GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Diana Airguns => Topic started by: AG72 on September 21, 2018, 01:17:39 PM
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Today she arrived, my 350 in 177 cal, first impression: she is a tall girl! But nice to hug, trigger is fantastic, one of the best i have feldt, non of my weihrauches come close, the fwb300 is better but this come second. But i found a problem right away, atleast i think it is a problem, the pellets doesn't seat, half the skirt stick out of the breech, atleast the RWS superdomes do,JSB not so much but litle anyway, and when i close the barrel and open again there is a mark on the pellet and it looks bendt a bit, i have mailed the seller and wait for a answer but what do you guys think? I have not shot and see how accurasy is, just shot in the safetybox, could this be adressed with a file or is it to much wrong? Pictures of pellet before and after the barrel is closed
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Some guys use a AA battery to seat the pellet. I used an old toothbrush and some #10 solid wire to create a pellet seating tool as some of my guns do have tight breeches.
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God idea! The seller contacted me and said it was a common "problem" with the 350 and he used a pen to seat the pellets that are a bit harder built
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I have exactly the same trouble with a 350 .22, but only when I use the heavier pellets JSB Monster 5.52 and Straton 5.51, both 25.39 gr. No problems with HN FTT 5.53 14.66 gr or HN Baracuda Match 5.51 21 gr.
As I rarely use the heavier ones, also for a few shots, I improvised a "plastic tip", and give a very tiny tap, to push them entirely. Maybe it's time to an improvement with the toothbrush.. :D
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For those wanting to try the toothbrush seater - I make them by the pellet I plan to use. The wire pushes on the center of the pellet. I figure the height so the toothbrush body stops when it hits the breech. In that way I seat in to the depth I wish every time.
Note - different brands and types of pellets do not have the same depth from skirt end to internal body.
I forgot to mention, my seater works on fixed barrel guns, too. That's why I put the curve at the end.
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Here's another option you might find useful.
https://www.amazon.com/Air-Venturi-Pellet-Seater-Pellets/dp/B007HNDHH6?keywords=pellet+pen&qid=1537550310&sr=8-4&ref=sr_1_4 (https://www.amazon.com/Air-Venturi-Pellet-Seater-Pellets/dp/B007HNDHH6?keywords=pellet+pen&qid=1537550310&sr=8-4&ref=sr_1_4)
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Can't seem to find them any more, but I have a Beeman steel pellet seater, which works very well in seating pellets into the breech. I'm thinking that a ball-end hex wrench, of appropriate size, would also work well.
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Using an object to seat pellets requires an extra step, and requires one to have to handle an extra object, it is not handy and slows down the entire loading procedure.
I recommend chamferring (sp?) the breech opening with small conical rotary grinding stones like comes with a dremel type tool.
Select a small one that has a diameter slightly bigger than the bore size. chuck it into a cordless drill that will operate at a really slow speed.
Insert the conical portion into the breech opening and make sure to hold it straight in relation to the bore.
The conical stone will remove material from the whole circumference of the breech, but operate it in such a way that it favors removal from the top of the breech opening. The face of the breech block is slanted and that is why there is a problem with pellet seating all the way. Don't use heavy pressure, and don't use high speed.
Then select a very small spherical rotary grinding stone, and open it up a bit more with that.
With both stones, moving the drill in a circular manner, will make your grinding stones last longer, it spreads out the wear on the stone instead of
immediately grooving it. The stones will do a few breeches, and then need to be trashed or maybe reshaped.
This allows full seating with your finger with no added tool, and with no pellet skirt damage.
Don't damage the breech seal, and it may be a good idea to run a patch through the bore to remove grinding residue.
This operation is very easy to do, works great and does not reduce accuracy. It only takes a few minutes.
It works with any type breech that may be accessed, but particularly well with
slanted breech block guns like Diana's.
I hope this helps and makes sense. 8)
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I made a pellet seater from brass 8-32 hardware and the middle of a turnbuckle. It works well for fixed barrel.
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Great idéas!
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Had the same problem on a .22 cal D34, plus an uneven breech chamfer. Went with the above mentioned chamfer process and moved on to shoot good groups.
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I just use an old ball point pen, with the ink tube removed.
Careful though push too hard and it will run up the barrel a little :-[
With practice you can get a feel for it and seat all purdy!
I don't have to do it 'every' pellet that comes out of the pellet pen. But for those that do not seat well...
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Yes the chamfer on the breech block, plus a tight leede, often leaves the bottom part of the pellet skirt exposed.
I use a brass bore brush and some non-embedding JB bore paste to open up the leede a little. Now all my pellets sit flush at the bottom of their skirts and a mm deep at the top part of their skirt. Much easier that trying to ram all the pellets home.... ;)
-Y
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I didn’t read all the posts but my 34 did this I had to chamfer it to my liking’
I do this to all my breeches to make a smooth pop or flow into the lands-n-grooves & polish with 1000 grit to a mirror shine’
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First pellet testing done, 15 meters only cause it was stormy weather today so going to do some longer distance test later, JSB 10.34 was the winner and rws superdomes second, Crosman pellets shot about the same, 1 inch pattern
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Yes the chamfer on the breech block, plus a tight leede, often leaves the bottom part of the pellet skirt exposed.
I use a brass bore brush and some non-embedding JB bore paste to open up the leede a little. Now all my pellets sit flush at the bottom of their skirts and a mm deep at the top part of their skirt. Much easier that trying to ram all the pellets home.... ;)
-Y
Hi Yogi,
Please go into more detail about this JB/brush method.
I had a cheap .22 caliber B2 air rifle that had a tight spot in the bore, and the breech was also tight.
I was able to correct this by using a very tight patch
on a cleaning rod and aggressive valve grinding compound; it took a lot of elbow grease.
After correcting the barrel and going through the rest of the gun it became a fine shooter. Really surprised me!
Now regarding your method; I thought JB bore paste was gentle and removed little metal?
I have never used it, but have used similar products, and even toothpaste.
I thought that bore brushes were never to be pushed partly through the bore
and then reversed; and that doing so causes them to become jammed or stuck in the bore or cause damage to the brush?
It seems that this method would be very time consuming.
I'm having trouble wrapping my head around this process, maybe there's something I'm missing.
Thanks!
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soft brass brush. I had one with a cheap cleaning kit. JB non-Embedding, load it up, scrub away at the leede(opening in breech bloch were you put in the pellet). Scrub at an app. 45 degree angle to opening. In and out, all around, repeat. Think of it as valve lapping on a car engine. :P
Like I said when finished, bottom of skirt is flush with breech face, top of skirt is 1mm deepset. Why Diana's have a negatively canted brick block face I do not know. >:( :( :'(
As it sounds like you have done: push a pellet through your barrel. I use a thin wooden bowl for this. Then do the same thing at the tight spots. Or break barrels you can go back and forth, on side cockers and under levers you can only go forth.
Hope this helps,
Yogi
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First pellet testing done, 15 meters only cause it was stormy weather today so going to do some longer distance test later, JSB 10.34 was the winner and rws superdomes second, Crosman pellets shot about the same, 1 inch pattern
That's good shooting open sites with a magnum springer.
Good Shooting Brother Man
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First pellet testing done, 15 meters only cause it was stormy weather today so going to do some longer distance test later, JSB 10.34 was the winner and rws superdomes second, Crosman pellets shot about the same, 1 inch pattern
That's good shooting open sites with a magnum springer.
Good Shooting Brother Man
Thank you! The trigger on it is perfect so it doesn't feel like shooting a magnum springer, there is recoil but i am used to shoot with the Hatsan 125 so that helps with that
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all good ideas...
i constructed one similar to the one made by Louis Loria II
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Common thing with the angle breach block. You can receive the seat area buy you have to go slow.
TR ROBB offers an andjustable seating tool.
Here is 1 of mine. I have made several of these. You can grind the tip of the arrow point to get your depth and or for the caliber.
The pellets do not completely seal. Load a pellet seated in seat. Barrel broke open , hold a light at the breach end and look down the barrel. You will see the light of the unseated pellet.
Once the pellet is in motion the pellet skirt flars to make the seal.
(https://i.postimg.cc/1nF9jhXL/20130126_143512.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1nF9jhXL)
(https://i.postimg.cc/26cV3CD8/20130126_143512.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Thank you WHITEFANG! Now thats a big tooth...
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Anytime I can help I'm around.
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If you want antlers for knife and other handles. Go to a pet store. They have bins of of sawed up deer and elk antlers that they sell as dog toys.
You'd be surprised at how nice some of them look.
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Put another scope on her with a dampa mount and went to the cabin for some testing, very cold day, was -2.5 c this morning and windy, but meassured out 25 meters and set up some targets and tins to shoot at, zeroed the scope and shot some papertargets, wow this gun is a challenge to shoot accurately, very very sensitive on how you pull the trigger, you just cant pull it like with my other guns, you have to squeeeeeze it very gently and continue until the release, and do this consistently, if you don't the pellets goes away right or left, if done right you get rewarded, only shot 4 targets cause of the cold but the last one shows promises that i am on the right way
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"(..)this gun is a challenge to shoot accurately, very very sensitive on how you pull the trigger, you just cant pull it like with my other guns, you have to squeeeeeze it very gently and continue until the release, and do this consistently, if you don't the pellets goes away right or left, if done right you get rewarded (..)"
Exactly my case! Mine is 0.22 and, instead JSB, she prefers the HN FTT.
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"(..)this gun is a challenge to shoot accurately, very very sensitive on how you pull the trigger, you just cant pull it like with my other guns, you have to squeeeeeze it very gently and continue until the release, and do this consistently, if you don't the pellets goes away right or left, if done right you get rewarded (..)"
Exactly my case! Mine is 0.22 and, instead JSB, she prefers the HN FTT.
I have not tried those yet, but will do
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Your shooting a true magnum gun and only a 28mm piston. Many can not shoot this gun. Trigger adj is important.
Having had 4 of these and there clones I know all about that gun inside and out.
.177 is hot in that gun. All mine shoot crosman 10.5gr in .177 well. 22 is the better choice for me in all the Diana magnum guns 350/48/460/54. The 54 is as close to a pcp as it gets in the magnum. But it's in a sledge system.
Ever 350 had droop. I used the RWS/DIANA DROOP 1 PEICE mount and consider it to be good enough that I've used that mount on other brand guns. My 350 and clones were not scope eaters.
That's a gun you have to bond with. That gun will shoot off a bag great. I never had accuracy problems. Never had to choke hold the gun. After market springs do help tame the gun but in factory state it is still good. JMO
It takes practice but as mentioned you will be awarded once you and the gun date for a while. RWS superdomes will shoot out of that gun plus many other choices of pellets.
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To help with the scope breakage problem. I suggest the RWS ZR mount. I have one on my RWS 54 in 20 caliber (Hector Medina built) working great. I have a .177 RWS 54 too with an RWS Lockdown mount - soon to be replaced with another ZR mount the is being tuned by Hector-Medina.
Both shoot well. The .177 likes the Beeman Kodiak Match at 10.6gr at about 850f/s.
I tested over 80 different pellets with the RWS 54 and the FWB 300. The 54 likes other pellets too but the Kodiak Match was most consistent. I posted the test results several times here.
The 350 and the 54 have similar power plants so shoot quite comparably except the recoilless nature of the 54 makes it much more stable and forgiving.
I have the t06 trigger. The length of the trigger pull was a bit of an issue for me especially after Hector gave me a few LIGHT springs that puts the trigger pull in the 10-12oz range. I was able to drill and tap an adjustment screw into the T06 that easily gives a much more manageable length of trigger pull. A couple mm versus 1 cm. It helps a lot.
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The only Diana that has a similar power plant is the 460. Both have longer strokes than the 48/52/54
The 350 edges the 460 out by a bit in the stroke but all have the 28mm piston. The 350 has the most recoil of all I listed.
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To help with the scope breakage problem. I suggest the RWS ZR mount. I have one on my RWS 54 in 20 caliber (Hector Medina built) working great. I have a .177 RWS 54 too with an RWS Lockdown mount - soon to be replaced with another ZR mount the is being tuned by Hector-Medina.
Both shoot well. The .177 likes the Beeman Kodiak Match at 10.6gr at about 850f/s.
I tested over 80 different pellets with the RWS 54 and the FWB 300. The 54 likes other pellets too but the Kodiak Match was most consistent. I posted the test results several times here.
The 350 and the 54 have similar power plants so shoot quite comparably except the recoilless nature of the 54 makes it much more stable and forgiving.
I have the t06 trigger. The length of the trigger pull was a bit of an issue for me especially after Hector gave me a few LIGHT springs that puts the trigger pull in the 10-12oz range. I was able to drill and tap an adjustment screw into the T06 that easily gives a much more manageable length of trigger pull. A couple mm versus 1 cm. It helps a lot.
Dave,
I think the ZR scope mount is a Diana branded item. Hector knows for sure.
-Y
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Yes, 'Diana Bullseye ZR mount'
As far as I know, the other option to help the scopes is the Sportsmatch dampa mount - DM60 (1" tube) or DM70 (30mm tube).
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Whitefang: I stand corrected. I should have said similar power not power plant! My 54s are in the 17-20fpe range, similar to the 350 and 460. If I chose, I could beef them up a bit but no need. When I compared velocities for different pellets on the straight shooter OUR TAKE pages for the 350, 460, and 54 with my measured results on the same pellets, they were close enough to be able to compare them directly as being in the same power ranges.
Yogi: Of course you are right! I use Diana and RWS more or less interchangeably disregarding the contractual differences of who sells them where!
The ZR base is Diana Branded while the Lockdown is RWS. The 54 is RWS while the 56 is Diana but both share the same platform.
See why I am confused???
By the way, I finally met Hector at the Pyramyd Match last weekend.
All that being said the 350 is a fine looking and shooting rifle. I just prefer the side-cock with recoilless mechanisms. I'm too lazy to master the artillery hold!!!
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Thank you all for all your help, very nice of you! I will try the ZR Bullseye again now that i now how sensitive she is with the trigger, if not working i will buy another Dampamount, will also try some more with the RWs superdomes, h/n ftt and order some brown boxed crosman 10.5, i will also shoot her from a bag and try the artillery hold, i have only used my triggerstick and rested the gun at the front stockscrews directly on, no hands or gloves under the stock
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Went out to shoot again with the zr bullseye mounted, 25 meters and resting the gun at a bag at my ironingboard, first target shows shot with the gun resting at the front stockscrews, then the middle of the gun and then close to the triggerguard, i rested my left arm under the gun at the ironingboard in front of the triggerguard first targets was grouping low, then a bit higher when i rested it in the middle, and higher at the triggerguard, as you can see she want to be held close to the triggerguard, the image with 3 targets was held so, first image was 4 shots in a group and then ofcourse a flier so shot another one in the group, next 2 first shots was high so adjusted the scope but to much so i hit low, adjusted again and got 10 shots centered, next target are 5 shots in a tight group, all shots at 25 meters, very pleased with the result and that i don't have to spend a bunch of money on another mount, the zr works perfect! Now i need to try different holds with the triggerstick to see if the accurasy can get better with that cause it is easier to cary... And try longer distances
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The ZR base is very solid but is intended to protect the scope from recoil damage and really has little effect on accuracy. The first version was a bit sloppy in the rod/spring combination and limited accuracy a bit. Hector Medina tunes these by putting teflon buttons against the rod to keep them from moving side-to-side. He also trues the bore of the mount to minimize stress on the scope body. I have one of those and as I said, another on the way!!
Another suggestion. Straightshooters.com sells a kit of 18 different pellets with 25 of each kind for about 30 dollars. They range from light to heavy with some being lead-free. I suggest testing any new rifle with such a kit to see what weight range the gun likes best and what kind of velocity/energy you get.
You will find that the energy is usually just about the same as that is controlled by the piston/spring combination not the pellet. When you find a big difference, there may be something wrong with the particular pellet itself!! I have made this recommendation many times to many shooters to test a range of pellets. My .177 54 likes the 10.65 Beeman Kodiak Match best and its twin the 10.65 H&N Barracuda Match. Beeman rebranded the H&N pellet.
I attach the results of my pellet testing from 2015 for your information.
Happy shooting.
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Thanx Dave! I have read that test you did, very good info, i had the same "issue" with the zr bullseye on another gun as i had on the 350 so therefore i thought it was bad, but as in most cases, it's me behind the wheels being the trouble... Try, learn, fix, move on to next problem...
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Once the most friendly pellets are detected (including head sizes), I think that the consistency resulting from holding/resting is a continuous teamwork between the shooter and the rifle.
To the 350 .22 (synthetic stock), and currently, it's seeming to ME that the (easily repeatable) way should be..
- best rest is on my relaxed palm, with or without a glove (arm pending and also relaxed); depending if the back of my hand is on a soft or hard rest;
- the point of support near the trigger guard;
- with the trigger hand, thumb loose and the 3 fingers pulling in order to have 'some' pressure on the shoulder; the pressure should be just enough to keep the reticle more stable;
- just a shy touch with the cheek.
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The reason I like the rifles with sledges to manage recoil better is that I don't have to spend weeks learning the idiosyncrasies of the free-recoiling rifles. All the reading I have done suggests that the magnum springers are worse than the lower power ones.
I had a break-barrel that I had to relearn to shoot every time I took it out. It was a POS that I bought cheap and had no success with. chinese Walther Force 1000? I think.
A couple friends who bought into the Gamo high velocity game gave up in disgust even after hours of coaching.
I don't have a 22 but have one of Hector's limited run 20 caliber 54s. Once I got it broken in, I have had 100% hits on chipmunks (all head shots) at 30-35yds. Accuracy nearly as good as my FWB300 at 30yds.
I posted that a bit ago, I think on this site.
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Went out to shoot again with the zr bullseye mounted, 25 meters and resting the gun at a bag at my ironingboard, first target shows shot with the gun resting at the front stockscrews, then the middle of the gun and then close to the triggerguard, i rested my left arm under the gun at the ironingboard in front of the triggerguard first targets was grouping low, then a bit higher when i rested it in the middle, and higher at the triggerguard, as you can see she want to be held close to the triggerguard, the image with 3 targets was held so, first image was 4 shots in a group and then ofcourse a flier so shot another one in the group, next 2 first shots was high so adjusted the scope but to much so i hit low, adjusted again and got 10 shots centered, next target are 5 shots in a tight group, all shots at 25 meters, very pleased with the result and that i don't have to spend a bunch of money on another mount, the zr works perfect! Now i need to try different holds with the triggerstick to see if the accurasy can get better with that cause it is easier to cary... And try longer distances
Jörgen
I'm glad you're happy with the ZR Mounts.
It seems to me you have a 3rd generation set, which are substantially improved over the first two.
I also note that you are using a scope that is not common in the US: Delta Optical's Stryker,
¿how do you like them?
The process of Accurizing a ZR Mount starts with truing the rings to end up with proper lubrication after installing two Teflon buttons to allow for zero play and still low friction.
If you are satisified with the current degree of accuracy, then just pay some attention to the lubrication.
Go to EBay and buy a little bottle of a lubricant called "Liquid Bearings" it is one of the few lubricants I trust when steel rides on aluminum at high speeds, and use it sparingly on your ZR Mounts "rails".
This will prevent the aluminum from being eroded by the steel and will make your ZR Mounts remain accurate for some more time.
Specially in a hunting gun that sees relatively little use, the OEM ZR Mounts are enough, if you were to shoot for extreme accuracy, or shoot a LOT (a bout 15,000 and up rounds per year), then I would recommend getting those mounts Accurized.
If there is anything I can help with, let me know, now that I have located this thread I will check on it for updates.
Keep well and shoot straight!
HM
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The reason I like the rifles with sledges to manage recoil better is that I don't have to spend weeks learning the idiosyncrasies of the free-recoiling rifles. All the reading I have done suggests that the magnum springers are worse than the lower power ones.
I had a break-barrel that I had to relearn to shoot every time I took it out. It was a POS that I bought cheap and had no success with. chinese Walther Force 1000? I think.
A couple friends who bought into the Gamo high velocity game gave up in disgust even after hours of coaching.
I don't have a 22 but have one of Hector's limited run 20 caliber 54s. Once I got it broken in, I have had 100% hits on chipmunks (all head shots) at 30-35yds. Accuracy nearly as good as my FWB300 at 30yds.
I posted that a bit ago, I think on this site.
That's mighty good shooting, Dave!
Chipmunks are small and elusive quarry because they never stop moving! But, I see you have their behaviour "nailed down".
Thanks for your kind words and hope to see you again, next year!
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Hector, the Delta Optical Titanium is a very good scope, the one i have is a 4-16*42 mildot model, i think i payed around 350$ for it, very clear glas, lightweight also, about the lubricant for the zr mount, do you think feinwerkbaus gleitfedt would be ok, it´s a small tube with lubricant for their air rifles and only need some small drops and are supposed to last forewer, i have a tube so therefore i am asking
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When using it on a D 350.., be aware about what's written in the scope's warranty policy.
On the first video, about 3':30", he says that it is NOT airgun rated.
https://www.optics-trade.eu/int/riflescopes/delta-optical-titanium-4-16x42-ao.html (https://www.optics-trade.eu/int/riflescopes/delta-optical-titanium-4-16x42-ao.html)
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mpbby:
The ZR recoil absorbing mount reduces the felt recoil to the scope to less than 5% of actual. It is advertised to allow use of conventional scopes without damage.
Hector Medina has a recent blog on his site showing some recoil measurements to support the claim by Diana. Scroll down until you see an air rifle with a weird apparatus in the scope rings. Then read the section about the the tests of the ZR compared to the standard mounts.
https://www.ctcustomairguns.com/hectors-airgun-blog (https://www.ctcustomairguns.com/hectors-airgun-blog)
On the other hand, I haven't heard if Diana will replace scopes damaged while using their ZR mounts.
Hector - any comment on that????
If the mounts work as advertised, AG72 should be OK.
Dave
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When using it on a D 350.., be aware about what's written in the scope's warranty policy.
On the first video, about 3':30", he says that it is NOT airgun rated.
https://www.optics-trade.eu/int/riflescopes/delta-optical-titanium-4-16x42-ao.html (https://www.optics-trade.eu/int/riflescopes/delta-optical-titanium-4-16x42-ao.html)
Cross my fingers and hope it will hold up! If not then an expensive lesson learned...
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Thank you for telling the recent info at Hector’s blog. Nevertheless, and as we say in Brazil.., maybe “too much sand to my little truck”.
The project of the ZR is based on a fantastic idea, that Hector explained to me a couple of years ago, but that seems to me “too good to be true”. In practice, and in my words.., we should have a synchronized timing, repeatable, within each and all shot cycles, in order to have the scope without a rigid point of support when the huge forces happen. Hector is committed to assure the dream come true. Wisely, he continues to pay attention about the scope’s endurance by itself.
Simplifying the scenario by here.., the reality for me is that I have the ZR 1st Gen, with no tuning. So, I also cross my fingers to, at least, have increased the lifespan (holding zero) of each scope. I know that it’s just a matter of “time” (number of rounds). Btw, in Brazil, I don’t have any warranty covering the imported scopes..
So, for the 350, yes, I most probably depend on the scopes’ endurance, and I follow Hector’s advices when choosing them.
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On the subject of the ZR mount and perhaps I missed it somewhere but what is the difference between 2nd and third generation ZR mount? I know the difference between 1st and 2nd gen is primarily the rail diameter.. I was thinking maybe the 3rd gen difference is the mount accepts both one inch and 30mm scopes?
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On the subject of the ZR mount and perhaps I missed it somewhere but what is the difference between 2nd and third generation ZR mount? I know the difference between 1st and 2nd gen is primarily the rail diameter.. I was thinking maybe the 3rd gen difference is the mount accepts both one inch and 30mm scopes?
They always came in both 1 inch and 30mm.
-Y
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Correct Yogi however I thought the original one's were either 1" or 30mm. I know for a fact my 30mm ZR mount from PA, ordered 1-2 two years ago did not come with the 1" inserts. I ordered 30mm because the ZR's were almost always on backorder at PA back then and it was all I could get. I also recall at the time, thinking 30mm was probably a better option anyway because I could add 1" inserts if needed. That mount had the gen 2 thicker rails btw..
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The current version on Pyramyd has inserts to go from 30mm to 1" so it may be Gen 3.
I have a Hector modified version in 1" that started as a 1" so it seems to be Gen 2??
I have two coming from Hector. One with the 1" inserts trued by his methods the other with the 30mm trued for different scopes and rifles with his Teflon buttons to minimize slop.
First one is working great thus far on my 20cal RWS 54.
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Wow!
Lots of comments! That's good.
@ Jürgen.- if I understand correctly, gleitfett would be "cup grease", which would be a generic term that says every little. You would need to ask FWB itself if they recommend using that grease in a steel to aluminum high speed interface. If you search my blog, I have a slow motion movies that is then split into frame by frame, demonstrating that the mount moves about 10 mm's in something like 2 ms. This ends up being about 18 km/hr. Not a small speed by any linear bearing standard.
I know that Liquid Bearings has worked in all aluminum to steel situations I have found, so I can recommend that, other lubricants, you would normally to ask the manufacturer of the lubricant.
@ Dave.- there are so many variables involved, that it would be somewhat suicidal to offer such a warranty. And, if offered, how would you weed out the true from the spurious? Better offer all the information possible, even if it is too much for some.
@ Artie.- Essentially, the difference is the factory that made them. The original factory tried to skimp on some specs, rails were undersized, tolerances oversized and materials less than what had been hoped for.
Second factory improved much the tolerances and the materials. But still not good enough.
Third factory came up with a much smarter system that is more repeatable. Better materials and finishes and increased quality for the same cost. ¿How? By using adapters to allow the user to select 1" or 30 mm's, and dropping the Weaver rail.
The droop compensation is now in the bases, not on the rails.
Along this "route", it's the shooters who benefit.
Both Gen2 & Gen3 can be well Accurized for your extreme performance. Reality is that only one in every 30 or 40 airgunners has the patience and dedication to see a real difference between OEM and fully worked over mounts. Specially because you need a truly accurate rifle to test them.
Now, talking in general, our latest experiments show that scopes get destroyed by 2 different factors. On one hand is the obvious reverse shock of piston Airguns, but what MOSTLY kills scopes are vibrations originating in the powerplant and possibly making the internals resonate to a destructive natural frequency.
This resonance is what loosens screws and retaining rings and once space is created for something to accelerate (lenses, reticle, turrets etc) , the shock finishes the job.
Please look for my 3 entries about the ZRMounts. Each one explains different things that need to be understood.
Keep well and shoot straight!
HM
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Boy did this string of notes get hijacked!! We start with a discussion of a tight chamber making it difficult to load a new 350 and get to discussion of the ZR mount. A convoluted thought process going on here! I went back through the series and found that I !!!! mentioned the ZR base first so it's my fault!!!! Sorry about that.
Hector: I was just teasing a bit. I understand the problem of applying warranties to human efforts. There was a series of discussions on another website started by a guy who bought an air rifle in the 1990s. Shot it for years, modified, tinkered, damaged, and pretty much butchered the rifle. About 4 years ago he started demanding that the original seller refund his money and his costs for the modifications and IMPROVEMENTS he made to the rifle. The vendor rationally said no. The guy then proceeded to try to trash the vendor's reputation and business on most of the sites, including this one. I guess he finally gave up - or died??
It will take time and experience for a lot of shooters to develop the confidence to say that the ZR type base will reduce,not eliminate, damage to scopes. Improvements are still needed in both camps.
Cheers!!
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Dave you do not have to apologise! This is what forums should be about, discussion and helping, and since i have a ZR mount that i thought was broken, it´s my "fault" as well! I am very glad and thankful you all helping me out!
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Yes, it's your fault and you should feel guilty!
LOL!
Just kidding.
I'm a little under the weather now, and have to go to Nationals tomorrow, so I'm a bit overworked, my apologies too.
If we want to go back to the Original post intention, perhaps I should say that the best way to alleviate the Difficulty in chambering pellets in DIANA, slanted breech actions is by turning a small wooden or plastic piloted-cone to the appropriate shape and size, and then attach it to a "piano wire" rod that you can pull from the muzzle.
You can then cover the cone with sanding paper in progressive grits and give your gun a true in-line chamber.
Care should be taken with the muzzle end of the barrel with a crown saver type tool, but results usually grant this level of attention.
BTW, this method will work with either slanted or right angle breeches/breechfaces.
HTH
HM
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Hector:
Good luck and good shooting!
How did the Pyramyd shoot come out.
I had to leave to do other things otherwise, I would have hung around for a while.
The H&N guy gave me a sample of their new FT pellet (all five lots.) When I get my new scope set up on my .177 with the ZR, I will give them a wringing out to see how they do and will report on GTA someday!
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Dave,
How many new pellet shapes does H&N have?
I know of only one. The one that Hector reported about on his blog.
-Y
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There is only one shape. The sampler kit included 5 different production LOTS.
I assume the shape is one that Hector reported on. I didn't really look at it too close. It looked like a round head at quick glance.
Later today, I'll see if I can get a photo of the pellet and will attach it here.
Dave
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There are two "new" pellet shapes by H&N
The one that's about a year old is the Baracuda Hunter Extreme which got written about in the blog, the other is the Baracuda FT which is mentioned in the blog, but couldn't be explored in depth.
What Dave T got was a sampler pack of Baracuda FT. Domed, 9.75 GRS. 4.50 (or 4.51) head diameter. Not ideal for hunting.
I'll finish a report on Pyramyd Air Cup next week.
Keep well and shoot straight!
HM
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Hector is correct. It is the FT style that I got samples of. As noted, I'll do some tests too when I get a chance.
Dave
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Finaly got some shooting trough the chrony, but numbers was a bit low, around 258 m/s, 846 ft/s with JSB 10.34 and around 290 m/s 950 ft /s with JSB 8.44, but she is accurate so not disapointed with the gun at all
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Yes, it's your fault and you should feel guilty!
LOL!
Just kidding.
I'm a little under the weather now, and have to go to Nationals tomorrow, so I'm a bit overworked, my apologies too.
If we want to go back to the Original post intention, perhaps I should say that the best way to alleviate the Difficulty in chambering pellets in DIANA, slanted breech actions is by turning a small wooden or plastic piloted-cone to the appropriate shape and size, and then attach it to a "piano wire" rod that you can pull from the muzzle.
You can then cover the cone with sanding paper in progressive grits and give your gun a true in-line chamber.
Care should be taken with the muzzle end of the barrel with a crown saver type tool, but results usually grant this level of attention.
BTW, this method will work with either slanted or right angle breeches/breechfaces.
HTH
I use the ones in the link below for the jobs Hector mentions. I also use them to flare/true the skirts of JSB and AA pellets which are often deformed. Congratulations on your success with the 350. I love mine (.22) even though its the ugly plastic one.
https://www.squirreldaddy.com/category-s/324.htm (https://www.squirreldaddy.com/category-s/324.htm)
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Took her apart yesterday and noticed that there was some nicks in the pistonseal, luckily i had another one that i got from an online auction with a metall piston sleeve also, so swapped it and put the gun together and today i did some chrony shooting, before the numbers was 846 ft/s (258 m/s) with JSB 10.34gr, now 892 (272) and the power was 16 ftlbs (22 joule) before and now it's 18.5 (25) and with JSB 8.44 it was 951 ft/s (290 ish m/s) before and now 994 (303) and the energy was 16 ft (22 joule) before and now it's 18.5 (25) also, could not do any shooting string cause the sun didn't want to cooperate but the numbers are in the middle of different speeds that the chrony showed, hopefuly the accurasy is the same cause it was nothing wrong with that, will hopefuly do some testing next week when i have some time off
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I checked the Straightshooters OUR TAKE listing for the RWS 350
in .177 with the JSB Exact Heavy 10.34gr. They quote a muzzle velocity of 904f/s.
That is insignificantly different than your 892f/s.
Great job!
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I checked the Straightshooters OUR TAKE listing for the RWS 350
in .177 with the JSB Exact Heavy 10.34gr. They quote a muzzle velocity of 904f/s.
That is insignificantly different than your 892f/s.
Great job!
Yes thank you thats pretty close, and it was -2 C so that numbers can be even closer when it gets warmer here
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Do not expect the numbers to match to the third digit or even the second one very often. There are several sources of differences that make such precision very unlikely. Temperature, condition of the rifle, exact weights of pellets, pellet shape, exact barrel length, barrel cleanliness, and a host of others.
Use averages to get your estimates of velocity, energy, and accuracy. To get a velocity average, shoot at least 10 pellets over your chronograph and use the statistical program that probably was provided with your chronograph to get an good idea of performance. If it doesn't have one, most scientific calculators or calculator apps will have the same calculations available.
Keep the data and check your rifle regularly to determine the rifle's condition (sort of like taking your temperature to see if you are sick.) If you see a big change start looking for problems.
Comparing two rifles shot on different continents, or even side-by-side, with the same pellets, the same shooter, on the same range, etc.... will still give different results.
850f/s plus or minus 20f/s would be considered good. Repeatability in one rifle of plus/minus 10 day to day is good too.
Have fun!