GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Diana Airguns => Topic started by: Tinkerer on September 27, 2018, 08:25:44 PM
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Hi folks, I'm currently getting frustrated trying to put the barrel back on my RWS 34 after installing a Vortek kit.
I can't get the cylinder back in that holds the barrel to the compression tube. Previously, someone on the forum advised me to install it with the cocking lever out of the slot, then reinstall the cocking lever. But the cocking lever won't go into the slot when the cylinder is installed. The only solution I see would be to remove the pin on the other end of the coking lever, but I don't know how to do that.
Everything about disassembly and reassembly has been a breeze except this cylinder. How do people get these reassembled?
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What are you calling the cylinder? The piston and spring go into the compression tube. The barrel goes between the forks. Your cocking arm MUST be in the piston as you reinstall the barrel. If you opt to remove the cocking arm from the barrel block I have read one of those steel six inch rules is just the right thickness to press the e clip off the pin.
I am NOT driving over to Seattle tonight to put your gun together. You are welcome to drive to the Tri Cities, though. I'll wait up.
I have noticed on the newer Dianas the barrel washers seem abnormally thick and a very tight fit. They do fit into a slight recess in the barrel so they won't easily slide out while you're reassembling the gun. As I recall the outside of the washer has a slight curve to facilitate reassembly.
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To clarify, the "cylinder" I'm taking about is the small piece that holds the barrel block to the rest of the rifle. That's what I can't get reinstalled.
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Reassembly: Piston, barrel, spring then trigger.
If you closed it up before attaching the barrel you'll have to release spring pressure. Put the cocking lever through the slot and the barrel block into the forks in the "broken" position. The pivot bolt and sleeve should easily slip in. Close barrel, install spring, trigger group compress and insert retaining pins.
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OK, I see, so people compress the spring with the barrel on then. That's disappointing because I just built a spring compressor that's not long enough to do that.
I ended up getting it back in by chamfering the edge of the bolt a bit so it wouldn't catch on the edge of the barrel block. Hopefully that's OK.
It's surprisingly hard to find good info on disassembling/reassembling air rifles.
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Another way to put the barrel on last is to put a punch the same size as close is possible to the hole size then cock the the gun. The pin will slip right in.dont forget to load a pellet afterwards so you dont dryfire it
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OK, I see, so people compress the spring with the barrel on then. That's disappointing because I just built a spring compressor that's not long enough to do that.
I ended up getting it back in by chamfering the edge of the bolt a bit so it wouldn't catch on the edge of the barrel block. Hopefully that's OK.
It's surprisingly hard to find good info on disassembling/reassembling air rifles.
Your gun may be assembled either with the barrel on or the barrel off.
If you assemble the action with the barrel off, to re-install the barrel it may be necessary to remove the cocking arm from the barrel block. Or the gun may be cocked before re-installing the barrel....just insert a screw driver in the pivot hole to cock it. This allows easy installation of the bushing (what you called the cylinder).
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Thanks folks. I like the cocking trick. I'll do that next time.
I suspect the rifle is fine despite the chamfering and hammering I did to the bushing. The barrel pivot joint feels tight and smooth. But I'll find out tomorrow. Vortek PG2 kit with Krytox 205 full lube.
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Don't remove the cocking arm from the barrel. Don't need to cock the rifle. Just keep moving the breech block around until you can get the screw sleeve to push thru. You will find the right combo
/angle and it will all come together. No big deal. 34's are the easiest rifle to take apart. I no longer use a compressor as I find them a waste of time and in my opinion more dangerous.
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Checkout this GTA link. https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=80708.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=80708.0)
Has all the info you asked about. 2 video's. The rifles they are demonstrating on are closes of the Diana/RWS 34.
Hope this helps...
-Y
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Thanks Yogi, but neither of those videos are applicable to my situation. The one that shows reassembly of the cocking arm is on a rifle with a hinged arm.
It would be great if someone posted a RWS 34 full disassembly/reassembly video. I have yet to find one for either of my rifles, both of which are very common models. Maybe I'll do it at some point.
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https://www.powershow.com/view/15f33-ODA3M/Model_34_DIY_Tune_powerpoint_ppt_presentation?varnishcache=1 (https://www.powershow.com/view/15f33-ODA3M/Model_34_DIY_Tune_powerpoint_ppt_presentation?varnishcache=1)
Photobucket has destroyed a lot of good links. There used to be many pictures of various strip downs.
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1st the cocking slot has to be alignment has to be correct in the piston.
Simply in stall cocking arm in the cocking slot. Then in stall the barrel. Moly the pivot shims or what ever lube you use. As mentioned the shim srea 8n the barrel block has a machined slot for the shims.
Easiest is remove the cocking arm from the barrel block. Simple e clip located on the center of the cocking arm pin.
The 34 is one peice cocking rod vs the D350 is an articulating.
Install the barrel paying attion to the shims so not to damage them. With the cocking arm off it is easier to align the shims. A punch will help using it as the cocking arm pin.
If you Force the barrel pivot sleeve bushing for the barrel pivot bolt in place and do not have all centered you will damage the shim. If not centered the shim will have a bent lip on the OD of the center of the shim and will make for a non smooth shim and bind. The pivot sleeve should slide into the block free.
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It's been awhile since I disassembled a 34. But I recall that it's easier to reinsert and attach the breech block WITHOUT the spring being compressed. Also, the breech block should not be installed with the barrel in alignment with the compression chamber - you will end up fighting the pressure from the latching ball. Hopefully this helps...
The most relevant tutorials and pictures that I could find are in the threads below:
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=14743.0 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=14743.0)
https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2006/08/spring-gun-tuning-part-9cleaning-and-deburring/ (https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2006/08/spring-gun-tuning-part-9cleaning-and-deburring/)
https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2006/08/spring-gun-tuning-part-10-lubrication-and-reassembly/ (https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2006/08/spring-gun-tuning-part-10-lubrication-and-reassembly/)
Good Luck!
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The only solution I see would be to remove the pin on the other end of the coking lever, but I don't know how to do that.
Very simple, just push the e-clip out from within the cocking lever and the pin can be pushed out if it doesn't just fall out.
(https://i.postimg.cc/4Nm663w2/Dian34eclip.jpg)
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Thanks outdoorman. Looks like I have options for next time. I'm going to test accuracy today and I'll report back. Hopefully I didn't damage it with my clumsy reassembly.
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Update. I put about 50 pellets through it today. With the Vortek kit and Krytox 205, it cocks smooth and the shot cycle is a lot shorter and snappier. There's still some resistance at the barrel hinge, but overall much better than factory.
Accuracy so far is equal or slightly worse than before, which is disappointing. It was accurate before. I'm getting mostly dime-size groups at 15 yards, with a few quarter-size. Point of impact has been shifty. Maybe it's still breaking in its new internals.
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...Point of impact has been shifty. Maybe it's still breaking in its new internals.
Make sure your stock screws aren't coming loose. Blue loctite helps.
Have fun!
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Update. I put about 50 pellets through it today. With the Vortek kit and Krytox 205, it cocks smooth and the shot cycle is a lot shorter and snappier. There's still some resistance at the barrel hinge, but overall much better than factory.
Accuracy so far is equal or slightly worse than before, which is disappointing. It was accurate before. I'm getting mostly dime-size groups at 15 yards, with a few quarter-size. Point of impact has been shifty. Maybe it's still breaking in its new internals.
Hopefully you didn't use the Vortek moly-impregnated seal - right? :o Moly & Krytox don't play nice together. I haven't good luck with those moly seals anyway. I tried one in my 34 and it shrunk like crazy after a very short time. I've had the best luck with OEM seals in both my RWS and HW rifles.
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Dan, thanks, I put blue loctite on all the stock screws when I reassembled it yesterday. It had about 24 hrs to cure before I shot it, which according to manufacturer is a full cure.
Junkie, I did replace the seal with the black Vortek moly-impregnated seal. From what I understand, moly itself mixes fine with Krytox (there is even a type of Krytox with moly in it), it's the grease carrier in typical moly grease that's the problem. So I think the seal should be fine with Krytox.
Regarding your problems with the Vortek seal, that's the first I've heard about that. Have others had similar problems? I still have the factory seal in case I need to reinstall it. It's in decent shape, one edge is roughed up a little. I'm not going to worry about it unless I notice a problem.
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I have an older Diana 34. Accuracy was not as good as I'd like. I sprung for a Vortek moly seal. After turning it down so it would fit in my compression tube (which I learned was under sized) it gave about the same results as the original seal. Since the original seal was too tight in the compression tube anyway I turned down the original Diana seal. It became much more accurate.
My conclusion is that the Vortek seal may have been to hard to conform to any irregularities in the compression tube. The Diana seal is softer and better able to flex. My original Diana seal is now eighteen years and has gone through countless rounds. It never really broke in I guess as it was still too tight. A too tight seal will give erratic results.
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There's still some resistance at the barrel hinge, but overall much better than factory.
If your saying that it feels too tight when returning the barrel to the closed position, you may have too much torque on the barrel joint screw. I did a mod to my stock so that you can adjust this screw without having to remove the stock all the time. Easy to do with a dremel tool and sanding drum. Apply a little stain to make it look natural.
(https://i.postimg.cc/HxSnXXBV/Diana_pivot_bolt_cutout.jpg)
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Nice tip, I like that.
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Mine is a little hard to return too, but then it is new. Think I'll wait a bit to adjust.
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Just shoot the fire out of it. Break it in and push all the new lube out the barrel. Every time I install a new spring kit it acts screwy for a while. Make sure you test with zero wind before masking decisions.