GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Crosman Airguns => Topic started by: Tack Driver 10 on April 30, 2019, 10:39:24 AM
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Been using this 1366 gun for pest control for several years.
Super accurate and very quiet.
Has a 66 tube with a 4" stroke, Challenger barrel, PRod trigger and 766 pump link.
Upgraded with "Max Smoke" valve technology and new piston.
Challenger barrel, 7.9 CPHPs
05 pumps 557 FPS 05.44 FPE 0800 PSI
07 pumps 650 FPS 07.40 FPE 1100 PSI
10 pumps 736 FPS 09.50 FPE 1400 PSI
12 pumps 790 FPS 10.92 FPE 1600 PSI
15 pumps 855 FPS 12.80 FPE 1950 PSI
20 pumps 920 FPS 14.85 FPE 2500 PSI
9.57 H&N Barracuda Hunter Extreme
10 pumps 715 FPS 10.86 FPE 1400 PSI
12 pumps 748 FPS 11.90 FPE 1600 PSI
15 pumps 806 FPS 13.80 FPE 1950 PSI
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You’ve got that one smoking!!
Very very nice.
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Where did you find that 'max smoke' valve?
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That's some good stuff. 8)
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Where did you find that 'max smoke' valve?
I made the valve and piston.
It was an off-shoot of the balanced valve Bob Sterne started.
Basically the balanced valve body minus the BV internals.
Made two balanced valves for a 760 and 1377 seen here:
760:
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=153447.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=153447.0)
1377:
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=153687.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=153687.0)
Might make a balanced valve for the 760 SC.
Here's the concept diagram:
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Can anyone tell me about the stock on this pistol? Is it a Crosman stock or a custom design? If it’s a Crosman item does anyone have a part number?..........thanks.
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Can anyone tell me about the stock on this pistol? Is it a Crosman stock or a custom design? If it’s a Crosman item does anyone have a part number?..........thanks.
He made it himself like he did his valves ;D
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Thx Rick67
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So after my recent foray with two Benjamin 317s, it was time to focus my attention on my Crosman 1366.
I upgraded the valve and piston earlier but there's a few more areas that need attention.
When I built this gun 4 years ago I used a 5" stroke 2100 pump arm on a 4" stroke 66 pump tube.
It worked but the geometry was off so time to get it right before squirrel season.
The 2100 pump link is 2.67" from the main pivot to the link pivot.
I took a 766 pump link and relocated the link pivot to 2.20" from the main pivot.
The difference is .470", or .030" shy of 1/2".
Then took a new 2100 tube and positioned the main pivot for a 10" wood pump arm.
A stock 66 has an 8.5" pump arm for comparison.
This will allow maximum leverage and should be fairly easy to pump even at high pressure.
The NOS 766 pump links are super sturdy and will last a long time.
I have a riddle.
What do you get when you cross a pump shot gun, Benjamin 317 tootsie roll and a grenade?
answer: This Alpha Dog wood pump arm of course, mocked up with the new 2100 pump tube.
Painted black it will be nightmarishly scary........be afraid, be very afraid....LOL
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Way cool.
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Nice work! I like it! ;)
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Always a treat,(and feast for the eyes) to see what you come up with next! Awesome!
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Very nice carbine! 8)
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The rest of the gun is not my style, but I certainly like the new forearm for sure.
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Stained the forearm ebony and will get it painted with bed liner later today.
Drilled a counter bore to accept a plug in poly bumper.
Have a few more items to finish but should get it together over the weekend.
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That is one sexy lil freak of a pumper man...Craig linked me over here, and now I got a question...I can't quite tell but how is that thimble secured in the valve body in the balanced diagrams?
I am working on an easy cracking valve for my 392, and want to do a spool valve, chamber at ATM pressure. Given my limited tooling, venting via stem isn't an option. So I figured perhaps using vented screws to secure the thimble to vent to the dead space between valve wall and tube would be viable. Have you ever tried anything of the sort?
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The thimble floats in the valve body.
Allow a few thousands vertically and horizontally so the thimble can self align.
It's held in by the valve body sections.
The 392 can really use some performance mods, especially in the valve.
I modded a 392 valve awhile ago.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=161042.msg155793139#msg155793139 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=161042.msg155793139#msg155793139)
Not tried the vented screw approach but good luck and a have fun.
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Made a new brass barrel band and got the players together for a photo op.
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Very nice!! I'd like to do something similar soon!!
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God I need to save for a lathe😒
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Made the final parts and assembled the gun without incident.
Holds pressure so should get to chrony it in the morning when it's cooler.
Used duro 90 seals on the piston and valve.
Initial pressure test:
10 pumps 1600 psi
15 pumps 2100 psi
18 pumps 2500 psi
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Dang buddy, you making sure that front end ain't goin nowhere huh?
Loving that front plug though...I'd like to see stainless screws myself, but nobody ever accused me of good taste 😆
Edit: oh my God looks like they are...must be past my bedtime
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Dang buddy, you making sure that front end ain't goin nowhere huh?
Loving that front plug though...I'd like to see stainless screws myself, but nobody ever accused me of good taste 😆
Edit: oh my God looks like they are...must be past my bedtime
The screws are standard black oxide screws that are machined down to fit the tube.
The valve is pinned with 2 screws along with a SS washer pressed onto the back of the valve.
The HD pump link, brass piston and 90 duro seals completes the pump engine.
The idea is to minimize any movement and tube flex in a HD package that will last a long time.
The saying, "They don't make them like they used to." doesn't apply here.
Was able to gain 1/8" more stroke and lowered the valve volume by increasing the black spacer .050".
Ran the gun over the chrony this morning with 7.9 CPHPs.
The numbers in bold are the current results, the numbers in parenthesis are from the initial chrony on page 1.
05 pumps 574 (557) FPS 05.78 (05.44) FPE 0900 (0800) PSI
07 pumps 667 (650) FPS 07.80 (07.40) FPE 1200 (1100) PSI
10 pumps 762 (736) FPS 10.18 (09.50) FPE 1600 (1400) PSI
12 pumps 810 (790) FPS 11.51 (10.92) FPE 1800 (1600) PSI
15 pumps 873 (855) FPS 13.37 (12.80) FPE 2200 (1950) PSI
18 pumps 910 FPS 14.52 FPE 2500 PSI
20 pumps (920) FPS (14.85) FPE 2500 PSI
Got a nice bump up in power and made 2500 psi with 18 pumps vs 20 with the previous test.
With the current pump arm leverage factor and fatty wood fore grip the gun was extremely easy to pump even to 2500 psi.
It felt like I somehow was cheating the system, like playing a video game using the cheat code....LOL
To put this into perspective a 2100 would need a 13" pump arm vs the 11" it has from the factory.
A 1400 would need a 21" pump arm vs the 13" stock pump arm.
Since a 2100 tube was used as the base for this gun, there is room for another 1/2" of stroke with a shorter valve.
That would increase FPS by 25 and a non choked barrel would add another 20 FPS or similar performance to a hot rod 2100.
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Dang buddy, you making sure that front end ain't goin nowhere huh?
Loving that front plug though...I'd like to see stainless screws myself, but nobody ever accused me of good taste 😆
Edit: oh my God looks like they are...must be past my bedtime
The screws are standard black oxide screws that are machined down to fit the tube.
The valve is pinned with 2 screws along with a SS washer pressed onto the back of the valve.
The HD pump link, brass piston and 90 duro seals completes the pump engine.
The idea is to minimize any movement and tube flex in a HD package that will last a long time.
The saying, "They don't make them like they used to." doesn't apply here.
Was able to gain 1/8" more stroke and lowered the valve volume by increasing the black spacer .050".
Ran the gun over the chrony this morning with 7.9 CPHPs.
The numbers in bold are the current results, the numbers in parenthesis are from the initial chrony on page 1.
05 pumps 574 (557) FPS 05.78 (05.44) FPE 0900 (0800) PSI
07 pumps 667 (650) FPS 07.80 (07.40) FPE 1200 (1100) PSI
10 pumps 762 (736) FPS 10.18 (09.50) FPE 1600 (1400) PSI
12 pumps 810 (790) FPS 11.51 (10.92) FPE 1800 (1600) PSI
15 pumps 873 (855) FPS 13.37 (12.80) FPE 2200 (1950) PSI
18 pumps 910 FPS 14.52 FPE 2500 PSI
20 pumps (920) FPS (14.85) FPE 2500 PSI
Got a nice bump up in power and made 2500 psi with 18 pumps vs 20 with the previous test.
With the current pump arm leverage factor and fatty wood fore grip the gun was extremely easy to pump even to 2500 psi.
It felt like I somehow was cheating the system, like playing a video game using the cheat code....LOL
To put this into perspective a 2100 would need a 13" pump arm vs the 11" it has from the factory.
A 1400 would need a 21" pump arm vs the 13" stock pump arm.
Since a 2100 tube was used as the base for this gun, there is room for another 1/2" of stroke with a shorter valve.
That would increase FPS by 25 and a non choked barrel would add another 20 FPS or similar performance to a hot rod 2100.
Don't make em like they used to?
*(&^, I don't think they ever made em like that😁
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What's the next logical move?
My "Chubby" gun is based on a fat (hence the name) 3/4" id MK-177 tube with a similar 4" stroke.
A 3/4" id by 4" stroke is equivalent to a 5/8" id by 5 3/4" stroke.
It's 22 cal with an 18" Air Force (LW) barrel, PRod trigger and is super accurate.
Gets 700 FPS with 10 pumps and 800 FPS with 15 pumps using 14.3 CPHPs.
It's does 915 FPS with a 24" Crosman barrel and 20 pumps.
Need to mod this gun similar to the 1366 with a modified NOS 766 pump link and gauge.
Would like to see 740 and 840 FPS with 10 and 15 pumps with an easy pump effort.
Might be a good project heading into winter.
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What's the next logical move?
My "Chubby" gun is based on a fat (hence the name) 3/4" id MK-177 tube with a similar 4" stroke.
A 3/4" id by 4" stroke is equivalent to a 5/8" id by 5 3/4" stroke.
It's 22 cal with an 18" Air Force (LW) barrel, PRod trigger and is super accurate.
Gets 700 FPS with 10 pumps and 800 FPS with 15 pumps using 14.3 CPHPs.
It's does 915 FPS with a 24" Crosman barrel and 20 pumps.
Need to mod this gun similar to the 1366 with a modified NOS 766 pump link and gauge.
Would like to see 740 and 840 FPS with 10 and 15 pumps with an easy pump effort.
Might be a good project heading into winter.
In my opinion?
Up the ante to 24" af barrel, and maybe a hair more valve volume provided the room? Slightly lower pressure maintaining easy pumping, but enough barrel to capture the magic...but again, no accounting for taste.
Does it gotta stay stubby? I'm told six inches makes a difference 😆
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What's the next logical move?
My "Chubby" gun is based on a fat (hence the name) 3/4" id MK-177 tube with a similar 4" stroke.
A 3/4" id by 4" stroke is equivalent to a 5/8" id by 5 3/4" stroke.
It's 22 cal with an 18" Air Force (LW) barrel, PRod trigger and is super accurate.
Gets 700 FPS with 10 pumps and 800 FPS with 15 pumps using 14.3 CPHPs.
It's does 915 FPS with a 24" Crosman barrel and 20 pumps.
Need to mod this gun similar to the 1366 with a modified NOS 766 pump link and gauge.
Would like to see 740 and 840 FPS with 10 and 15 pumps with an easy pump effort.
Might be a good project heading into winter.
In my opinion?
Up the ante to 24" af barrel, and maybe a hair more valve volume provided the room? Slightly lower pressure maintaining easy pumping, but enough barrel to capture the magic...but again, no accounting for taste.
Does it gotta stay stubby? I'm told six inches makes a difference 😆
I see where you're going with this.
What red blooded American male would turn down an extra 6", whether they could use it or not ....LOL
Realistically, I like the form vs function of the gun as is.
It's 39" long with the 18" barrel and reasonably quiet with the 6" can.
A 24" barrel without the can would be the same length but be very loud.
A reasonable compromise is to cut down the 24" to 21" and have a 42" gun with a can like my 1366.
It's legal to shoot where I am but the neighbors get restless and I've been visited by the Sheriff on a few occasions.
Nothing they can do since I'm a responsible shooter (most of the time).
Not a problem since I went covert and made a bunch of silencers for my shooters.
I have a nice piece of 2" square black walnut that I can use for the wood pump grip similar to the 1366.
It would match up nice with the black walnut and red oak stock currently on the Chubby.
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What's the next logical move?
My "Chubby" gun is based on a fat (hence the name) 3/4" id MK-177 tube with a similar 4" stroke.
A 3/4" id by 4" stroke is equivalent to a 5/8" id by 5 3/4" stroke.
It's 22 cal with an 18" Air Force (LW) barrel, PRod trigger and is super accurate.
Gets 700 FPS with 10 pumps and 800 FPS with 15 pumps using 14.3 CPHPs.
It's does 915 FPS with a 24" Crosman barrel and 20 pumps.
Need to mod this gun similar to the 1366 with a modified NOS 766 pump link and gauge.
Would like to see 740 and 840 FPS with 10 and 15 pumps with an easy pump effort.
Might be a good project heading into winter.
Ooo That’s even better. I’m liking it a lot now.
Function is a big deal for me also. I like my longer airguns but I prefer a shorter length when lugging it around the backyard.
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How silly of me to leave out a very important feature of the new wood pump arm.
It's the new and exciting plug and play bumper technology and will keep you stealthy as you pump to your hearts content.
This one is a duro 50 poly bumper........looks like a gummy candy....LOL
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How silly of me to leave out a very important feature of the new wood pump arm.
It's the new and exciting plug and play bumper technology and will keep you stealthy as you pump to your hearts content.
This one is a duro 50 poly bumper........looks like a gummy candy....LOL
Ooohh..I want! Is it prefabricated or lemme guess.... you made it like every thing else?
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How silly of me to leave out a very important feature of the new wood pump arm.
It's the new and exciting plug and play bumper technology and will keep you stealthy as you pump to your hearts content.
This one is a duro 50 poly bumper........looks like a gummy candy....LOL
Ooohh..I want! Is it prefabricated or lemme guess.... you made it like every thing else?
Right, made it from 3/8" red poly round stock.
Think of it as a cherry flavored muffler for your air gun.
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Can a max smoke valve be purchased? Looking to increase power in my 1300KT
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Can a max smoke valve be purchased? Looking to increase power in my 1300KT
The Max Smoke valve requires modification to the pump tube and trigger frame.
The forward mounting screw for the trigger frame is moved back and the tube drilled and tapped to receive the screw.
I tapped the tube for a 6-48 gun screw, the regular screw is a dummy that is glued in.
This is required since the check valve is moved forward.
Fresh off the press, there's a new version of the Max Smoke Valve.
It's called the Max Smoke Pro, soon to be released.
Here's an artists rendition and you can see the progression from the stock valve to the Pro.
It "gets the junk out of the trunk" making the exit path shorter and more efficient.
Here's a sneak peek, look for it soon at a forum near you.....LOL