GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Air Gun Gate => Topic started by: Hayfoot on October 15, 2018, 07:53:04 PM
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cant 1 (kănt)
n.
1. Angular deviation from a vertical or horizontal plane or surface; an inclination or slope.
OK, so we all know about the pitfalls of rifle 'cant' and how it can throw off an otherwise perfect shot. The oz of prevention appears to be putting one of these bubble levels on your rifle scope, to give you something to measure against... so my question is:
?Do you guys all do this? ...use a bubble level off the scope? ..and is that more of a long distance target match thing, or do you hunters feel a benefit as well?
as a newbie... thanks for your experience and answers :-)
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We who compete in field target Live or Die by the bubble level where CANT is very real and can be the difference of a hit or miss especially at distance.
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Thanks Scott!
Yeah, I was looking at a set of scope rings... and the 'standard' rings were like $65... whereas the rings with 'integral bubble level' were more like $165... so I was wondering if I would ever see any benefit out of these... more for 50~100m hunting.
more decisions :-)
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A level that's built into the scope rings (or that attaches to the rail) cannot be adjusted properly to match the reticle, which is what matters. It's better to use one that attaches to the scope tube:
https://www.amazon.com/Discovery-Optical-Riflescope-Level-30mm/dp/B019FBBEV8 (https://www.amazon.com/Discovery-Optical-Riflescope-Level-30mm/dp/B019FBBEV8)
https://www.amazon.com/bestsight-Riflescope-Anti-cant-Shooting-Hunting/dp/B0772LZF9Z (https://www.amazon.com/bestsight-Riflescope-Anti-cant-Shooting-Hunting/dp/B0772LZF9Z)
Regarding the distances of 50-100m...yes, as Scott said, cant error has the potential to be significant at those distances. It is proportional to the projectile's drop and for a pellet it's as much at 100 yards as it is for a .308 centerfire round at over 300 yards.
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HAH... I knew I was asking the right guys... you have the experience.
Thanks!
(and you saved me like $100 )
M
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everyone can benifit from better consistency ;D
i use a scope mounted level on every gun i own.
and like jason said, scope rings with a level or a rail mounted level cant be adjusted properly.
using a scope mounted level allows you to adjust it so the scope is level after aligning the reticle with the bore.
shooting with a level will greatly help in your accuracy and consistency.
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this link is to a little program that lets you play around with rifle cant and see its results
http://www.arld1.com/targetplottrajectory3.html (http://www.arld1.com/targetplottrajectory3.html)
very informative and alot of times eye opening for some.
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Personally use the BKL levels because there "BUBBLE" has so many positional options one can adjust to get into a usable position.
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so many options... I've seen those cheapies from China and wondered if they work... then there are those nice nice DNC machined ones Jason mentioned.
are they all 'equal' or do you get what you pay for?
M
I'm of a mind that DNC machined would be more accurate, yes?
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so many options... I've seen those cheapies from China and wondered if they work... then there are those nice nice DNC machined ones Jason mentioned.
are they all 'equal' or do you get what you pay for?
M
I'm of a mind that DNC machined would be more accurate, yes?
More accurate ... not really.
The bubble tube is independently adjustable on the scope tube mounted types allowing YOU TO SET IT LEVEL once you have established the reticle intersects bore center line then you level bubble on the scope tube using a vertical plumb line.
(http://www.bkltech.com/v/vspfiles/photos/categories/67.jpg)
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Once again I agree with Scott’s comments. Granted I wouldn’t be surprised to learn they are bad examples out there but really and truly a spirit level is a very simple thing and there’s no precision machining necessary with the aluminum. I do recall someone describing one they got that used a poor liquid that’s too viscous and doesn’t allow the bubble to move freely. I haven’t experienced that myself and I’ve used 20+ over the last few years that came from various sources costing anywhere from $5 - $15 so they’re all what I would consider to be from the budget category.
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I prefer the add on level off to one side. I can see the target with one eye and the level with the other. Beware with a scope mounted level, though. You do need clearance between the scope and the gun to mount it.
The Chinese cheapies off eBay seem to work fine for me.
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You guys are the best. Thanks for your patience with the easy questions. :-)
Dunno... the rifle starts to feel like a rube-goldberg device, between scope wheel, zoom lever, wheel marking pin, and now a bubble level!
you serious shooters are... Serious!
boy I'm loving this sport! (hobby?)
M
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I just grind the claws of an old scope ring and epoxy a recycled bubble vial to the remaining stub.
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I have wondered why they don't put one inside the scope itself, visible in the eyepiece, aligned with the same focal plane as the reticle.
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Some scopes do, I have one from Sun
Optics that has it visible at the bottom of the sight picture.
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Some scopes do, I have one from Sun
Optics that has it visible at the bottom of the sight picture.
jason, i have often contemplated picking up a scope with the level inside, how do you like it?
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Well, to the extent that it factors into my scope buying decisions, it ranks somewhere approaching 0%. :) I mean it’s a nice feature but it doesn’t substantially simplify or improve my shooting compared to a conventional level. I suspect I would value it more if I were trouncing around on hilly terrain where I’m having to set up my shots from awkward and ever changing positions. But since I don’t, the only advantage it offers me is for night time use…I can’t see a conventional level but the integrated level illuminates along with the reticle.