GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Bargain Gate => Topic started by: Rob M on August 13, 2018, 04:13:02 PM
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when I got my 7by 12 a few years ago these were all 600 plus ..not bad for a starter lathe
https://www.ebay.com/itm/550W-Precision-Mini-Metal-Lathe-Metalworking-Cutter-Tooling-Drilling-Bench-Top/122238549083?epid=895598229&hash=item1c75fc3c5b%3Ag%3AbPoAAOSwBWJbYovz%3Asc%3AFedExHomeDelivery%2176065%21US%21-1&_fsrp=1&_udlo=300&_sop=15&_nkw=mini+lathe&_sacat=0&_udhi=470&_from=R40&rt=nc&LH_TitleDesc=0 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/550W-Precision-Mini-Metal-Lathe-Metalworking-Cutter-Tooling-Drilling-Bench-Top/122238549083?epid=895598229&hash=item1c75fc3c5b%3Ag%3AbPoAAOSwBWJbYovz%3Asc%3AFedExHomeDelivery%2176065%21US%21-1&_fsrp=1&_udlo=300&_sop=15&_nkw=mini+lathe&_sacat=0&_udhi=470&_from=R40&rt=nc&LH_TitleDesc=0)
says delivery in 4days
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That's seems like one heck of a good deal.
What accessories would be required to make the lathe functional?
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That's seems like one heck of a good deal.
What accessories would be required to make the lathe functional?
just some turning tools , like 12-15 bux for a generic set.. I do think it comes with an mt2 tailstock chuck , if not , those can be had aswell for 14.99 ( cheap starter one )
im getting links for ya now
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cheap cheap starter tools that work and will get you making parts
https://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-mt2-mini-lathe-drill-chuck-42340.html (https://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-mt2-mini-lathe-drill-chuck-42340.html)
that's for the tailstock , to hold drill bits
and this is the turning set, again cheap as dirt to start making a part
https://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-lathe-tool-set-90742.html (https://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-lathe-tool-set-90742.html)
add in a 20 % coupon on the tools , ur looking at 30 bux
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I'm trying to find a good place to hide my wallet.
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I'm trying to find a good place to hide my wallet.
hahaah, same here and I already have everything I need.. All the ebayers are selling these super cheap , my guess is a new model was released by seig and theyre dumping old inventory.
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Used one for years, did what I needed you have to improvise a lot, did spend a lot of dollars on upgrades lol!! enough I could have bought the lathe I now have but for limited space, they work well. David
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Man, I JUST bought one on Ebay for $416... I was looking for the $368 one for a WEEK!! >:( Oh well... These can be good bargains, I did the math, and as long as you're willing to do the leg work, you can get:
16" bed kit
All metal gears
Metal Main gears (drive gears?)
Upgraded headstock bearings
All for less than the cost of a 7x16 out of the box. That's the plan for me...
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Used one for years, did what I needed you have to improvise a lot, did spend a lot of dollars on upgrades lol!! enough I could have bought the lathe I now have but for limited space, they work well. David
yep , the upgrades are endless.I even did a gear reduction for the timing pulleys..
TOM, most are still selling for that, about 430.. I searched after I stumbled on this one.. still cheap as dirt
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I've been wanting to try out a lathe for quite some time. So this may be the best opportunity. I submitted an offer of $300. I'll post if I hear anything back.
The sale on these ends in less than 12 hours. Hopefully I get a counter offer or I will just pay the $368.
Thanks Rob! :)
Taso
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awesome Taso .. Yea, you cant even get a rusted piece of junk on craigslist for 368.. I always look just in case there is a jackpot find , and there never is
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As for accessories to get going, In addition to the chuck and turning bit set Rob listed, I would also get the center drill set for starting centered holes. https://www.harborfreight.com/center-drill-countersink-set-5-pc-60381.html (https://www.harborfreight.com/center-drill-countersink-set-5-pc-60381.html)
I found shimming the bits in the stock tool post to centerline to be a pain. I ended up getting one of the A2Z quick change tool posts. Unfortunately, they aren't in business anymore, and similar units through LittleMachineShop are over a $100. I did see a Chinese clone around $40. Here is a review, https://www.machinistblog.com/review-40-qctp-for-7x-mini-lathes/ (https://www.machinistblog.com/review-40-qctp-for-7x-mini-lathes/), Here is a source in China that I have not had problems with https://www.banggood.com/search/tool-post-holder.html (https://www.banggood.com/search/tool-post-holder.html) usually takes 3 weeks, They also have a US warehouse that is less than a week https://us.banggood.com/wh_buy/Usa/Tool-post-holder.html (https://us.banggood.com/wh_buy/Usa/Tool-post-holder.html). The tool posts are also on ebay.
After trying a number of different turning bits, I now use this one most often (it may be too large for the stock tool post) https://www.banggood.com/SDJCR1010H07-10x100mm-Lathe-Boring-Bar-Turning-Tool-Holder-For-DCMT0702-Insert-p-1082634.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN (https://www.banggood.com/SDJCR1010H07-10x100mm-Lathe-Boring-Bar-Turning-Tool-Holder-For-DCMT0702-Insert-p-1082634.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN) and the matching inserts https://www.banggood.com/10pcs-DCMT070204-YBC251-Carbide-Insert-for-SDNCN1010H07SDNCN1212H07-Turning-Tool-Holder-p-1081767.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN (https://www.banggood.com/10pcs-DCMT070204-YBC251-Carbide-Insert-for-SDNCN1010H07SDNCN1212H07-Turning-Tool-Holder-p-1081767.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN). I realize machinists have strong opinions about chinese inserts but at my tinkering level they seem to work.
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Hi All,
Is this the same lathe?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9s9hsYgLmyQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9s9hsYgLmyQ)
Taso
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yes, but these lathes almost never come defective from the box..not sure what his issue was , I did not watch
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now I watched, agreed the motor mount stinks..but its more livable than he paints it to be.
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One of the motor mount bolts stripped the threads in the motor case and the motor was loose. The bolt was only engaged in two threads deep. He fixed it with a pair of exhaust clamps and ingenuity.
Taso
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Well, in a couple days I will have a new lathe. ;D "Machine Shop Talk & AG Parts Machining" forum be warned!
Thanks,
Taso
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hhaahahahahahahaahaa
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Be known guys you can Easley spend way more on these little lathes that you could buy something much better for the money, been there done that. gears extended bed chuck,. quick change. and tooling get ready. this is a addiction as bad as airguns. David
http://www.grizzly.com/metal-lathes?rankBy=price+asc (http://www.grizzly.com/metal-lathes?rankBy=price+asc)
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Be known guys you can Easley spend way more on these little lathes that you could buy something much better for the money, been there done that. gears extended bed chuck,. quick change. and tooling get ready. this is a addiction as bad as airguns. David
http://www.grizzly.com/metal-lathes?rankBy=price+asc (http://www.grizzly.com/metal-lathes?rankBy=price+asc)
Agreed- I also wish I could have bought a larger lathe and mill from the get-go. But space restrictions limit what I can buy/move myself...
But I'll just work with what I have for now. Like many have said- A LOT of people have made some pretty great things using these little machines.
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Be known guys you can Easley spend way more on these little lathes that you could buy something much better for the money, been there done that. gears extended bed chuck,. quick change. and tooling get ready. this is a addiction as bad as airguns. David
http://www.grizzly.com/metal-lathes?rankBy=price+asc (http://www.grizzly.com/metal-lathes?rankBy=price+asc)
Do you have a specific recommendation, or is the grizzly link just an 'anything from this link would be better than a cheap option from eBay' statement?
Just glancing through the list, it looks like a similar grizzly lathe is about twice as much as the one from ebay.
Thanks,
Cody
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I cant speak for david but i do know the grizzly machine is the exact same machine from the same seig company in china.
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But space restrictions limit what I can buy/move myself...
Exactly
The 7x12 or x14 is around a 100 lbs. From the Grizzly site the popular next size up, the 9x19, is pushing 300 lbs. Even if you ignore the extra (gulp) $1000, that weight difference changes it from just another power tool in the garage to more of a fixture. The same is true for the mini mills.
Unless you buy a used lathe setup bundle from someone, you will be spending money on tooling for any new lathe you buy.
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Used one for years, did what I needed you have to improvise a lot, did spend a lot of dollars on upgrades lol!! enough I could have bought the lathe I now have but for limited space, they work well. David
David,
What lathe are you using now?
Dennis
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http://www.grizzly.com/products/11-x-26-Bench-Lathe-w-Gearbox/G9972Z (http://www.grizzly.com/products/11-x-26-Bench-Lathe-w-Gearbox/G9972Z)
Honestly this is overkill for what i use it for, the biggest draw back on the little lathes is spindle bore, David
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I had a g062 which is a good lathe wish I would have kept it, as I said for working on airguns which is all I do I have more than I need. next will be a milling machine lol!! I just have a little harbor freight mill which serves the purpose well. One thing I will say about the Grizzly bigger lathes they come with a lot of extras, David
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I had a g062 which is a good lathe wish I would have kept it,
Trade you even up for the Grizzle!
;D
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I just wanted a lathe to get my feet wet and see if I would enjoy making mostly airgun related stuff. And to get me off my butt and tinkering again making poppets, barrel crowns, transfer ports etc. ;D
I had inquired about a year ago but got overwhelmed with all the videos I watched plus the prices were in the $600 range then.
Is this lathe rigid enough to take advantage of the steel quick change tool posts versus the aluminum ones? The steel ones are like 4 times more expensive. I was also curious if there is enough stress to where the aluminum tool post would stretch and or deflect?
Thank you!
Taso
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I have Rocker1's old Lathe. So given he worked the heck out of it, and I'm working the heck out of it? I'd say it's a good buy.
I'd stay with the aluminium posts until you see a problem. No reason to toss money at a non-issue when you'll need tooling first.
I'd bet you'd dog the lathe down before you'd mess up the aluminium posts anyway.
Rocker1 did put the steel gears in this one so I can't say if you'd dog down or strip the plastic gears 1st.
And YES! I have dogged this one down a few times!
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The A2Z tool post I have, was US made and cost more at the time and is also aluminum. I have not had any issues.
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I use a height gage to initially set the tool height to centerline...easy to make and saves some frustration, especially if you are shimming the stock tool post. This one happens to have a magnetic base.
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I just wanted a lathe to get my feet wet and see if I would enjoy making mostly airgun related stuff. And to get me off my butt and tinkering again making poppets, barrel crowns, transfer ports etc. ;D
I had inquired about a year ago but got overwhelmed with all the videos I watched plus the prices were in the $600 range then.
Is this lathe rigid enough to take advantage of the steel quick change tool posts versus the aluminum ones? The steel ones are like 4 times more expensive. I was also curious if there is enough stress to where the aluminum tool post would stretch and or deflect?
Thank you!
Taso
People often remove the compound and add a solid steel block to the carriage to mount the tool post. This works for every day operations except when you need a taper. It will be super rigid in this arrangement but you simply lack the HP to need that level of rigidity. It is nice for parting off though where rigidity is huge .
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Huh? ;D
Can you translate that to noob for me? ;)
Thanks! you're the best!
Taso
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What i meant to say is that the rigidity is fine with the aluminum china toolpost 😄
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LOL that's too noob but I appreciate it though! ;D
Taso
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I cant speak for david but i do know the grizzly machine is the exact same machine from the same seig company in china.
Is there a need for cutting threads? The Grizzly will cut threads, but the listed mini lathe won't. Is it worth the ~$200 to get threading ability?
http://www.grizzly.com/products/7-x-12-Mini-Metal-Lathe/G8688 (http://www.grizzly.com/products/7-x-12-Mini-Metal-Lathe/G8688)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/G8688-Grizzly-7-x-12-Mini-Metal-Lathe-/272454782169?hash=item3f6f920cd9 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/G8688-Grizzly-7-x-12-Mini-Metal-Lathe-/272454782169?hash=item3f6f920cd9)
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the lathe for 368 will cut threads and has all the gears included for a variety of threads.
look at the external panel on the left side of the machine, that's the thread and gearing chart for threads
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yes, cutting threads is paramount , but also an acquired skill that becomes a lot of fun when you first get it down pat
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the machine doesn't display the imperial thread settings on the side panel , the good news is the chart for imperial can be printed from Grizzly .com or littlemachineshop .com
LMS is a valuable resourse since they also have a threading calculator on their website designed around this machine.. In other words, if u needed a really weird thread like garden hose threads, LMS will tell you the gear combo to get 11.5 tpi.
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I found this on here:
https://jumboindustrial.com/products/mophorn-metal-lathe-precision-mini-lathe-variable-speed-2500-rpm-550w-mini-metal-lathe-micro-metal-milling-bench-top-lathe-machine-7-x-14-inches?gclid=Cj0KCQjwquTbBRCSARIsADzW88xJzeLxCfYSlidcNATGzqrphYCYA-WS6grTZZplGMl9AShzRdw0nXUaAitWEALw_wcB (https://jumboindustrial.com/products/mophorn-metal-lathe-precision-mini-lathe-variable-speed-2500-rpm-550w-mini-metal-lathe-micro-metal-milling-bench-top-lathe-machine-7-x-14-inches?gclid=Cj0KCQjwquTbBRCSARIsADzW88xJzeLxCfYSlidcNATGzqrphYCYA-WS6grTZZplGMl9AShzRdw0nXUaAitWEALw_wcB)
"This micro lathe has no significant functions, electronic control system for the general control system, to synchronize the gear drive."
Am I reading this wrong? This seems to me, to say that it won't cut multiple passes synchronized.
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its all chinglish / BUT ,.I don't see a threading dial on the carriage , this is weird.. let me look at the ebay pics
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ok in light of this news , here are the compatible parts from grizzly in case the lathe doesn't include the thread dial
065
P8688065
DIAL
California Proposition 65 Warning
$2.50
Add to Cart
066
P8688066
SHAFT 16T
California Proposition 65 Warning
$3.25
Add to Cart
067
P8688067
HEX HD SCR M5 X 16
California Proposition 65 Warning
$1.00
Add to Cart
068
P8688068
DIAL INDICATOR BODY
California Proposition 65 Warning
$8.12
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so it would actually be about 21 dollars from grizzly to get the appropriate dial indicator , as per my research.. the lead screw and mounting pitch for the dial indicator should be the same.. why they took this shortcut , I have no idea.. for metric threads with a imperial leadscrew , you actually don't need the dial but that's irrelevant right now..
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What about an inch indicator w/a Metric leadscrew?
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What about an inch indicator w/a Metric leadscrew?
either way the halfnut needs to be engaged the entire time .. In other words, you stop the machine power.. go in reverse.. and run the thread again without disengaging the halfnut.. anyway , heres the latest review on this machine
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9l8fIqmublM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9l8fIqmublM)
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if you engage the half nuts in the same position (with acme threads it's pretty obvious, if you have the indicator, leave it engaged all the time) that is no worry, I've done down to stupid fine threads like the 4-48 Crosman thread for a Crosman 130 rear site screw once with mine and it did ok, didn't take enough passes and don't have a steady rest so it didn't end up working for the person it was for but it looked real nice :)
That's a pretty good deal, I got my "Speedway Series" lathe off of craigslist 10 years ago for $250 and have used it for all sorts of things, of course I've put more in tooling in it than I paid for it through littlemachineshop.com but that's normal... as for the plastic threading gears and plastic main high/low speed gear in the gearhead they are not an issue. I've broken one of the main gears in 10 years and for $5 I'd rather have it as a fuse than something more serious, it is not a wear item and it took a fair amount to break it... I was trimming a 3/8" bolt clamped in the chuck by just the head, it flipped out and hit the top of the cutting tool...
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My lathe showed up this morning. I haven't had a chance to check it out yet but the crate looks ok. :)
Taso
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My lathe showed up this morning. I haven't had a chance to check it out yet but the crate looks ok. :)
Taso
congrats, we will need PICS !
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You will enjoy the capabilities of making all kinds of things. Do be careful to stay out of the chuck - both personally and crashing the carriage!
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If you get the 16" bed upgrade from Little Machine Shop, the lead screw is Imperial, and they do have a thread dial indicator kit...
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I ordered a mini lathe. I have a place for it picked out in the basement - an old student desk that my daughter didn't want will work just fine for this lathe. I can store the tools in the desk drawers.
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I ordered a mini lathe. I have a place for it picked out in the basement - an old student desk that my daughter didn't want will work just fine for this lathe. I can store the tools in the desk drawers.
awesome. my mini lathe was on a bookshelf a few years ago , was never an issue till I got a heavier machine.
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One of the motor mount bolts stripped the threads in the motor case and the motor was loose. The bolt was only engaged in two threads deep. He fixed it with a pair of exhaust clamps and ingenuity.
Taso
Hey Taso,
My HF 7x12 lathe was a game changer for me when doing any airgun tuning.
A mill is a nice luxury, but a lathe is mandatory ;).
Enjoy,
Kirk
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Thanks Kirk! I've wanted to try one out for a while. The planets were in alignment this time. ;D
I was busy this week but this coming week I need to find a spot for it and make sure it powers up and isn't damaged.
Thanks,
Taso
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My lathe showed up damaged- the emergency shut of cover was broken, and the carriage hand wheel was broken... The carriage hand wheel being broken upset me- I was hoping to make new hand wheels and knobs as my first project... I still can, those were the only two damaged pieces. But I didn't want to spend the money on a new hand wheel! >:( Oh well. I plugged it in, and it works fine. So honestly, I'm not really upset about it.
As an aside- Are any of y'all bolting down your lathes and/or other machines to your bench? I'm debating on whether or not to bolt these machines down to the bench.
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Tom,
Did your wood crate show signs of damage? I better open mine up tomorrow to make sure it is ok. :)
The seller does state free returns in the ebay listing. I made sure of this because I didn't want have to foot the bill for shipping back a damaged lathe.
Thanks,
Taso
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Tom,
Did your wood crate show signs of damage? I better open mine up tomorrow to make sure it is ok. :)
The seller does state free returns in the ebay listing. I made sure of this because I didn't want have to foot the bill for shipping back a damaged lathe.
Thanks,
Taso
No external damage. The seller does have a free return policy, but I didn't feel the damage was worth sending it back- 1) the crate didn't survive ME, 2) the carriage hand wheel was a component that I was already intending to replace anyway, and 3) I'm not a huge fan of the emergency stop button anyway. Take your time and have attention to detail, and you'll never need it. It's like a weapon safety. Plus the on/off button still works just fine. ;D
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As an aside- Are any of y'all bolting down your lathes and/or other machines to your bench? I'm debating on whether or not to bolt these machines down to the bench.
My HF 7x12 came with thick rubber mount feet. I did not bolt it down.....I was too lazy to do the liquid-shim.
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I've never bolted down my 7x12 although it would be nice sometimes since the feet are only like 4" apart... I have mine sitting on an old "teachers desk" or maybe secretary desk since it has the typewriter tray that is spring loaded on the right side... whatever it was $1 and has worked well even though I have at least 200lb of junk on it :). We have the LMS 9x16 I think it is at work and it isn't bolted down either, they don't have enough weight to do anything super fine, it would be nice sometimes but not a huge issue...
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I got mine in pretty good condition. Nothing missing or broken. Just some dents in the tray. I assume all the gears are there, I don't know how to check. I'm still cleaning it up and adjusting it.
I don't have a High or Low speed change knob behind the head like the manual says. Does anyone else have one like mine? that is without a speed change knob?
So far, I am liking it. Yes, it is coarsely finished and looks like it was quickly thrown together, an assembled kit waiting to be finished, but for that money it is great. Wifey even likes it, because it gets me into the basement out of her way.
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Hi All,
Just a small update on my lathe purchase. I have some LW stainless steel barrels that will need to be machined. So I bought:
OXA Wedge Type Tool Post
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OXA-Wedge-Type-Tool-Post-Mini-Lathe-up-to-8/323516180710?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/OXA-Wedge-Type-Tool-Post-Mini-Lathe-up-to-8/323516180710?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)
Machifit 7pcs 10mm Shank Lathe Turning Tool Holder Boring Bar With Carbide Inserts
https://us.banggood.com/Wholesale-Warehouse-7pcs-10mm-Shank-Lathe-Turning-Tool-Holder-Boring-Bar-With-Carbide-Inserts-wp-Usa-1082102.html (https://us.banggood.com/Wholesale-Warehouse-7pcs-10mm-Shank-Lathe-Turning-Tool-Holder-Boring-Bar-With-Carbide-Inserts-wp-Usa-1082102.html)
I will be buying a 1/2" chuck and pilot bits from Harbor Freight.
And I will be buying some 5/8" steel rod to practice on first till I feel confident to proceed to a barrel. Hopefully if I am cautious, measure 5 times and am careful, I won't mess up my first barrel too bad. ;D
Thank you All!
Taso
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That's one heck of a deal, if I hadn't bought my Shoebox recently I'd probably be buying one. Oh well there'll be another sale on them again I'm sure, it wasn't long ago you could get about the same deal.
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I have a small update on my lathe and some answers to questions posed.
The manufacturers name on my label is hard to make out but by trying to match up the name on the internet I'm pretty sure it's "Mingxi Machine"
What I am noticing is that the lathe is pretty sloppily put together. Things either bind or are unacceptable loose. So basically you have to blueprint the lathe.
So I have been watching quite a few new lathe setup videos and this is par for the course. It seems they all need to be cleaned and adjusted. So I don't feel bad plus I like taking thinks apart and seeing how they work. Except for the metal slivers I keep picking up in my fingers lol.
I don't think I'm going to machine any barrels till the lathe is setup correctly. I did install the steel wedge type tool post. The old tool post had 4 crescents cut out in it's base and there was a spring loaded plunger in the compound rest, I think it's called. So the post would only turn on one direction and stop every 90 degrees. Do I need to worry about the new tool post rotating?
Another thing that I noticed is that all the gears are misaligned. Meaning they all don't have 100% engagement with the gear they are turning or being turned by. They're all askew.
I have been watching Youtube videos from "mini machine shop" and in his setup video he did mention the gears were all wrong in his Harbor Freight lathe. I'll have to check out his video on that and see what exactly the issue was.
I'v also attached picture of the lathe and the rear spider support I bought off ebay. I nee to remove at least on of the jam nuts on the rear of the spindle.
I also did a quick runout check of the chuck and I have some. I'm not sure what's acceptable but I still have to check the spindle holding the chuck is ok first and then work my way from there.
Are the adjustable 4 jaw chucks necessary or can the three jaw chucked be corrected for less runout? How much runout is acceptable? Zero runout would be nice because I am kind of a perfectionist, but I don't know if it's possible in a $368 lathe or if it's even necessary for the barrel prepping, poppets and transfer ports we are making.
Thanks Everyone!
Taso
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I'm no machinist (YET), but if you're going to stick to mostly round stock, I'd get a 4" 3 jaw to start.
Reason being, the 4" 3 jaw are easier to use. The 4 jaws are more for machining on square stock. At least, that's what my research has shown. A 4 jaw can of course handle round and square stock, they just take longer to set up. For ease of use though, I'd stick to a 3 jaw. Another reason to upgrade to a 4" chuck: I've read that the 3" chuck's bore is actually smaller than what the machine's spindle bore is... I.e most mini lathes can handle a .75" OD material because of the spindle bore, and the 3" chuck is quite a bit less than that. A 4" chuck will get you back to around .75".
You bought the same lathe as I did! You got a better deal though. ;D
I just paid for a complete set (17 gears) of metal gears from Aliexpress- search for "mini lathe gears" if you want to look at them. They look to be the same as those available from little machine shop, but at slightly less than a third of the price... I'll let you know how they are when I get them. I also bought a gear reduction kit from ebay- I'll post about it when I start working on the lathe again- we can compare notes...
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Taso,
I did a quick check, my HF 7x12 has a runout of about 0.002". Some comments on runout on the mini- lathe site. Maybe removing the chuck and cleaning will help. http://www.mini-lathe.com/mini_lathe/reviews/Homier_7x12/homier_7x12_p3.htm (http://www.mini-lathe.com/mini_lathe/reviews/Homier_7x12/homier_7x12_p3.htm)
If you start taking things apart, I just found this step by step http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/machineguides/C3-Mini-Lathe-Dismantling-and-Reassembly-Guide.pdf (http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/machineguides/C3-Mini-Lathe-Dismantling-and-Reassembly-Guide.pdf)
My aftermarket toolpost does not have anything indexing rotation to the mount. Tightening the attach bolt is sufficient. I often use this to adjust the tool angle.
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Don't over think and over buy parts before you play with it... The metal gears are overkill, I've only replaced one gear from breaking on mine in 12 years and that was the main drive gear on the spindle (inside, was a process to change...) and to break that took me trying to machine a bolt by holding it solely by the hex head, no tail stock support and it flopped over onto the top of the cutting tool... that gear was $5 at littlemachineshop.com so I bought two... they make a metal version but honestly a "fuse" isn't a bad thing...
I never use the detents on my stock 4 way tool holder, haven't changed to a quick change, we have one at work and I'm not 100% sold on it's usefulness on a small lathe, there's not that much room... like I said, I don't use the detents, use my own cutting angle for whatever weird project I'm doing and haven't ran into an issue.
On the threading gears, the centers aren't perfect but I don't think it matters too much, but of course almost everything depends on exactly what you are trying to do, if you are trying to thread a tube for a PCP or CO2 gun you are going to have to pay much more attention than normal... I've done some odd threading jobs on my lathe like making a new "nut" for the propane tank for my BBQ as the plastic one broke, that's left hand 7/8" threads (don't remember the pitch), made a turn buckle for my RC car that had 6mm threads so I cut a bolt shorter and cut left hand threads on one end, and even attempted to make a rear site screw for a Crosman 130 which if memory serves was 4-48 threads or something crazy (that didn't work, too much deflection at the tip, should have kept going or rigged a support).
The bore through the spindle on the 7X lathes is 5/8", I think the stock chuck is a little smaller but not much, I might have bored mine out...
Once I get my shop built I wanna get the mini mill to accompany my lathe...
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the bore on the stock chuck is the choke point.. I think the spindle bore is 20mm , but the chuck is barely 5/8 th pass through.. LMS has a drop in 5 inch chuck for about 140.. game changer really.
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looking good taso , now you need a QCTp
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Runout.. CONTRARY to popular believe , many a 3 jaw has run with sub .001 runout.. when budget minded ,One method to achieve this is to grind the jaws.. the method varies but the results are generally excellent.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yWsjeY6nJU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yWsjeY6nJU)
not my favorite method but a good video
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Interesting video. Thanks Rob.
The point he makes at the very end about the precision of the scroll, makes me wonder what you can achieve across the capacity of these low cost chucks.
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well s
Interesting video. Thanks Rob.
The point he makes at the very end about the precision of the scroll, makes me wonder what you can achieve across the capacity of these low cost chucks.
well suburban tool has a matter method.. when i did my shars 6 inch chuck , i got to .001 runout no matter how many times i reloaded the chuck.this was coming from days of fighting withn .008 runout which is too high to even do basic work.. the way he does it is to grind a recess in the back of the jaws.. then put a precision ground rod in the recess , close to the diameter of the work you generally hold..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h1lIHmWY-04&t=205s (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h1lIHmWY-04&t=205s)
finally found the video , so you can decide which way is best..
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I also made a super cheap grinder.. took an old drill press motor, and machined a shaft extension.. then loaded my grinding wheels into my custom adapter.. then mounted that to the carriage.. super simple.. deadly accurate
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Rob,
Do you have a picture of your grinder? Did you add any support bearings on the extension?
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In a pinch I've just chucked up the handle of the flexible wand extension thing for my Dremel into the tool holder, the center is pretty close to the center of the chuck, I think I was surfacing the valves for my 3 wheeler...
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Rob,
Do you have a picture of your grinder? Did you add any support bearings on the extension?
ILL TAKE A PIC tonight .. no support bearings , the logic being there is barely any side load on the grinding wheel.. its just barely touching the jaws so whatever deflection there is will be equal on all 3 jaws ..seemed to work
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its pretty basic and worked perfect.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4811/45545295104_66ec09c0f1_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2coFxsG)grinder (https://flic.kr/p/2coFxsG) by murphyrobert9 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/56743574@N07/), on Flickr
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Looks great. For my 7X12 I've been thinking along Scott's Dremel flex wand approach but maybe I can find an intermediate size motor that would fit.
Thanks
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Looks great. For my 7X12 I've been thinking along Scott's Dremel flex wand approach but maybe I can find an intermediate size motor that would fit.
Thanks
the dremel is likley the best idea for a small bore chuck.. since you really want the holding position of the jaws in a similar diameter to what you generally hold..
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Hey Tom! (Yemx)
My lathe came with the 4" chuck.
Hey Rob!
I bought the steel, wedge type tool post from Ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OXA-Wedge-Type-Tool-Post-Mini-Lathe-up-to-8/323516180710?hash=item4b531128e6:g:574AAOSwcWJb0QFv:rk:1:pf:0 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/OXA-Wedge-Type-Tool-Post-Mini-Lathe-up-to-8/323516180710?hash=item4b531128e6:g:574AAOSwcWJb0QFv:rk:1:pf:0)
As far as I can tell it seems ok.
All,
I checked runout of the chuck body and mounting plate via the headstock and the results were much better than off the compound rest. I don't think I have anything perfectly concentric to check the jaws with...yet. What can I buy for this?
I took the carriage and compound rest all apart as every adjustment had binding at one point. I found one bent gib and my bed binds close to the headstock and at the opposite end with the table carriage. I hit underneath the front rail with a file and there doesn't seem much improvement. The topside looks fine but I will have to check with a straight edge. I may leave these two areas alone as I don't think I will be using the table at those extremes. I also found that if you snug the far end of the table carriage it pulls the table carriage out of parallel with the bed. There's no limit adjustment between the table carriage and the bed to stop that. At least on my machine. Maybe I'll have to secure a piece of brass underneath the table carriage or maybe some brass tipped screws to stop the table carriage from rotating backward.
I plan on hitting all the mating areas with 500 or 600 grit sandpaper. Can I use moly grease or an oil with ptfe (teflon) in it or a dry lube afterwards? All the videos I have seen state to use oil. I figure the lubricants I am considering will have better lubricity between the mating surfaces since they are metal to metal contact? I think the dry lube would help with swarf sticking to the lubricated surfaces too.
Just out of curiosity, does my lathe model have more or the same issues as other mini lathe models?
Thank you All!
Taso
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For checking the jaws, If you bought some of the center drill bits from HF, I would chuck up the largest one, with as much in the jaw as possible and measure that.
I would avoid file or aggressive sanding of the ways and just work the carriage back and forth for a while. There are descriptions out there for making replacement gibs out of brass, but I have not done that.
One thing that I have not done yet but is on the short list is to seal the back of the carriage gear compartment. Swarf gets in there and moving the carriage becomes crunchy. If you have it apart, cleaning and sealing that may be a good idea.
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TASO , that qctp is awesome, i have the same model on my g4000 just a size up.. they go by different names mine is bostar. ..You can check runout with anything precision ground.. electric motor shaft, a good end mill ,it just needs to be a perfectly concentric part , so nothing like aluminum rod or delrin rod .,, Things that require a precise fit
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The shaft from an old dot matrix printer or one from an old gas strut are great canidates for a quick alignment tool.
OXA is perfect for your machine, I almost wish I had one on my 9x20 instead of an AXA.
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Hey Tom! (Yemx)
My lathe came with the 4" chuck.
Lucky!!!
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So I got myself the QCTP Taso posted and it looks great but i have a question about the position pin. How do I remove it so it won't be in the way of the new QCTP.
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On my lathe the only thing holding the pin in is gravity and grease. I picked it out easily and there is a small spring under it so get that out too so it doesn't work it's way out and get lodged somewhere and cause mystery issues.
Thanks,
Taso
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On my lathe the only thing holding the pin in is gravity and grease. I picked it out easily and there is a small spring under it so get that out too so it doesn't work it's way out and get lodged somewhere and cause mystery issues.
Thanks,
Taso
I will try that tonight. Thanks Taso.
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If it doesn't get in the way of the new tool post, wont hurt a dang thing to live there either...
At work we have the 9X whatever LMS lathe and got the QC tool post, we took off the stock one and instead of using the hex nut that it came with used the stock lever nut, put a washer under it so it didn't point right in the way of looking at what you are doing, is super easy to fine tune the makeshift angle of whatever we are doing... BTW, if you have $1600 to throw at a benchtop lathe, that thing is pretty cool! There are things I'm better at with my 7x12 but it has a tachometer and overload protection so you don't break gears...
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So I did more smoothing of mating surfaces of the compound rest rails and gibs. At first I hit the mating surfaces slightly with a fine file and then 400 grit sandpaper against a flat piece of glass or backed with the file.
I then remembered I has some fine a coarse valve lapping compound. I tried the fine compound first and liked the results so didn't bother with the coarse.
I cleaned off all the grit and sprayed Remington DriLube on the mating surfaces. It was slick but didn't feel smooth. So I wiped it off and tried Locktite moly paste . I liked how this felt much better. It made everything feel smooth and solid.
I am going to go and hit all the mating surfaces with 400 grit sandpaper as it was a much finer finish than the lapping compound. Then I will hit the mating surfaces again with 600 grit.
I will clean the surfaces real good again with WD-40 and apply moly paste and reassemble.
I got some steel rod from Menards and I'm itching to make some chips.
My machined shaft also arrived and I chucked it up. If I'm reading my gauge right, I have about .00075 runout.
The gauge face says the increments on the dial are .0005". The runout I get at about 1/8" outside of the jaws is one and a half increments.
But at about 8" outside of the jaws I get about 6 increments of runout. I will not be machining that far out and I think I can minimize the runout with the copper ring and the spider one the spindle output opposite the chuck as in this video:
https://youtu.be/UI2f9d6R9EM (https://youtu.be/UI2f9d6R9EM)
Thanks,
Taso