GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Bargain Gate => Topic started by: Rat Sniper (AKA: PaulT58) on August 22, 2018, 10:01:44 AM
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Sportsman's guide has the DAR Dynamic Air Rifles on clearance for $224.99. I wonder if they are selling off the rest of the first batch to prepare for the Gen2 that's supposed to be improved upon?
Using code SH2093 it dropped the price to 194.73 on a .25 caliber!
https://www.sportsmansguide.com/productlist/ammo-shooting/air-guns-bb-guns/1-new-arrivals/3-on-sale/5-clearance/dar-dynamic?d=121&c=1&b=DAR+DYNAMIC&todays_deals=1-New+Arrivals%7c%7c3-On+Sale%7c%7c5-Clearance (https://www.sportsmansguide.com/productlist/ammo-shooting/air-guns-bb-guns/1-new-arrivals/3-on-sale/5-clearance/dar-dynamic?d=121&c=1&b=DAR+DYNAMIC&todays_deals=1-New+Arrivals%7c%7c3-On+Sale%7c%7c5-Clearance)
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Thanks Paul
But, you just made my next choice of the air rifle a little harder...........LOL ;)
I want a new AR, I had it narrowed down to these,
A Gauntlet 22, or another Old/new Dan 20 and then up pops the DAR, in 22 cal.
It must be a repeater, except for the Dan, and be scopeable, choices, choices :-\.
Now, that I have got my feet wet with LL/QB 79, quite a learning experience,
I am not so intimated with a PCP, as I fall off the cliff. LOL
Tia,
Don
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Thanks Paul
But, you just made my next choice of the air rifle a little harder...........LOL ;)
I want a new AR, I had it narrowed down to these,
A Gauntlet 22, or another Old/new Dan 20 and then up pops the DAR, in 22 cal.
It must be a repeater, except for the Dan, and be scopeable, choices, choices :-\.
Now, that I have got my feet wet with LL/QB 79, quite a learning experience,
I am not so intimated with a PCP, as I fall off the cliff. LOL
Tia,
Don
Don,
If you're comfortable with the QB's then the DAR's will be a walk in the park! By far the simplest AR I have to work on. One hex head screw removes the stock, from there you can release the air with a small set screw then unscrew both ends of the air tube and you have ready access to the valve and regulator. The regulator, hammer spring and trigger are adjustable. The only thing I find intimidating is the trigger assemble itself since it's part of the mono block and everything is installed from the bottom. I equate it to building a ship in a bottle, which is why I have not yet attempted to disassemble it to polish the contact surfaces.
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Thanks Paul
Have you checked the bbl/shroud?
I wonder if the bbl/shroud can be changed to make is mouse phart quite?
I am working on a LCD for LL, with new internal baffles, 7 of them,
starlings are getting pretty spooky now. ;)
Tia,
Don
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Don I'll bet Hajimoto could make you some better baffles for the shroud. My 177 is pretty darned quiet at 25fpe but my 25 is very loud at 60fpe. I'm getting 34 shots on the regulator with the 177 but I could probably tweek it some more or maybe open the port and do a tad bit better.
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Actually you could make an LCD that replaces the end cap and you'd be all set, this gun wouldn't be that hard to make an LDC, finding the right thread might be a challenge but I'm sure it's metric.
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I'm curious about the port size of the .22 if anyone has that info I'd greatly appreciate it. I know that the 25 there's no sense opening it anymore than it is but the .177 is .133 so opening that up .017 would put you right at 85% of the bore.
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Be careful yall, was just reading their satisfaction guarantee and it does not include items that are a special buy, if you get a bad one you may be stuck with it. You will have to rely on Aim for any parts or warranty but SG washes their hands of it if on a special buy. Just sayin.
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My recent experience with SG on airguns is that they will not accept returns unless the wrong item was shipped. Any defects must be handled through the manufacturers warranty.
SG has also started to apply Ohio sales tax. They charge an extra tax on shipping as well.
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Best to buy 3 for parts etc :-\
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Well, so far Aim Sports has been pretty responsive to me needs and my .177 is now working perfectly. I’m willing to take that chance on the .25 knowing going in that at a minimum I’ll be replacing the o-rings. Even with what I’ll need to do on my end, I still feel this is a pretty good deal!
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Thanks Paul
Have you checked the bbl/shroud?
I wonder if the bbl/shroud can be changed to make is mouse phart quite?
I am working on a LCD for LL, with new internal baffles, 7 of them,
starlings are getting pretty spooky now. ;)
Tia,
Don
I’m with Wayne, I think just adding a LDC in place of the end cap would do the trick and it still would not be too long. I have a friend in Serbia who can custom machine an adapter, I'll have to get some measurements and send them to him and see what he can do. I don't necessarily need it for the .177, but it would be nice on the .25 I have coming.
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So I bit. Got a 25 coming.
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So I bit. Got a 25 coming.
Billy if you haven't been reading all the threads about this gun I suggest you do because you will more than likely be wanting to know ahead of time all the quirks of these new guns.
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So I bit. Got a 25 coming.
Billy if you haven't been reading all the threads about this gun I suggest you do because you will more than likely be wanting to know ahead of time all the quirks of these new guns.
LOL! At a minimum get you some #117 Dura90 o-rings to have on hand, you'll need those for the regulator! ;D
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I'm on the verge of getting a .177. Even with the known issues. If I have read correctly, the 177 has a faster rifling twist than normal and should stabilize heavier pellets. Ability to accurately shoot 13 to 16 grains around 900fps would be awesome.
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I'm on the verge of getting a .177. Even with the known issues. If I have read correctly, the 177 has a faster rifling twist than normal and should stabilize heavier pellets. Ability to accurately shoot 13 to 16 grains around 900fps would be awesome.
I have mine shooting 15 grain H&N Sniper Magnums at an average 859.38 fps with an average fpe of 24.60. I can also get between 3-4 magazines before coming off the regulator, so that's around 40-50 good shots.
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You talked me into it. Ordered a 177. Now to order some o rings.
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I went ahead and ordered a .25. After all, I shoot a .25 cal about 1% of the time so it made perfect sense.
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So I bit. Got a 25 coming.
Billy if you haven't been reading all the threads about this gun I suggest you do because you will more than likely be wanting to know ahead of time all the quirks of these new guns.
I've read all the posts with great interest, especially yours. I've been playing with airguns for fifty years and this looks like a fun one. I have a lathe and mill...rohmpm is Rohm Performance Machine.
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You talked me into it. Ordered a 177. Now to order some o rings.
Here's a chrony pic I did with my .177 also with the H&N Sniper Magnums
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1872/30326136168_1940a43ac1_b.jpg)
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You talked me into it. Ordered a 177. Now to order some o rings.
Here's a chrony pic I did with my .177 also with the H&N Sniper Magnums
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1872/30326136168_1940a43ac1_b.jpg)
I don't have any .177 but you've just about got me convinced to get one.....might as well get a .22 also, lol
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So I bit. Got a 25 coming.
Billy if you haven't been reading all the threads about this gun I suggest you do because you will more than likely be wanting to know ahead of time all the quirks of these new guns.
LOL! At a minimum get you some #117 Dura90 o-rings to have on hand, you'll need those for the regulator! ;D
Lol, ordered them yesterday. Figure I'll take it apart as soon as I get it. Any other suggestions, transfer diameter, trigger work?
Figure I'll have to spin up a couple baffles.
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Billy I hope ya get a good one like I did, the odd part about it is the fact that another forum member ordered the .177 early on (serial #2) and had problems with the poppet also, mine is #6 and shoots like a dream after putting the new reg&airtube o rings on it. These guns are a super deal right now and it's more than likely to make the room for the next generation.
This dang thread anyway, it's still got me on edge to push the button on the .22, there's not much about the .22 on this forum yet but I'm sure that little sucker is a powerhouse too and I'll be that it would shoot the
217-30-FN's great as well.
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You guys made me itching. I ask myself I already have a 0.22 Diana Stormrider, why do I need more entry level PCPs?
The main draw to me is the regulator and price, and seeing Wayne's adjustments made the rifles powerful (60fpe for .25 and 25fpe for .177).
My concerns are that
1. Noise - Any suggestion to moderate it? Does it come with a connector for suppressor?
2. Long range accuracy, I have not seen any report there. On the other hand Gauntlet does have reports on good long range performance.
3. Trigger quality - any concerns here? What adjustments you guys are making?
4. Regulator - is it just bleeding the air or truly regulator? If you left the rifle alone for a while will it shoot at different speed?
5. bad O-rings, but seems to be reasonably easy fix
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Greg the .177 is super quiet even at 25pfe, I shot a red squirrel today and there was a fox squirrel close to me and he never paid me no mind, he only looked in the direction of the smack then went on about his business searching for food. He never really knew I was there until I went to get the red squirrel and took off.
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Thanks Wayne, good to know the DAR177 is very quiet, I probably will get that one first.
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Greg I'm wondering how much longer they're going to have the sale, if it's still going on in a month I'll probably get the .22, it's hard to turn down at that price but I'm thinking it'll make a good slug shooter.
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Wayne, you have been the pioneer here. I am hoping these guns will do wonders in long distance (say 100 yards) with slugs. I was looking into swaging but seems fairly expensive. Casting seems a bit too complicated involving melting lead for my taste. So I may end up just buy some ready made slugs.
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Greg I've been casting a long time really but I started on the muzzle loaders which use pure lead also. I still have to buy my .177 pellets and slugs though cause there's no good molds out there for them. Swage dies cost a fortune plus then ya gotta go out and buy an arbor and other things, it's too rich for my blood. I'm really looking forward to when NOE finishes the .22 molds for pellets because I've got mostly .22's as it is. I love them slugs in .22, it's a five cavity die and it's really easy to make a big pile of them in a short period of time. To top it off I like them better than any pellet in the right gun. I don't think it would be a problem shooting them a hundred yards I just don't have a good enough scope for shooting them distances. I'd like to get that UTG Swat scope, it's compact, 16X, has side focus and 30mm tube for a nice wide view.
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Greg I've been casting a long time really but I started on the muzzle loaders which use pure lead also. I still have to buy my .177 pellets and slugs though cause there's no good molds out there for them. Swage dies cost a fortune plus then ya gotta go out and buy an arbor and other things, it's too rich for my blood. I'm really looking forward to when NOE finishes the .22 molds for pellets because I've got mostly .22's as it is. I love them slugs in .22, it's a five cavity die and it's really easy to make a big pile of them in a short period of time. To top it off I like them better than any pellet in the right gun. I don't think it would be a problem shooting them a hundred yards I just don't have a good enough scope for shooting them distances. I'd like to get that UTG Swat scope, it's compact, 16X, has side focus and 30mm tube for a nice wide view.
parts
Where are sourcing your lead. Will used wheelweights work. Ive got a buch of that that we cast jigheads with for fishing.
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Wheel weights work for powder burners but not airguns or muzzle loaders, it needs to be pure soft lead, I use lead pipe if I can find it with my metal detector but I recently bought a split pig ingot from Rotometals of 99.9% pure lead, it's going to last me a very long time. I weighed it when I got it at 58lbs.
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Greg, I sent pictures and dimensions to a buddy of mine who is making me an adapter for my .25 so I can add an LDC. He sells on ebay, so once I get the prototype and let him know how it works, he'll probably have some listed on ebay for sale. He makes an excellent product, fit and finish is outstanding at they really look like they are OEM quality parts. I'll post some pictures once I receive it from him.
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Greg, I sent pictures and dimensions to a buddy of mine who is making me an adapter for my .25 so I can add an LDC. He sells on ebay, so once I get the prototype and let him know how it works, he'll probably have some listed on ebay for sale. He makes an excellent product, fit and finish is outstanding at they really look like they are OEM quality parts. I'll post some pictures once I receive it from him.
Good to hear, thanks Paul
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I've been looking for an inexpensive lightweight repeater in .25 and this just may be it.
One thing I don't like, and it seems to be becoming more common, is the short breech. I'd like to see a longer breech for a more rigid barrel attachment. Hopefully it's stable enough as-is.
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These have a pretty heavy barrel and they seem to be attached quite well. I haven't had any issues with the barrel at all.
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These have a pretty heavy barrel and they seem to be attached he'd quite well. I haven't had any issues with the barrel at all.
I was very surprised at how heavy the barrels on these guns are myself. I've had my 25 cal apart and back together many times and the set screws holding the barrel seem to be more than enough IMO. The locating detent's for the set screws is plenty deep and seem to be holding the barrel very securely. I haven't had anything coming loose at all so far yet.
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Thanks for the reassurance guys.
Still thinking about it...
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My .25 will be here Wed. Already received my Viton 90 orings.
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My .25 will be here Wed. Already received my Viton 90 orings.
Great! Let us know how it goes.
You got the O-rings from the o-ring store?
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Greg when I was searching in the O-Ring Store I didn't see anything offered in Viton that size, I don't even know if they carry the Viton's but I'd like to get some myself.
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https://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=367_5_9&products_id=333 (https://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=367_5_9&products_id=333)
Is this the one?
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That looks like the one Greg, well I couldn't help myself and decided to get one in .22 as well and figured I might as well get the sale deal, also used a free shipping code of SH2713
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That looks like the one Greg, well I couldn't help myself and decided to get one in .22 as well and figured I might as well get the sale deal, also used a free shipping code of SH2713
Congrats Wayne! You got the complete set now! I'm still contemplating the .22, so I'm really interested in hearing your thoughts.
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Paul I'll be feeding it a steady diet of the boat tails I'm sure. Hopefully I don't have any poppet problems like some of you guys have with this one. My other two are still working fantastic yet.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/843/29517310238_a70902cc31_b.jpg)
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My .25 is scheduled for delivery today, I’ll be replacing o-rings and giving it a good once over before I even attempt to fill it with air. I’m also hoping it has the conical spring in the valve, I think that was part of the problem I initially had with my .177.
Quick question, is the end cap on the barrel shroud the same size and threads on both the .177 and the .25? I have a buddy machining me an adapter to add and LDC to the .25 to quiet the bark. I sent him the dimensions from the .177 end cap and am hoping they are the same!
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My other two don't have the conical spring so I really don't expect this one to be any different, I figure the stock that Sportsman's Guide has are probably all from the original batch of these guns and I'm sure that's why they're selling them at these bargain prices, also to make room for another probably better batch of them. I seriously doubt they'll be putting more time and labor into them before they ship them at this price. Once I put the good airtube and regulator o rings in it I'll also open up the regulator some while I'm at it. My 177 the regulator had written in sharpie 103 so I figure when they tested the regulator at the factory it was probably set for 103 bar before installing in the gun. I'll try taking more pictures of the internals of this one before I reassemble it and shoot.
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Mine did have the conical spring and I think i was one of the first few to get one! Ryan recalled mine and its been gone a couple weeks and havent heard anything back from them:( I miss it !
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My .25 will be here Wed. Already received my Viton 90 orings.
Great! Let us know how it goes.
You got the O-rings from the o-ring store?
Got them on Amazon. OR90BRNVI117X25. They are from www.sterlingseal.com (http://www.sterlingseal.com)
732-918-8004
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Paul I'm sure the threads are the same but the openings are different for the pellet to go through I noticed.
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Paul I'm sure the threads are the same but the openings are different for the pellet to go through I noticed.
Good, thanks! I figured the .25 had to have a larger opening, I don’t think a .25 pellet would fit through the hole in the .177 end cap.
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My .25 will be here Wed. Already received my Viton 90 orings.
Great! Let us know how it goes.
You got the O-rings from the o-ring store?
Got them on Amazon. OR90BRNVI117X25. They are from www.sterlingseal.com (http://www.sterlingseal.com)
732-918-8004
Thanks Billy!
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I have not ordered yet but planning to do so, first getting an DAR177 as I have no 0.177 PCP yet. I may get the DAR22 and DAR25 as well.
For O-rings, other than the ones for the regulator that should be 117 duro 90, how about the other O-rings? Are they better to be buna 70 or buna 90?
I would like to place just one order of O-rings and hopefully to cover all the future needs for all three calibers, even though I do not have the rifles yet.
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Greg I used BunaN 70Duro on the ends of the airtube and BunaN 90Duro on both my guns, still all working good. The only o rings other that I replaced was one for the barrel band (installed bad from factory) and a breech o ring which was my fault having things turned up way too far and blowing it out of the barrel doing a chrony test.
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Greg I used BunaN 70Duro on the ends of the airtube and BunaN 90Duro on both my guns, still all working good. The only o rings other that I replaced was one for the barrel band (installed bad from factory) and a breech o ring which was my fault having things turned up way too far and blowing it out of the barrel doing a chrony test.
Thanks Wayne. So both 70 and 90 should be fine in other places?
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Great I've only used the 90duro on the regulator so far, everything else has been 70duro.
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Ordered both DAR177 and DAR25 - felt so guilty now. Hopefully they are good quality and warranty still exist. Fingers crossed.
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The 177 arrived today. Wow, it's a good looking gun!
The o-rings showed up at the same time. Fortunately, it's holding air at 2000psi. Ran one mag through it to confirm function. So far so good.
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Good to hear. Are you going to tune it up?
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Just going to shoot it as-is for now. Will eventually tune for more power as long as I can get at least 40 consistent shots. My plan may be accelerated in the event of unplanned decompression.
Mounted a Bushnell Trophy Xtreme 30 4-16x. Had enough time before dark for an 8 shot 30 yard group with JSB Monster 13.43 at just a fuzz over 1/4". ;D
The only problem is the scope windage adjustment is maxed but still hitting 8" right at 30 yards.
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My .25 arrived today. I removed it from the box, inspected it for any apparent damage, found none, so I replaced the o-rings on the regulator and both ends of the air tube. I probably didn't need to because the o-rings looked a lot better than the ones that had come on my .177. I also shimmed the pivot on the cocking lever to reduce some of the slop. I aired it up and went to mount the scope and discovered the BSA 30mm scope I had removed from the DAR177 wouldn't fit on the DAR 25! I need taller rings so the magazine will fit. So, the cheap $17 Amazon 3-9X40 AO scope I had mounted on the DAR177 got moved to the DAR25 and the BSA is back on the DAR177! The 1" tube gave enough clearance for the .25 magazine, so it will stay as is until I get some tall 30mm dovetail rings to try. The .25 magazine fits much snugger than the .177 magazine and it stays in place better than the one in the .177.
I ran 4 magazine through it while I was sighting it in. It's getting 20 shots per fill before coming off the regulator. I haven't cleaned the barrel yet, so pellets seem to be all over the place. I also noticed some lead on one side of the shroud end cap, so it appears to be clipping the pellets. When I had it apart replacing the 0-rings, I cranked up the regulator a ¼ turn and increased the hammer spring tension by 2 turns. I'll run it over the chrony this coming weekend, but for now, it's aired up to 200 bar and is sitting in the gun safe to see if it holds air. I did notice that 2 of 3 set screws on the breech end to the barrel shroud were stripped, so the shroud isn't as secure as I'd like. I may see if I can retap them and use a couple larger sized set screws. I wish Ryan was still at Aim Sports, he'd probably send me a new shroud mount instead of having to send it in to be fixed.
So far, I'm happy. If it holds air, I'll be thrilled. Next task will be cleaning the barrel and running it over the chrony!
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My .25 arrived today as well. Box was is fair shape, the rifle was undamaged. The gauge was sitting on zero so I figured that was a bad omen, and when I first started pumping it up, it leaked from what sounded like 3 distinct locations as pressure began to build. But it wasn't long before they all stopped hissing and it was taking air. It has been fully charged for about an hour now so we'll see how it goes.
I had forgotten about the dovetail being nonstandard but I rummaged around until I found a Picatinny adapter that would clamp onto it and I got a scope mounted.
Meanwhile, it looks like mother nature has other plans for shooting tonight. >:(
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Do they need special rings? I only have the dovetail and Weaver rings. I assume they are 11mm and 20mm, not 10mm.
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A couple of days ago I ran 3 entire clips of Eunjins over the chrony and they were all regulated shots, I'm thinking maybe the regulator is settling in some but can't say for sure. I did go check my order number for the 22 at Sportsmans Guide and I have a Fedex tracking number now but it's not yet being registered through Fedex. I figure by this time tomorrow it's going to be on a truck and on it's way here. Hopefully I'll see it by Saturday.
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The dovetail is spec’d as 10mm. I just lucked out that I had a Picatinny adapter that would grab it firmly.
As to how the rifle is working, it held air overnight so maybe I got lucky. Last night I set up a flashlight and ran about 30 shots through it. It’s doing 46fpe with JSB Heavies (34gr). Those grouped best...about 1/2” at 25 yards. The shots showed vertical stringing so I’m guessing the regulator and state of tune are playing into that. Meaning it should improve with break in and adjustments.
I haven’t inspected the barrel yet but I sensed the bore is rough based on how it felt pulling cotton patches through. There’s also a slight hitch when chambering a pellet. So a little leade work and J-B is in the near future. Will check and dress the crown as well.
It’s surprisingly light and shoulders really well. It looks good, the checkering is nice. Overall it seems like a killer deal for anyone who is okay with the likelihood of replacing some O-rings early on.
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Mine is holding air as well! Of course I replaced the o-rings just in case. I saved the ones I removed, so they will become spares. Sounds like I may not have had to mess with them, but oh well, what’s done is done! I hope to run some pellets over the Chrony today and see what she has.
As for the rings, check what you have, some allow you to flip the edge that tightens to the rail and you can get them to work. That’s what I did for the 1” Scope I have on mine. I need a set of tall 30mm rings to be able to mount my BSA scope on the .25 and have it clear the magazine, so will order a set in 10mm just to be sure.
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Neither of mine ever stopped holding air once I put good o rings on the regulator, I got three red squirrels today with my .177 ;D
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Mine scheduled for delivery Saturday
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I just pulled my .25 barrel and they totally blew it on the crown:
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=6019)
Looks like I'll be taking about 1/8" off the end and recrowning. Sadly this sort of incompetence is par for the course with cheap rifles. I have seen crown defects with multiple Crosman and SPA barrels. A notable exception has been the QB barrels.
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Jason, how do you separate the shroud from that retainer piece that's next to the breech? Or, I guess the better question is how do you separate the shroud retainer thing from the breech?
My .25 that arrived yesterday had 2 of the 3 set screws stripped on that retainer piece, so the shroud just spins around the barrel. I'd like to get that piece off so I can either replace it or tap two of the hole for a larger sized set screw.
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Paul, the collar is threaded to the tube just like the end cap at the muzzle. It has threadlocker so I threaded an M3 screw into one of the grub screw holes to give me leverage. The way I did it was, I pulled the barrel (w/shroud still attached) from the breech, then once I had the shroud in hand by itself, removing the end cap was pretty easy.
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Thanks Jason. Can the piece that has the 3 set screws be removed or is it somehow attached to the barrel? The way it just spins has me a bit confused as to how it attaches to the breech.
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Yes it threads into the tube, and is secured to the barrel with the set screws. It does not attach to the breech in any way.
If you take the two set screws out of the breech and pull the barrel/shroud assembly, you'll get it sorted.
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Yes it threads into the tube, and is secured to the barrel with the set screws. It does not attach to the breech in any way.
If you take the two set screws out of the breech and pull the barrel/shroud assembly, you'll get it sorted.
You weren't joking when you said they really like the loc-tite! Holy cow, it would have been much easier if I owned a Gorilla, but I did manage to get it apart. I also e-mailed Aim Sports about the stripped set screw holes in the retainer part. I also asked about getting a cone shaped valve spring. I got a response saying they had the set screws but the the spring would not be available till Friday. I hope they send the part the shroud screws into, that's the part that's stripped, not the set screws! Oh well, I guess I see what they say on Friday.
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Glad to hear you got it apart. My shroud spilled its guts tonight
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=146178.msg1503119#msg1503119 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=146178.msg1503119#msg1503119)
so I need to see about getting a replacement end cap and possibly the shroud tube. Would you mind telling me how you are contacting them?
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Glad to hear you got it apart. My shroud spilled its guts tonight
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=146178.msg1503119#msg1503119 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=146178.msg1503119#msg1503119)
so I need to see about getting a replacement end cap and possibly the shroud tube. Would you mind telling me how you are contacting them?
I contacted Ed Morales, another member had posted his email address, although they had a typo. His email address is edm@aimsportsinc.com
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Great, thank you sir. I got antsy and already put in a support request via their web site so if I don't hear back in a day or two, I'll try Ed.
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Went to buy a DAR22 to complete my set, only to find that the price has gone up. Oh well, I guess there are too many issues and it is not worth to sell them anymore.
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Ed told me that they are longer offering support for DAR rifles. Either return to SG for full refund, return to DAR for a replacement Gen 2 gun in the second quarter next year at no additional cost,or you are on your own.
I chose the latter, I had $194.00 in my gun. What take a refund when I get an exchange, upgraded gun for the same price vs the inevitable price I crease for a properly engineeted/fi ished gun
It would not be reasonable to destroy returned guns so I would suspect that next year there will be a lot of "refurbished" DAR rifles updated with
Gen 2 upgrades.
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Well, my 177 developed a leak while I was away from home today. Gauge is now on zero. Time to put the replacement o-rings to use.
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Well, my 177 developed a leak while I was away from home today. Gauge is now on zero. Time to put the replacement o-rings to use.
Did you change the o-rings on the regulator?
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FedEx supposed to deliver dar177 and fast today. Midnight now and still waiting...
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Well, my 177 developed a leak while I was away from home today. Gauge is now on zero. Time to put the replacement o-rings to use.
Did you change the o-rings on the regulator?
Still factory o-rings. Didn't have time to change them out and it will be a while til I can get to it. We are spending all spare time helping our son get his first house livable.
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Well, my 177 developed a leak while I was away from home today. Gauge is now on zero. Time to put the replacement o-rings to use.
Did you change the o-rings on the regulator?
Still factory o-rings. Didn't have time to change them out and it will be a while til I can get to it. We are spending all spare time helping our son get his first house livable.
Good to know that its the original o-rings having problems.
So far it seems the original o-rings have "consistent" problems. Have not heard a case where the duro 90 blown ups yet. So I will change the regulator o rings before doing anything when I receive my new DARs, which were supposed to be delivered yesterday but still showing "out for delivery", now for more than 24 hours. Don't know Fedex works on Sundays.
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I tried my .177 without immediately replacing the orings and it was a waste of air cause the o rings that come with them are like putty, they're no good !!! I replaced them on my .22 before I aired it up, the trigger is actually decent on this one as it was on the .177, I'll be going out this morning to sight it in. Once I get it sighted in I'll do a 40 yard shot group with this one too. I also did a chrony test with it this morning and the way it's adjusted I get 27 shots on the regulator, I'll leave it like that because my air guy is on his way back from Florida (Keys) right now, he said to come by his house after 12pm Tuesday cause I just talked with him on the phone as he was just getting on the road.
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Wayne, did I understand correctly that's 27 shots on the .22 cal? I don't know how hot you have it running but I'm getting a similar number of shots on the .25 cal (45fpe with JSB heavies) after installing the shortened hammer spring and adjusting the end cap (RVA). If you get motivated, give it a try and let us know how it works out.
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Jason I basically only turned up the regulator one turn and that's about it so far, I got side tracked working on another gun soon after working on the DAR22 the little bit that I did. Jason I'm not really crazy about the pellets that I was shooting with it today either, I'm sure that JSB's will be better, I'm really looking forward to getting my .22 pellet mold from NOE though, that will give me heavier pellets. I never did have the barrel off it yet and next time I'll take it out to measure the port, I know there's room to open the port in my .177 but don't know about the .22 yet.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1852/43713338704_ea5b242ee6_b.jpg)
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Wayne, I just saw your string in the other thread. Something like 37fpe on average with Baracudas which is a hot .22 so I’d say our tunes are in the same ballpark.
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Jason I'm super happy with these guns, the accuracy of them amazes me, even that .177 dumbfounds me every time I shoot it, the darned thing is like a laser! I gotta hand it to the Chinese, they sure know how to make a great barrel but like yours was they don't go the extra mile to worry about everything like the crown, burr's etc. Mine are the same way really and they'll all eventually get a chance to get a fine tooth comb through them. Right now I couldn't be happier with these guns but not everyone cares too much about tinkering. I've been smithing on guns in general most all my life when needed, it's almost second nature to me even without the nice lathe and mill I'd love to have, a person can do wonders with what they have at hand.
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I am at work but Fedex indicated that both DAR177 and DAR25 have been delivered.
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Greg I'll be looking forward to hearing about your new DAR's when you're able to get to them !!!
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Wayne, I just got home and opened boxes, they look great. The wood, the big tube and thick barrel, and front barrel ring all making the rifle looks solid. I will try the change the o-rings first. I only got the 117 Duro 90 rings here hope those are enough for the regulator and air tube rings.
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I used the Duro90’s on the regulator and both ends of the air tube and they are holding up just fine! If that’s all you have available, I would use them and not think twice about it again...
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I see that they still are selling all three calibers on Sportsmans Guide but they're at full price like they were to begin with.
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Greg I've only used the 90duro on the regulator myself, if I hadn't had the 70 duro of the -117's I probably would have used them at both ends too but I already had a bunch of them that I had started out with after ordering a bunch from the O-Ring store. The 70DURO weren't hard enough for the regulator application but they are for either end of the airtube though.
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Thanks Wayne and Paul, sounds i am in good shape.
Both rifles come with zero air in the tube. So I do not have to worry about emptying the airtube.
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Finally opened the DAR177 up and changed the 4 o-rings, lubed them with silicon grease, all looks really good and put it back - dah, it does not hold any air.
I found the tube is leaking air in the middle, so I installed the regulator on the wrong side of the tube. Fixed that and put it back - dah, still not holding air, all the air are going out from the barrel.
I noticed the bolt moves back and forth with applying little force, did not feel any spring engagement. I checked the DAR25, the bolt behaves the same.
There must be something simple I am doing wrong. Any suggestions?
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Finally opened the DAR177 up and changed the 4 o-rings, lubed them with silicon grease, all looks really good and put it back - dah, it does not hold any air.
I found the tube is leaking air in the middle, so I installed the regulator on the wrong side of the tube. Fixed that and put it back - dah, still not holding air, all the air are going out from the barrel.
I noticed the bolt moves back and forth with applying little force, did not feel any spring engagement. I checked the DAR25, the bolt behaves the same.
There must be something simple I am doing wrong. Any suggestions?
Did you cock it before filling it? If not, try that. Mine will leak out the barrel if I don't cock it after completely degassing it.
I have also put the regulator in the wrong end, that's easy to do! LOL!
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Paul, that fixed it - thank you!
Interesting that the first time I cocked it, it would still leak. I pulled the trigger once, and then cock it again, and it worked.
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Ah, glad to hear you got it working.
Your experience reminded me of something I encountered on the rebuild that caused the poppet not to seal. There’s a brass bushing threaded into the valve body that guides the valve stem. When I reinstalled it, I applied threadlocker and snugged it up (threadlocker is anaerobic so being tight helps it cure more quickly).
Unfortunately, the poppet then leaked badly when I tried to fill it. So I took it apart to burnish the poppet against the valve seat with a slurry of J-B bore paste and polishing compound. After spinning the parts together for a few seconds, I inspected the valve seat and sure enough, there was a polished crescent appearing instead of a uniform circle. It occurred to me that the brass bushing might have canted ever so slightly when it bottomed out (tightened), whereby holding the valve stem at a slight angle and preventing the poppet from seating fully. So I backed it off a quarter turn and tried again. Very quickly a nice polished circle appeared. Once reassembled, it sealed perfectly from zero pressure with a hand pump.
I then set it aside overnight to allow the threadlocker to cure. The point being, if I had fired it right away, quite possibly the blast of air would have blown the liquid threadlocker right out of the threads and then the bushing would be apt to back out over time.
Tl;dr Don’t bottom out the brass bushing in the valve body. Apply threadlocker, thread it in until snug and then back off ¼ turn. Then install the poppet, valve spring, and cap…what that does is it presses the poppet against the valve seat and aligns the bushing to the valve stem while the threadlocker cures.
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I may have to give this a try. My .177 is leaking again, so I'll be tearing into it again to see what's going on! I just fixed the air leak in my Mrod, and now this... Does it ever end?
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I'll be taking my .22 apart because it's got poppet leak problems too but doesn't leak very fast, it would probably take a few days to completely leak out but then I have to deal with filling from empty again, that just won't get it. ;D
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Jason, good to learn from your experiences, it should come handy when I adventure further.
I worked on the DAR25, much easier now. I did find that one of the screw holding thew barrel band is stripped and will not tightening. Fortunately the other screw works. Hope I can get a new screw to replace the stripped one somewhere (HomeDepot?)
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My 25 was the same way except my grub screw wasn't stripped it was the aluminum barrel band that was stripped. I put the replacement on it already and you gotta be easy on that barrel band cause they're soft.
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My 25 was the same way except my grub screw wasn't stripped it was the aluminum barrel band that was stripped. I put the replacement on it already and you gotta be easy on that barrel band cause they're soft.
I assumed it was the screw but you could be right that it could be the barrel band. Did you get an replacement from the manufacturer?
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Ryan sent me the barrel band and replacement for some badly corroded screws from the trigger mechanism. I tried to salvage the originals but 2 of them got super deep corrosion, the trigger adjustment screw was so bad after I cleaned it up with a brass brush it ended up being way too loose and wobbled. I had to get it out because it was seized right up out of the box.
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I found another stripped screw on my .25 today. One of the trigger guard screw holes was stripped. This aluminum is just too soft.
On the theory that more threads in contact with one another would give better holding strength, I swapped the two M5*5 grub screws that’s hold the barrel to the breech for two M5*8 grub screws. They still sit below the top of the breech but that extra 3mm of thread length should help them hold better with less chance of stripping.
I tried the same with the grub screws on the should retainer collar, but two of the three holes were just too stripped.
I also replaced the grub screw that holds the valve in the breech with a M6*10, a M6*8 would have been perfect, but didn’t have one on hand. This is inside the stock, so even though it sticks out .5mm it won’t snag on anything and should provide better strength and less chance of getting stripped.
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If the screws get rusty then that is a serious concern. That means theses screws will get rusted down the road.
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DAR25 cartridge will not take H&N Barracuda, a tad too long. Have to settle for Benjamin and others that are lighter
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I tried them too Greg and they're a no go. That's going to be a pellet reserved for my Mrod.
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The Barracudas worked well in my AT44
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Well, they're gone! The Dynamic DAR trio has been pulled from the SG website! They were short-lived, but will probably return someday in an updated version. They may also end up being the Tucker of the Air Gun world! :o
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Ryan had me send mine back and I talked to Ed about how its coming .. And he has no record of my rifle :-\
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Ryan had me send mine back and I talked to Ed about how its coming .. And he has no record of my rifle :-\
That is not a good sign. Hopefully just transition woes.
Please get us posted on the solutions
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I shot my DAR25 first time for one cartridge. Now I could not get the cartridge out. Struggled for one frustrating hour to no avail. My DAR177 do not have this problem. Any suggestions on what could be wrong?
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Greg, the magazine in my DAR25 fits much tighter than the magazine in my DAR177, in fact, if I tilt my DAR177 to the left while cycling it, it will slide out of alignment and not load the next pellet.
As for your stuck magazine, make sure the bolt is all the way to the rear and run a rod through the barrel to ensure you don’t have a pellet that’s half way into the barrel. If all is clear, it may just take some muscle to get it out. I would App,y pressure at the base of the magazine from the right side of the breech to ensure you are sliding it straight out.
Good luck and keep us posted on your results.
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Had same problem on my 22 and 25. The cause was double loaded. Took a round rod and tap,tap on the wild of the mag and slowly the mag would cut the pellet in half and the mag would come out. Then stuck a cleaning rod down the barrel and got the remaining piece out.
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Wild should be side. Don’t know how that happened?
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Thanks Paul and James. Eventually I removed the barrel and found a pellet half in barrel and half in cartridge. Do not know how I made that happen. I guess it was the last pellet, my push did not go full but the cartridge rotated, and the bolt can no longer reach the pellet.
Good thing this gun is easy to disassemble. Credit to the designer.
I like it so far. Already dumped four cartridges after getting the cartridge to work. It is so easy and quick to shoot, need to watch out for my pellet supply.
Initially my barrel shoots to the right, slightly right when at 7 yards, about 2" right when at 17 yards. So I inserted two layers of aluminum can to the ring foot,. Now it shoots about 1" right both close and far. Still trying to figure out why is that. Seems make no sense