GTA
Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2 and springers ,rams => Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2 => Topic started by: Harpoon1 on July 10, 2018, 07:48:56 PM
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Back at it again today, this time with a some ice. A frozen gallon jug to be more specific.
Trying to top off a 88cf tank from 1700 back to 3000+ and higher, or whatever I had time for!
Found another leak in the high pressure connection going into the factory water seperator. Got that sorted then had a pretty uneventful series of running the compressor until it reached the 65C (recommended?) limit, then letting it cool off again, back down to somehwere in the mid 20's celsius. Rinse and repeat.
The problem was from the mid 20's-lower 30's back up to 65c only took around 2-3 minutes! THREE!
There was a run more towards the middle where all the air had most likely been purged, and I let it sit for a half hour while I ran out for lunch and it was cold soaked and the only time I started under 20c and I got somehwere close to a 4 minute run before busting the limit. Still way to quick, I think!
Anyway, Local temps where normal, mid 80's, with Lower than normal humidity for the area and time of year. 5 gallon bucket, 2/3 full with a gallon block of ice and the factory water pump set to "high".
So what gives? Is 65C to conservative? 150F doesnt sound like a lot to me, and too low. I mean, my latte milk is hotter than that! 8)
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Just be thankful that your Vevor's 2nd stage seal is still working! LOL...seriously though, you will need to replace it when the compressor does not build up any pressure. Mine came with 2 spares, used them up already...waiting on replacements now... ::)
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Yep, Im hip Jimmy!
Think Travis is going to pull a rabbit out of his hat for us. 8)
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Latte milk should be around 150-155 degrees F. Any hotter than that you are making candy. 8)
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Latte milk should be around 150-155 degrees F. Any hotter than that you are making candy. 8)
Yep, and 155 is hotter than 150! ;D
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I purchased a genuine Yong Heng and having the same exact issues. Seller stated that after speaking with a "factory representative" that it is safe to go as high as 80*C. Well my compressor did that in about 5 minutes with no load (just trying to break it in) and even in less time when trying to fill my 48 cubic inch paintball tank. Same cooling setup (5 gallon bucket, cold water, a frozen gallon jug of ice, water pump set to wide open) with an outside temp of roughly 85*. Trying to figure out what is wrong.
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it could be the exhaust hose very near the water pump,,
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My YH used to heat up pretty quick, then I found the adjuster on the pump and it stays below 65° for quite a while. Many minutes...
Maybe you need a new pump. Or maybe the big lump of ice isn't absorbing heat fast enough.
I've got five of these in my bucket. Lots of surface area for better circulation...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZ72XA8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZ72XA8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&th=1)
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I have a new Yong Heng compressor as well, did some initial break-in time on it running it with no load shutting it down when it hit 60C , it would get there pretty quickly but I haven't been concerned as yet, just giving it time to break in slowly. I have filled my two rifles with it so far, but it only took about 30 seconds to go from 2000 to 3000 on my Marauder, and less than that for my Disco from 1000 to 2000. I haven't tried filling my bottle yet, I want to order the second stage dryer before attempting that and am waiting on some money. ( Fridays paycheck with some cashed out vacation time) Am going to get the gold filter and some molecular sieve as well as a check valve for the inlet side of the filter so I don't have to worry about blowing a burst disc when I go to fill my tank due to the increased back pressure when I open the tank's valve. Have been price shopping both pieces needed but hope to get both from the same place without multiple orders if I can. My oil is still clean (first fill) so I know things are going well and slowly during the break-in process. I am using Husky straight synthetic compressor oil from Home Depot in it and will continue to unless I find a reason to switch. The price is reasonable and it's available in 16oz bottles in my store. It has a 600* F flash point which seemed pretty good to me.
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try improvising a mini cooling tower lol,, this is mine and i know its crude,, but temps stabilize at around 49-51*C
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I have the water pump at full flow and there is no noticeable change in the water temp in the bucket, I'm convinced at least on mine it is just a matter of getting fully broken-in.
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yup,, its a matter ir breaking in the pump, do short fill times at first,, and be sure that the exhaust hose dont get near the water pump,,doing so the water pump cycles the bit warmer water fresh from the cylinder and back to the cylinder
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and just how accurate is the little temp guage. Very possible that it is wrong. I have the YH 110v Hardback and filled my 88cf tank last nite from 3000 to 4200. Temp got to 65c which is as high as I ever let it get. It was hot and humid in the garage so I'm sure that didn't help plus I forgot to put ice in until I saw it hit 62c . Most times it never gets over 60c if I start off with cold water.
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I put the end of my return tube above the surface of the water. Does your return water get hot or just warm ? on my last fill, at about bbc lcd reading, water was just warm.
Will get my non contact thermometer and see what the actual water temp is when the compressor lcd reading is say 50, 55 and 60c. Will report back next weekk
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I'm not sure where the temp sensor is on the vevor but it's probably reading cylinder temp and not the water temp.
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it could be the exhaust hose very near the water pump,,
My water return line is at the very top of the bucket. Going to try an extra gallon of ice to see if that helps. If not, might just return it to the seller before my 30 day window closes. Thanks for the suggestion though.
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how should we run our water lines ? Does the hose from the water pump enter the low or high pressure cylunder head ?
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I use a plastic tool box holding only about 2 gallons as cooling reservoir with both a Tuxing and a Yong Heng. I fill it with loose ice then pour in water to full. Return is at one end of box above the water surface with pump at the opposite end. When the ice melts down, scoop out some water and refill with ice. This has maintained good cooling on both brands of compressors I have used. Common thought seems to be coolant in at bottom and out at top to remove most air.
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how should we run our water lines ? Does the hose from the water pump enter the low or high pressure cylunder head ?
If you connect water inlet to the lower connection, you'll get the added benefit of thermosiphon. Your sensor should also indicate a little lower temperature as it is closer to the lower connection.
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I use a plastic tool box holding only about 2 gallons as cooling reservoir with both a Tuxing and a Yong Heng. I fill it with loose ice then pour in water to full. Return is at one end of box above the water surface with pump at the opposite end. When the ice melts down, scoop out some water and refill with ice. This has maintained good cooling on both brands of compressors I have used. Common thought seems to be coolant in at bottom and out at top to remove most air.
Is that a 110 to 220v transformer on the left?
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I was thinking of using two 5 gal buckets. one for output, and one iced water, as no heated water would mix with the cold.
Would have to replace water in cold bucket, but not hard to do.
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I was thinking of using two 5 gal buckets. one for output, and one iced water, as no heated water would mix with the cold.
Would have to replace water in cold bucket, but not hard to do.
I know that would be the most efficient method of cooling the head (dumping hot water output into a separate bucket or down the drain), but I'm curious how much water you'd go through in a run. I couldn't trust the GPH/LPH rating on these little water pumps though, so if you end up doing that Knife, then please let us know how much water you end up going through!
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Yes, that is a transformer to power the 220v Tuxing off 110v outlet-older photo. I could only locate the 220v compressor when I bought the first one. It worked fine for quite a while but I wouldn't recommend that approach now as I believe the voltage output was fluctuating on that transformer and the 110v compressors are readily available now. I have a Yong Heng 110v now and still use the loose ice in the tool box for the cooling and it works nicely. I plan to wire an outlet for 220 in my shop and leave the Tuxing there as backup.
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The two buckets are just a thought. AsI use the Altaros booster in the shop. ;) 8)
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I was thinking of using two 5 gal buckets. one for output, and one iced water, as no heated water would mix with the cold.
Would have to replace water in cold bucket, but not hard to do.
Knife
I'm glad I thought of that idea! 8)
Im kidding of course! Great idea Knife, best one I've heard yet, I'm gonna try it! If nothing else, it should prolong my ice supply!
Thanks!
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Little follow up........update!
I ended up just trying more ice in the same 5 gal bucket, that and the machine being a little more broken in seems to have worked. Not having anymore problems getting the temperture to stabilize below 65C.
Basically just added 4 or 5 more ice packs or 16oz frozen gatorade bootles to the bucket, along with the orignal frozen gallon jug. Seems to be working, enough to get me over the hump. Besides an issue Ive been having with the main switch, keeping the temperature below 65c has not been an problem since adding more ice.
Cool! ;D