GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Projectiles => Boolit and Pellet Casting => Topic started by: Nvreloader on October 09, 2018, 04:14:47 PM
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Guys
Thanks to DEz and Rocker 1 and others, we now have a place for this stuff,
So let's get some info/Ideas out there for the other lurkers, ;),
maybe we can draw them into another Dark Hole etc. ;D
I got several tanks/bottles,
5 gal LPG type sawed in half, had a brass plug/valve that is cut off, hole in the bottom, insides very rusty,
smaller LPG tank 9" dia/15" tall, complete with no alterations, unknown condition inside,
and a Helium tank, same size as the small LPG tank, that was used to fill balloons,
complete with no alterations, unknown condition inside, etc.
I want to make a couple of melting pots,
to reduce WW= wheel weights/lead into lead ingots and maybe mold pouring, using LPG as the fuel type etc.
Anyone have any Ideas on how to safely convert these tanks for the use intended?
This build will be a complete build up to replace the Lee electric units I have, that quit working.
Would like to have a controllable valve type pour system,
hands/wrists are not in great shape, at this time, so I prefer not to use a big heavy lade etc,
and have the way to use these tanks (smaller ones) to pour direct into the molds.
I have an Idea on a built in valve, that is heated via the burner, no freeze up,
but still can used to pour ingots, and is very controllable for use with molds etc,
think along the lines of the long water valves that fit into a wall, cold weather types.
Just not sure about the valve outlet, and how it works,
I'll have to take the torch to the Lee pot and drain the tank etc
Have complete shop with lathe/mill, wire welder, power saw, torch set up, drills presses,
so I need some Ideas to get the best results, the first time around, if possible.
Any suggestions or Ideas and thoughts........or photo's would be a BIG help, on the valve outlet.........
Thank you,
Don
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Talk about apropos...
Not 3 days ago, I watched "the king of random" on YT talk about converting a mini foundry to propane.
I can't post links, but google for "king of random propane forge" and it should get you there. Or just discombobulate the following:
www DOT youtube DOT com SLASH watch?v=eO8NwseRxSA
If you know about making pellets, can you offer any inputs on casting an aluminum pellet/slug? Final product could have lead or steel wire "core" to bring weight up.
I just re-read your post. Pro tip: fill LPG tanks with water prior to cutting.
Angle grinder + cutoff wheel + what I thought was a completely empty LPG tank == very short barreled gun firing big brass plug at crazy velocity
Thing musta been like a million FPEs man...
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I try to keep it simple myself Don as I'm still using my old original small Lee pot and ladle I bought years ago, they still work good so that's what I use.
I only use pure lead, it's the best to use on airguns, wheel weights are loaded with antimony which are good for fishing weights or as many do use
it in their powder burners.
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I use smelting lead and fluxing it just a stainless steel kettel. And gas burner of course. Here is picture of my set up
(https://img.aijaa.com/m/00540/14624695.jpg) (https://aijaa.com/RYBI6E)
On picture is end of smelting process. Just waiting all sawdust to burn.... Then collect all dross off and used that scoop to pour lead on muffin pan. Cheap pans cost few € and there is 12 holes to fill and got about 500-600 grams ingot from each hole.Got 6 those muffin pans to make job faster
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Easiest way to empty a suspect propane tank is set it out on your range and put a bullet (Lead only), thru the top porton. If any propane remains, it will escape immediately. LOL ;D
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Thanks Micheal
I think, you are leading me down the garden path?............ ;)
I don't think a lead bullet will hole a 5 gal LPG tank..........Will it?
I have been down that path before,
when I was young dumb and did not KNOW.....anything,
now I am OLD and still don't know anything, but I am smarter?
I had a Trail 90 Honda, early 60's, the seat tank hold down bracket started to crack and leaked some gas,
drained the tank, and then washed out the tank with hot soaping water, to clean out the gas, I THOUGHT...
you can see where this is going, can't you..............
I fired up the electric welder, turned the tank the correct way, had the gas cap off, and set down on the tank,
to hold it from moving, attached the ground clamp, put on the hood, and struck an arc, and then......
KABOOM, flame out both ends, and there I set with a WTH look on my face........... among other things,
End result was a 2 gal tank now held 2-1/2 gallons, I learned another lesson............,
fill the tank with truck exhaust and you can weld kinda safely...... sometimes.
That Trail 90 thought me lots of lessons, most of them the hard way...........
Tia,
Don
Easiest way to empty a suspect propane tank is set it out on your range and put a bullet (Lead only), thru the top porton. If any propane remains, it will escape immediately. LOL ;D
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Teemu
Holy Snack bar, are all those bricks lead?
That is your bench, holding everything up?
I sure hope you don't have an earth quake,
as there will be a hole where you had your melting setup :o
That is one great set up,
Thank you,
Don
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Thanks Wayne
I dug out some of the casting equipment,
3 different elect pots and all 3 quit had working......... >:(
So, I decided to start over and build the proper setup,
a med/large melting pot bottom pour, to render down the pure lead,
make small ingots to use in a elect pot, for pellets etc.
I got a empty HELIUM tank that used used to fill balloons,
used the sawsall to cut it, AFTER filling it with exhaust fumes,
the bottom half is about 6"" tall and 9-1/2" in dia,
and have NO Idea how much lead it will hold, filled up to 4-5".
My question is, the thickness of the metal, which is about .065" thick,
and I have doubts about it being strong enough to work, over time etc.
I have an Idea about how to make a bottom pour, with the pour outlet heated via the LPG gas,
which will be a lapped tapered valve, welded into the bottom, about 1/2" up,
with the usual methods to filling etc.
And then there is a small LPG tank, setting here looking at me,
that is 9" in diameter and 12" tall, that has LPG smell coning from the valve........ :o
that has set open for a long time............
Tia,
Don
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Nvreloader : Nope just stone bricks prevent those wooden pallets burn. I empthy those muffin ingots on top of bricks to cool down. But that pot is full of lead. I have my lead on rolls. About 45kg / per roll. I use tin snips to cut it smaller to fit in pot.
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So it appears that no one has built a HD LPG melting pot.............
And Oh Ya, Knife
A lead bullet will NOT hole a standard 5 LPG tank, valve open, set it up at 25-30 yds, hiding behind a large dirt berm,
pulled out the scoped TC 357 mag, 10" bbl, loaded with a stiff 357/158gr load, cast bullet >1800+ fps,
took aim and placed the bullet about halfway between the seam and curved top.
End results was only a lead dimple/dish in the steel....... ;)
Now if, I had used my 22-250, 35gr @ 3800+ fps, there would have been a hole burned in it.....
lots of experience holing LPG tanks with CF rifles/pistols out to 300+ yds.
Off to find more info...........
Tia,
Don
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Odd, my S&W 41 mag has no problem going thru both sides with a 170 gr semi hard cast at 1200 fps. LOL!
the .223 and .308 certainly don't. LOL But a very empty tank. ;)
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Lots of people have made the pots. Go to CAST Boolets.com. ;) 8)
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Talk about apropos...
Not 3 days ago, I watched "the king of random" on YT talk about converting a mini foundry to propane.
I can't post links, but google for "king of random propane forge" and it should get you there. Or just discombobulate the following:
www DOT youtube DOT com SLASH watch?v=eO8NwseRxSA
If you know about making pellets, can you offer any inputs on casting an aluminum pellet/slug? Final product could have lead or steel wire "core" to bring weight up.
I just re-read your post. Pro tip: fill LPG tanks with water prior to cutting.
Angle grinder + cutoff wheel + what I thought was a completely empty LPG tank == very short barreled gun firing big brass plug at crazy velocity
Thing musta been like a million FPEs man...
I would not recomend and aluminum projectile, unless you were putting into a plastic jacket or something.
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Well Guys
I have been staring at this small LPG tank, trying to decide what to do........
Decided to remove the valve, after 1/2 hr trying, it's a no go, can't get it to budge............ :o
that valve is not left hand thread, is it?
A 24" pipe wrench was used.
I want the valve removed, (has a med smell of LPG coming from inside),
so I can pump my trucks exhaust, so I can get it cut in half, and NOT have a KABOOM,
with the disc grinder cutoff blades..
Any thoughts or suggestions........would be greatly appreciated.............
Tia,
Don
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Well Guys
I have been staring at this small LPG tank, trying to decide what to do........
Decided to remove the valve, after 1/2 hr trying, it's a no go, can't get it to budge............ :o
that valve is not left hand thread, is it?
A 24" pipe wrench was used.
I want the valve removed, (has a med smell of LPG coming from inside),
so I can pump my trucks exhaust, so I can get it cut in half, and NOT have a KABOOM,
with the disc grinder cutoff blades..
Any thoughts or suggestions........would be greatly appreciated.............
Tia,
Don
Drill a hole in it, or shoot a hole in it, then toss it into a fire to burn off any LP. Then cut it with an oxy/acetylene torch.
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When using LPG tanks for BBQ's they are filled with water to just below cutting line then cut with a plasma cutter or torch.
Many times valves are left hand threaded for flammable and toxic or pyrophoric gasses.
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A Google search will yield much info.
A jigsaw or sawzall will do a nicer job than a abrasive cut off blade.
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Well I tried Cast bullets forum, without much response....................
So I'll post here,
Step 2,
I have the Helium tank cut in half, trued up, cut the top off the tank and split down the side,
this leaves a ring that is about 6+" tall, to use as a wind screen/shield.
I have the (top of the tank) curved section turned up side down and slipped around/up the walls from the bottom,
about 4" to direct the remaining heat to travel up the sides, and this leaves about 2" of empty space below the tank bottom,
where I will mount the adjustable LPG High pressure 4" diameter burner inside this ring.
There is about a 2+" wide opening for the bottom pour pipe, 4-5" long to exit the bottom ring,
with a 1/4" black pipe elbow pointing down.
The valve is SS with a 60* bevel at the top/inside for the stem which will also have a 60* cone to fit inside the valve,
and the top will extend 1" above from tank bottom, and I will lap these 2 together just before final mounting.
There is a 1/8" pour hole thru the valve exit, that has a 1/4" Black pipe elbow is attached to,
and will use 1/4" BP to exit the under the tank with approximately 4-5" in length,
and end in another elbow, pointing down, for filling ingots/molds.
There will be a triangle piece that comes out from the inside of the tank wall,
in which the valve rod will be bored/threaded thru this piece, and go straight down to the valve top,
and be less than 3" out from the inside wall, to leave as much as possible of clear space,
for cleaning the dross/trash out etc.
I plan on adding a 1/2 to 3/4" wide x 1/8" band around the very top,
which will welded along the very top edge to the pot, and will have a 1/4" bail handle attached thru this top ring,
for moving when needed.
Some of the questions, I am not sure about,
Question:
Will a 1/4" clear space around the tank sides, be enough to allow enough good heat to go up the 4" sides,
or would 1/2" space be better?
I can't decide,
If I want a push down thumb lever system with a spring return assist,
or a screw type system for controlling the lead output.
I have not attached anything together yet, as I am NOT sure which way to go,
or if I have the correct/enough dimensions for everything to operate correctly yet.
Any thoughts or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Tia,
Don
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I'm surprised you couldn't find anything at Cast Boolits. I found a very large section showing ppts people have made. Odd! Been awhile since I looked it up though. Seems like it was under either "this old pot", or "casting equipment"
I converted my RCBS Pro Melt to push down rather than pull up for the valve actuation.
Like you, getting old, and the pull up was getting hard on my wrist. GRRRR!!!
Knife
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Thanks Knife
When I searched the site, "casting Equipment", it would show numerous pg's of posts,
I would start reading them and after a couple of pg's, I would get the info stating "no info available",
yet it show'd 30+ pg's etc. >:(
The few posts that looked good etc, had no photo's to be seen what was being talked about with the builds etc,
even thou it showed photo's attached etc..
I wasted almost 2 days searching/reading........so I don't know if it's me/computer, or their site......... ::)
So I guess I'll just build it and then I know what to adjust after testing etc.
Tia,
Don
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Thanks Knife
When I searched the site, "casting Equipment", it would show numerous pg's of posts,
I would start reading them and after a couple of pg's, I would get the info stating "no info available",
yet it show'd 30+ pg's etc. >:(
The few posts that looked good etc, had no photo's to be seen what was being talked about with the builds etc,
even thou it showed photo's attached etc..
I wasted almost 2 days searching/reading........so I don't know if it's me/computer, or their site......... ::)
So I guess I'll just build it and then I know what to adjust after testing etc.
Tia,
Don
Odd, I wonder what is going on. I can see a lot of pic's. Sorry your having such trouble Don.
On my old XP system, I am unable to go to more and more sites. Can't go to man airgun related sites and forums at all. Such as Airgun Nation. All I get is site uses unsupported protocol, Can't go there at all anymore. However I like the XP operating system, and don't really want to change. LOL
A shame as Steve S. who has Airgun Advancement and Exploration vid's on youtube post there, and it is my only way I use to contact him.
Knife
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Knife
Thanks,
Same here, I have 2 plastic boxes, one is XP and the other is Win 10,
the laptop (XP) is my back up which I love, and has all my ballistic's apps on it,
including XL, Quick Load/RCBS etc, just like a good, well broken in pair of boots. ;)
The Win 10, I don't really like, as it is smarter than I am, LOL.
The CB site just frustrates me to no end, says there is 30 pg's of posts,
I go to read from pg 1 back and after the second pg, up POPS, "NO info found", >:( >:( so i just quit reading there.
Back to regular programming/building, ;)
I made some head way today, got the bottom valve installed, turned a pc of SS scrap for the 1/2" down rod,
with a 60* taper to match the top of the bottom valve exit point, which is also 60* taper,
which will be lapped in on the final put together.
Got the tank stand off piece made for the down rod milled/cut out and tapped to hold the down rod,
with a .010" clearance for the straight up/down to the valve, to slide thru.
I am thinking of using a thumb push down level attached to the down rod, (less pressure for my right hand),
which will have a lite spring to assist the down rod in maintaining down pressure, to stop any leaking lead etc.
The bottom exit of this valve, now has 1/8" dia exit hole, (which can be opened up if needed),
and is attached to 1/4 Black pipe 4" long with a 90* elbow for filling ingots,
along with a cap with a 1/16" hole size (subject to change, as needed), so bullet/pellet molds can be fill also.
(just SWAG for now).
Being this is a 9-1/2 dia pot, which could hold about 100#'s+, if filled up,
I am going to run a 1/8" x 3/4-1" flat band around the top,
seeing that the OEM metal sides is only .040''/.050" thick, (I am not sure, I can reliably wire feed weld), the two together,
I may just hot form and bolt it every 3/4" around the diameter, to it make it secure etc,
as there will be a bail handle attached to the top for moving etc.
Working on the outside shield to conduct the heat from the bottom of the tank (6-8" dia HP burner),
to go up the sides of the tank and at the same time have a air shield around the burner/sides etc.
All above subject to change, AFTER hot lead is flowing.......... ;)
Back to the shop..............
Tia,
Don
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I've also got Windows XP Pro on this hard drive but I always disconnect from the internet when I boot into it. I have software in it that's what I really like using for video encoding and the software won't work on linux. I can make dvd's the exact size to entirely fill a dvd getting the best quality possible.
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Wayne
Thank you,
BUT, you are using $50 words on a $5 dollar person, it was a zoommy right over my head, ???
when it comes to this plastic box and how/what operates it.......Sorry.
My daughter set it up for me, in 2010?, with NO training, just hands on from the start,
I can barely walk, talk and chew at the same time, I am getting TOO OLD........... ;)
Thanks,
Don
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You and me both Brother! :(
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The daughter just left and showed me HOW to turn on the speakers attached to this plastic box,
Now, I have talking, watching the silent movies..... 8)
Dumber than a box of rocks, when it comes to this plastic box, that I am attached tooooooooo...... Now,
But I am smarter than the Rock box packer............I think...............LOL.
Tia,
Don
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Thanks Knife
When I searched the site, "casting Equipment", it would show numerous pg's of posts,
I would start reading them and after a couple of pg's, I would get the info stating "no info available",
yet it show'd 30+ pg's etc. >:(
The few posts that looked good etc, had no photo's to be seen what was being talked about with the builds etc,
even thou it showed photo's attached etc..
I wasted almost 2 days searching/reading........so I don't know if it's me/computer, or their site......... ::)
So I guess I'll just build it and then I know what to adjust after testing etc.
Tia,
Don
Odd, I wonder what is going on. I can see a lot of pic's. Sorry your having such trouble Don.
On my old XP system, I am unable to go to more and more sites. Can't go to man airgun related sites and forums at all. Such as Airgun Nation. All I get is site uses unsupported protocol, Can't go there at all anymore. However I like the XP operating system, and don't really want to change. LOL
A shame as Steve S. who has Airgun Advancement and Exploration vid's on youtube post there, and it is my only way I use to contact him.
Knife
Problem is, operating system do and will continue to become outdated. Microsoft has stopped supporting them after a certain amount of years. What that means is no patches or fixes will be developed and released. By continuing to use an outdated operating system you will have several issues. One is your personal security will go down the drain. There will be no new security patches as new threats are developed and deployed.
Secondly, as operating system progress, more apps will drop off of the list of usable for the old systems due to lack of support. You see, companies have to invest money to have developers build scripts or drivers to support any particular operating system. That's why they have a life expectancy. They just will not spend the money to continue supporting outdated operating systems that fewer and fewer folks are using.
And lastly, newer operating systems SHOULD be more efficient. They are supposed to be more robust and take fewer resources which allows your system to run better. Now I'll add, this is the theory, and not always the actual results. LOL
We have seen Microsoft have a hit or miss record. Windows Millennium Edition was a dog. Windows XP was excellent. Windows 7, ehhh, not too bad. Windows 8 a piece of dung. Windows 10, not too shabby. I'm still getting use to all of it's quirks. But it's growing on me. It incorporates the best of W7 and W8 and dropped off a bunch of the bad junk W8 had built in.
And finally, hardware has to also keep up with the times. If you keep an old computer, which by the way becomes outdated after 6 months, then XP will work fine. But if you upgrade your hardware to get better performance and speed, be advised there are little or no drivers available for new equipment running XP or older OS's. So my suggestion is keep up with the times and chunk the old stuff. Too much risk involved with hanging onto old technology. But hey, I'm also not the best with change either. LOL
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Dave that's exactly why I started using Linux about 5 years ago, for me it was a no brainer once I tried the Linux Mint out, I'll need to upgrade to Linux Mint 18 or better by the end of next year because Mint17 will have run it's course then. I sure have been happy using it because I no longer have to worry about defrag or any of the Windows garbage to go with it, besides that it's free ;D
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Guys
Well today, I did the first water test of the new melting pot I just made,
lapped the SS valve in with 240 grit > 500 grit > 800 grit compound,
Cleaned the valve and install it all together, filled it with 2+ gal of water,
attached the 5 psi Hi flow LPG valve and 5 gal bottle, and fired it up........
Had one very small drip from the center plug,
and 10 minutes later I had a rolling boil in the pot, with no other leaks,
used the valve numerous time, and no leaking,
and it appears that this burner will keep the pour spout very hot,
to reduce freeze up of the spout. ;D
Shut it all down and dumped the main pot, tighten the center plug, and fired it up again,
all systems is a go Houston.
Next test will be with enough lead to cover the valve exit, and testing the pour spout.
After that test, then a complete fill and melt down, which will be around 150#'s of pure soft lead.
Then finish up with the final welding to complete it.
Getting closer to making ingots for the casting pellets in the new NOE molds........ ;)
Tia,
Don
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WOW ! 150 LBS talk about casting away ;)
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Back Roads
Thanks,
And I built a very small pot that is only 9.5" in dia and 6" tall, ;) some of these guys build pots that hold 300/400+ #'s. LOL
I just needed a small pot to render down soft pure lead into make 1-1/2# - 3/4" dia x 6" long,
stick ingots for the small Lee bottom pour pot and 4-1/2" x 2-1/2" casting pot, I have,
and I can hand ladle out of either one, for pellet casting/small 22 cal bullets etc.
I will cast up a bunch of ingots and have then ready for winter time casting,
plus it helps keeping the frost off my nose in the UN heated shop..........LOL
I have a feeling, that there is too much volume for safe/accurate casting from the melting pot,
as the flow out of the 1/4" Black pipe was quite strong with water.
As soon as I finish welding all the bracing in place, (spot welded now), I'll find out. LOL
I sure want to give the pot a good paint job, Dull black would look very nice,
but I don't think any paint would hold up to the 650-750*heat from the 75,000 BTU burner etc.
The pot is a Yucky Yellow now with some rust patches in spots........... :(
Tia,
Don
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A product called stove black leaves a nice heat resistant flat black finish.
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Back Roads
Thanks
Would that paint hold up to the high temps?
I am not talking about where the burner head is heat the pot, mainly concerned around the sides/top etc.
I just checked my wood burner stove, 1/4" plate steel with a decent fire going,
with my very accurate "K" probe, and the outside skin temp is running 250-275* at the hot spot,
exhaust exit for the chimney pipe.
I'll be in the 650 to 800* temp range, when melting the lead........I don't know the answer.
I'll check the Krylon paint section, when I am in the hardware store tomorrow.
Tia,
Don
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I have done single wall stove pipe with it, it is like a black mineral that remains on the stove after the water carrier evaporates.
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Guys
I have been playing with the burner height to the pot's bottom,
started out with the burner about 1-1/2" down, Blue flame tips not touching the pot's bottom,
will bring the pot of water to a boil in about 10 min, inside the unheated shop and no wind/drafts.
Moved the burner up to about 1", flame tips just touching the bottom of the pot,
the 212* temp of the water was quicker by a couple of minutes.
So I believe, I have the hottest temps possible using this height for the burner.
I have not installed the heat shield, which should help a lot.
I checked the temps with the "K" probe, which works very well.
Next test will be melting the lead and adjusting the pour valve,
and checking for leaks.
Waiting for the Pony Express rider.............. ;)
Tia,
Don
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Just something to consider, when pouring low volume bullets and even more so pellets you want as little pressure as possible. It creates too much turbulence within the mold cavity. I gave up on bottom pouring from the pots and ladle pour everything, my casting results have been exceptional ever since. I can now pour just as fast with a ladle as the bottom pour, but it did take me quite awhile to get there.
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I've been pouring like this for a long time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYXUWlekO3Q (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYXUWlekO3Q)
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I've been pouring like this for a long time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYXUWlekO3Q (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYXUWlekO3Q)
Thanks, that's a very informative video and your technique definitely works based on your reject percentage, which is much lower than mine.
I have always used a bottom pour pot but I am going to purchase a LEE ladle and give it a try. Shane's (Sbak) explanation, about less pressure, makes sense.
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With the blocks below the spout and a thin stream of lead splashing about as opposed to a ladle with its contents keeping pressure on the not yet solidified contents in the blocks, I'm willing to bet that you have GREATER pressure and far less turbulence when you CONTACT ladle pour as depicted in the video. (It works for me!!)
I acquired my 20 pound Saeco lead pot in the early 70's and almost never use my old bottom pour.
Be sure to drill out the ladle spout to where it's just smaller than the hole in the sprue plate for the best flow. ;)
Cheers,
Smoketown
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Jim
Thanks for the info.
Knowing what I know now, with this melting pot,
I have a 1/4 Black pipe pour spout, 6" long, 90* elbow, the inside dia of this Black pipe is .355",
and I have approximately 6" of length/volume of lead inside.
I think, I'll have WAY TOO MUCH volume or pressure, to use this pot for casting etc.
I can put the end cap on the pour spout and build a pouring spout to fit the mold etc,
the only problem will be having the lead getting cold etc.
I do have a couple of small pots, + Lyman/RCBS bullet ladels,
after I melt the ingots and cleaned up, I can fill these pots for ladle casting, following Wayne's info/style etc,
plus I also have an OLD lee bottom pour furnace and a 2 burner Hot Plate (1800w), to keep everything heated up.
As soon as the molds get here and I have a completed set up finished,
I am going to do a couple of run thru's etc, to see which method will work the best.
It's only been 25-30 yrs since I last cast'ed any bullets, and they were BIG 357 cal, not these tiny 22 cal's. LOL
Tia,
Don
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Thanks, that's a very informative video and your technique definitely works based on your reject percentage, which is much lower than mine.
I have always used a bottom pour pot but I am going to purchase a LEE ladle and give it a try. Shane's (Sbak) explanation, about less pressure, makes sense.
My mistake, LEE doesn't make a ladle like Wayne's. Lyman and RCBS does so I ordered a Lyman from Amazon, $19.80.
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Thanks, that's a very informative video and your technique definitely works based on your reject percentage, which is much lower than mine.
I have always used a bottom pour pot but I am going to purchase a LEE ladle and give it a try. Shane's (Sbak) explanation, about less pressure, makes sense.
My mistake, LEE doesn't make a ladle like Wayne's. Lyman and RCBS does so I ordered a Lyman from Amazon, $19.80.
Don't knock the little lee ladle, they are cheap and much easier to learn how to ladle cast with. You won't be filling big bore 6 bangers with it, but it does produce beautiful little bullets. I own three different ladles, the lee, the lyman, and a Rowell. I still use the lee ladle over the other two more expensive ladles for temperamental molds