GTA
Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2 and springers ,rams => Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2 => Topic started by: Harpoon1 on July 16, 2018, 09:36:46 AM
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With less than an hour of total running time since being purchased, my Vevor now refuses to start.
Was attempting to refill a tank again yesterday, and going to start it up again after a cooldown period, hit the switch and nothing! No click, no nothing. Other than the light in the switch was still working. Checked the breaker it hadn't tripped. Tried another outlet, nothing. Completely dead. Bummer!
Popped the back cover and everything looks fine. All the connections looked good, snug. Nothing that was obviously burnt or black. No unusual "electrical" smell. Hmmmm
I guess the simplest thing would be, the switch is bad. Put a multi-meter on the switch and only get continuity across one side, other side, nothing? And not sure how the little light in switch comes into play when trying to check it either? Clearly, Im no electrician.......so if anyone has any advice on how to test the switch and/or troubleshoot the circuit with a multimeter..........I'm all ears. Otherwise, I'll probably just order a new switch, they cant be that much?
Anyone have a source for the switch?
Thanks.
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This thread may resolve your issue
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=137176.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=137176.0)
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This thread may resolve your issue
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=137176.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=137176.0)
Dinh
Mine doesnt have the "relay" that his does. I think he has the "automatic shutoff" model, mine is just the basic, no frills unit. I have just an on/off switch, no "relay/controller", if thats the right terms?
Thanks for the heads up though.
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Did you try giving the motor/fan a couple spins by hand? I know you said it didn't even make a click or humming noise (like it is trying to start) but worth a shot? Electricity is the one thing I don't like messing with, sorry I can't be more help.
Can you bypass the switch just to make sure it's the culprit?
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Did you try giving the motor/fan a couple spins by hand? I know you said it didn't even make a click or humming noise (like it is trying to start) but worth a shot? Electricity is the one thing I don't like messing with, sorry I can't be more help.
Can you bypass the switch just to make sure it's the culprit?
Justin
Yep, spun the fan blade/motor a couple of times to check for any hudraulic lock. All good, spun freely. Just normal piston, cyclical, resistance.
Good idea about bypassing the switch. I"ll try that today and see what happens.
It's a pity. With the extra ice I was using , I was able to get the temperature stabilize right at 64.8C . I stopped it right before this just because it was the longest run I had gotten out of it sp far, 10 minutes. Was running great! ;D
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That stinks man. Hopefully it just needs an inexpensive switch and you're up and running!
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If you bypass the switch and don't have any luck, try bypassing the circuit breaker (only for debugging purposes). It's the black rectangle box on the side with the round button. On the chance that it's the thermal circuit breaker, you can source a higher quality and same spec'd NTE branded circuit breaker from Amazon.
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Sorry if I'm repeating what has already been said. But I believe this needs 20 amps. I can get my Yong Heng going on 15amp circuit but it has to be alone .. No circulator pump running. Once it starts, I plug in the pump.
I have used my compressor for about a year now, no problems other that that.
Hope this helps,
Mitch
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I think that's good advise going forward, it even intrigues me enough to put a Kill-a-watt on the compressor and measure the draw later this week. But if his compressor isn't starting up at all now, I don't think the problem is with the power source, but with a electric component instead. The nice thing about the Vevor is that the electronics are really simple. You have the electric motor, starting capacitor, switch, and thermal circuit breaker. The temperature display is on its independent circuit. If the motor hasn't completely died, the other parts are not horrible to replace.
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Good news!
Bypassed the switch and it "lit" right off. And........now the switch is working again. I checked it yesterday, several times and again this morning several more times, and was only getting continuity on one side. Kept working it back and forth, on and off and after doing the bypass check with the compressor, figured I tried it one more time ......and low and behold, it started working again.
I'll get a new switch anyway, this one is intermittent at best and on the way out, and cheap enough to replace. And, if it does &^^& out, now I know how to just bypass altogether and turn it on and off by plugging it in. 8)
Thanks for all excellent help and suggestions
And the Vevor saga continues............ 8)
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Good to hear, another Vevor back to life! Viva La Vevor AY AY AY!!!
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Hey Harpoon, would any old switch work? I'm not that familiar with switches and how electronics work but just wondering if one of those hardware store toggle switches would work just fine? I mean all it is doing is letting power move through to the motor right? Of course you would lose the red light but I think you can hear if your compressor is running or not haha.
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Hey Harpoon, would any old switch work? I'm not that familiar with switches and how electronics work but just wondering if one of those hardware store toggle switches would work just fine? I mean all it is doing is letting power move through to the motor right? Of course you would lose the red light but I think you can hear if your compressor is running or not haha.
Yep, I beleive it would. Its just simple on/of switch, so it should, at least with these units. Just be a matter of where to put it.
Again, with a couple of "jumpers" you could just bypass switch permanently and just use the plug. One less thing to fail! 8)
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IT LIVES!!!!!!!! bwahahaha
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Technically the switch is a double pole single throw switch. You're closing 2 circuits with 1 switch. You can get away with using a single pole single throw switch (think basic light switch for the home) if you paired the 2 circuits together. Most important is that the switch should be rated for 125VAC and a minimum of 15A, 20A preferred.
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LOL... almost sounds like an "oh, you mean this little black reset button?" moment... just kidding, glad you got it going.
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you think. a double pole breaker switch housed in a box would work?
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Be a perfect time to also include a switch for the water pump.
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LOL... almost sounds like an "oh, you mean this little black reset button?" moment... just kidding, glad you got it going.
Ha! That was the first thing I checked! Wish it would have been that simple.
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Well that didnt last long! ::)
Went back out there to try it again and it started fine, no problems. Temp was stable in mid 50's when it peaked out, so I just let run. After 20 minutes I cut it off, well, just because. Out of couriosity, tried to start it right back up and the switch was now stuck in the off position. And I mean stuck, had to really use a lot of force to break it free. And when I did, I got nothing. No click, no nothing, nada. Dead! Deader than a Doornail! Game over! :o
So I just yanked it, screw it, had enough. Hard wired the jumpers in its place and went to using the plug to turn it on/off. Works fine now! Like I said eariler, now its just has one less thing to fail!
Unless someone can come up with a good safety reason why I should install a new switch, I plan to just leave it the way it is. Doesn't really matter, at this rate, its not going to be around much longer anyway! 8)
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Why not put a pull chain switch at the end of your power cord, just pull the chain to turn power on and off. Or get an air switch for a garbage disposal from Home Depot.
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The main reason for a switch would be convenience. Get one rated for at least double the amps that the machine draws at startup. I would think a 40 or 50 amp switch should work fine. The OEM switch is probably junk to negin with and operating past its maximum rating.
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I would just get a $3 power strip which will have an convenient on/off swith. Plus, it can also operate your water pump at the same time, so you'll never have to remember to turn it on/off
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Genius! Sometimes the obvious escapes me. With increasing regularity...
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Genius! Sometimes the obvious escapes me. With increasing regularity...
I waive my high consultation fee, to all GTA members ;D
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...just don't ask him how to use an air fryer... :o
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$3 power strips generally don't like 15-20A being drawn through them for extended periods of time...
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...just don't ask him how to use an air fryer... :o
That's true! My temps tends to run over 300F :o
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$3 power strips generally don't like 15-20A being drawn through them for extended periods of time...
Ok, get a $5 one then.
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The main reason for a switch would be convenience. Get one rated for at least double the amps that the machine draws at startup. I would think a 40 or 50 amp switch should work fine. The OEM switch is probably junk to negin with and operating past its maximum rating.
Ditto on the rating for the power switch!!! I think that I've heard that these compressors run about 1800 Watts. That's right on 15 Amps, and I'm sure that the starting current is much higher. I have a table saw wired with a 20 Amp, double pole switch (20+20), that seems to work fine. Any power strip or normal wall type switch will cook in no time.
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Power draw is why I recommended the air switch for garbage disposal.
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Any power strip or normal wall type switch will cook in no time.
Well, my $3 power strip has got about 1.5hr on it this far. A couple of times, it tripped the strip's breaker on the initial cold start, but once it gets going and warms up, it no longer trips. Guess I'll have to see how long this power strip will last.
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2m34bxz.jpg)
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Just keep an eye on it, but I'm sure you will. As a side note, is that an Acecare tank and fill valve in your Homer bucket? How do you like it? Have thought about one of these but wasn't sure about their fill mechanism, is it easy to use?
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is that an Acecare tank and fill valve in your Homer bucket? How do you like it? Have thought about one of these but wasn't sure about their fill mechanism, is it easy to use?
Yes it is. I like it, and it is extremely solid. There was a recent thread about these CF air tanks. While they are not DOT certified, they are CE(European equivalent), and the CE criteria are supposedly more stringent than the DOT's. The fill mechanism looks complex is actually very basic. One red knob open/close access to the tank, while the other red knob actually does nothing except house the gauge to indicate the air volume in the tank. Then there's a bleed valve, and that's about it. To fill, you just plug the compressor into the male foster nipple, open the tanks valve and turn on the compressor. Super easy to use.
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2zrg7ya.jpg)