GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Crosman Airguns => Topic started by: wll2506 on February 15, 2019, 11:30:20 PM
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I installed the Mac1 Mount, put on rings and installed a Butt Stock Pouch !!! The scout/handgun scope arrives on Tue the 19th :- )
I will shoot her tomorrow after I give her a good oiling, as of right now she feels a little rough and not oiled from the factory.
I will use a Q Tip and acetone to get any paint out of the barrel. The gun feels very nice and solid for sure. From the looks of the scout mount, It will be very fast target acquisition for sure, a real plus !!!!
I may make some parts modifications although they may not improve velocity, but will improve the guns longevity !
Here is a pic sans scope done this evening. More info to come tomorrow after shooting ;- )
(https://photos.imageevent.com/wlleven/k10dtest/downloadphotos/Benjamin%20392%201%20sm.png)
BTW: What is the best way to move the rear sight up another 2 inches without scratching the barrel ??
wll
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What a beautiful looking rifle! Congrats.
I wish I could enjoy pumpers like some people do. I just enjoy Springer a lot more. I don't know why. It can't be the rate of fire because I love shooting muzzleloaders and a muzzleloader is much much slower to shoot than a pumper.
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I think you will find that you need a slight comb riser.
Glad you like the gun.
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Hhhmmm, I posted earllier on the original thread that got moved here, don’t know what happened to the post lol, but here goes again.
Congrats on your new 392. It’s looking good the way your setting it up.
Gotta ask though lol, is the front sight on yours straight, or does it lean to one side?
The reason I ask is that mine has a slight lean to the left.
I was hoping that’s been corrected along with the paint overspray in the bore on the latest ones?
I removed my rear sight with a wood dowel for a punch and a rubber hammer. I drove it backwards an inch or two till it popped off.
It did’nt scratch the paint on my bbl., but I would’nt guarantee that it won’t on the next one lol.
Think i’m Going to switch my scope base to the mac1 like yours.
I’ve got the high over the breech inter mounts on mine. They work, but I had to mount the scope as far back over the stock as I could to get a good cheek weld.
Looking forward to some accuracy reports on yours.
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William.......That Is Very Nice Rifle ! ;) You are going to have a good hunting & shooting set up.
Best Wishes - Tom
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I use the Sheridan hand guard to position the Mac1 mount. this give you just the right amount of eye relief for a pistol scope & the right position for your free hand while cycling the gun.
It's best to remove the rear sight all together. Best done by using a narrow piece of hardwood & a rubber mallet or a finish hammer with caution. Tap on the rear sight until the metal shims clear.
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Well removal of the rear sight was OK, but I did not realize there are two shims underneath the rear sight itself keeping things tight.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/wlleven/k10dtest/downloadphotos/Benji%20Rear%20Sight%20sm.png)
After removing the rear sight and giving the gun a good going over with some Mac1 Secret Sauce, she seems a bit smoother ... this gun was dry as a bone coming from Crosman (where I ordered it from last Friday). I also moved the scope mount about 2 inches forward and this should give me a good hold while pumping, really looking forward to getting the scope this upcoming Tuesday, and yes, this little gun takes some pumping power ... it is no Daisy 880 for sure ;- )
I'm playing with the gun indoors so I have no chrno that will work and my small airgun barrel chrno won't fit on the Benji barrel pump tube guns.
Going back to playing with her some more.
wll
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^^^Piece of cake ha? Just wait til you have to remove the two roll pins at the muzzle end. That'll test your nerves. ;)
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^^^Piece of cake ha? Just wait til you have to remove the two roll pins at the muzzle end. That'll test your nerves. ;)
Test my nerves ... What nerves ? They say patients is a virtue, well guess what, I have no patients or virtue ;- )
While we are on the subject of my nerves ;- ) . what low mount rings are you guys using, the low mount rings I have are not that low, so I just bought some lower ones, but the lowest are the low Picatinny rings but I don't want to spend the $ for the small adapter to fit the 3/8" dovetail..
What rings do you guys use ?
wll
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These in medium will get you as low as you need to go.
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These in medium will get you as low as you need to go.
Thank you Marty ;- )
wll
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No problem. Their a bit pricey although there is quite a range in price on the bay. Shop around for the lowest price. What me & others have said about the Mac1 mount; "None better", applies here as well to these rings... IMHO.
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The rollpins are a beast to remove. I drove them out with a hammer and punch. Took a WHACK to get them started. You need to do this soon and clean the pumptube. Other than those darn pins, the gun is easy to break-down.
That's cool the sights can be removed. However, after reading the original thread, I dumped my scope and went back to the stock sights. At 10 yards today, I was popping paintballs; at 15 yards, I was driving them through a 1" hole. I added some white paint to my sights to help with vision.
Can anyone tell me the effect of moving the sights fore/aft? Is there some rule of thumb when setting up movable sights like these?
1. Pump gun 8 times
2. Dry-fire gun
3. Dry-fire again
There should be *no* air from the gun on the second shot. If there is, you aren't "dumping all the air". Mine will take 7 pumps; others report 10+ pumps. If you get a full dump of 8 pumps, you can try additional pumps till you stop getting a full dump.
Gotta ask though lol, is the front sight on yours straight, or does it lean to one side?
The reason I ask is that mine has a slight lean to the left.
I was hoping that’s been corrected along with the paint overspray in the bore on the latest ones?
My sights are straight. Still had overspray.
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I like your set up and the wood grain on your gun looks nice ! :o....
My scope set up ..like I said , I like shooting the gun with the open sights , I took it off and made some adjustments so it dos not crack the solder....
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Gotta ask though lol, is the front sight on yours straight, or does it lean to one side?
The reason I ask is that mine has a slight lean to the left.
Sorry I did not answer earlier :-(
No, my rear sight blade was perfectly level.
I may reinstall after I find the scope mount position in case the scope should go south in a time of need :-)
wll
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After using "Secret Sauce" and shooting about 15+ shots the gun is pumping and shooting nice, but I have a question ? Even though I lubed all the moving parts and the piston seal, I did put a small drop of "Sauce" in the air vent hole, not anywhere near the amount that would clog the valve, but a drop to fully coat the compression walls. I pumped the gun up a few times with the barrel facing down to minimize oil getting into the valve and shot her a few times. The pumping was much, much smoother after I did that !
Anyone else put a drop or two into the air hole and then work the gun ?
Just want your guys opinions ?
wll
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After using "Secret Sauce" and shooting about 15+ shots the gun is pumping and shooting nice, but I have a question ? Even though I lubed all the moving parts and the piston seal, I did put a small drop of "Sauce" in the air vent hole, not anywhere near the amount that would clog the valve, but a drop to fully coat the compression walls. I pumped the gun up a few times with the barrel facing down to minimize oil getting into the valve and shot her a few times. The pumping was much, much smoother after I did that !
Anyone else put a drop or two into the air hole and then work the gun ?
Just want your guys opinions ?
wll
Yes every year /6 months depending on use..6 drops in front uf the pump cup..then dry fire with 2/3 pumps.. 6 /7 times to get most of the oil out of the valve..you want some oil in there or it will corrode inside the valve..crosman switched back to a brass valve ,the aluminum valve corroded vary fast ..what you don't want to do is put oil in there then pump it up to much or fire a pellet. this can damage the valve. How I don't know somthing to do with air displacement and oil igniting under pressure..
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Put on an old, but very good Bushnell 4 x12 and played around. Well, the traditional scope mounting system with a rifle scope IMHO is not the way to go, glad I decided on the scout type system .... pumping it like this is a PITA for sure ;- ) I'm SOOOO looking forward to Tuesday when the scout scope arrives ;- )
She shot pretty well and she is getting the "burrs" knocked off the rough edges a bit. I think I will grind off the bolt de-cocking block on the trigger, as I always used to cock the gun pump her up, put a pellet in and then de-cock the gun before I went into the woods ... To me it was much, much safer then a safety and it uncompressed the hammer spring.
Here she is by the bathroom door, waiting to go to the bathroom ;- )
(https://photos.imageevent.com/wlleven/k10dtest/downloadphotos/392%20Bushnell%20sm_3.png)
Here is a pic of a three shot group from 15yds with Piranhas, 3 pumps .. not the best, but OK for the conditions I was in with a makeshift chair rest ;- )
The white dot is 7/16" Shot at 4 power as more power really narrows the view as the eye relief is short. Shot into Duct Seal.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/wlleven/k10dtest/downloadphotos/392%2015yd%203%20Shots%20sm.png)
wll
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Put on an old, but very good Bushnell 4 x12 and played around. Well, the traditional scope mounting system with a rifle scope IMHO is not the way to go, glad I decided on the scout type system .... pumping it like this is a PITA for sure ;- ) I'm SOOOO looking forward to Tuesday when the scout scope arrives ;- )
That pretty much sums it up. The only thing I had to get use to after using the traditional mounts all these years on my powder burners was the field of view. That didn't take long though. Now the traditional scopes seem odd. ;)
I have to ask; what on earth is that back stop you shot into?
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Put on an old, but very good Bushnell 4 x12 and played around. Well, the traditional scope mounting system with a rifle scope IMHO is not the way to go, glad I decided on the scout type system .... pumping it like this is a PITA for sure ;- ) I'm SOOOO looking forward to Tuesday when the scout scope arrives ;- )
That pretty much sums it up. The only thing I had to get use to after using the traditional mounts all these years on my powder burners was the field of view. That didn't take long though. Now the traditional scopes seem odd. ;)
I have to ask; what on earth is that back stop you shot into?
That is Duct Seal.. I have about 12ea 1 lb sticks that are in a large baking tray and use stick on dots as targets. The Duct Seal stops pellets in their tracks and makes no sound. You can shoot in your house forever, just pull the pellets out after about 20 shots or so and push the seal around to make the surface a bit even and fill in the pellet holes. This target has been shot a whole bunch.
I like it for use when I need a target where the pellets are not going to splatter, bounce out or ricochet... like in my office building.
This target is about 2" thick and will stop a 800fps 22 cal gun at 15 or so yds if you changed your aiming point after a couple of rounds. I would not use it for my Airforce Condors or my 22 cal Career's ... these are powerful guns and for outside use only. I use mine for guns up to 700 fps with no problem .. I mostly use it if I can't get outside and want to get my sights lined up.
It is used a lot for 177 cal target guys shooting 10m in there basement ... nice an quiet.
wll
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I use the Sheridan hand guard to position the Mac1 mount. this give you just the right amount of eye relief for a pistol scope & the right position for your free hand while cycling the gun.
It's best to remove the rear sight all together. Best done by using a narrow piece of hardwood & a rubber mallet or a finish hammer with caution. Tap on the rear sight until the metal shims clear.
+1
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Going to have to give that Duct Seal a shot, or two. Some pretty stout stuff. I've shot up so many cardboard boxes stuffed with magazines & it gets old, so to speak. ;)
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Going to have to give that Duct Seal a shot, or two. Some pretty stout stuff. I've shot up so many cardboard boxes stuffed with magazines & it gets old, so to speak. ;)
I learned about it from Robert Laws of Air Rifle Headquarters fame in the 60’s, and later from Robert Beeman. It is great stuff, shooting boxes stuffed with ?, wooden boards, are over,
A good .22 cal trap is nice, but loud and you can still have ricochets!
I think you will like it.... I will try to post pics when I get home if it is not raining !
wll
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Here is a pic of my baking tray filled with Duct Seal .. It is ~11" wide x ~16" long x ~2' deep. I have it this big so I won't miss, I usually start out by shooting 5+ yards to see where I am, and make adjustments and then move back. Where I live I can not afford to miss !!!
It is on an old tile coffee table just because I did not want to set it on the rainy ground ;- )
(https://photos.imageevent.com/wlleven/k10dtest/downloadphotos/Duct%20Seal%20Tray%20sm.png)
wll
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Nice looking gun William, please stop posting pictures of it. I will blame it on you if I have to buy a B-392 for myself, dang enablers on this site!
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Nice looking gun William, please stop posting pictures of it. I will blame it on you if I have to buy a B-392 for myself, dang enablers on this site!
LOL, LOL ...What you need, What you want ... LOL, LOL
wll
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Here is a pic of my baking tray filled with Duct Seal .. It is ~11" wide x ~16" long x ~2' deep. I have it this big so I won't miss, I usually start out by shooting 5+ yards to see where I am, and make adjustments and then move back. Where I live I can not afford to miss !!!
It is on an old tile coffee table just because I did not want to set it on the rainy ground ;- )
(https://photos.imageevent.com/wlleven/k10dtest/downloadphotos/Duct%20Seal%20Tray%20sm.png)
wll
Thanks for the pic. Great idea with the shallow cooking tray.
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Anyone try rubber mulch for a backstop? I made one using a cardboard box. Used a towel to cover the bottom then filled it with rubber mulch. Works great. Stops even the hardest shooters. Haven't try this but I read that to clean out the pellets you dump the mulch into a bucket of water. The mulch floats and the pellets sink to the bottom.
Here's a wooden one:
https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/rubber-mulch-shot-box-plans/ (https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/rubber-mulch-shot-box-plans/)
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I think both the rubber mulch & Duct Seal would work great with a slight edge given to the mulch. I say this because the Duct Seal holds onto the pellets & much time would be spent clearing them out for future rounds.
The set up in the link above is VERY nice, however the 1/4" plyboard can get costly. In either case I think a cardboard face, replaced as needed in order for clean marks for match type shooting.
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I like rubber mulch because I want to get into casting one day.
All you are really paying for is the mulch. I just get a free cardboard box and shoot it. When the face is blown out, I either get another box, or cut the face off a cereal box, tape it on and shoot again.
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I like rubber mulch because I want to get into casting one day.
All you are really paying for is the mulch. I just get a free cardboard box and shoot it. When the face is blown out, I either get another box, or cut the face off a cereal box, tape it on and shoot again.
I use rubber mulch and a cat litter bucket. The big plastic tubs. 2 bags completely fills these tubs. Cut a small hole, cardboard in the hole to retain mulch, and pin paper targets on the cardboard.
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I like rubber mulch because I want to get into casting one day.
All you are really paying for is the mulch. I just get a free cardboard box and shoot it. When the face is blown out, I either get another box, or cut the face off a cereal box, tape it on and shoot again.
Agreed. Rubber mulch is cheap and works great. Searched and found the link I used to make my rubber mulch shooting box.
https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2015/04/worlds-best-pellet-trap/ (https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2015/04/worlds-best-pellet-trap/).
Scroll down to see the mulch box. It actually stopped .22LR and .223 @ 50yds. I used the same bag of Vigoro rubber mulch. $6.97 @ Home Depot.
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I did a test of the duct seal, 1" layer with thick plywood backing, did stop a 115 gr 357 bullet shot at 800 FPS at 10 yards. second shot stacked and went through 8)
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Called Crosman today and ordered some extra parts for the 392 ..... springs, seals that kind of stuff. May do another order next week after I look this order over to see if I left anything out. The piston seal was the most important thing, bought two extra triggers too as I will modify those so I can de-cock the bolt when I'm hunting (for me, a very important safety feature besides the fact of de-compressing the hammer spring).
Also ordered more JSB 18.1 gr pells for this gun as I use them a lot in other guns and they will be put to good use in this gun too. They have a very good BC, yet will give enough velocity for a 25yds sight in and a 1.5" drop at 35yds, and about a 2.5" drop at 40 yds .... assuming my velocity is in the 575 fps range.
A bit later I will be buying the main parts used in the Steroid modification ... not so much for extra power, but for longevity of the gun.
wll
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William, the 392 can’t be de-cocked from the factory?
Also, why not just order all your parts from Mac-1? Aren’t most of Tim’s parts more robust than OEM?
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William, the 392 can’t be de-cocked from the factory?
Also, why not just order all your parts from Mac-1? Aren’t most of Tim’s parts more robust than OEM?
Yes, that is why I ordered anther trigger so I can grind off the top interference section with the bolt.
wll
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Hmmm. I thought you just had to hold the bolt back while you squeezed the trigger to de-cock it.
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Just got my NcStar 2.5x30 scope in, the eye relief is perfect for the scout scope mounting. The scope is very light weight and small IMHO, perfect for the 392 ;- ) I will mount this on the gun the minute I get home ... I'm excited ... I will be shooting it this weekend for sure !!
(https://photos.imageevent.com/wlleven/k10dtest/downloadphotos/NcStar%20sm.png)
wll
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Hmmm. I thought you just had to hold the bolt back while you squeezed the trigger to de-cock it.
No, once cocked it will stay cocked until shot.. There is a lift arm that stops you from de-cocking ... that section must be ground down so the bolt can be let down and the gun de-cocked. IMHO a very bad feature for they guys that know what they are doing.
This feature was put in so the gun has to be fired and no chance of a pellet being left in the barrel, then cocked, pumped up and shot. I think it was a lawyer type modification !!!
wll
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William, thanks for the info. I had no idea the newer models were like that.
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Just got my NcStar 2.5x30 scope in, the eye relief is perfect for the scout scope mounting. The scope is very light weight and small IMHO, perfect for the 392 ;- ) I will mount this on the gun the minute I get home ... I'm excited ... I will be shooting it this weekend for sure !!
(https://photos.imageevent.com/wlleven/k10dtest/downloadphotos/NcStar%20sm.png)
wll
That's going to be one sweet looking setup!
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Well here she is now, this NcStar 2.5x30 scope is just perfect in that the scope has large eye relief zone. I set it up like this because it gives me enough area to pump comfortably, yet the balance of the gun is good. Keeping both eyes open, looking at the target and the target appears in the scope ... that fast, no trying to find your quarry ... one of the HUGE advantages of a scout scope method of aiming. It is just great on my 45-70's ... the fastest target acquisition I have ever had !!!
(https://photos.imageevent.com/wlleven/k10dtest/downloadphotos/392-2%20sm.png)
I found this scope after reading reports on every inexpensive pistol, scout scope I could .. this one has gotten great revues. After putting it on this gun, I ordered TWO more of these scopes to go on other guns, including a little lever action 44 carbine I have ;- ) Got them for just under $39 from Amazon. The rings are medium height, but I ordered a set of low height, that if are 1/8"+ lower, will be installed.
The scope is only 2.5 power, yet it is perfect for close quarter ranges IMHO.
The only thing I have next is to figure out a nice sling arrangement .. and that I will do ;- )
The pouch will carry, small lens cloth, a tin of pellets, and some "Secret Sauce" or 30 WT ND oil !
wll
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This is a beautiful rifle. I hope it shoots as good as it looks.
You're making me want to play with my 392. It's currently stock. The only thing I did was remove the paint from the muzzle.
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Very nice William. Looks like it was well worth the wait. Enjoy!
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Just a suggestion...Move your Mac-1 mount more forward so that the scope's eye piece would be even with where the rear leaf sight was originally. It'll give you a better hand hold for pumping while allowing you to take advantage of the pistol scope's long eye relief.
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I agree Dave. That's the whole purpose behind the Scout Mount. Although something about better balance which makes sense. I guess whatever works. ;)
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Just a suggestion...Move your Mac-1 mount more forward so that the scope's eye piece would be even with where the rear leaf sight was originally. It'll give you a better hand hold for pumping while allowing you to take advantage of the pistol scope's long eye relief.
#1. :D
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Good looking rifle and scope combo you have there.... congrats!
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I very well may move the scope down an inch or so but no more..As it sits right now I can pump the gun just fine (yes if it was moved a bit forward it would be a bit more comfortable to pump, I will admit) but the gun feels great in my hands, not at all front heavy. If there was an issue with getting on target, bad eye relief or ?, I never would have set the gun up like I did.
The lower mounts that I get on Friday may make a difference, where I will need to move the mount forward a bit (where the eye piece is right in front of the loading port), I can see that happening, but I don't see where I would move it much more than that as I very much like the sight picture as it is now. Just shouldering the gun with both eyes open and looking at the target puts the target in the scope ;- )
Another reason I like the mount where it is, is because it is right next to the breech area, which is very strong area, I feel the brazing is stronger there than near the middle of the gun. Moving a little bit to move the eye piece in front of the loading port is still going to be structurally sound I feel. (I could be wrong in this assessment of keeping the mount near the breech block, but that is just the way I feel)
And the last thing has nothing to do with the shoot ability of the gun, but gun storage in a soft case. With the scope far down I had trouble getting the gun all the way in case because the scope is positioned in an area that is not meant for a scope ... much lower than normal. Sounds funny, but it is something I look at.
Most of my guns are set up with very particular shooting purpose in mind and this gun is not different, I will forgo a tiny bit of pumping comfort for ease of shoot ability and feel. I'm a nut on feel, balance and looks.
When the new lower rings come in I will see where the mounts final position will be, I honestly think it will be moved up like I said, as that eye piece clearing the loading port will ad in pumping comfort and pellet loading accessibility.
wll
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William, I know what you're saying about trying to fit a scout scoped rifle into a regular soft case. I had to buy a tactical soft case to fit my 342s & 'Dans.
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Again, whatever works but you will find with a LOT of shooting your hand will dig into the loading port which after a while can get pretty uncomfortable. I don't have enough Sheridan hand guards to go around but whichever gun I'm using at the time gets one.
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Well my low rings and gun case arrives tomorrow, I'm excited ;- )
I don't know if I should bring the 392 into work so I can fix her up at lunch time for a Saturday shoot or not ? I just hope the low rings are a noticeable bit lower than the ones I have on there now, as nobody at work cares as we all are involved in shooting sports and such.
SIDE BAR: Has anyone used the Crosman 392 split mounts ? I question their stability but I very much like how low they are to the bore ! My mounts and scope ring combo as they are now are about 2" center line to center line ... and that is pretty high.
wll
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Those split mounts actually promote barrel separation because they wedge themselves between the barrel & compression tube.
You've already got the best mount on the market. Roll with it!
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Those split mounts actually promote barrel separation because they wedge themselves between the barrel & compression tube.
You've already got the best mount on the market. Roll with it!
+1
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Those split mounts actually promote barrel separation because they wedge themselves between the barrel & compression tube.
You've already got the best mount on the market. Roll with it!
Thanks buddy for confirming what I thought !!!!
wll
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Those split mounts actually promote barrel separation because they wedge themselves between the barrel & compression tube.
You've already got the best mount on the market. Roll with it!
Thanks buddy for confirming what I thought !!!!
wll
I have those mounts. They are really bad. One bonus for them is that I can still use the iron sights under the scope. It kinda turns the iron sights into peep sights.
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Well I have been playing around with mounts, rings etc, etc and so far, not really pleased, the bore height is just way to high. The lower height rings were 3/8" and did not fit the rail correctly (non reversible). I bought a pair of Benjamin Intermounts (an absolutely horrible design) and decided to give those a try with the lower rings.
Well besides the fact that the design is horrible and tightening the rinds, loosens the mount, my head position is absolutely perfect and target acquisition is much, much better.
So what am I going to do to make this mounts doable ... well I'm adding a layer of very, very, very strong, very thin double face tape (UHB) that will absolutely stop any movement of these rings without undue force on the barrel compression chamber joint. Changing to this system, lowered my scope about .500 and that is huge ! now the scope does not feel as if it is a sail ready to get caught on everything.
Here is a pic as the gun sits now.. Tomorrow the tape will be applied and I'll see how she does ... hopefully OK. The much lower mounting system on these guns really needs to be made. If we were not so busy at work, I'd have my guys make a low mount.using a Picatinny rail system so low rings could be used.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/wlleven/k10dtest/downloadphotos/Change%20sm.png)
wll
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Well, I said they are bad mounts.
I added some tape betwixt the mounts and barrel to help with the whole thing.
As I have said, I *hate* this setup. I'll grab a mount like the Mac1 and move my scope back and mount it more symmetrically.
Can anyone tell me about the little metal plate opposite the bolt?
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Well, I said they are bad mounts.
I added some tape betwixt the mounts and barrel to help with the whole thing.
As I have said, I *hate* this setup. I'll grab a mount like the Mac1 and move my scope back and mount it more symmetrically.
Can anyone tell me about the little metal plate opposite the bolt?
I think your talking about the plate that covers the bolt lug. If I remember right, the lug has to be unscrewed from the bolt to remove the bolt from the reciever, or to replace the lug, which is just a Allen screw if I remember it right.
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That’s the cam plate. It is also how you adjust the tension for the bolt. If you flip the bolt into the up position, then tighten the screws, it will snug up the bolt.
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That’s the cam plate. It is also how you adjust the tension for the bolt. If you flip the bolt into the up position, then tighten the screws, it will snug up the bolt.
+1 & if you ever decide to remove the cam plate, to remove the screw, to remove the bolt, be careful because there is probably spring with a ball bearing that will go airborne if you don't cradle it while removing the bolt.
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Well, I said they are bad mounts.
I added some tape betwixt the mounts and barrel to help with the whole thing.
As I have said, I *hate* this setup. I'll grab a mount like the Mac1 and move my scope back and mount it more symmetrically.
Can anyone tell me about the little metal plate opposite the bolt?
I agree, these mounts are not well designed ... Can you imaging making a design that when you tighten the rings, that action can loosen the mount on the gun ----- REALLY, REALLY !!
Yes, I will figure out a way to make it work, but very, very, very few customers would do that !!
SIDE BAR : I have three different types of double face tape that I will try tomorrow, One is a UHB general use tape, the other is a water proof flexible tape that is used to make sails, and the third is a bit thicker double face tape that is water proof yet flexible. All are very high quality products. Depending on the outcome I will give you guys the product number so if you decide to use this mount, you can make it work without slipping or separating the barrel from the compression tube.
Crosman needs to start making some quality stuff, they need to pick up there game as the airgun market is getting bigger and bigger and more and more competitive. If Crosman does not see what is happening in the airgun world, they better start ... this is not the '60's, 70's, '80's or 90's. In today's universal world internet market, if you come out with a sub standard product, the first review that gives it a thumbs down, you are dead in the water BEFORE your product has hit the dealers shelves. The whole world knows about it in a matter of minutes ... You better do your homework for sure !!
An example would be a gun that I love but needed a Generation 2 to make it right ... The Fortitude .. a super gun that needed some more thought before it was brought to market. .. I'm personally looking forward to the release of the Gen 2 gun as I NEED the upgrades to my first generation Fortitudes.
So much for my rant .. and yes, I'm a big Crosman fan, I just want to see a bit more quality and thought go into some of there products ;- ).
wll
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Put double face tape on the inside of the mounts where it lays on the compression tube and where the mount comes in contact with the barrel and put then on, just snug enough to where the tightening screw stops as this is giving full compression to the tape ... these mounts now do not budge, if you loosen the tightening screw you would have to peel the mounts off the compression tube and barrel !!
The proximal mount is 2.250 from the receiver and the distance between the mounts is 2 inches I sighted the gun in using 4 pumps at 12 yards and she was laying them in there ;- ) Yes, I still have to swab out the bore. The rings I'm using are pretty much cr@p too, they are B-Square #27052 low 22/airgun mounts and they are made for 3/8" dovetail only ... 11mm will not work, these are non adjustable. For my application on the Benjamin Inter-mount that is designed for 3/8" rings ... IT WORKS WELL.. Never before in my life have I put two POS's together and have something come out working !!, but I really don't think it would have worked without the double face tape. I used some left over Duraco # 46650 double face tape that is about 1" wide and 8mil thick I believe. I'm darn sure that I could have gone to one of the big hardware outlets and got some 3M picture frame hanging double face and it probably would have been better ... that stuff is awesome !!
Pic of mounts and rings below.
(https://photos.imageevent.com/wlleven/k10dtest/downloadphotos/Benji%20Mounts%20sm.png)
wll
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I don’t like any mounts on the market as well. Why doesn’t anyone build something simple like these? They can be tightened without damage as there is only .002” squeeze. 1 inch scope tube .
1 1/4 center to bore center.
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I don’t like any mounts on the market as well. Why doesn’t anyone build something simple like these? They can be tightened without damage as there is only .002” squeeze. 1 inch scope tube .
Yes, those are beautiful, simple, clean and no problems for sure... did u make those ? Those are perfect. If someone made something like that and sold them at a reasonable price, they would become the mount of choice for the Benji and Dan guns !
wll
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That’s actually a good idea Charles. Why doesn’t someone? We’ve got lots of machinists on the GTA.
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I don’t like any mounts on the market as well. Why doesn’t anyone build something simple like these? They can be tightened without damage as there is only .002” squeeze. 1 inch scope tube .
I agree...that is a very nice design. You should run with it.
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Yep :D all I would want to know is how much for a set of those!!!
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I've used the Benjamin B272 mounts on four or five guns and have never had a problem with them. I have a couple of Mac1 mounts on two Crosman 114s. The B272 mount is only 1/4" or less lower. They are based on the old Sheridan intermount which I also have on some guns. They will not pull your gun apart as long as you don't get crazy tightening them down. Just snug, there is no heavy recoil to overcome. I usually use cheap Weaver rings, plenty good for an air rifle.
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I've used the Benjamin B272 mounts on four or five guns and have never had a problem with them. I have a couple of Mac1 mounts on two Crosman 114s. The B272 mount is only 1/4" or less lower. They are based on the old Sheridan intermount which I also have on some guns. They will not pull your gun apart as long as you don't get crazy tightening them down. Just snug, there is no heavy recoil to overcome. I usually use cheap Weaver rings, plenty good for an air rifle.
I just snugged them down, but with the double face tape at all the contact points, that mount is not moving, the gripping surface area has greatly improved !
wll
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Got my screw on tins today and they are perfect, two tins just barely fit into the butt pouch. One tin to carry pellets and one to carry a small container of oil, a cleaning pull through unit and some patches. Very Nice, they are 2.62" in diameter and about .95"+ in height. The tin with the blue paper towel cut to size holds almost 250ea pellets
Here is a a couple of pics of the tin and the tin filled with pellets
(https://photos.imageevent.com/wlleven/k10dtest/downloadphotos/can%20sm.png)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/wlleven/k10dtest/downloadphotos/can%20open%20sm.png)
SIDE BAR: I shot my 392 a little bit today and ran her over the chrono .... JSB Heavies with 8 pumps are around 567fps, and with 5 pumps I'm very close to 500fps. I'm thinking I will stay with these JSB Heavies as I was hitting everything I was shooting at although I did not put her on paper !
This weekend I will tune her in and make my final determination on my aiming points, with 8 and with 5 or 6 pumps ?
wll
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Received the cleaning pull thru coated cable, a small vile that holds enough "Secret Sauce" for at lease 4 maintenance lube jobs between 250 pellet rounds and enough .22 cal cotton swabs to make sure the bore stays clean if I have to use them.. A allen key for the rings and a small blade screw driver head will also be put in
All fits in the little tin and both the ammo tin and the cleaning tin are in the butt pouch !
(https://photos.imageevent.com/wlleven/k10dtest/downloadphotos/Cleaning%20392%20Stuff%20sm.png)
wll
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I'm so looking forward to Saturday as I put in the modified trigger, and maybe a mod valve spring to take off some of the amount of force needed to open the poppet !! I Very well may open the valve transfer port hole to ~.1695,(# 18 drill) a bit conservative but a bit more than factory, I may put another "O" ring around the TP hole to stop air leakage. !!!
The slightly larger TP size and the softer valve spring, and extra "O" ring should give me the few more fpe that I'm looking for. I'm not looking for 20fpe at the muzzle .. 16+ would be enough to push me over 12fpe at 40 yds ..with 8 pumps.
wll
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If anybody knows different, please correct me.
I thought between the barrel being polygon and brass that they don’t get cleaned.
Glad you like your gun.
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If anybody knows different, please correct me.
I thought between the barrel being polygon and brass that they don’t get cleaned.
Glad you like your gun.
The Benjamin barrel has polygonal rifling and can't be cleaned ?
I look at my pellets after being fired and they don't look polygonal to me, pretty sharp and well defined rifling.
I used to wipe my Sheridan barrel every few thousand rounds to get any crud that might be in the barrel ? Never used a brush or anything like that, just run a patch through it to remove any grit or ? that got in the bore through a few months of field use. After that, a few shots (~5 or so) brought zero back to normal. Never removed any lead or anything as the pellet really doesn't go fast enough or get hot enough to cause that type of thing I believe.
Are you thinking maybe of another gun? ...... Unless I'm way wrong, I stand corrected ?
wll
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Idk. I think the brass explains the lack of lead build up.
Let me shoot into some grocery bags. Maybe I remember wrong.
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If anybody knows different, please correct me.
I thought between the barrel being polygon and brass that they don’t get cleaned.
Glad you like your gun.
The Benjamin barrel has polygonal rifling and can't be cleaned ?
wll
I was going to start a thread asking about this very thing (polygonal rifling). I just got a 1997 397PA (with "P" style trigger) and when examining the crown (with magnification) I thought it looked very much to me like polygonal rifling. I pushed a pellet through with a wooden dowel and found very well defined rifling marks on the pellet. I wasn't expecting that.
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Got home and took the trigger mechanism housing apart.
Then ground down the anti - decocking arm just enough not to clear the top of the housing and cause interference with the bolt .... it works just beautiful, I’m all smiles.
The next and hopefully final project is lighten the spring in the valve, block the air from excaping around the valve port hole and install an adjustable piston.
I’m hoping these easy for me to do modifications boost fpe to 16+ at the muzzle and give me +12fpe at 40 yds :-)
wll
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The next and hopefully final project is lighten the spring in the valve, block the air from excaping around the valve port hole and install an adjustable piston.
I’m hoping these easy for me to do modifications boost fpe to 16+ at the muzzle and give me +12fpe at 40 yds :-)
wll
You should be closer to 16 fpe. I would have concerns about trying to install an o- ring around the valve port hole. A precision groove would be very difficult and the oring would make for trouble assembling the valve into tube.
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The next and hopefully final project is lighten the spring in the valve, block the air from excaping around the valve port hole and install an adjustable piston.
I’m hoping these easy for me to do modifications boost fpe to 16+ at the muzzle and give me +12fpe at 40 yds :-)
wll
You should be closer to 16 fpe. I would have concerns about trying to install an o- ring around the valve port hole. A precision groove would be very difficult and the oring would make for trouble assembling the valve into tube.
I 100% agree, I don’t want to make this into an engineering project for sure !!!
Looking for that doable fpe at muzzle that will give me 12 fpe ish at 40 yds !!!
wll
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If you are not going to pump over 8 to 10 pumps, the transfer hole size at .158 will be OK. The best mods you can do are angling the transfer port with a Dremel tool. Replacing the two round o- rings on the outside or the valve with square cross section type o- rings.
This along with the adjustable cup you ordered will put you past your goal.
I think you will enjoy it.
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If you are not going to pump over 8 to 10 pumps, the transfer hole size at .158 will be OK. The best mods you can do are angling the transfer port with a Dremel tool. Replacing the two round o- rings on the outside or the valve with square cross section type o- rings.
This along with the adjustable cup you ordered will put you past your goal.
I think you will enjoy it.
Thank you for the heads Up !
wll
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If you are not going to pump over 8 to 10 pumps, the transfer hole size at .158 will be OK. The best mods you can do are angling the transfer port with a Dremel tool. Replacing the two round o- rings on the outside or the valve with square cross section type o- rings.
This along with the adjustable cup you ordered will put you past your goal.
I think you will enjoy it.
What do the square cross-section O-rings do that the round ones don't?
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The square rings are used in place of the two standard o-rings located on the outside of the air valve. Since the square cross section better occupies the o- ring groove, the headspace air volume is further reduced. I ordered them from " The O-ring store " online. Part numbers: SN70113 and SN70016.
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Thanks!
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Went into office today and shot at 20 yds. Shot into ballistic putty using 6 pumps. I was going to test JSB Heavies, JSB Monsters and H&N Baracuda's ... I decided just to test the first two JSB's. I'm leaning toward a medium heavy and a extra heavy pellet for this gun. I have some 21gr slugs coming and that may put a new twist on things if they shoot well as the BC on those is.073 ;- )
The 18.1gr heavies shot in about an inch group, I was happy with this as I wobble all over the place with my stick rest. The Monsters were a bit better, very nice ;- )
What made me very happy was at this range the groups were pretty much on top of each other, it may differ greatly with more pumps, but I found this very satisfying.
I wish I had my adjustable piston in as I feel this and a few other easy mods are going to be just what the Dr. ordered ;- )
wll
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Just got an email from Tim that my stuff has shipped. I should probably get it Tue or Wed as I live maybe 60 miles from him.
I will probably do the adjustable piston first, and see how it shoots, if I get what I want FPS and FPE wise, job done, but it may take a lighter valve spring and ?
Fun times ahead :-)
wll
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The square rings are used in place of the two standard o-rings located on the outside of the air valve. Since the square cross section better occupies the o- ring groove, the headspace air volume is further reduced. I ordered them from " The O-ring store " online. Part numbers: SN70113 and SN70016.
Just ordered as you suggested ;- )
wll