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All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => PCP/CO2/HPA Air Gun Gates "The Darkside" => Topic started by: Bigragu on July 18, 2018, 08:12:36 PM
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Anyone here use nylon bristled brushes on the inside of their cherished PCP barrels? Currently I use the weed eater line with a loop, pulling cotton patches through like most on here, but I’m always on the lookout for a better and safer way to thoroughly clean these barrels.
Looked at that patchworm kit, but could not see that it had buttons for a 25 cal or a .303 in their kits.
That led my thinking to using the old fashioned rod with a nylon bristle brush on the end for a good scrub, then the weed eater line method to wipe out the scrubbed grit.
Anyway, let me know your thoughts on this, and maybe share on your proven methods.
Thank you
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I have used a Nylon brush on my pcp's before and it worked great. Obviously it involves removing the barrel and also the barrel o ring (if your gun has one). A benefit of removing the barrel also is that you can use a more aggressive solvent (I used good old Hoppes #9) without getting any in your transfer port/valve if you want to get a real good clean.
Also have a patchworm kit and they do come with a .25 and .30 button.
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I use a Brass brush on my 3 LW barrels with No Problem at all. Many others do exactly the same. Push them thru! Just don't pull them back thru, Unscrew brush, Pull rod out, Screw brush back on and repeat. No Harm Done. Dirty pellets from your hands will do far more damage then any brass brush will ever do, Remember any pellet lube on your fingers! Will grab dirt and abrasives that will be shot thru your barrel when ya load. If you owned and used a Hawkeye Borescope you would &^^& your pants with what you would see!! Trust Me!!!! I have one from my rim and center fire Benchrest days ;) And if you use a choked barrel You Will Get Lead Build-Up like it or not, And no lube will prevent it! And a nylon brush is a Joke to try and remove it, You may think it;s gone! Until you Bore Scope it :o
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Interesting information, Jay.
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Seldom brush with nylon ... but use Brass when a brushing is needed. * On Match grade barrels too ;)
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Again, good information to have.
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I've always been worried of damaging my barrels with a brass brush. Is it okay to clean the barrels with them? For instance, I have a LW barrel on an Air Force and I have a Hatsan I would really like to clean the $@&! out of, but would hate to damage...
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I've always been worried of damaging my barrels with a brass brush. Is it okay to clean the barrels with them? For instance, I have a LW barrel on an Air Force and I have a Hatsan I would really like to clean the $@&! out of, but would hate to damage...
Endless debate with both sides feeling strongly .... So. my take is that actual shooting Brass brushed barrels accuracy results speak volumes for the practice of doing so.
* granted only brushing every few tins worth or so ( give or take 1000 shots ), but also pulling a SNUG bore snake W/O brushes every 100 or so shots.
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I've never seen any ill effects from using a brass brush on a bore. I work with all different types of materials every day, and still haven't found any brass that'll scratch steel...
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That’s what I figured as much, MH and Travis. But with all the paranoia floating around, one starts to doubt themselves.
Heck, whenever we(in my trade) worked with stainless steel panels, that had mirror finish and protected with plastic wrap, the best way to cut that wrap off, was to take a piece of 1/2” or 3/4” copper pipe from the plumbers, hammer one end of the pipe flat, cut that flattened edge at a slant to make a makeshift knife blade, and run that onto the stainless to cut that wrap. Never scratched the stainless.
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As long as you can clean form the breach. Shouldn't be a problem.
Don't pull brushes back through!
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Seldom brush with nylon ... but use Brass when a brushing is needed. * On Match grade barrels too ;)
Second that emotion. Copper is not going to do any damage to steel and airgun barrels are not the softies that people think they are.
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We all call them brass brushes. however, most are bronze. Much harder than brass. Still, the brushes are much softer than any bbl. steel. AG or otherwise. ;)
Knife
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When I want to do aggressive cleaning on my AG barrels, nylon is my pick. BTW, there is a solvent marketed to the PB community that I am quite partial to for AG use. It is MPro7 Gun Cleaner. I do not know what it is made from, but it is does not contain any flammables, VOCs, etc., and it is safe for the o-rings and other more delicate stuff that it might contact. I have used it over three years on my AGs with really fine results.
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Does anyone here use FP10 for cleaning their barrel as at all? I know most favor Ballistol and such. I also use a few droplets of FP10 into my pellet tins for my Marauder pellets.
I know in my Hercules manual it clearly specifies no lube type anything to be left or used in the barrel. They say clean the barrel after so many pellets, run a swab thru it, but it doesn’t recommend a solution type.
I went ahead and used a powder burner bore cleaner first, the one that foams up. Man, that sure poured out black when I tipped the barrel down to allow that stuff to drip out. Then, after many wipes, ran some FP10. Then because of Hatsans no lube whatsoever, ran a bore mop soaked in alcohol to remove any lube.
Did not apply any brush work, as I did not get replies back with recommendations at the time I decided to start the barrel cleaning. Well, now I know brass and or nylon brushes are good to go.
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Please clue me in on why you do not pull brass (bronze) brushes back through.
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Yeah, me, too. I used to know, but forgot.
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I have used FP-10 for years. Works very well!
Pulling back thru is tantamount to cleaning form the muzzle.
We don't usually clean form the muzzle. Prevents wear at the crown.
I do, but made a crown saver for it. ;)
Knife
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Pulling a brush back through the bore makes the 'sides' of the bristles rub across the corners of the crown, as the brush is squeezed down to bore size.
The sides of the bristles can carry grit or dust or whatever. While the bristles may be softer than steel, the dirt or grit may not be. And that grit can round the corners of the oh so carefully square cut crown.
This can happen with a 'leadless' breach too when inserting the brush, but better to wear this end, than the muzzle.
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I don’t hesistate to pull a brush back thru, change directions in the barrel, or clean from the muzzle side. In fact on a choked barrel I prefer cleaning from the muzzle side. I’ll scrub a dirty muzzle like a plumber squeegeeing a dirty pipe. And when its really bad I’ll wrap the brush in extra copper strands and spin it thru a drill chuck.
I’ve become convinced that most of the conventional wisdom out there on the internet about barrel cleaning is superstition.
What I will do is clean the brush every so many passes to get grit off it. I use soapy water and sometimes brake cleaner, followed by a cleaning lube or wd40 before going back into the barrel. I also keep the cleaning rods clean.
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Brake cleaner is very handy stuff. I keep several cans of it in the shop. Use it to clean bullet molds before casting. One of life's better inventions!
"L"on wasp and scorpions as well. LOL ;)
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Not all cleaning rods ar created equal. Man carry embedded grit. This is the biggest issue with cleaning form the muzzle. The biggest offenders are the typical multi sectioned cleaning rods that most have, that come in the common cleaning kits. Stay away for them, as the grit on/ in the rods act as a hone that destroys the fine finish of a crowns interior quickly.
I have recrowned many a hunting rifle for people over the years that were damaged is exactly this manner.
Knife
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That’s how bronze and nylon brushes can damage steel. It’s not the brush but embedded particles of steel from the bore or carbon from a powder burner. Both WILL damage steel if repeated enough. Scotchbrite is nylon with aluminum oxide embedded and it sure will remove steel.