GTA
Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2 and springers ,rams => Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2 => Topic started by: USAFANG6799 on August 27, 2018, 11:40:36 PM
-
Is tap water good enough to keep the YH Compressor cool so it doesn't reach the critical 65 C max temp?
I've been using a frozen milk jug to help keep it from going about 55 C. I'm wondering if an additive like a Water Wetter helps or is it just snake oil?
I'm thinking that since city water/well water has lots of minerals like rust and calcium would distilled water be better?
Many thanks!
-
Reverse osmosis water is the best without any minerals in it. Bottled water like Aquafina or something like it is fine. If needed you could use an additive like purple ice.
-
Reverse osmosis water is the best without any minerals in it. Bottled water like Aquafina or something like it is fine. If needed you could use an additive like purple ice.
Distilled water and RP Ice was what I was thinking about using like you mentioned. Was curious what others were using.
Thanks for your input!
-
Tap water varies quite a bit between localities. You should probably use imported mineral water with a quart of Russian Vodka to act as antifreeze. And you should probably throw out the entire batch after every use.
Actually, tap water should be fine. As long as you drain out the system between uses, you won't grow bio film in the system. The running temperature would also help kill organisms. No additives necessary. If it will run on Chinese tap water, ours should be fine.
-
Heck yeah I use tap water. No way I'm paying for water just to cool my compressor.
-
Heck yeah I use tap water. No way I'm paying for water just to cool my compressor.
+1
I'm lucky that I have a whole house water softener system, so that helps with the calcium deposit.
I'm thinking that adding CLR to the water would help with mineral deposits.
-
I use tap water also. I did the purple ice thing the first time and quite honestly, don’t see a difference this time without it. In fact, when I had the purple ice added to the water, it developed a slimy film that lined everything in the tank. I dumped it, flushed the lines, cleaned the tank and pump and am using straight tap water now with no issues and no slime!
-
Tap water varies quite a bit between localities. You should probably use imported mineral water with a quart of Russian Vodka to act as antifreeze. And you should probably throw out the entire batch after every use.
Actually, tap water should be fine. As long as you drain out the system between uses, you won't grow bio film in the system. The running temperature would also help kill organisms. No additives necessary. If it will run on Chinese tap water, ours should be fine.
Now ya tell me to throw out the entire batch!! As a retired chemist I've been drinking it, turning it back into water then putting it back in my bucket ;D :o
-
Heck yeah I use tap water. No way I'm paying for water just to cool my compressor.
But if your compressor cooling degrades over time which leads to premature failure was it worth it. Higher temps also equals to changing the oil more frequently.
Water is still cheaper than oil..........so far ;D
-
I'm lucky that I have a whole house water softener system, so that helps with the calcium deposit.
I'm thinking that adding CLR to the water would help with mineral deposits.
Now there is an idea worth considering!...... ;D
-
I use tap water also. I did the purple ice thing the first time and quite honestly, don’t see a difference this time without it. In fact, when I had the purple ice added to the water, it developed a slimy film that lined everything in the tank. I dumped it, flushed the lines, cleaned the tank and pump and am using straight tap water now with no issues and no slime!
That slime was there to make the water flow FASTER ::)
I'm wondering if it was there to prevent slim etc from building up on things?
-
I'm thinking that adding CLR to the water would help with mineral deposits.
I'm a sub-amateur chemist, but I'm not sure running phosphoric acid(CLR) continuously in your system won't have destructive effects. Also, if there's any iron in the system(and I hope there isn't), you'll get more rust running with a low pH(acidic) than with a higher one.
-
I'm thinking that adding CLR to the water would help with mineral deposits.
I'm a sub-amateur chemist, but I'm not sure running phosphoric acid(CLR) continuously in your system won't have destructive effects. Also, if there's any iron in the system(and I hope there isn't), you'll get more rust running with a low pH(acidic) than with a higher one.
What do you think about using vinegar? In the aquarium hobby, we often use vinegar to help remove calcium deposit on glass and equipments.
-
I just read not to use vinegar with aluminum. Especially cast aluminum because it's porous.
Cast iron and aluminum are reactive surfaces.
Looks like very few options to keeping the cooling system free from acuminating minerals in a compressor.
-
Looks like very few options to keeping the cooling system free from acuminating minerals in a compressor.
If I didn't have the whole house water softener, I would use CLR, in a diluted form, and then finish off with a good water only rinse. I would actually do this while the compressor is not in use of course, perhaps just a few times a year
-
Looks like very few options to keeping the cooling system free from acuminating minerals in a compressor.
If I didn't have the whole house water softener, I would use CLR, in a diluted form, and then finish off with a good water only rinse. I would actually do this while the compressor is not in use of course, perhaps just a few times a year
I'm a sub-amateur chemist, but I'm not sure running phosphoric acid(CLR) continuously in your system won't have destructive effects. Also, if there's any iron in the system(and I hope there isn't), you'll get more rust running with a low pH(acidic) than with a higher one.
Are the key words here "not full strength" and "continously"?
-
Looks like very few options to keeping the cooling system free from acuminating minerals in a compressor.
If I didn't have the whole house water softener, I would use CLR, in a diluted form, and then finish off with a good water only rinse. I would actually do this while the compressor is not in use of course, perhaps just a few times a year
I sent an email to CLR (https://clrbrands.com/) to ask them if it was safe to use in the YH compressors.
-
Distilled water - has no minerals in it to make deposits. ;D
-
Distilled water - has no minerals in it to make deposits. ;D
....and if you plan to use ice, you'll need to find distilled ice.
-
Just occurred to me!
............rain water!
Collect rain water. It's FREE
-
Distilled ice may be obtained by placing distilled water in the freezer. I think rain water would be fine as long as you distill it. ;D
-
Distilled ice may be obtained by placing distilled water in the freezer. I think rain water would be fine as long as you distill it. ;D
I'll pass on the task of having to make around 20lb of distilled ice, every time I want to fill my tank.
If I had to do this, I would just go back to the scuba shop for air.
.......but that's just me ;)
-
The water recovered by a dehumidifier is close to distilled.
-
Heck yeah I use tap water. No way I'm paying for water just to cool my compressor.
But if your compressor cooling degrades over time which leads to premature failure was it worth it. Higher temps also equals to changing the oil more frequently.
Water is still cheaper than oil..........so far ;D
There are plenty of ways these inexpensive compressors can fail, the water I use is the least of my worries. Also, if you take the head apart on your compressor you'll see how simple it is and that the water flows through a small portion of it. It would be easy to just take apart and clean and replace the 2 o rings if you did get any build up from tap water. I honestly wouldn't worry about it. ;)
-
Are the key words here "not full strength" and "continously"?
There is just the slightest chance I have yet again failed the reading for comprehension test ;-)
-
Are the key words here "not full strength" and "continously"?
There is just the slightest chance I have yet again failed the reading for comprehension test ;-)
Not to worry. As long as you do well on the Final Comprehension Test you'll graduate :P
-
Water wetter or whatever is just a sufactant.. Probably cheaper to use jet dry for dishwashers.. ( also used to break suface tensions in fine gold recovery )
-
Water wetter or whatever is just a sufactant.. Probably cheaper to use jet dry for dishwashers.. ( also used to break suface tensions in fine gold recovery )
Jet Dry........now there's an interesting idea that begs some research.
Good one!
-
The water recovered by a dehumidifier is close to distilled.
Yes it is but I'm thinking all the dust particles it picks up that get deposited on the coils makes me uncomfortable to use it.
Just occurred to me!
............rain water!
Collect rain water. It's FREE
Yea good idea BUT.......it's got Carbon Foot Prints from who knows where which must make it pretty dirty ;D ::)
-
Looks like very few options to keeping the cooling system free from acuminating minerals in a compressor.
If I didn't have the whole house water softener, I would use CLR, in a diluted form, and then finish off with a good water only rinse. I would actually do this while the compressor is not in use of course, perhaps just a few times a year
Got a response from CLR and they said they don't recommend using it in any mechanical pumps because it's too caustic.
I didn't ask if it's ok to use diluted like you suggested because they will probably stand by it being too caustic to CYA themselves.
I sent an email to CLR (https://clrbrands.com/) to ask them if it was safe to use in the YH compressors.
-
Water wetter or whatever is just a sufactant.. Probably cheaper to use jet dry for dishwashers.. ( also used to break suface tensions in fine gold recovery )
Here are the ingredients:
Ingredient Function
Water/Eau Diluent
Alcohol Ethoxylate Nonionic Surfactant
Sodium Polycarboxylate Antiredeposition Agent
Citric Acid Complexing/Sequestering Agent
Sodium Cumene Sulfonate Hydrotrope
Zinc Acetate Dihydrate Organic
Potassium Sorbate Preservative
Tetrasodium EDTA Chelating Agent
Methylchloroisothiazolinone Preservative
CI Acid Blue 9 Colorant
-
That looks good to me....