on this plug, it's not complete. Lots of filling, and such to do. In case anyone is wondering, those grips are KRG Works small or medium (I can't remember) grip panels (for their chassis). The grip panles will be molded into the stock, not removable. I find they're super-comfortable, and the angle is good with the tank. The re-worked Sage EBR fore grip will also be molded in, not removable. As will the section of M1913 for a bipod. All one piece. I've been dreaming of doing something like this for an AF gun for many, MANY years... Anyhoo, just a quick update. I'll keep y'all posted!
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Good to see you Tom. Project is looking good!
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Good to see you Tom. Project is looking good!
Thank you sir! It's good to be working on stuff I enjoy again, even it's a little bit here and there. I ain't goin' nowhere! Y'all are stuck with me! BWAHAHAHAAHAHAHAH ;D
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This is going to sound strange, but I'm not sure where those pictures are, on Imgur... They're not in any of my folders. I was having issues with Imgur yesterday with not loading my image folders, and tried to "backdoor" these pics into one of my folders... yet today (I can get into my folders today), I can't seem to find them. Not sure where they are! Another strange thing, is that I cropped the first pic a bit, yet the changes weren't saved.
I'm going to post them again, just in case Imgur decides to delete the one's linked above. This is really strange...
Cut outs for the breech, fill nipple, etc.:
(https://i.imgur.com/P7UtJrd.jpg)
Right side
(https://i.imgur.com/kq8CMbu.jpg)
Cut-outs for the power wheel and power meter on the side of a Condor:
(https://i.imgur.com/DVzrtUZ.jpg)
M1913 rail for a bipod:
(https://i.imgur.com/9U2k4gh.jpg)
Fore grip shape:
(https://i.imgur.com/ljy3K5S.jpg)
A few notes:
In the first image, you can see "holes" in the trigger guard- Those are drilling mistakes. I have filled them in and smoothed over.
I've ordered some large tubes of JB Weld so I can bed this chassis. I don't feel that I need "normal" bedding epoxy. This is after all, just a pattern. Reason for bedding is because that area where the cut outs are, is very fragile, and need reinforcement... I won't get everything until next week though, so I'll just work on gluing the grips on and such. That will also provide some much needed reinforcement.
Again, I'll post more when I have it.
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Got a little more work done on the stock tonight. I decided that I will glue one grip panel on at a time- it's safer that way ;D Anyhoo, There's a pretty big gap between the grip and the stock. I didn't get a picture of this with the right hand grip panel, but tomorrow I'll snap a pic before I glue the left panel on. I OF COURSE made a mistake cutting the grip panel, with regard to the cut outs for the breech opening and such ::) It's fine, I'll just re-build that section with some epoxy clay. I did reinforce the section with PC-7 though, so at least the area will be stronger. I also started filling in the screw holes in the short section of picatinny rail.
There's no room to put actual screws, so I just decided to fill in where the screws would have gone. It's ugly right now, but once I trim the excess and sand, it'll look much better.
(https://i.imgur.com/XqMgtPu.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/TAJ7kH1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AKcX3Zp.jpg)
I'll post more soon...
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I apologize for all the bad pictures... All I have is my cell phone :(
Anyhoo, I did a little more work on the stock. Still have a ways yet, but at least some progress has been made. The PC-7 from yesterday hasn't FULLY cured, but it's cured enough to handle. It's supposed to take 48 hours to fully cure. Now is the perfect time to do any trimming/clean up, because it's soft enough to easily cut with a razor blade, but I'm not at risk of accidentally pulling the grip panel off- I don't have to be too gentle with it. I can also take off that squeeze clamp too, to work the left side easier.
Here's a shot of the slightly cleaned up picatinny rail:
(https://i.imgur.com/GIMjCNY.jpg)
I'm not sure if y'all can make it out, but I tried to get a pic of the gap between the wood and the grip panels. The gap was the same (maybe a little worse in some spots) on the right side. Just to give you an idea of how bad my work is ;D It looked like a full 1/8th inch gap!
(https://i.imgur.com/PMoBE0h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RkVwEot.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xguIa6g.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Th2LpXd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aUZZTd3.jpg)
When I put the AF frame into the stock, the wood sits flush and tight (tight enough before bedding). So I'm not worried about the gap. The fit between the stock and the frame is more important than the gap between the stock and the grip- as long as the grips are straight up and down, which they are. Anyhoo, more later.
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The PC-7 has hardened enough to take the clamps off, and handle it a bit. I still have A LOT of work left to do for this stock, but wow. I really do wish you guys could feel how comfortable this thing is to grip. I took a few pictures. I just couldn't wait any longer- I had to see what this stock looked like w/all the accouterments finally attached. The EBR fore end isn't glued on yet- it's just slipped on there.
Here you can see the right side is wide open for feeding, the left is closed off:
(https://i.imgur.com/ynxr7ku.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/SLMgsAQ.jpg?1)
Area around the gauge is too tight:
(https://i.imgur.com/HxZ508A.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/uppJwiJ.jpg)
Fill nipple area will probably need to be enlarged a bit:
(https://i.imgur.com/prpvUtl.jpg?1)
I'm happy with this, but between the fore end and the gauge opening will have to be smoothed out a bit:
(https://i.imgur.com/zonmmxx.jpg?1)
This is why the trigger opening is so big:
(https://i.imgur.com/nmRz595.jpg?1)
The stock goes darn near to the end of the frame:
(https://i.imgur.com/0m67Nh2.jpg?1)
So yes, the stock needs A LOT of clean up and more shaping- but I'm getting there. KRG did an AMAZING job with this grip design. I can't praise them enough. It is just so comfortable!! The grip angle is perfection, the thumb shelf on either side... Man, I just LOVE these grips!! This EBR fore end is also quite comfortable! SMH. I can't believe this stock is FINALLY getting done- I've dreamed about something similar to this for so dang long!!
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I did a bit more work today on this stock... I had to really open up the fill nipple side of the grip, as the fill adapter wouldn't fit otherwise. I also shaped up the right side cut outs a bit, as the gauge fit was too tight. I added more material to the section where I cut off too much grip panel (middle section), and also added a bit more material to the front section of the loading port cut out. Oh- and that yellow thing is just a dam to keep the clay in place for when I added some epoxy clay to fill in the beaver tail area. I still haven't added the fore end yet. I want to take my time around the grip/chamber area before moving on to the trigger guard, then the fore end.
Made the middle section thicker:
(https://i.imgur.com/51LRS1G.jpg)
Opened up the fill nipple area:
(https://i.imgur.com/Xfrm2U4.jpg?1)
Initial fill of beaver tail:
(https://i.imgur.com/1WWJDMT.jpg)
As soon as my JB Weld comes in (had to order the big tubes, no one sells them around here), I'll bed the stock using a blank AF frame I have. I should be done with the grip, trigger guard and fore end areas before I get the JB Weld. Not too much longer. The hard part is figuring out how I'm going to make a mold of this thing, and what material to use for the stock...
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No pictures. I decided to glue the fore end on today... I also filled in all the holes in the fore end as well. I'm going to fill the void with some not-so-expandy expanding foam (I think for windows) to fill the cavity before capping the ends with epoxy clay. Anyhoo, more later.
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Okay, slight change... I'm not going to make a mold of this stock... I've been looking at the cost of material for both the mold, and casting resins. Plus the material properties of the available resins across multiple manufacturers doesn't support this design... That's not even considering my severe lack of experience in designing a mold for something this complex :( So this stock is going to stay a one-off... :( :-\ :'( I just can't justify all that money for a stock. Estimated cost of mold making material, mother mold and casting (IF I don't muck it up the on the first go) is around $600+. I just can't do that. I have other projects that need done across many fields (other airguns, powder burners, vehicles, house ::) ).
Enough of the depressing stuff... ANYHOO! I'm to cut off the pic rail, and have decided to go with an over-bore bipod. There's just not enough material to solidly mount a pic rail/bipod. I also just checked that the EBR fore end does indeed fit in my PIG saddle... I'M STOKED!! I now have 2 ways to shoot this beast of a rifle- off a bipod or mounting to a tripod... NICE!!
Anyhoo, I'll keep y'all posted. At this point, I should be done with the stock soon!
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Not too much done, been waiting on stuff to dry, and thinking on how I'm going to do the fiberglass... I've filled in under the fore end section with foam, did some clean up and capped the former open gaps and voids with epoxy clay. Anyhoo, just a few pics to update the thread...
(https://i.imgur.com/sVMFaW5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tHQ7BHU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/oNyxa4B.jpg)
It all still looks pretty rough, but it's getting there. Pretty soon I'll put the first coats of primer down, and we'll really see where we're at with the smoothness and such. I still need to bed the stock too. I haven't decided whether to do that before or after glassing the bare wood... I'm thinking after.
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Not too much of an update- the stock is nearly ready to be "bedded"... I still need to smooth a few places out before I do the bedding though. Also, I was a little off with my front trigger screw :-\ :( It's fixed though. I also decided to add a 3rd screw- where the original fore end goes. I miraculously got the factory fore end screw drilled perfect on the first go, so I've got that going for me... ;D The only issue now is finding screws that are long enough to engage the threads in the frame ::)
I completely forgot that the AF frame has most of the bottom rail removed, whereas my raw extrusion doesn't. Basically, I want (need) to have a filler piece to take up the missing rail in the front of the AF frame. So I did that tonight. I'll glue it in when the bedding is done. Once I'm satisfied with everything, I'll do a few coats of primer, wet sand then throw on some duracoat. Then I can finally put this Condor back together again for the last time. Then confirm zero and do any needed adjustments. I still need to get a bipod ::) BUT THEN I can start working on my dope card. FINALLY.
Side note- with both sides of the grip on, the stock is a touch tight between the tank and grip. But if I use the thumb shelf on the right side, instead of trying to grip the pistol grip, it fits perfectly. I'm still 100% satisfied though! I wouldn't change a thing!
Oh- I also got a neoprene tank cover. That tank is frakin' COLD to rest my cheek on. Supposedly the cover is good for up to a 90 cu in tank. We'll see. This tank is only 73 cu in (I think). The neoprene should be nice and comfy year round. I'll just cut out the back a little so I can attach the butt-plate.
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...This tank is only 73 cu in (I think)...
62 cu in tank, not 73. I don't know why I thought it was a 73 cu in tank.
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I bedded the stock today... Here's to hoping it went well...
(https://i.imgur.com/YRf7foH.jpg)
I didn't take too many pictures though... I feel bad I wasted a lot of JB Weld, but I wanted to make sure I got a good amount of squeeze out. I put JB Weld on the stock, and the AF frame itself. The frame is solidly held in place with the rudimentary inlet that I was able to do, but there's a good size void where the bottom curve of the AF frame is- it's just the way I had to build the stock. I'm hoping the bedding job turns out okay. I haven't had the best of luck with bedding jobs in the past. Not like I can really do anything about it now except wait and see.
Thankfully, I was able to get some screws that will work for all 3 spots locally and without having to buy a large quantity of each one. I did have to cut them all down, but that's a small price to pay. Hopefully I'll be done with this stock soon. I'm not rushing things, but I want to get this done so I can move onto the fun stuff! There's still a bunch of work needed to get it where I'll be happy with it- but we're getting there!
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Well, the bedding job turned out infinitely better than my last attempt... But it's not perfect. I'll need to do a skim coat to correct some flaws. Also, I did NOT anticipate the JB Weld and the painters tape to stick together so well- much to my chagrin. I used painters tape to cover up all the gaps and grooves in the raw extrusion, it was easier than filling with clay. I also wanted a c-hair of space between the frame and stock.
Anyhoo, now I have to get the tape off the JB Weld before I do a skim coat. Also, for whatever reason, I didn't take the bedding job all the way out the the end of the stock- I am really not sure what I was thinking ::) :-\ But it worked out in the end, since I have to do a follow-up layer. THIS TIME I will do a layer of Johnson's Paste Wax, AND spray some mold release.
*sigh* Okay- I admit, there's another reason why I need to do a skim coat. I ended up cracking the stock slightly, around the grip area on both sides :'( :'( It's absolutely salvageable- it's really not that bad. But it will require a follow-up coat to fix. Stupidly, I neglected to put mold release on the extrusion, thinking the painters tape would easily come off the JB Weld ::) Of course, I also forgot to tape off the outside of the stock on the first go around too. I won't forget those two crucial steps this time around... Here's to a successful second attempt! ;D
Here you can see the profile of the inlet when I started out- all right angles:
(https://i.imgur.com/pixffwF.jpg)
A little hard to make out, since everything needs to be cleaned up and smoothed out, but you should be able to make out the curve of the AF frame, instead of all the right angles:
(https://i.imgur.com/5tLW122.jpg)
I know it looks bad now, but after clean up, some more blending and a few coats of primer, it'll look good! I hope! ;D ;D
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Okay- I did it correctly this time!! ;D I did my best to blend the area where the new and old bedding meet. I also took the JB Weld all the way to the end of the stock (muzzle end). Again- I have no IDEA what I was thinking yesterday, not going to the end of the stock in the first place ::) I got a shot of the cracks- and after cleaning it up and looking at it a second time, I can't decide if the fill port side is a crack, or just a flaw in the bedding? Doesn't matter. It's getting fixed. Not many pics during the process, I didn't want to screw up my groove. Here's to hoping for a good tomorrow!!
(https://i.imgur.com/IiT4qWs.jpg)
This side (feed port) is definitely cracked- I superglued the crack back together earlier, then later decided to do a skim coat to fix it. Or at least try to make the area a bit stronger. Hopefully it works
(https://i.imgur.com/9IQUIB0.jpg)
This side (fill nipple side) is questionable- but it too got a skim coat. From this angle, it looks like a crack for sure- but looking at it from other angles, it simply looks like imperfection.
(https://i.imgur.com/AonNjng.jpg)
I did a better job masking the extrusion, and then went over the masked extrusion with paste wax, and just before mixing the JB Weld, I sprayed a layer of mold release. I HOPE that in the next go around, the extrusion will release much more easily with no tape sticking to the JB Weld... *crosses fingers*
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No pictures until tomorrow... The skim coat looks amazing! The combination of was and release agent worked, as the vast majority of the tape released!! I'm happy! No further cracks or damage to the stock! *sigh of relief*
I did find that I missed some damage from yesterday- the trigger guard was cracked ::) As I was carefully spreading it out I was thinking to myself "How am I going to get a superglue tip down there?! The crack is way too-" aaaaaaaand the trigger guard snapped off ::) :-\ ;D Solves that problem, huh? So I glued the trigger guard back on, hence no pictures of the inlet/bedding job.
I'm just happy the extrusion came out w/o too much effort. There was minor clean up, and the fit on the Condor is AMAZING! I'm happy. Almost done!!!
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I really wish companies did their logos smaller... ::) I mentioned that I need a tank cover because the tank is cold in the winter... So I ordered one. Got it today. A couple of points:
- Why would anyone want a zipper on their face? Or rather, why would anyone want the zipper showing? The logo is "upside down".
- Maybe slightly better zipper retention, but we'll see how long it lasts... The velcro doesn't seem very strong, and the contact patch is kinda small.
- Although this tank cover fits, maybe don't advertise that your tank cover will fit over a 80 cu in tank if it JUST fits on a 62 cu in tank (unless of course I'm dating myself in thinking the larger tanks are longer, not so much fatter- chime in if I'm wrong about this assumption).
Other than those small complaints, I'm totally satisfied- it feels amazing on my face, I did have to cut a small hole in the back for the butt-plate, but that was expected. It fits snug and won't rotate on me, and has just the right amount of squish. Color isn't too much of a match for my gun, but I can re-spray the gun if I want to. I'm not really worried about it right now, since I knew the color when I ordered it (they didn't have OD green available when I ordered).
(https://i.imgur.com/cnP99TV.jpg?1)
I'll post pics of the inlet/bedding tomorrow, when the trigger guard is done drying.
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Okay, the JB Weld repair on the trigger guard is set up enough to unclamp it. I took some pictures... The bedding job is much better!! I'm satisfied. I don't even much care about the residual painters tape. I'm not going to touch it anymore. The outside is a different story though... Needs a lot more work. Getting there!!
(https://i.imgur.com/2kstV5t.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0D7UEBF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vbTiCHM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DyhUWEQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Ai6Bij0.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/j80JUR3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BQHhePD.jpg)
It doesn't LOOK very good, but I'm also bad at taking pictures, and I'm sure the lighting is not doing the stock justice. I do have to do some more clean up and filling in a couple spots for sure. I've also decided that I'm going to add some material to the trigger guard to change the shape a little and hopefully add some strength to it. I think (after I do some test strips) that I'm only going to fiberglass the trigger guard area. Then just bondo over the whole thing to blend everything together. Then I can do the final finish work before paint... Almost. Fraking. Done.
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That stock is really coming together Tom. It will look great once you put the final touches on it.
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That stock is really coming together Tom. It will look great once you put the final touches on it.
Thank you sir!! I sure hope so! I'm really trying not to rush it right now- I've made more progress in the past 2 weeks than I have in over 2 months! I surely don't want to mess it up now!
Small update, no pics until tomorrow. I made and glued in a piece to reinforce the rear of the trigger guard area. I'll do the front tomorrow. The space in the trigger guard really is too big, and I'm worried that it might break again in the future. So before I fiberglass, I want to make sure there's significantly more meat in that area. Plus I was never really satisfied with the overall shape of the trigger guard and surrounding area. Speaking of fiberglass, I've decided that I'm just going to fiberglass the trigger guard area and then use Bondo filler to blend everything together. I really just want to finish and paint this stock so I can finally get it on the gun and leave it there! I want to move onto the fun stuff already!!
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Slow and steady wins the race friend.
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Slow and steady wins the race friend.
Believe me, I know! Having to wait for epoxy to dry is excruciating!
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Not too much of an update. I started blending the back piece that I glued in yesterday, and added the front piece today. Here's a pic so far:
(https://i.imgur.com/EQSEwzU.jpg)
I really didn't like how open the trigger area was- it was a ginormous gaping hole with a trigger and safety floating around in it. The angles felt wrong the more I looked at it. It just didn't look right. I wanted to close up the space a bit while adding strength to the trigger guard. I'll get it all blended in and leveled out before sealing in the trigger guard area with fiberglass.
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Okay, some more work done on the stock. Now waiting for PC-7 to dry. I'm thinking I'm just going to use epoxy instead of polyester resin... I'm really leaning towards that. There's a lot of dissimilar materials around the trigger guard, and I don't want to chance the polyester not bonding to it... Epoxy will pretty much stick to everything though...
The trigger now clears the trigger guard- I had to shave some back though, I was off on my sizing before. The safety does clear the trigger guard- Just barely! ;D
Safety on:
(https://i.imgur.com/4Wcz95h.jpg?1)
Safety off- Yes it fully disengages:
(https://i.imgur.com/AaSrlUX.jpg?1)
Did some fillets, because fiberglass doesn't like going around 90* corners:
(https://i.imgur.com/8hdkcaD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/16t8iF8.jpg)
Did a little more clean up around the cut outs:
(https://i.imgur.com/qQMEjzw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2kja1e5.jpg)
Made the power wheel cut-out too big to the front... I'm not fixing it though :-\
(https://i.imgur.com/yVUIlOr.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/ik8lYYv.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/EDb1kEl.jpg?1)
That's it for now... I'll get some more work done tomorrow. I'll wait until Thursday to do the fiberglass... Again- I'm just fiberglassing the trigger guard area- I'm more worried about that area breaking again, than any other part of the stock...
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Well, fiberglassing was an epic failure. I'll have to sand down and re-do it later with proper materials. The fiberglass I have is too thick, as is the epoxy I have. I need lower viscosity stuff. I should be able to sand everything down soon, Oh well... At least I know what DOESN'T work, right? ::) ;D
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Okay, the fiberglassing was not an EPIC failure. Just kind of a failure ;D After clean up, I had enough fiberglass adhesion in the areas of most concern to allay my fears of a weak trigger guard. Add to that, the added material and I feel confident enough to move on. I've added bondo, and will be smoothing it out shortly. I'll soon be throwing on some primer. I'll post more later.
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Quick shot of the stock as one color. It still needs A LOT of work...
Maybe. I'm not sure yet. Perhaps I'll just give it another couple of coats of primer, and wet sand it, then paint it. Not sure yet. I'm going to paint it camo, so maybe I'll bury the imperfections in the black paint of the camo pattern... ::)
(https://i.imgur.com/NwbimQt.jpg?1)
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Getting closer. I've filled some gaps, and tried smoothing out some areas. But I'm not going to do anymore filling/sanding. This is it. It's good enough. I'll sand the primer w/some super fine sandpaper and that's it. I did add the "spacer" for the front of the frame and blended it in before priming.
I'm going to do a "GAP Camo" pattern. Basically it's just a "woodland" pattern that uses black, OD green and tan. The colors are as close as I can get w/Rustoleum Camo paints. It's not going to be an exact match- they use Ceracoat. I've decided I'm not going to go that route. I've masked off most of the inlet, but the wood area will get a coat of primer and black paint. When I PAINT paint the stock, I'll mask off the entire inlet area. But that'll be tomorrow.
(https://i.imgur.com/0j1WDuL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OeJycuL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/apuD2Bq.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pOwGB9l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BeKQKwx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jH04VdY.jpg)
More tomorrow. I think I have enough tape to make stencils of the camo blobs I'll need for painting. I'll see tonight. If I have enough, I'll make the stencils tonight for tomorrow's paint job.
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PAINT!!!
Okay- finally got to painting. Here's some in progress pics:
(https://i.imgur.com/NJENWJ9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/i0uuDDN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yqlzj4F.jpg)
The reveal will be tomorrow. Then I'll re-mask the inlet area and spray the matte clear.
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That looks awesome. I really like how you have figured out the operations that fit with your equipment and expertise to make a stock any way you want it. Very nice. Definitely makes the Airforce guns look more like a "gun" than something a storm trooper would carry.
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That looks awesome. I really like how you have figured out the operations that fit with your equipment and expertise to make a stock any way you want it. Very nice. Definitely makes the Airforce guns look more like a "gun" than something a storm trooper would carry.
Thank you!! My inner perfectionist keeps seeing all the flaws in this stock. But when I get my Texan, I'm going to make another stock, and I now have mental notes to go off of. The next stock will be better!!
Well, of COURSE I don't have any clear coat! ::) ;D ;D So that will have to wait until later today. But the camo pattern is done! Done enough to handle, remove the stencils and take some pics. I couldn't wait until later today to do it. I'm happy with the color combination, not so happy with the pattern. The stencils are hand drawn. I was a little too conservative on the size of the blobs. However, I think this is my new favorite pattern/color combination. Super simple to do!
(https://i.imgur.com/KquvcgR.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/uLAoroc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ojpGyYq.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cgqdF3F.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aTvZe5u.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tWFXd3g.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SDjJ6bV.jpg)
I definitely should have used bigger blobs... Here's a shot of what it's SUPPOSED to look like:
(https://i.imgur.com/KkwT0aT.png)
Oh well. Next time!!
I'm going to wrap the LDC in some camo tape wrap stuff... McNett I think? That way the hard lines get broken up a bit. I'll get the stock onto my Condor after the clear coat gets done. I'm also gonna hit the scope with some paint as well. I'll take pictures of the whole thing then. 'Til then y'all!
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That stock turned out really nice Tom, the camo pattern looks great too. Your like me when it comes to aesthetics. I'm awfully critical of my work but the more hands on experience I get the better my little projects and alterations look. Keep up the great work. I'm anxious to hear and see how this thing shoots for you.
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That stock turned out really nice Tom, the camo pattern looks great too. Your like me when it comes to aesthetics. I'm awfully critical of my work but the more hands on experience I get the better my little projects and alterations look. Keep up the great work. I'm anxious to hear and see how this thing shoots for you.
Much appreciated. Yes- for whatever reason, I'm extremely hard on myself.
The gun shoots VERY well... I sighted it in at 25 yards, and it was getting very tight groups when I did my part. I'm getting right around 70 fpe with the 44 grain pellets. I want to stretch it out to 100 yards, and work on my DOPE card so I can get to laying waste to woodchucks and such with impunity!!!
For the Texan stock build (I'll start a separate thread for it), I'm going to copy a Manners T5A stock profile. Make the "inlet" for the tank much tighter, so the tank is resting on the stock. I'm going to try to keep the same overall profile of the T5A though. I'm kind of excited! I made MANY mistakes with this stock, and I'll probably make many more w/the Texan version. But they'll be DIFFERENT mistakes ;D ;D
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70fpe with that big tank must translate into 100+ shots.
I dont have any airforce experience, but I can share that even with a 17" barrel 75fpe can be a very efficient tune for JSB 44's. With your 20" barrel it should be really easy to go for a large number of shots above 75fpe.
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70fpe with that big tank must translate into 100+ shots.
I dont have any airforce experience, but I can share that even with a 17" barrel 75fpe can be a very efficient tune for JSB 44's. With your 20" barrel it should be really easy to go for a large number of shots above 75fpe.
For sure- the 62 cu in 3k psi tank is definitely worth the extra weight and expense. I really wish there was a CF version of this tank at 4500 psi available for the Texan build. But I'll take what I can get. When doing initial testing, I had already rattled off 60+ shots, and no real noticable drop in velocity readings from the chrony. The gauge at the time wasn't reliable- as I filled the tank up, the gauge face blew off... Not sure if that affects gauge operation though. This replacement gauge is much better. We'll see how many shots I can get. I also want to maybe eek out a little more power, I feel like 75-80 fpe would be a better place for this build. I mean, if 70 fpe is more efficient w/o sacrificing good accuracy, trajectory (I don't want it loopy like a low power .25) and consistency, I'll take the 70 fpe instead. But again- I'm excited to FINALLY move onto tweaking the set up, and making a DOPE card.
The scope is painted, and I was wrong about not having any clear coat. I have 3 cans of matte clear. They just weren't where I normally keep my rattle cans ::) I've already laid on 2 or 3 coats of clear on the stock. I do have to flip the stock over when spraying, so I have to wait about 30 minutes or so between coats to make sure the stock doesn't stick on the work surface. That's why it's taking so long to finish laying the clear. I don't have a way to hang this stock up, or I'd do that. I'm still waiting on that camo wrap stuff from Amazon. That should be in sometime today, so I'll hold off on pics until I get that wrap on the LDC and get the gun all together.
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Well, this isn't a "Tom Project" w/o a major screw up at the very end! ;D ;D ::)
The stock sits too far forward, and the rear stock screw doesn't engage the threads. This also means that the loading port and the power wheel port is a touch off as well. Nothing that will hinder the operation. Since the stock is pushed slightly forward, I can't use a trigger shoe, as now there's not enough room to pull the trigger with it on. So I'll go without. :-[ But, the safety still works, the trigger pulls, and there's 2 screws securing the stock on, so I'm not that worried about it. I may (VERY CAREFULLY) open up that back hole so that I can engage those rear mounting screws. The gauge is still okay, and the fill nipple opening is still good to go. All I need now is to get that over-bore bipod from UTG, and I'll be set. This camo wrap stuff is pretty nice! I kinda like it!
(https://i.imgur.com/ofSq4GN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uNWol22.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/EmafzCp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/c9wNDT2.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/jhDPLyt.jpg?1)
I'll correct my mistakes when the clear coat is FULLY dry, and I've calmed down. I'm pretty upset with myself right now. Anyhoo- I'm glad this project is MOSTLY done for now. I'll update down the road when I get the bipod in and the weather gets a bit better. Thanks all for your kind words!
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UTG over-bore bipod should be here today, I also ordered some dovetail to pic rail adapters, I hope they'll work. Otherwise, I'll have to buy a conversion rail. I also hope that the bipod will clear the LDC...
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Okay, so the bipod came in- Holy frak this thing is substantial!! Seems like a VERY solid bipod!!! Note- it will NOT clear a Clague LDC. You will need to get a riser that is a dovetail to pic rail adapter. If you're not running a larger LDC, or running the LDC threaded onto the muzzle end of the barrel, you'll be fine. I've just ordered a riser/dovetail to pic adapter. It'll be in tomorrow.
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Here's the bipod:
(https://i.imgur.com/06M0AaQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tNfKJjg.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ay6X4EJ.jpg)
The legs do extend and fold of course, and it has 22* pan and 44* of tilt. As you can see in the pic, your adapter will have to have at least 3 slots to clear the mount. Also, the bipod can be disconnected from the mount, and it's easily removed, but is a tight fit when on. Very nicely made so far. We'll see how well it holds up.
Here's the Amazon link:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SGGKNF7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SGGKNF7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
It's pricey, but I don't have a choice w/this stock. I have to run an over-bore bipod, and this seems like a better choice than the AF bipod... It's nearly double the cost though :-\
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Okay- I've fixed the rear hole, so I have 3 screws securing the stock, as planned. I just have to change the screw from a socket head to a cap head. No biggie. Also, I noticed something: The tank is so big, I don't really need a butt-plate. So I took it off. It feels fine... Great even! So that's a plus. I may get another tank cover that's both camo and has a more rubbery no-slip butt section. The brighter tan isn't really jiving with the rest of the gun now. Anyhoo, that's it for updates.
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Okay! My riser/dovetail to pic rail adapter came in today. Let me tell ya, I honestly thought that Fate foiled my plans AGAIN! I mounted the adapter on, and my heart sunk- I thought it would put the bipod in the way of the scope... looked too high. But I tightened everything down and peered through the scope expecting the worst. You know what though? Nothing! Clear line of sight!! I'm amazed! I even have full cant and pan! Everything surprisingly clears!!! I'm calling the project done! Even though the project is done, I'll update with shooting data here.
(https://i.imgur.com/RQ8uLEr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RU4ZyW8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fHgyk0V.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gwW5mxL.jpg)
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No shooting data- been busy with other stuff... I need some relaxation though, so I'm going to make time to shoot. Anyhoo, Something that's been nagging at me about this build is the lack of a trigger shoe. Due to my poor planning, the factory shoe doesn't fit in the trigger well. But either a picture I saw, or perhaps a recent vid on youtube of one of Doug Noble's rifles that fixes my issue! Just use a different trigger shoe. I'm not sure which one he used, but I found a trigger shoe for an old paintball gun. So I put it on. Voila! Problem solved, and the trigger works perfectly fine. Let me tell you- it feels AMAZING!!
(https://i.imgur.com/NW4bbf7.jpg)
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I thought I'd also mention, that over-bore bipod is no longer available from UTG. Not sure why. Seems like a really solid unit... I may have to design a base for it, so I can swap it between a few of my rifles. I'd really like to use this bipod on a Texan build I have planned, and my .257 Condor.