GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Vintage Air Gun Gate => Topic started by: RBQChicken on December 08, 2018, 11:32:01 PM
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I know how to remove a rear sight on a Sheridan or Benji, but how do you re-install one on a gun without messing up the barrel/pump tube finish?
Thanks.
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I use a wooden dowel as a punch and a tiny hammer to gently drive the wedges in place.
Also helps to expand the clamping section a bit first. I've read you should do that anyway to guard against possible barrel separation.
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I was wondering if you could hold the wedges in place and then somehow squeeze the sight down over them.
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I have put the wedges in place then tapped the sight on with a dowel and small mallet. I use a cloth to protect the metal. (or tape)
You may have to also tap the wedges to get desired location. I also recommend stretching the sight out a bit so as not to put pressure on the solder, although, I'm a believer that most barrel separation comes from over pumping and not holding the gun right while pumping.
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Bill,
Did you tap the sight downward onto the wedges, or sideways (parallel to the barrel)?
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Along for the ride. I've wondered about this as well. Not sure how you would stretch that stiff metal but if there's a way w/o damaging or scratching it I'd like to know.
This might be a bit of a stretch (pardon the pun) but I've thought about using a small C-clamp w/hardwood shims to protect the sight & forearm grip & give it just enough pressure to set.
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As far as stretching the sight clamping pressure... with it off in hand, I simply put a wide blade screwdriver in the tabs and twisted a bit.
Don't think you could go over the top without scratching the barrel.
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Going over the top won't scratch the barrel. The barrel is narrower than the sight, that's why I was thinking along those lines. I was afraid tapping the shims in as you suggested would scratch the finish. Apparently it doesn't.
I like the C-clamp idea. I was leaning towards something like that, but was hoping someone would chime in and say they did it that way and it works before trying it myself ::)
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Yep, whatever you can use to get in there and stretch it a bit without scratching it (delrin or wood wedge) works. I put the sight on the barrel forward/rear of the wedges and tap downward/upward. I've not tried going down (clip) over the barrel and wedges. I did once try positioning one side wedge and sight then tapping the other wedge in but have better luck going over both wedges at the same time. The thing is, once I add a peep, I have yet to go back to the OEM sight.
Side note: some of the older sights have set (grub) screws.
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Going over the top won't scratch the barrel. The barrel is narrower than the sight, that's why I was thinking along those lines. I was afraid tapping the shims in as you suggested would scratch the finish.
I like the C-clamp idea. I was leaning towards something like that, but was hoping someone would chime in and say they did it that way and it works before trying it myself ::)
Agreed & I don't think it will take much pressure at all to set the sight on the shims. Just pinch the shims with fingers from one hand & turn the C-clamp with the other.
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I just tried doing the C-clamp thing with an old Blue Streak barrel that I don't care about (the bore is trashed). Put the wedges in place, placed the sight over them, padded top of sight and bottom of pump tube with hard rubber, then tried to squeeze the sight on over the wedges. It was getting pretty difficult to turn the screw on the c-clamp when I quit trying. Maybe it's do-able with a larger clamp. I removed the clamp and found that one side of the sight had settled into the groove on the wedge on one side and the other side was above the groove on the wedge but was pressed down hard enough to grip it. In other words, the sight was partially on, but tilting to one side and it would take more force than I gave it to get the other side to drop down into the wedge groove. I tried giving it a few raps on top of the sight (elevation screw was removed beforehand) but it didn't budge and I didn't want to hit it any harder. Like I said, this technique might work with a larger c-clamp than I had. Come to think of it, I didn't try to spread the sight open. If that's do-able (seems like it would take quite a bit of force- that's some pretty stiff metal) it might have made it easier to squeeze the sight in place.
I guess I'll try the Scott and Bill way next. Having a trashed barrel to practice on takes the pressure off!
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If the C-clamp would have worked I'da been on that like a duck on a junebug!
;D
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Sounds like you almost had it. That sight is going to have to come straight down. Give her another whirl.
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I just tried doing the C-clamp thing with an old Blue Streak barrel that I don't care about (the bore is trashed). Put the wedges in place, placed the sight over them, padded top of sight and bottom of pump tube with hard rubber, then tried to squeeze the sight on over the wedges. It was getting pretty difficult to turn the screw on the c-clamp when I quit trying. Maybe it's do-able with a larger clamp. I removed the clamp and found that one side of the sight had settled into the groove on the wedge on one side and the other side was above the groove on the wedge but was pressed down hard enough to grip it. In other words, the sight was partially on, but tilting to one side and it would take more force than I gave it to get the other side to drop down into the wedge groove. I tried giving it a few raps on top of the sight (elevation screw was removed beforehand) but it didn't budge and I didn't want to hit it any harder. Like I said, this technique might work with a larger c-clamp than I had. Come to think of it, I didn't try to spread the sight open. If that's do-able (seems like it would take quite a bit of force- that's some pretty stiff metal) it might have made it easier to squeeze the sight in place.
I did it that way once but in a 4" bench vise. It does take a lot of pressure and certainly puts stress on the barrel/air tube. I now make up a pair of plastic wedges and slide the sight on. I paint the soft white plastic black and it looks very much like original wedges. Various forms of plastic can be found at your local hobby shop.
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WHOA WHOA WHOA...
20cal: Are you THE UJ?
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I have seen a couple of people , [ yes they were good repairmen ] place the wedges in the sides, sit the sight on top of the barrel , then whack it with a rubber/wood mallet. That SKEERS me !
I slightly file the inside of the sight , [ or you can pry ] put wedges in place , & slide sight down front the front , tapping it lightly with a small mallet til in place Sometimes, a wedge will slide backwards, too , but I tap it forward with a plastic screwdriver .
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So you file the leading edge of the sight, so it ramps up over the wedges when you tap it on?
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I hold a file laying on the edge of my workbench. Take sight in other hand & rake the inside flanges on the file just a little . It is good to measure before & after, so you don't take too much off. You could bevel out the leading edge, but not necessary. Getting it started in the grooves is the main thing. Sometimes it takes 3 hands, so I ask Shorty to help me.
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I now make up a pair of plastic wedges and slide the sight on. I paint the soft white plastic black and it looks very much like original wedges. Various forms of plastic can be found at your local hobby shop.
Amazing how authentic those look.
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Shorty looks rested up and ready for action!
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As far as stretching the sight clamping pressure... with it off in hand, I simply put a wide blade screwdriver in the tabs and twisted a bit.
Don't think you could go over the top without scratching the barrel.
This is how I did it. You have to spread them a bit to get it back on to those wedges. I spent an entire evening after work trying to get it back on a benjamin with no success. After loosening it up a little, I was abke to tap it on, and still held very tight. The whole time I was fretting that I might break the solder!
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You can spread the sight slightly by putting it on something with a corner and whacking it with a mallet. I've put them over the edge of one bench vise jaw and done it, doesn't take much to loosen the grip on the wedges a bit.
The older sights with the set screw were a better design, and don't separate the barrel, even with over pumping. Wonder why they switched to the wedges?
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Drilling, tapping and two screws cost more than two hunks of plastic.
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I hold a file laying on the edge of my workbench. Take sight in other hand & rake the inside flanges on the file just a little . It is good to measure before & after, so you don't take too much off. You could bevel out the leading edge, but not necessary.
That gets my vote.
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Drilling, tapping and two screws cost more than two hunks of plastic.
Spoken like someone who really knows industrial priorities. ;)
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Drilling, tapping and two screws cost more than two hunks of plastic.
That’s it, LOL
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Drilling, tapping and two screws cost more than two hunks of plastic.
True.
And I also haven’t gone back after installing peep sights.
That said, I think all in all it is a pretty good sight design. I had a Crosman NP that I was getting really angry at, till I realized how much slop was in the plastic rear sight. I found the 392 easy to sight in w/out any real play.
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It did save a little time & money in production to use the wedges. I don't feel it is a bad design, either. It holds the sight it position well . It does put some pressure on the joint, but I do not blame the sight for most of the barrel separations.
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On one of my Sheridans I sanded the surfaces of the OEM wedges to thin them out and lessen the pinching pressure. It seemed to make a difference when reinstalling.
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^^^That has my vote as well...basically along the same lines as Steve. Both excellent ideas.
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Like others, once I installed a William’s peep, I set the original sight away for good.
Do you really feel the need to keep those wedges? I’m a firm believer in the powers of GOOP adhesive. It holds parts forever unless you really want to separate them. A little bit works well and you won’t even see it if you’re careful. Don’t like how the rear sight worked out? You can still take it off! It’s also just flexible enough that it won’t break loose.
Any of the numerous formulations should work, GOOP, Plumber’s GOOP, Marine GOOP, Automotive GOOP...
I do NOT recommend epoxy or JB Weld.
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I have seen a couple of people , [ yes they were good repairmen ] place the wedges in the sides, sit the sight on top of the barrel , then whack it with a rubber/wood mallet. That SKEERS me !
I remove the elevation screw, place the gun on a bench rest bag, put the wedges in place, align the sight then wack it once with a rubber mallet. After a couple of times it's really not to skeery.