GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => PCP/CO2/HPA Air Gun Gates "The Darkside" => Topic started by: Fred J on June 26, 2018, 09:18:00 AM
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Does lubing pellets increase accuracy and extend cleaning interval in your PCP? I have found that lubing pellets with Pledge for my springers (TX200 and D34) actually reduced accuracy.
I have a Marauder .177 that I have tuned to shoot JSB 10.3gr pellets at 891 fps. It was tuned to shoot at 835 fps, but the accuracy was less than stellar. When I tuned it to shoot 891 fps yesterday, I found that the accuracy really improved, which really surprised me.
I originally lube pellets for my MRod to extend the cleaning interval. It really did nothing for the accuracy. I have used FP10 and Gamo oil to lightly lube my pellets in the past. I still have to clean the barrel every 150 shots.
So I am tempted to try shooting my re-tuned MRod without lube for a while to see how long the barrel cleaning interval is.
By the way: I am sizing my pellets with PelletGage. My rifle seems to like 4.51mm and 4.52mm the best.
Thank you for your help!
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I use fp-10 on my jsb pellets for my .22 mmhf barrel. It went from definitely needing a cleaning every 50 shots to maybe needs a cleaning every 200 shots.
I end up shooting the same pellets in my mutant. i had about 500 down the tube and pulled a patch through...barely a smudge on the second patch.
For me at least, fp-10 greatly extends my shooting between cleanings.
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Same here, FP-10 has worked well for me. I don't have any quantifiable records, but I seldom clean barrels. I have just tried Hornady One Shot lube, because I have heard good things about it. If it works well, I'll probably switch just because of its ease of use, and lack of residue. Depending on the specific barrel and lube, it may cause a change in velocity, so you may need to tune accordingly. Fred J, I'm not surprised at your accuracy results, I have always found 880 or so to be the best velocity, at least for mid-range weight pellets. With really heavy pellets, I believe it is sometimes not possible to achieve enough velocity to stabilize the longer projectile.
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Yes.
I use fp-10 on my jsb pellets for my .22 mmhf barrel. It went from definitely needing a cleaning every 50 shots to maybe needs a cleaning every 200 shots.
Me too, in the same barrel, with similar results. In addition, IMHO, and restating the obvious, using JB paste and doing a good polishing of the bore also contributes to extended cleaning interval.
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I always lube my pellets and use White Lightning chain lube. It's silicon based so it's not oily or tacky at all. But I do polish my barrels with Flitz as well and between the two never need to clean my barrels.
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Fred, I agree with these guys, lubing your pellets will indeed extend the amount of time between cleanings. Barrels with a tight choke will tend to benefit the most. Next up would be those with a poor surface finish (fretting) left behind from pulling the rifling button through. Most barrels can be improved improved by deburring/polishing the bore. Needed tools and supplies are a good ball-bearing cleaning rod, suitably-sized cleaning felt pellets like Brownell’s VFG (or for .177, a jag and cotton patches), and a fine friable abrasive like JB or Flitz or rottenstone. If interested, there are a couple of links on the subject included in the barrel troubleshooting and accurizing link in my signature.
In terms of affecting accuracy, the consensus I’ve gotten from voraciously reading every topic I’ve come across in the last 5 years is that it sometimes helps, sometimes hurts, and sometimes makes no difference at all. I think that’s not altogether surprising. Most of us have had experiences where a slight change to some parameter made things better or worse…a slight change of velocity, the torque on some fastener, etc.
However my personal experience differs slightly. For the last two years or so, I’ve made it a habit to test new tins of pellets straight away and then again after cleaning and lubing with White Lightning (dry wax lube). I have yet to have any pellets do worse afterwards and several have done significantly better. Within that myriad of different pellets, what I’ve noticed is it makes no clear difference with JSB pellets. With H&N and RWS, the effects are mixed…with some it makes no difference (H&N FTT in particular) but others it may improve or remain unchanged. Then with Crosman, Gamo, Eun Jin and others, accuracy typically improves.
Granted those 3 levels of brand groupings are generally rank the best to the worst straight from the tin as well. As we move down that brand ranking scale, I find more molding defects on the pellets like parting lines and flashing. So for those types of pellets, I started more aggressively tumbling and swirling them in a wire strainer as I wash them. The thinking being maybe that would help break up the flashing and soften the parting lines. The improvements have been almost uniformly positive. If you’re interested, I opened a topic on it in the General gate
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=134454 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=134454)
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Swish, your comment about White Lightning being silicone-based reminded me there are multiple types. The one I use is the wax type. Results are what matters so if the silicone type is working well for you, definitely stick with it. I just wanted to mention I remember reading something from a well respected tuner, Motorhead I think, talking about silicone lube gunking up a barrel. That might have been from excessive use though, I don’t remember the particulars. I just tend to avoid silicone because it is a poor lubricant for metal on metal. I wouldn’t be surprised if the White Lightning product is a blend of some kind so that may be all the difference.
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Swish, your comment about White Lightning being silicone-based reminded me there are multiple types. The one I use is the wax type. Results are what matters so if the silicone type is working well for you, definitely stick with it. I just wanted to mention I remember reading something from a well respected tuner, Motorhead I think, talking about silicone lube gunking up a barrel. That might have been from excessive use though, I don’t remember the particulars. I just tend to avoid silicone because it is a poor lubricant for metal on metal. I wouldn’t be surprised if the White Lightning product is a blend of some kind so that may be all the difference.
Sorry, I miss spoke. The one I use is the wax based.
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Ed, just a comment about velocity as it relates to pellet stability. As Bob has pointed out on a few occasions, stability does not improve at higher velocities, it only worsens. Granted, it may not affect the pellet in any meaningful way until the velocity is up over 950-1000fps, but for example a pellet going 650fps is not less stable than one going 850fps.
However it’s perhaps worth pointing out the slower projectile is more susceptible to wind drift and also to cant error, both of which make it harder to hit what you’re aiming at out at ever increasing distances.
Instability tends to show up as either tumbling or spiraling. Tumbling can usually be picked up as keyholing in paper. Spiraling is best observed at distances >50 yards (though sometimes less) with high speed scope cam footage. You can see it in some of Hajimoto’s pesting vids, for example. Or one way I’ve checked for it is at night with a bright focused flashlight pointing downrange. The skirt lights up like a firefly.
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Thank you for your advice. I will lube my pellets!
I suspect that my accuracy problems at the lower velocity had something to due with stabilization. At the slower velocity (835 fps), I had nice round holes at 30 yards, but key-holing at 50 yards. At the higher velocity (890 fps), all holes are round, regardless of the distance. The wind conditions were identical (as much as possible) for both velocities when I tested the MRod.
I will keep the velocity at 890 fps.
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I use Slick 50 One Lube.
I don't need to clean my barrels.
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Fred, I will defer to Bob’s expertise on this but my guess is your velocity adjustment affected the barrel’s harmonic vibration in a positive way. I’m just a little surprised it would be a key contributor to keyholing at only 50 yards. Wide dispersion of the groups, yes, but keyholing, not so much. Interesting!
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Ed, just a comment about velocity as it relates to pellet stability. As Bob has pointed out on a few occasions, stability does not improve at higher velocities, it only worsens. Granted, it may not affect the pellet in any meaningful way until the velocity is up over 950-1000fps, but for example a pellet going 650fps is not less stable than one going 850fps.
However it’s perhaps worth pointing out the slower projectile is more susceptible to wind drift and also to cant error, both of which make it harder to hit what you’re aiming at out at ever increasing distances.
Instability tends to show up as either tumbling or spiraling. Tumbling can usually be picked up as keyholing in paper. Spiraling is best observed at distances >50 yards (though sometimes less) with high speed scope cam footage. You can see it in some of Hajimoto’s pesting vids, for example. Or one way I’ve checked for it is at night with a bright focused flashlight pointing downrange. The skirt lights up like a firefly.
Jason, I'm sure your comments are valid, at least it is beyond my competence to challenge them, and that is not my intention. But, if a pellet of a given length requires a certain spin rate for stability, and it is not reaching that rate at a given velocity, why would not a higher velocity contribute to reaching that gyroscopic stability, and thus better accuracy? Unless it was just coincidence, I believe I have seen this result.
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Fair question, and I will freely admit that I lack a thorough understanding of the various stability criteria. I was just citing analysis that Bob had given.
That won’t stop me from speculating though ;D Are you perhaps exchanging twist rate (1 turn in 16in) with spin rate (revolutions per minute)? Your statement about a pellet of a particular length needing a certain _____ for stability is usually cited in terms of twist rate rather than spin rate.
Pellets rely quite heavily on being flare stabilized (often erroneously called drag stabilized) by the classic shape of the wasp waist and flared skirt. Unlike bullets, they don’t need much spin. A good example is the very slow spin rate of FX’s original Smooth Twist where the effective twist rate is measured in feet, not inches. In fact, the instability that pellets sometimes experience at extended distances is aggravated by having too high of a spin rate. That’s because it’s shedding velocity much faster than spin rate, meaning its RPMs are now too fast with respect to its now much slower velocity…which is different than if the pellet had started off at that same low velocity.
Hopefully this distinction isn’t a complete non sequitur! :)
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I had a chance to test whether lubing (FP10) helps the accuracy of my MRod. I tested at 30, 35, 40 and 50 yards. Lubing the JSB 10.3gr pellets did not help the accuracy out to 40 yards, but did not make it worst, either.
I had a chance to shoot two 50 yard 10-shot groups before the next T-storm came in. I shot a quarter-size group (shown) in an 11 mph wind coming across my range from a 1:30 direction with FP10 lubed pellets. For comparison, the un-lubed pellets only manage a 1.5" group.
So it looks like it worth while to lube my pellets. Thank you for all your advice!
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Fair question, and I will freely admit that I lack a thorough understanding of the various stability criteria. I was just citing analysis that Bob had given.
That won’t stop me from speculating though ;D Are you perhaps exchanging twist rate (1 turn in 16in) with spin rate (revolutions per minute)? Your statement about a pellet of a particular length needing a certain _____ for stability is usually cited in terms of twist rate rather than spin rate.
Pellets rely quite heavily on being flare stabilized (often erroneously called drag stabilized) by the classic shape of the wasp waist and flared skirt. Unlike bullets, they don’t need much spin. A good example is the very slow spin rate of FX’s original Smooth Twist where the effective spin rate is measured in feet, not inches. In fact, the instability that pellets sometimes experience at extended distances is aggravated by having too high of a spin rate. That’s because it’s shedding velocity much faster than spin rate, meaning its RPMs are now too fast with respect to its now much slower velocity…which is different than if the pellet had started off at that same low velocity.
Hopefully this distinction isn’t a complete non sequitur! :)
A thoughtful post, and I appreciate it. Ballistic statistics have always interested me, but beyond my academic capacity to ponder much. And yes, I guess I do associate the twist rate with spin rate. If they do not directly correlate, then I guess I just need to add one more thing to my list of math deficiencies, which is quite long.
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Well, you’re in good company :) My attempt to explain the difference is rather comparable to the blind leading the blind. But just to put some quick numbers to it, a “standard” 1:16 twist rate will produce the following RPMs:
At 900fps muzzle velocity: 40,500 RPMs
At 600fps muzzle velocity: 27,000 RPMs
We know a pellet sheds velocity quickly due to its high drag. The RPMs don’t, though. I don’t have a quantifiable sense of how well the RPMs hold up at a distance but just for a the sake of discussion, let’s just say it doesn’t decay at all. And let’s imagine we were to look at the pellet fired at 900fps out at some distance where its velocity had fallen off to 600fps. It’s still spinning at nearly 40,000 RPMs…which is a different situation than the one leaving the muzzle at 600fps spinning at only 27,000 RPMs.
That’s all I was trying to convey in the previous message. I don’t have a grasp of how this relationship applies to the gyroscopic stability of each. That’s why I didn’t attempt to elaborate any further. Intuitively, it seems to me a pellet spinning at a really high RPM wants to wobble but if it’s moving at a high velocity, that produces a strong axial force (high drag force) that counteracts the radial force that is attempting to make it wobble.
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I hesitate to call it a quote, but if my memory serves me correctly, Motorhead mentioned that he simply uses a mixture of synthetic 2 cycle oil and gasoline. I can’t remember the ratio 50:1, 32:1??? Someone correct me if I’m wrong please. I don’t want to pass on bad information and my memory isn’t quite as sharp as it used to be.
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That’s because it’s shedding velocity much faster than spin rate, meaning its RPMs are now too fast with respect to its now much slower velocity…which is different than if the pellet had started off at that same low velocity.
Hopefully this distinction isn’t a complete non sequitur! :)
YES and therefore much higher BC of Piledriver .177/21gr can help at larger distances too.
Only one of ten hit the target a little bit side ways at 77 yd and muzzle speed 880 FPS .
Notice.
At JSB heavy and Monsters redesigned (.177 + .22 ) but also at Piledrivers any PTFE lubing did not help me at all. Just I have to add that I use long choked not polygonal LW 1:17,7” barrels ( .177 and .22 ).
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My attempt to explain the difference is rather comparable to the blind leading the blind.
I not agree. You are day by day more clear.
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i use to lube before, now i dont, i just leave them pellets alone, i run a patch or 2 every 3-4 card though
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Very interesting discussion on ballistics. May I share an observation that I have made?
When I started this thread this thread I shared how the accuracy of my MRod with JSB 10.3gr pellets improved when I increased the velocity from 835 fps to 890 fps. I have read were several other folks noted their ideal velocity of the MRod with 10.3gr pellets to be in the 880-910 fps range.
My other HFT rifle is a AA TX200, tuned to 13.5 fpe. I shoot the same pellet in it (JSB 10.3gr). The rifle has a MV of 770 fps. In this rifle the pellet is incredibly accurate at this slower velocity. This is probably no surprise to anyone. After all, the TX200 has a Lothar Walther barrel, while the MRod does not.
So here is my thought on ballistics, although I am very much a novice :o : From my limited experience, ballistics is a function of the pellet, velocity, and the rifle barrel.
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So here is my thought on ballistics, although I am very much a novice :o : From my limited experience, ballistics is a function of the pellet, velocity, and the rifle barrel.
And that's all you need to know! Except for some very basic stuff, it all gets down to testing pellets in a given barrel. Often the results are predictable, sometimes seem to defy logic.
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First of all, thank you for all your thoughts and advice.
Just to let you know how everything shook out with the pellet lubing issue with my MRod pellets:
I found that FP10 is better for lubing my pellets than Gamo oil. I used to have to clean my barrel every 120 shots. Today I cleaned the barrel after 200 shots with pellets lubed with FP10, and the patches didn't look half bad. I think I can extend my cleaning interval out to 300, and possibly 500 shots to see how long I can go without cleaning before accuracy suffers.
I am leaving the rifle tuned to shoot JSB 10.3gr pellets at 891 fps. At this tune, I am getting 55-60 shots with an extreme spread of 11.5 fps when I fill the rifle to 2550 psi and shoot it down to 1759 psi. What really helps this shot string in the twin spring hammer spring system and the MDS hammer that I installed in the MRod.
Over the last three days I have shot five 50 yard targets under varying wind conditions (~5 mph crosswind). The average group size was 0.8 inches with a range of 0.56" to 1.12". Four out of five targets had group sizes less than 1 inch.
I was about to give up on the MRod for HFT matches. I had even gone so far as to order a BSA R-11 mk2. However, the MRod is doing so well that I may cancel this order. :D
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Before you will buy new gun try to shoot 50yd at death calm weather ( at dusk ) or better at indoor place .
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I hesitate to call it a quote, but if my memory serves me correctly, Motorhead mentioned that he simply uses a mixture of synthetic 2 cycle oil and gasoline. I can’t remember the ratio 50:1, 32:1??? Someone correct me if I’m wrong please. I don’t want to pass on bad information and my memory isn’t quite as sharp as it used to be.
While i have primarily used Finishline Krytek wax chain lube on harder pellets such as Crosman and H&N after a cleaning. Also have had very good success when cleaning pellets with Naptha that after a couple wash cycles to settle out the loose chaf that the final wash was with 2 stroke oil in the naptha ( Just a wetting really ) places a film over the entire lead surface of pellet preventing oxidation while also having a very minor film of lubricant.
Done at @ 16:1 or so, when pellets spread out to dry ( Naptha evaporate ) the oil film left behind is not really wet but more of trace film that does not drip or run etc ...
In my Match rifles that use HW or LW barrels that are lapped & polished ... using JSB pellets they require no lube at all to provide there best accuracy.
IMO really more a barrel thing and if or not your pellets get/are oxidized & speeds your shooting them at. Not really right or wrong to lube but IF OR NOT your gun/barrel pellet combo wants it :o
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This morning was pretty calm (0-5 mph), so I shot three 5-shot groups at 50 yards before the wind picked up. The group sizes ranged from 0.688" to 0.875", with and average of 0.792" (center to center). I shot these groups off of buckets and sticks, so I am pretty happy with the results.
When I pool this mornings data with the past three day (5 50-yard groups), I'm getting an average of 0.8", center to center.
If there is anyone out there who has shot 8 50 yard targets in a row over 5 days with a BSA R-ll mk2 with these kind of results, please let me know. I need to make a decision if I should cancel my order for the BSA R-11 mk2.
Thank you!
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I lube pellets like H&N and Benjamins, I don't lube JSB and Predators.
Benjamin pellets I first clean with WD40 then lube ( Slick 50, Ballistol, chain lube, Pledge, ...depends what I have ).
H&N pellets I just rub them with paper towel then lube.
.....Hardly ever clean my barrels.
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Fred,
0,8”/50yd is acceptable with JSB/ .177/10,3gr/890pFPS/no lube/(0-5mph)/no using clamp but not the best. Try to shoot at totally dead calm weather and tune your barrel ( lapping , free floating, tense/CF stiffening the barrel , better barrel fixing/stiffening inside breech,… )
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Thank you for the advice skorec. I have tried all your excellent recommendations in the past, and they did not help the accuracy of the MRod. This MRod shoots best without baffles, with the barrel free sloated. I tried polishing the barrel with JB paste, but it did not improve accuracy.
My problem is that the wind almost always blows here (I live on a hill). This morning I finally shot a dime-size group (9/16") at 50 yards off
bucket and sticks in a 10 mph wind (45 degrees across the range). Also, for some unknown reason, I shoot my best off buckets and sticks. I just can't seem to get the hang bench rest shooting :o
I spent most of the time this morning shooting a mildot correction curve targets off a bucket and sticks at 10, 12, 15, 18, 21, 25, 35, 40, and 50 yards for my upcoming HFT match. All groups at all distances could be covered with a dime. All groups out to 21 yards could be covered with a 22 Cal pellet. I sure that their are some shooters who could do much better than this, but I am satisfied for now.
The more I shoot pellets lubed with FP10, the more accurate the MRod seems to get. I still need to refine my hold on the pistol grip (I was holding it too lightly), and I need to be more consistent with my follow though on my trigger pull. So in other words, my MRod is accurate, but some work needs to be done with the nut behind the trigger.
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I spent most of the time this morning shooting a mildot correction curve targets off a bucket and sticks at 10, 12, 15, 18, 21, 25, 35, 40, and 50 yards for my upcoming HFT match. All groups at all distances could be covered with a dime. All groups out to 21 yards could be covered with a 22 Cal pellet. I sure that their are some shooters who could do much better than this, but I am satisfied for now.
That is AMAZING shooting - well done!
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...
I spent most of the time this morning shooting a mildot correction curve targets off a bucket and sticks at 10, 12, 15, 18, 21, 25, 35, 40, and 50 yards for my upcoming HFT match. ...
That would be interesting data to see if you can find the time to post it. I keep telling myself I should to the R10, but there are some logistical issues that will keep that off in the future for a while.
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The rifle has a MV of 770 fps. In this rifle the pellet is incredibly accurate at this slower velocity.
I am thinking that only because for lover velocity shooting PCP gun need lighter hammer strike which push the gun less.
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I use Chairgun Pro (free software available from Hawke) as an initial trajectory prediction, then I shoot at various distances to see what my actual Mildot corrections should be. Most of the time, Chairgun gives an accurate prediction. I use these corrections in Filed Target matches to compensate for the pellets trajectory, after I have estimated the distance with my side-wheel focuser.
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Thanks for posting that, Fred! At 18 yards, is the actual mildot 0.25 or -0.25? (That's the only one way out of line with chairgun and just seems out of line with the trend in the data.)
I wish I could say precisely what to expect with an R10, but I'm liking mine and others have too. Whenever I've been out to John's place to do some long range shooting, I've ended up spending almost all the time going after his woodchucks ::)
The regulator pitched another fit last week, so it is getting a Huma installed probably Tuesday evening if the package tracking is accurate.
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Thanks for catching that. The mildot correction at 18 yards is actually -0.25.
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Thank you for the advice skorec. I have tried all your excellent recommendations in the past, and they did not help the accuracy of the MRod. This MRod shoots best without baffles, with the barrel free sloated. I tried polishing the barrel with JB paste, but it did not improve accuracy.
My problem is that the wind almost always blows here (I live on a hill). This morning I finally shot a dime-size group (9/16") at 50 yards off
bucket and sticks in a 10 mph wind (45 degrees across the range). Also, for some unknown reason, I shoot my best off buckets and sticks. I just can't seem to get the hang bench rest shooting :o
I spent most of the time this morning shooting a mildot correction curve targets off a bucket and sticks at 10, 12, 15, 18, 21, 25, 35, 40, and 50 yards for my upcoming HFT match. All groups at all distances could be covered with a dime. All groups out to 21 yards could be covered with a 22 Cal pellet. I sure that their are some shooters who could do much better than this, but I am satisfied for now.
The more I shoot pellets lubed with FP10, the more accurate the MRod seems to get. I still need to refine my hold on the pistol grip (I was holding it too lightly), and I need to be more consistent with my follow though on my trigger pull. So in other words, my MRod is accurate, but some work needs to be done with the nut behind the trigger.
fred the more you shoot the tighter the group,,sometimes its the shooter getting adjusted to the rifle,,its everything actually getting consistency like your hold where you put your head when shooting, how you pull the trigger,, and 9/16 groupings at 50yds is excellent coz youre not using a table or bench rested
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heres what i did at 45 yds forend support by ms table,, rear with my fist ,using a heavy rifle for bench shooting, 8.44's at 830 -840 fps
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Scott,
what grit do you end your lapping at ?
I recently discovered that too fine a grit causes much more friction.
I hesitate to call it a quote, but if my memory serves me correctly, Motorhead mentioned that he simply uses a mixture of synthetic 2 cycle oil and gasoline. I can’t remember the ratio 50:1, 32:1??? Someone correct me if I’m wrong please. I don’t want to pass on bad information and my memory isn’t quite as sharp as it used to be.
While i have primarily used Finishline Krytek wax chain lube on harder pellets such as Crosman and H&N after a cleaning. Also have had very good success when cleaning pellets with Naptha that after a couple wash cycles to settle out the loose chaf that the final wash was with 2 stroke oil in the naptha ( Just a wetting really ) places a film over the entire lead surface of pellet preventing oxidation while also having a very minor film of lubricant.
Done at @ 16:1 or so, when pellets spread out to dry ( Naptha evaporate ) the oil film left behind is not really wet but more of trace film that does not drip or run etc ...
In my Match rifles that use HW or LW barrels that are lapped & polished ... using JSB pellets they require no lube at all to provide there best accuracy.
IMO really more a barrel thing and if or not your pellets get/are oxidized & speeds your shooting them at. Not really right or wrong to lube but IF OR NOT your gun/barrel pellet combo wants it :o
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For those who wash pellets with soap and water, has anyone tried adding a touch of automotive car wax to the water, mix it up so the wax dissolves and use that mix as the lube?
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I hesitate to call it a quote, but if my memory serves me correctly, Motorhead mentioned that he simply uses a mixture of synthetic 2 cycle oil and gasoline. I can’t remember the ratio 50:1, 32:1??? Someone correct me if I’m wrong please. I don’t want to pass on bad information and my memory isn’t quite as sharp as it used to be.
. using JSB pellets they require no lube at all to provide there best accuracy.
I agree absolutely. Oil lube only create asymmetrical snots at the muzzle. Powder lube is best.
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I hesitate to call it a quote, but if my memory serves me correctly, Motorhead mentioned that he simply uses a mixture of synthetic 2 cycle oil and gasoline. I can’t remember the ratio 50:1, 32:1??? Someone correct me if I’m wrong please. I don’t want to pass on bad information and my memory isn’t quite as sharp as it used to be.
. using JSB pellets they require no lube at all to provide there best accuracy.
I agree absolutely. Oil lube only create asymmetrical snots at the muzzle. Powder lube is best.
Understand that lubricant within a barrel bore ALSO will act as an adhesive / binding agent for the lead dust that is created with every pellet shot !!
Just like moly grease does on a surface it creates a SMEAR of solids suspended in a oil/grease.
When the bore is wet the DRY lead dust that would otherwise be blown out behind the pellet leaves behind a small percentage that adheres to the lubricant film present. The subsequent shots start burnishing this lead/oil paste along surface of the bore. * Some barrels will like this and shoot better with it present ... others will not !!
Just some FYI
Scott
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My mmhf barrel likes the fp-10 lubricated jsb, and my mutant cz barrel does as well. I couldn't really tell much difference with lubed vs not on the mutant, but lubing all of them means they are ready to go in either gun at any time, so it works for me.
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I have a question: Should I clean the barrel with patches damp with FP10, or should I use dry patches?
I kept shooting my FP10 lubed JSB 10.3gr pellets in my MRod to see how many shots I could get between barrel cleanings before the accuracy fell off. This happened abruptly after 130 shots. For comparison, I was cleaning my barrel every 80 shots or so with un-lubed JSB 10.3gr, and every 100 shots with Gamo oil lubed pellets.
It was crazy, shots 21 to 130 produced the best groups I have ever shot with any air rifle. Then at shot 131, I began to see fliers. The more I shot, the more fliers I saw.
When I cleaned the barrel, the first 4 FP10 damp patches were pretty black, but after that I only need 4 more patches to get the barrel really clean.
So at any rate, I will clean the barrel every 120 shots, which happens to be every 2 air refills. It take 20 shots to season the barrel, so I will be getting 100 accurate shots between cleanings.
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I lube my .22 pellets with FP-10, and for cleaning I use a bore snake with the brushes removed (ad the brass weight trimmed down to fit the breech). I have Ballistol on the front bit of the bore snake to aid cleaning, the middle section is dry, and I put a little FP-10 on the back end of it. I typically find the gun dead on after a couple of pulls of the snake. Works great and is simple, and I pull through every hundred shots or so just because it is so easy to do.
Every few months I wash and dry the bore snake and then re-apply the lubes to the proper section too.