GTA
Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2 and springers ,rams => Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2 => Topic started by: Tweeter on May 14, 2018, 07:06:01 PM
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I bought the compressor a few months ago and it had very little use on it. I used it only to fill my Warp with 350cc bottle less than 30 times and it quit on me. I've changed the oil 3 times just since owning it and used compressor oil (no I wasn't using that jack oil in the picture ;)) Each fill on my gun was less than 1 minute and the temp never got above 45 degrees C. Now it just won't push any air, there is barely a trickle coming out of the fill hose with the compressor running and both bleed valves closed.
The only signs I saw that something might be wrong with it were the last couple fills I noticed it seemed to take longer to pressurize the line and filter before it started to fill my gun. Oddly though it seemed to fill my gun just fine. I'm sure it took longer but the change wasn't drastic enough so I took notice. I'm guessing it is the second stage rings? If I can't find replacement parts for this Vevor (who knows if this is really the brand but thats what they call it) I may try to find a complete Yong Heng replacement head, pipes and the works to put on my bottom end. The bottom end on this Vevor is the exact same as the YH as far as I can tell. If I can't find the parts for a reasonable price then I will just invest in an actual Yong Heng where I know I can get spare parts. I will tear into it this weekend to see if I can find the issue. Any ideas what it could be?
Interested if anybody else with this compressor has had any trouble with theirs? Heres a picture of mine so you can see what it looks like ;) Also if anyone knows where I might score a complete Yong Heng upper I would be grateful!!!
(https://i.imgur.com/bJRGBwa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fnvZ9YC.jpg)
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If anyone has found a site to buy parts for THIS compressor than that would be even better!
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I have this exact same compressor. Keeping my fingers crossed, only used it once so far to top of my 30 min CF tank from approx 2500psi to 4500psi. It worked perfectly.
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Tweeter, I JUST finished converting my Vevor compressor with the Yong Heng head over the weekend. I haven't had the time yet to fill up a tank, but on quick initial test, everything works. You're correct, the bottom end (crankcase and mounting points) are the exact same on the Vevor and Yong Heng. It cost me $150 for all the conversion pieces.
I've been meaning to write up a post on my experiences, but life keeps getting in the way. When I got my Vevor, I had oil coming out of every fitting, hose, etc, and I did a full tear down before running it. What I found wasn't pretty...the metal castings are really rough with tons of slag left on it. The mfg then paints over the slag with silver paint, assembles the compressor and runs the compressor to "break it in". My compressor had metal shavings/slag everywhere...all the way up to the second stage. Just doing oil changes won't get all the crud out, you have to go through piece by piece to clean things out. There is a rubber screen/gasket thats right behind the crankcase cover, and it will prevent metal shavings from draining out with the oil when you do a oil change. The metal shavings like to get stuck to the rubber screen and stay inside the machine instead of getting drained out.
My recommendation to you is to tear it all down, and clean it out. In my case, I had metal debris sitting in the crank, piston ringlands, and second stage compression orings. If I had to take a guess, I'd say that you probably have a damaged oring in the second stage. If that's the case, it's a easy fix and I think they included some spare orings with the Vevor originally. Finding parts for these compressors is an adventure. The search engine on AliExpress is garbage (and parts aren't sold on ebay). The most effective method I've found is to have a picture of whatever part you need, and then message sellers on AliExpress asking them if they can sell the part. You might get lucky and they'll already have a product link to send you, or (like in my case) you'll have to wait for them to create a new item listing so you can purchase it. If you can identify the parts you need, I might be able to help you source them as well.
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Tweeter, I JUST finished converting my Vevor compressor with the Yong Heng head over the weekend. I haven't had the time yet to fill up a tank, but on quick initial test, everything works. You're correct, the bottom end (crankcase and mounting points) are the exact same on the Vevor and Yong Heng. It cost me $150 for all the conversion pieces.
I've been meaning to write up a post on my experiences, but life keeps getting in the way. When I got my Vevor, I had oil coming out of every fitting, hose, etc, and I did a full tear down before running it. What I found wasn't pretty...the metal castings are really rough with tons of slag left on it. The mfg then paints over the slag with silver paint, assembles the compressor and runs the compressor to "break it in". My compressor had metal shavings/slag everywhere...all the way up to the second stage. Just doing oil changes won't get all the crud out, you have to go through piece by piece to clean things out. There is a rubber screen/gasket thats right behind the crankcase cover, and it will prevent metal shavings from draining out with the oil when you do a oil change. The metal shavings like to get stuck to the rubber screen and stay inside the machine instead of getting drained out.
My recommendation to you is to tear it all down, and clean it out. In my case, I had metal debris sitting in the crank, piston ringlands, and second stage compression orings. If I had to take a guess, I'd say that you probably have a damaged oring in the second stage. If that's the case, it's a easy fix and I think they included some spare orings with the Vevor originally. Finding parts for these compressors is an adventure. The search engine on AliExpress is garbage (and parts aren't sold on ebay). The most effective method I've found is to have a picture of whatever part you need, and then message sellers on AliExpress asking them if they can sell the part. You might get lucky and they'll already have a product link to send you, or (like in my case) you'll have to wait for them to create a new item listing so you can purchase it. If you can identify the parts you need, I might be able to help you source them as well.
Andy, when I got my Vevor the same thing. It had been shipped upside down with residual oil left in it from "testing" and the entire top was full of oil. It over pressurized the head so the motor wouldn't even turn over so I had to tear it down and clean it all out just to get it to run. They did refund me $100 so I was happy since I got it working. The second stage piston ring is different than the Yong Heng and I havent been able to find them anywhere. I didn't have any included with my compressor either which is why I want to swap to YH parts. Here is a pic of the second stage ring I took when I first tore it apart
(https://i.imgur.com/c06Y4xT.jpg)
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I didn't take off the crankcase cover and clean that out yet. I will for sure though if I end up using my bottom. Thanks for the heads up ;)
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Hey Justin,
Sorry, brain fart on my part, if I would have taken 2 minutes to go look at the Vevor piston assembly I have, I would have known the 2nd stage seal wasn't just a normal oring.
Anyway, once you figure out which part failed, I would suggest contacting "Joto Valve and Pump Store" on AliExpress. They sell the "Vevor style" cylinder head, so there shouldn't be a problem getting other replacement parts (aside from the slow shipping from China).
Here's a link to a listing from Joto where they sell the cylinder head. Just use the page to contact them and ask for whatever it is you need.
http://s.aliexpress.com/RjuUjuQ7 (http://s.aliexpress.com/RjuUjuQ7)
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have you checked for leaks or slow leaks,, ?
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If I do get a pump of this type it's going to be the yong heng right from the start. I would probably tear it down to start with and remove everything from the inside of it that didn't belong. It makes a person wonder if the Vevor brand just buys the parts and assembles them or what ??? I supposed it could be they order the cheaper version from the Chinese mfg too. I'm sure they're all made at the same factory though.
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I have this exact same compressor. Keeping my fingers crossed, only used it once so far to top of my 30 min CF tank from approx 2500psi to 4500psi. It worked perfectly.
Hopefully yours continues to work like it should Jimmy, let us know.
have you checked for leaks or slow leaks,, ?
Yes, no leaks at all just wont build pressure.
Hey Justin,
Sorry, brain fart on my part, if I would have taken 2 minutes to go look at the Vevor piston assembly I have, I would have known the 2nd stage seal wasn't just a normal oring.
Anyway, once you figure out which part failed, I would suggest contacting "Joto Valve and Pump Store" on AliExpress. They sell the "Vevor style" cylinder head, so there shouldn't be a problem getting other replacement parts (aside from the slow shipping from China).
Here's a link to a listing from Joto where they sell the cylinder head. Just use the page to contact them and ask for whatever it is you need.
http://s.aliexpress.com/RjuUjuQ7 (http://s.aliexpress.com/RjuUjuQ7)
I'm thinking I might rather just go with the Yong Heng top end now instead of having to repair this thing every 20 minutes of run time lol I'll wait and see what the issue is when I take it apart but I think it would have to be the second stage ring??? Now if I could buy a big bag of rings for the second stage than I would be in business because I could change that out in 5 minutes flat, its easy to get to. I will send Joto pump and valve a picture of my piston to see if they have the ring I need. Thanks for the link!
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Hey Andy, is that Vevor piston you have in good shape or did yours stop working also and thats why you switched to yong heng parts?
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Just emailed Joto and sent a picture of my piston with the ring circled and asked if they would sell me a bunch separate.
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Hey Andy, is that Vevor piston you have in good shape or did yours stop working also and thats why you switched to yong heng parts?
My Vevor piston is fine. I broke a piston ring on it last month when I was trying to clean all the &^^& out of it, but I ordered replacement piston rings from China (nobody stateside carried them), and they finally arrived yesterday. I converted to the YH head for no real reason other than to get what I originally wanted. When I ordered the compressor off eBay, all the pictures showed it with the Yong Heng style head, but it wasn't what I received and that just irked me from the start. It's interesting though, we all have a general consensus that the YH head design is better...but when I compare my Vevor head to my Yong Heng, the fit and finish on the Vevor stuff is better. I might try to do some comparison testing in the next month or so, and try to figure out which design is more efficient (less hear, quicker fill times, etc).
Back to your situation though, it's possible that you could have a nicked oring, separate from the second stage ring. For example, it could be a failure in the oring that seals the first stage to the second stage. Once you get a chance to tear into your compressor, take pictures of anything you think looks suspect and send it over my way. I can compare it to my Vevor head and maybe we can try to figure out what's wrong with it.
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Will do thanks Andy. Off to work now but It may be an early day as it looks like it will start raining this morning. If so I might dig into it this afternoon.
To me it seems like the YH second stage piston is a better design as it uses 3 rings instead of the one like the Vevor. I could be wrong though. Actually surprised that the Vevor fit and finish is better than YH, I just assumed it would be the other way around
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Justin,
I have ran my Vevor for approximately 17 mins total (1 run) and my oil turned dark. I changed the oil in it already and left it ready to use it again for when the time comes that I need to top off my tank again. More than likely that could be weeks before I actually use it again. Not that much shooting lately as I'd like.
Anyways, looking at your picture of the 2nd stage ring, to me it looks fine, am I missing something?
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If the second stage rings ate a problem, you might be able to drop in a tuxing piston assy with the split rings. I have a spare one if you want to try it. I also have a tuxing top end as well.
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Justin,
I have ran my Vevor for approximately 17 mins total (1 run) and my oil turned dark. I changed the oil in it already and left it ready to use it again for when the time comes that I need to top off my tank again. More than likely that could be weeks before I actually use it again. Not that much shooting lately as I'd like.
Anyways, looking at your picture of the 2nd stage ring, to me it looks fine, am I missing something?
Jimmy, that picture is from when my compressor was brand new. I had to tear it down when I got it because it had been shipped upside down with a bit of oil in it so the head (above the piston) was full of oil. I plan to take it apart this afternoon and I bet it doesn't look that good anymore! ;)
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If the second stage rings ate a problem, you might be able to drop in a tuxing piston assy with the split rings. I have a spare one if you want to try it. I also have a tuxing top end as well.
Thanks for the offer I appreciate it and I may take you up on it as long as you'll allow me to pay for it. Can you get measurements on the piston, I can measure my piston and bore when I have it apart this afternoon? It would be interesting to see if tuxing, yong heng and any other chinese compressor pistons are compatible with different brands/types.
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Justin,
I have ran my Vevor for approximately 17 mins total (1 run) and my oil turned dark. I changed the oil in it already and left it ready to use it again for when the time comes that I need to top off my tank again. More than likely that could be weeks before I actually use it again. Not that much shooting lately as I'd like.
Anyways, looking at your picture of the 2nd stage ring, to me it looks fine, am I missing something?
Jimmy, that picture is from when my compressor was brand new. I had to tear it down when I got it because it had been shipped upside down with a bit of oil in it so the head (above the piston) was full of oil. I plan to take it apart this afternoon and I bet it doesn't look that good anymore! ;)
Got it! Makes sense now LOL...hope you get your sorted out and it will be very informative to know if parts are interchangeable between the different makes.
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Yes if thats the case then if anyones Vevor quits and can't find spare rings (like me) then you could just slap a YH or Tuxing piston on there and order a bag of spare rings for it for not much money. I may be getting ahead of myself, maybe its not even the rings thats the issue. What else could it be though? I'm not a compressor expert thats for sure, I learn as I go haha.
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If the second stage rings ate a problem, you might be able to drop in a tuxing piston assy with the split rings. I have a spare one if you want to try it. I also have a tuxing top end as well.
Thanks for the offer I appreciate it and I may take you up on it as long as you'll allow me to pay for it. Can you get measurements on the piston, I can measure my piston and bore when I have it apart this afternoon? It would be interesting to see if tuxing, yong heng and any other chinese compressor pistons are compatible with different brands/types.
Sure thing. I'll try to remember when I get home. It also could be a check valve that isn't letting it build pressure.
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I forgot about the check valve!!!!! I am in the process of tearing it apart now and thought I would check here just for the heck of it. After reading your post I located the check valve and it does look a little deformed. Honestly everything else looks pretty good. Some carbon build up on the second stage piston but no obvious damage to rings piston or bore. I got pictures and will upload em tonight. For now I'm gonna slap this baby back together (with the spare check valve I got with the compressor) and see if that does it. Hope the ring gap position doesnt matter on these? Oh and just from looking down into the bottom end I see no metal shavings whatsoever. Will take the cover off and clean it still though.
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Well now I REALLY wish I would have read your post about the check valve BEFORE I tore my compressor down completely.
Kill fire you are the man!!! I put everything back together, replaced that check valve, put the dead head onto the fill hose and fired it up.... 4500 psi in seconds! Oh well maybe this thread will save somebody the trouble in the future. ;)
Still going to test it with a full fill on my gun to make sure it's back in action, the second stage ring did fit a little loose when I put it back together but so far so good! Thanks guys! Will still upload pics so everyone can see the guts of the famed VEVOR air pump!
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Well now I REALLY wish I would have read your post about the check valve BEFORE I tore my compressor down completely.
Kill fire you are the man!!! I put everything back together, replaced that check valve, put the dead head onto the fill hose and fired it up.... 4500 psi in seconds! Oh well maybe this thread will save somebody the trouble in the future. ;)
Still going to test it with a full fill on my gun to make sure it's back in action, the second stage ring did fit a little loose when I put it back together but so far so good! Thanks guys! Will still upload pics so everyone can see the guts of the famed VEVOR air pump!
No problem, glad you fixed it with parts you already had! Here are the piston measurements anyways.
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Justin,
Glad you were able to find the simple fix, and glad those do come with this compressor as spares from the factory. So looks like I feel more confident in my purchase afterall ;) ;D :D...This is still a very good thread to save with this new found info. Thanks again. Looking forward to the pics too.
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Thanks Jimmy, I'm glad it was simple too. I learned my lesson, try the simple things before completely disassembling something!
Heres the pics in no particular order. A little carbon on the piston but not too bad it cleaned up easily. In the pic of the small black plastic check valve you can see how the tip is kind of ballooned out. I think maybe this caused it to stick open??? I should have taken a picture side by side with the new one so you could see the difference between them. Also if anybody needs to know where this check valve goes I can take a picture showing you the fitting it and the spring sit behind. Simple to just undo that fitting, take the spring and valve out and replace with new. You can also see how the second stage ring is attached to the piston with a flat head screw. If we can find replacements these would be dead easy to replace. Easier than the YH I would imagine. Just remove the screw and replace the rings. The offending check valve is the last photo.
(https://i.imgur.com/cdt4Z4r.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YOEULlL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/T5xqiGx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/U7fHS63.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HY2Zu3a.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/C89mRsW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aT1ak7K.jpg)
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The check valve sits behind this fitting that I circled in blue so when the air comes in the intake it can't leave the same way it came in. Kind of hard to see but its right below the pressure gauge...
(https://i.imgur.com/K1XTxxE.jpg)
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Thanks for all the info and pics Justin, if and when mine should break down, this thread will be the first I check again. ;)
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Absolutely bro, hope it helps you in the future.
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Well now I REALLY wish I would have read your post about the check valve BEFORE I tore my compressor down completely.
Kill fire you are the man!!! I put everything back together, replaced that check valve, put the dead head onto the fill hose and fired it up.... 4500 psi in seconds! Oh well maybe this thread will save somebody the trouble in the future. ;)
Still going to test it with a full fill on my gun to make sure it's back in action, the second stage ring did fit a little loose when I put it back together but so far so good! Thanks guys! Will still upload pics so everyone can see the guts of the famed VEVOR air pump!
No problem, glad you fixed it with parts you already had! Here are the piston measurements anyways.
Thanks for the measurements Jason, that looks to be the same piston as mine except for obviously the gold part. It may just work if them small second stage rings are the same diameter as mine??? In the future I may try it...
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The second stage rings are split so they're a little large and resist going into the head when new. Once they break in they fit very well.
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Great !! It is good info .. glad you compressor is up and running !
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Tweeter, any machinist can make you the spare second stage seals. Just buy some graphite impregnated ptfe rod for the material.
Very easy part to make on a manual lathe, and super fast to make a lot on a cnc.
What compressor oil are you using, specifically for hpa?
Looks like a lot of carbon buildup to me, I'm guessing regular compressor oil?
Marko
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The second stage rings are split so they're a little large and resist going into the head when new. Once they break in they fit very well.
Good to know thanks. From my experience this is how any piston rings should be, mine went in a little too easily so its probably on the way out.
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Tweeter, any machinist can make you the spare second stage seals. Just buy some graphite impregnated ptfe rod for the material.
Very easy part to make on a manual lathe, and super fast to make a lot on a cnc.
What compressor oil are you using, specifically for hpa?
Looks like a lot of carbon buildup to me, I'm guessing regular compressor oil?
Marko
Yup just regular compressor oil. I had a bottle that I picked up when I originally bought the compressor but just used the last of it now. Plan to start using Royal purple synthetic on the next oil change.
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Wrong oil for HPA compressor use, not designed for hpa compressors.
Coltri or Bauer make real hpa compressor oils, and so does chemlube I think. Ce750 or iso vg150 oils, they are slightly thicker and are not so prone to selfignite.
Why on earth use 300-400$ on compressor then go cheap on the oil?
I wouldn't dare to run anything other than hpa oils on my hpa compressor.
Marko
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Wrong oil for HPA compressor use, not designed for hpa compressors.
Coltri or Bauer make real hpa compressor oils, and so does chemlube I think. Ce750 or iso vg150 oils, they are slightly thicker and are not so prone to selfignite.
Why on earth use 300-400$ on compressor then go cheap on the oil?
I wouldn't dare to run anything other than hpa oils on my hpa compressor.
Marko
The oil has been working just fine, it had nothing to do with why my compressor quit but I'll let you know when it fails again. Most have been running #46 hydraulic oil in theirs (what the manual calls for) and have not had any trouble and lots have been using regular compressor oil as well without issues. I did plenty of reading before deciding which oil to use. Not interested in turning this into an oil thread ;)
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Glad to see you got it up and running Jerry..
BTW... good luck trying to keep a thread on topic... ;)
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Great info guys!
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Glad to see you got it up and running Jerry..
BTW... good luck trying to keep a thread on topic... ;)
Normally I don't care if a thread I started goes off topic if people are chatting it up and having fun it's all good with me. The "Which oil should I use?" threads are always an adventure though where everyone ends up agreeing to disagree ;D.
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Yep.... it's kinda like.... "It's mine, I'll wash it as fast as I wa...... no, wait.... that's another forum... my bad.
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Finally had time after work today to try filling my gun. The little VEVOR filled the 350cc bottle from 2200-3600psi in under a minute as usual 8)
So it had to be that check valve as that was the only thing I changed.
Killfire hooked me up with a Tuxing complete head assembly/ piston and spare parts so the next time it gives me trouble I will swap them on that way I will be able to find parts easily in the future. Thanks Jason!
One more tidbit, when I put the piston back into the cylinder I clocked the ring gaps 120 degrees apart. There are 3 rings/gaps so just space them evenly and make sure they aren't all lined up together. I don't think it has to be perfect ;)
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Oh yeah, working just fine. Dont mind a little carbon deposits on my cylinders...
Seems to me like some combustion occurring in the cylinder, but hey its just more pressure right?
Looks like most of people are only considered the cost at the moment of purchase to me.
All I can say that have respect on the high pressure you are producing with your reliable good quality machine using The oil that the manufacturer recommended who is interested in one thing only and that is YOUR money, not your life or your wellbeing only your money.
There are incidents with real scuba compressors exploding even with the correct oil for lack of maintenance or disregarding some aspects of usin proper procedure.
But hey, what do I know. And apologies for distracting your thread with meaningless oil discussions.
Marko
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Hey if its unsafe to use regular compressor oil I will change it before I use it again. Can anybody tell me if Royal Purple Synthetic Recip 100 will make my compressor explode? Is that good enough for my reliable good quality machine?
I wonder how much money the manufacturer makes off all the #46 hydraulic oil everybody buys at Pepboys?
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He makes money by selling parts the poor oil destroys thats all.
Marko
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Yup, this just turned into a oil thread.
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Hey Justin,
Sorry, brain fart on my part, if I would have taken 2 minutes to go look at the Vevor piston assembly I have, I would have known the 2nd stage seal wasn't just a normal oring.
Anyway, once you figure out which part failed, I would suggest contacting "Joto Valve and Pump Store" on AliExpress. They sell the "Vevor style" cylinder head, so there shouldn't be a problem getting other replacement parts (aside from the slow shipping from China).
Here's a link to a listing from Joto where they sell the cylinder head. Just use the page to contact them and ask for whatever it is you need.
http://s.aliexpress.com/RjuUjuQ7 (http://s.aliexpress.com/RjuUjuQ7)
I emailed Joto and they swear that they dont have or sell any parts for my compressor. Even after I sent them pictures of everything and also the picture from their ad of the head assembly. They said they only sell yong heng stuff? Maybe language barrier? I will be converting my compressor to Tuxing anyhow and then I can buy piston rings on ebay for $8
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I'm not going to buy a complete head/piston assembly everytime I need a second stage ring lol
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This past weekend I did my second fill with my Vevor. It took about 20 minutes to fill from 200bars to 300bars. Even with a bucket with 20lb of ice, the temp still got to 57C.
I only worked a half day today, so after my dental appointment, I proceeded to tear down the Vevor. Just to see if there was anything out of the ordinary. During the teardown I found it a piece which don't know where it dropped out of. Rereading this thread, it looks to be like the check valve you were referring to.
So, where does this check valve and spring actually go?
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2vlphe8.jpg)
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I think it goes in to the fitting you put it next to, conical part pointing to he cylinder.
Marko
Edit: yep, thats the correct place for it, Tweeter put a picture on the second page circled in blue.
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Dinh, it sits behind this fitting circled in blue.
(https://i.imgur.com/K1XTxxE.jpg)
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Whoops, just noticed that MJP already pointed it out. My brain isn't on yet, its 4am :o
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Thanks, guys!
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Dinh,
So was there anything out of the ordinary? My temps have reached 56-59 and I've only topped off my 30 min scba tank twice in the last month or so and I'm keeping a log of run times and pressures filled, just to know how much I've actually ran the compressor. I use a tin bucket that seems to keep the cold ice water cooler for a longer time. The first time I topped off the my tank was from around 2600 psi to 4300 in 17 mins and reached 59 on the temp guage. The second time I only ran it 7 mins to top of my tank and that went up to 48 on the temp guage.
(https://i.imgur.com/gG9cZYv.jpg)
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Dinh,
So was there anything out of the ordinary? My temps have reached 56-59 and I've only topped off my 30 min scba tank twice in the last month or so and I'm keeping a log of run times and pressures filled, just to know how much I've actually ran the compressor. I use a tin bucket that seems to keep the cold ice water cooler for a longer time. The first time I topped off the my tank was from around 2600 psi to 4300 in 17 mins and reached 59 on the temp guage. The second time I only ran it 7 mins to top of my tank and that went up to 48 on the temp guage.
(https://i.imgur.com/gG9cZYv.jpg)
I've stripped it down last night, but haven't had a chance to take a really close look at everything. The only thing that was obvious so far is that I found a filter that had broken loose inside the bronze colored block on the compressors right side. It must have worked its way loose from all the vibration. I'll try to get a picture tonight of this tonight. My son has soccer practice tonight and tomorrow night, so not a lot of time for a thorough inspection.
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Well, my compressor failed tonight, this would have been the 4th time using it. Will not make any pressure past 300-400psi guage. I figured it was the check valve and went ahead and swapped it out, easy 10 minute job. Fired it up and still same thing. I guess I'll be tearing mine apart soon to see what is wrong with it. :( I used the recommended 46 hydraulic oil and have changed it twice already. Oil is crystal clear right now. I took a pick of the check valves for reference...
used on the left, new on the right...a little bulging on the old one
(https://i.imgur.com/Q4uRQUN.jpg)
where the check valve sits...
(https://i.imgur.com/VX8obcW.jpg)
removed metal pipe for easy access...
(https://i.imgur.com/8k7fdfy.jpg)
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I have the same compressor and it failed within 2 hours of run time. Filled my buddy bottle 3 times and my 88 cu ft bottle from 1700 to 4500 once. Compressor now will not get over 500-600 psi.
My secondary piston seal looks the same as the OP's with the black residue on the piston shaft.
I have not looked at the check valves yet.
Great info shared here. Thanks !
Subscribed.
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Sounds like a pattern is starting to emerge with our vevor compressors :-[
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Check the second stage valve as well, there is two valves. The one leaving the second stage head is probably gummed up has heat damage / carbon.
I wont say anything about oil because what do I know, and people don't seem to care.
Marko
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Check the second stage valve as well, there is two valves. The one leaving the second stage head is probably gummed up has heat damage / carbon.
I wont say anything about oil because what do I know, and people don't seem to care.
Marko
Marko,
Thanks for that suggestion! I will check that tonight and report back as soon as I can.
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The problem isn't the oil, the problem is that the oil is making it past the second stage piston rings. This kind fellow used extra special super blend BAUER oil and the top blew off his compressor. I think that the single Vevor piston ring is just a bad design and use whatever expensive oil you like it won't fix it. Be sure to check page 2 ;)
http://nzairgun.com/forum/index.php?topic=2171.0 (http://nzairgun.com/forum/index.php?topic=2171.0)
Now if you'll excuse me, I have to go put some Delo 400 in my Ducati ;)
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Well I don't know but did he say no dieseling at all with new rings in the beginning?
How much earlier it would have blown with other cheap oil not intended for hpa use?
Did you notice the reason why it blew, LACK OF MAINTENANCE!
I have been trying to say that just this is the reason I recommend proper oils, and proper maintenance of your HPA equipment, had he been over the compressor shutting it off when it exploded we would probably have been reading a different story and he wouldn't have laughed!
High pressure air is no joke, I don't laugh at all if something like this happens.
I can't understand how people take it so lightly, just to save couple of bucks.
Marko
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Exactly, lack of maintenance. But lack of maintenance or our choice of lubrication isn't why our VEVOR compressors are failing us.
And nobody is taking HPA lightly we all know how dangerous it can be.
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Well, not really knowing where the second stage check valve was, I figured I'd remove the line that feeds into the block where the guage sits and the bleed valve for the high side are in. I did not find any valve with a spring like the other line had, however this line was super dirty. It also had some obstruction in the line, initially I thought it was probably a completely destroyed plastic type check valve like the other one is made from, but this obstruction was made of metal. I cleaned the ends of the line and connectors the best I could and reassembled. No good, still no pressure past 300 psi. :(
There is only one more line to remove and check, I guess I can try that one next tonight. Here are some pictures I took along the way.
the obstruction inside the metal line...
(https://i.imgur.com/V5Hskgj.jpg)
the metal piece of obstruction removed...
(https://i.imgur.com/XbdB5MQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lUd2rGT.jpg)
tried to clean off all the gunk off the connector and line as best I could...look at the rag, dirty gunk
(https://i.imgur.com/ktmZBdi.jpg)
high pressure side block outlet...cleaned it out best I could too...
(https://i.imgur.com/vjoPXhW.jpg)
this is where I thought that check valve was going to be sitting at...but nothing...cleaned this out too...
(https://i.imgur.com/4eytfI0.jpg)
I guess I'm going to need to tear down a little further to find out what's wrong with it, funny thing is, it sounds strong and no leaks that I can tell. I did notice that only one metal pipe gets hot and the other two dont anymore. I'm guessing because the pressure it not passing thru them.
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You need to take the head off, the valve is in the head. At least it should be there, a small disk type valve.
Marko
Edit: the highside check valve looks to be on top of the head, under the brass housing. Look at the picture on the previous page.
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You need to take the head off, the valve is in the head. At least it should be there, a small disk type valve.
Marko
Edit: the highside check valve looks to be on top of the head, under the brass housing. Look at the picture on the previous page.
I see the picture of it! I plan to take the head off to inspect and clean everything real good and put back together and will report back. Thanks again guys!
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I Fixed it! Up and running again after a complete tear down, a very good cleaning and the only thing that I replaced only because I had torn it down that far was the second stage little ring (comes with 2 spares when you buy the compressor), not because it looked bad, only because I just wanted to, so don't really know if that was the fix or not. Also, there is a screw with a filter of some type in the first stage block that on mine had completely fallen off and maybe was obstructing or binding something in that block and maybe that was the reason also for my compressor not making it past 300-400 psi...not really sure, but I cleaned EVERYTHING really good and assembled everything back together. Checked o-rings, cleaned carbon and oil from everywhere I could, and did an oil change while I was at it. Total tear down, taking pics along the way and reassembly was around 2 hours. I also attached my new filter that just came in from Lethalair, this thing is sweet! and I think it will help even more with the moisture trapping. Happy to report it fired right up and pressurized the filter in seconds!
underneath this silver nut is an additional screw with some type of filter that on mine had completely fallen down and into it self...
(https://i.imgur.com/dUY4pwL.jpg)
here is the screw and filter inside...
(https://i.imgur.com/fBg2HM1.jpg)
I'm thinking this might have been my problem...screwed them back into each other and cleaned out that block...
(https://i.imgur.com/o8OOqBU.jpg)
reassembled and cleaned...
(https://i.imgur.com/cgbKbKi.jpg)
started to take off the top part of the head...a little carbon and very little oil...cleaned it up really well and checked that o-ring, looked good and reused it...
(https://i.imgur.com/xOW8uC7.jpg)
cleaned up...
(https://i.imgur.com/wSEnD8p.jpg)
next part to come off revealing the shaft and second stage ring...cleaned everything really well...
(https://i.imgur.com/QnsyQMp.jpg)
a view of the bore and shaft before I pulled everything off to give it a good cleaning...
(https://i.imgur.com/HlM3W0O.jpg)
second stage ring looked good and not deformed or warned out yet...but I still changed it since I was in there already...the compressor comes with two spares...I did noticed when I took the old one off that there was some type of loctite on the threads, so I applied some blue loctite on the new installed ring...
(https://i.imgur.com/e2J4d7q.jpg)
digging down a little further...
(https://i.imgur.com/Mi41D6V.jpg)
oil was a little dirty...but no metal shavings of any type...
(https://i.imgur.com/MWkPqbp.jpg)
pulled out the piston and gave it a good cleaning and re-aligned the rings spacing them out evenly so the openings where not in the same position to each other...
(https://i.imgur.com/mFAYkCC.jpg)
cleaned out the bore and lightly re-lubed it...
(https://i.imgur.com/rMnUAbk.jpg)
first stage rings look good...
(https://i.imgur.com/5EoExks.jpg)
this is the second stage ring and the only thing I changed, old on left, new on the right, I saved the old since it looked good to me still...
(https://i.imgur.com/LFUihJu.jpg)
applied blue locktite to the threads...
(https://i.imgur.com/O7jqQfl.jpg)
piston and bore all cleaned and ready to be reinstalled...
(https://i.imgur.com/FeVTlOl.jpg)
all the bits and parts that I thouroghly cleaned up...
(https://i.imgur.com/uU6hccG.jpg)
All done and with new filter mounted to the side...
(https://i.imgur.com/uHLicUi.jpg)
up and running again!...all in all, very easy to tear down and clean and replace any part...
(https://i.imgur.com/bIVQ0W5.jpg)
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Good job guys....
Great pics and descriptions with awesome results.. Ya'll undoubtedly did things that they didn't take the time to do from the factory given the rate that these things flooded the market.
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Glads to see you got it running again Jimmy! Mine didn't come with any spare rings, only spare tampons and that check valve. Too bad there isn't a complete rebuild kit for sale somewhere....
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For anyone interested, I got the manual for these compressors from the vendor on eBay. From looking at the manual, it appears that the fix for not building up pressure is to clean the second stage check valve located at the top of the head of the compressor, very easy to get to and clean out real quick. I tried to post the PDF file of the manual, but it will not upload. You can send me a PM and I'll email it to you.
Additionally, it tells you how to properly start these little compressors up. BOTH bleed valves have to be open, prior to turning on the machine. Then turn it on, close the bleed valves and start filling.
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I wonder if thats what fixed our compressors Jimmy. basically the fact that we took em apart, cleaned and re-assembled. When I took mine apart the only thing I changed was that check valve so I assumed that is what fixed it but maybe it was the other check valve? Also used mine many times since then and it has been working fine though I am worried about blow by with my second stage piston ring fitting so loose. Waiting to hear back from Lethalprecision to hopefully buy a pile of them ;)
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Thanks for the manual Jimmy! Huh, I didn't even know there was a check valve under the burst disk?!?! Good to know!
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Yeah, I really think the cleanup job is what fixed our compressors. The second stage check valve sits right under the blow disk. Very easy to take out and clean. Let me know if you do get spares from Lethalairprecion..either way, looks like something that can easily be 3D printed. ;)
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I've also emailed vendors on Aliexpress that sell the same complete head assembly for our compressors and they all asked me the same thing "Is it yong heng brand?"
"No it is NOT YONG HENG brand, it is the brand of this head assembly that YOU advertise for sale in YOUR online store!!!" Whatever you call it do you have ANY SPARE PISTON RINGS?!?!?!?!?!?
And then they say that sorry, they only sell yong heng brand lol
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If anybody finds some of these second stage rings for sale I will gladly part with some of my hard earned cash for a few lol. An adventure to say the least, looking for parts for these things.
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I've also emailed vendors on Aliexpress that sell the same complete head assembly for our compressors and they all asked me the same thing "Is it yong heng brand?"
"No it is NOT YONG HENG brand, it is the brand of this head assembly that YOU advertise for sale in YOUR online store!!!" Whatever you call it do you have ANY SPARE PISTON RINGS?!?!?!?!?!?
And then they say that sorry, they only sell yong heng brand lol
Maybe, just say yes, and see what they send you? LOL...I'm going to make a stencil and spray paint "Yong Heng" on mine and send them a pic LOL...maybe that will do the trick! ;D :D
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Haha thats a good idea.
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Here's the manual in pics. Just click to enlarge, and print it out for yourself.
Thanks to Jimmy for the file!
(http://i64.tinypic.com/24ytp4w.png)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/jpudr5.png)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/ftqc7q.png)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/n5htsm.png)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/xm90fa.png)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2mdp7df.png)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2iuaz2g.png)
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Nice work Dinh!
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Nice work Dinh!
:D
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I think the best luck you will have with getting a new second stage ring is from mylond air.. their main website goes up and down but here is one.. http//mylond.en.hisupplier.com/product-list3.html might be best to find someone from there to skype with or whatsapp
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Thank you Dinh! I guess I don't have a mystery compressor after all...
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Found this link online...should be helpful for future fixes...
http://zypcppump.com/what-i-need-to-do-when-the-pcp-compressor-can-not-filling/ (http://zypcppump.com/what-i-need-to-do-when-the-pcp-compressor-can-not-filling/)
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Great thread and I appreciate all of the useful info. I "accidentally" bought the vevor instead of the yong heng and have had build up issues.
I ran through all of the trouble shooting which includes:
A) soap water check for external leaks
B) burst disk check
C) conical/rubber check valve inside of the 2nd stage line and fitting. Replaced
D) removed all lines, cleaned and checked for obstructions
E) replaced the oring and checked/cleaned the parts between both cylinders (requires hex fasteners removal)
I attempted to replace the top piston seal as there seemed to be excessive play (diametrical), but I managed to strip the Phillip's head screws and its locked tight. This could be the cause of the issue preventing pressure build past 300psi or so.
So question to all:
Any other ideas on things to look for?
At only $200, should I buy another Vevor and have this for spares?
At another $200 should I buy a legit Yong Heng or other off brand chinese?
Thoughts? Appreciate the information on this.
Thanks!
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Perhaps an additional question are for spare parts... know any sources that has spare parts, namely a piston assembly?
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Mine should be here Thursday. Should I refuse shipment and just get the YH?
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Great thread and I appreciate all of the useful info. I "accidentally" bought the vevor instead of the yong heng and have had build up issues.
I ran through all of the trouble shooting which includes:
A) soap water check for external leaks
B) burst disk check
C) conical/rubber check valve inside of the 2nd stage line and fitting. Replaced
D) removed all lines, cleaned and checked for obstructions
E) replaced the oring and checked/cleaned the parts between both cylinders (requires hex fasteners removal)
I attempted to replace the top piston seal as there seemed to be excessive play (diametrical), but I managed to strip the Phillip's head screws and its locked tight. This could be the cause of the issue preventing pressure build past 300psi or so.
So question to all:
Any other ideas on things to look for?
At only $200, should I buy another Vevor and have this for spares?
At another $200 should I buy a legit Yong Heng or other off brand chinese?
Thoughts? Appreciate the information on this.
Thanks!
Sounds like you got a real lemon, bummer. I'd at least wait and see if Travis of JSAR comes through with
His After market piston seals. Without them, I would not even entertain getting another one. IMO 😁
Im still getting up to speed with these compressors but it seems like YH has better support for spare parts and without them, what good is anything?
If I could do it over, Id just pay the difference and get a YH.
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Requested a return, even before it is scheduled to be delivered Thursday, and I will be at home when my UPS guy brings it. He shoots an R9 and is cool, so I should have not problem refusing delivery.
All I need now is a link to the best Yong Heng on AliExpress so I can order it. Which one? Buy once, cry one.
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Requested a return, even before it is scheduled to be delivered Thursday, and I will be at home when my UPS guy brings it. He shoots an R9 and is cool, so I should have not problem refusing delivery.
All I need now is a link to the best Yong Heng on AliExpress so I can order it. Which one? Buy once, cry one.
Your killing me! ;D
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Great thread and I appreciate all of the useful info. I "accidentally" bought the vevor instead of the yong heng and have had build up issues.
I ran through all of the trouble shooting which includes:
A) soap water check for external leaks
B) burst disk check
C) conical/rubber check valve inside of the 2nd stage line and fitting. Replaced
D) removed all lines, cleaned and checked for obstructions
E) replaced the oring and checked/cleaned the parts between both cylinders (requires hex fasteners removal)
I attempted to replace the top piston seal as there seemed to be excessive play (diametrical), but I managed to strip the Phillip's head screws and its locked tight. This could be the cause of the issue preventing pressure build past 300psi or so.
So question to all:
Any other ideas on things to look for?
At only $200, should I buy another Vevor and have this for spares?
At another $200 should I buy a legit Yong Heng or other off brand chinese?
Thoughts? Appreciate the information on this.
Thanks!
Plug the line to test. A Foster plug comes in the kit with the Vevor that I bought.
If it reaches that 300psi very quickly (couple seconds), it could be the seal on the screw that you stripped.
If it is pumping up very slowly, and only reaches 300 psi or so, re-check (C) the conical/rubber check valve. Make sure is actually sealing. And make sure the spring is not broken.
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Scotchmo, I think you hit it right on. It's hard to register 300 psi being so small relative to rated capability. But I would judge that it does come to pressure quickly.
These things are dangerous, equally for the dangerous pressures, but the temptation of such a simple machineat such a low cost. Being able to purchase 3 at the price of 1 perhaps higher quality build almost makes the risk worthwhile. The likely failure modes being mostly repairable.
I'll play around withit more and see if I can finagle a solution.
I also didn't check the main piston things and I'll do that as well.
I may also consider a different head style which was the original post.
Thanks again!
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One side note worth mentioning relating to the reliability was my original issue was a motor startup issue likely related to test oil residue in the upper chambers. I gave them a 1 star on Ebay willing to increase based on some technical assistance.
Instead the ebay seller offered 5% refund for the other 4 stars without answering my support question. That included a sob story of how they are a start up trying to sell product
I checked and they renewed their account under a different seller and have over 95% on less than 10 ratings... not sure how the math works.
I fully am aware of buyer risk, but is interesting how this game is played on that market.
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Just an update:
Determined the low pressure issue (this time) was in fact the 2nd stage piston seal that comes with 2 replacements. Had a bugger of a time getting that phillips screw off... since I already damaged the Phillip's slot I ended up tearing the worn seal off and taking some vice grips for the added torque. With all of the loctite they used I should have torched it beforehand. Odd they used heavy handed loctite for an intended serviceable joint. The amount of torque I applied nearly sheared the screw off, but managed to come loose.
Once put back together to test, the seal is extremely tight that the motor wouldn't start initially. So I had to hand crank the drive motor until it worked itself into the bore a few cycles. Then it ran like a champ and built pressure faster than when I first received it. I now have several leaks at several joints, but minor and tightened them enough to start filling my empty cylinder.
All the answers for my issue were within this thread and thanks again for the second opinions. Saved me from spending for another compressor although I don't see this one lasting very long. I don't use a lot of air so I'm not complaining. Appreciate the help.
Again it's a simple machine with most of the failure modes fixable for most willing to spend the time. Let's hope I can hobble this latest fix for a longer period of time before the thing breaks again. Hopefully by then there will be more spare parts around.
Thanks again. Shoot me a note of there are any others needing some pointers on this compressor. But seems there's a few out there already with s solid knowledge base not just for this head design, but also for the YH and the Tux.
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Requested a return, even before it is scheduled to be delivered Thursday, and I will be at home when my UPS guy brings it. He shoots an R9 and is cool, so I should have not problem refusing delivery.
All I need now is a link to the best Yong Heng on AliExpress so I can order it. Which one? Buy once, cry one.
Why don't you ask the UPS guy if he wants to buy a cheap compressor, maybe he is looking to come over to the darkside. :D 8)
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Just an update:
Determined the low pressure issue (this time) was in fact the 2nd stage piston seal that comes with 2 replacements. Had a bugger of a time getting that phillips screw off... since I already damaged the Phillip's slot I ended up tearing the worn seal off and taking some vice grips for the added torque. With all of the loctite they used I should have torched it beforehand. Odd they used heavy handed loctite for an intended serviceable joint. The amount of torque I applied nearly sheared the screw off, but managed to come loose.
Once put back together to test, the seal is extremely tight that the motor wouldn't start initially. So I had to hand crank the drive motor until it worked itself into the bore a few cycles. Then it ran like a champ and built pressure faster than when I first received it. I now have several leaks at several joints, but minor and tightened them enough to start filling my empty cylinder.
All the answers for my issue were within this thread and thanks again for the second opinions. Saved me from spending for another compressor although I don't see this one lasting very long. I don't use a lot of air so I'm not complaining. Appreciate the help.
Again it's a simple machine with most of the failure modes fixable for most willing to spend the time. Let's hope I can hobble this latest fix for a longer period of time before the thing breaks again. Hopefully by then there will be more spare parts around.
Thanks again. Shoot me a note of there are any others needing some pointers on this compressor. But seems there's a few out there already with s solid knowledge base not just for this head design, but also for the YH and the Tux.
Now that you have that stripped screw replaced, the next time will be easier. And I don't think that it is necessary to remove the upper cylinder to do so. Remove just the upper head. Rotate the fan until it is at top dead center. Remove the retaining screw and use a pick to pull the seal out. When you install the new seal, if you tighten the screw as tight as possible, the pump may be very difficult to turn. Tightening the screw expands the seal somewhat. Backing off on the screw a little bit lets the pump turn over easier. Test by rotating with the motor fan blade. You could use some low strength loc-tite if you are worried about the screw loosening up.
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I recently had my compressor apart after I had previously removed the screw and seal and the screw on mine was just starting to loosen itself. I would recommend using loctite even though it might make it difficult to remove (use a little heat) at least it prevents the screw from falling out and causing havoc on your top end ;)
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Due to the heat produced you may want to select a high temp loctite.
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Well I ordered one earlier this week. It will most likely be a Vevor compressor. I plan to disassemble it Deburr everything clean &
put back to gather. Then break it in with no pressure for 30 min. Now when I get into it I,m going to see what you guys have talked
about. I,m a retired tool & die maker with a small machine shop be side my house. I,m new to pcp air gun & these compressors. But
after looking at these, I might able to make some of these plastic parts. I think this thread should be made a sticky on the form.
I have read this whole thread & leaned a bunch not even having one yet. I will let you guys know when I get mine & see if there is any
thing I could make that can't be bought. I,m in NO WAY trying to get back into business making parts. That why I,m retired. But if I can
help some of you I will.
Fly ;)
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Well I ordered one earlier this week. It will most likely be a Vevor compressor. I plan to disassemble it Deburr everything clean &
put back to gather. Then break it in with no pressure for 30 min. Now when I get into it I,m going to see what you guys have talked
about. I,m a retired tool & die maker with a small machine shop be side my house. I,m new to pcp air gun & these compressors. But
after looking at these, I might able to make some of these plastic parts. I think this thread should be made a sticky on the form.
I have read this whole thread & leaned a bunch not even having one yet. I will let you guys know when I get mine & see if there is any
thing I could make that can't be bought. I,m in NO WAY trying to get back into business making parts. That why I,m retired. But if I can
help some of you I will.
Fly ;)
Excellent!
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Just an aside tip-when you have a screw set with loctite in a small space a soldering iron on the screw will usually loosen it effectively.
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Just an aside tip-when you have a screw set with loctite in a small space a soldering iron on the screw will usually loosen it effectively.
Excellent tip!
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Well after my ordeal with mine I did take the head off & looked at the sec stage seal. I can make some up, & it looks to be made
out of Delrin plastic. I will look into buying some Monday. I will get back to you guys. But still keep your eyes out for a part source.
The sec stage seal is the same dia as the YH that dia was posted. I bet that piston & seal would work in these. I did mic the OD of
my seal while I had the head off but did not take it off the piston. I was just trying to get mine running.
These compressors really look very good over all. I bet we will have them figured out soon with all the info being shared.
Fly ;)
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I doubt it very much of being delrin, if so its a c.rappy design. Should be graphite infused teflon.
Marko
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Can't complain as these chinese clones are getting high pressure air more available to pcp'ers that are hesitant to enter the market... good for the sport.
That said, I've been in the industry where these chinese companies don't quite reverse engineer, but flat out copy designs to a cheaper version. The design specs are usually missed and these issues pop up as a result. Using delrin as a high pressure seal is one example. There are others associated with the various failures in the threads.
Can't beat the cost for a low quality pump nevertheless. Superior from that point of view.
As an aside, the solder iron tip to loosen the loctite is a fantastic idea!
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I agree with MJP, these high pressure seals are not made with straight delrin. If you think our current high pressure seals already rapidly degrade, a straight delrin replacement is going to break apart in 1/4 to 1/2 the time.
Jefferson State Air Rifles / oldpro has been looking into making replacement seals and I think he's using a polymer that's either carbon or graphite impregnated...I can't remember exactly what it was from a old post.
The diameter of the second stage piston is the same across the Yong Heng and all of the other single cylinder clones, but there's at least 3 different styles of seals. My YH head uses a 2-piece seal with a green inner Oring, around a polymer outer ring. My Vevor head uses a 1-piece conical seal attached with a screw at the end of piston assembly. The 3rd style that comes to mind is a 2-piece seal that is split into 2 halves that make a circle when they are attached. It's pretty easy to get replacement seals if you need any of the 2-piece designs via AliExpress, but it's that 1 piece conical design that's currently hard to source. Hopefully oldpro pulls through soon with his work though.
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I've seen pictures of a YH labelled compressor that had 3 individual split rings for the high pressure piston and another that had 4 individual rings. Seems these pictures were linked off the Facebook PCP Compressors group page but I can't find it now so I may be mistaken. Apparently there are several styles of seal for the high pressure piston, from the Vevor cup style to those noted above to the YH ring style I saw. The rebuild I saw showed the gentleman removing the rings and they were quite flexible, almost rubbery. Would graphite impregnated Teflon (or any other material) be that flexible?
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This tread is so funny. I try & help some & everyone is now a exspert on plastics. I worked with plastics for 22 years running
a R&D proto type machine shop machining & injection molding plastic parts for a Dutch medical manufactor. I,m pulling my
offer, sorry.
Fly ;)
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What offer? I'm confused.
Have been making high pressure seals, valves and what not for one big gas comppany, but what do I know.
You can keep your thread.
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What offer? I'm confused.
Have been making high pressure seals, valves and what not for one big gas comppany, but what do I know.
You can keep your thread.
By reading your past post, from other threads you know more than the rest of us for sure. I did not come to this form to argue with
anyone. I,m always welcome to discussion but nothing productive in argument. I,m new to air guns & here to learn, & I,m not a guy
that subscribes to mine is bigger than yours argumentative discussions ether. So lets just leave it be at that.
Fly ;)
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They are using bronze infused PTFE no doubt about it. Ive been attempting to find a better solution but the compressor has very poor oiling and high heat loads due to the RPM and pressure. I havent been very successful improving the design so far but Im working on it. The RPM is so high that its hard to keep the seals from wearing really fast and like I said very poor lubrication. This has been a challenge. https://www.fluorotec.com/materials/ptfe/bronze-filled-ptfe/ (https://www.fluorotec.com/materials/ptfe/bronze-filled-ptfe/)
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Well before I ordered this compressor, I had started on a motorized hand pump using a variable speed motor. I may just finish
that & junk this thing. I should have never invested in PCP air rifles & stuck with my other guns.
Fly
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If I do get anything before the snow flies I'm seriously thinking about the shoebox, yes they cost more, yes you need to run them from a shop compressor but they're pretty much time proven. They may be slow but they do get the job done. Oh they're totally rebuild capable too, from what I've seen they flat out work and keep working with very little TLC.
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If I do get anything before the snow flies I'm seriously thinking about the shoebox, yes they cost more, yes you need to run them from a shop compressor but they're pretty much time proven. They may be slow but they do get the job done. Oh they're totally rebuild capable too, from what I've seen they flat out work and keep working with very little TLC.
Wayne if your going that route consider this instead http://www.altaros.cz/en/other-accessories/48-altaros-compressor-booster-unit (http://www.altaros.cz/en/other-accessories/48-altaros-compressor-booster-unit)
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Ole Pro. What in that black wire with a probe that plugs in to the head on these compressors? Is it a temp probe that controls something?
Fly
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It's just a temp probe for the lcd readout.
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Thanks I thought it might be. It was hanging out when I got it. When I ran the compressor it was not showing it was rising
in temp much. I guess that's why. But I keep feeling the head & it was just warm, though I have not run it under much load yet.
Fly
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OK, I looked at my new yung heng 220 volt model, and the plug is NOT a 110 plug. Both of the flat prongs are at an angle.
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Great now lets start it up, open the valves & break it in. ::)
Fly
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I got the same Yong Heng clone too. I went with it cause it was cheaper plus has an auto shut off. The Yong Heng auto shut off is 220v, I wanted the 110, so that's why I went with the clone. anyhow, I took my apart to clean and now it's leaking from the SS pipes. I took them off, tight them back and still leaking air. Could go over 1000 psi. no matter what I tried leaking air. Anyone know if the Yong Heng style head will fit on this vevor clone? Thinking nof either just replacing the whole head assembly. But don't want to drop $69 if it doesn't fit. Anyone have this vevor compressor that install the Yong Heng head on? All the SS pipes are different so not sure will line up.
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Leaking from the pipe and flange nut? Check if there are scratches on the conical nipple.
If there are you could chuck it on a drill chuck if you have large enough, and use a fine file to smoothen the cone while rotating it in the drill.
Kind of like a miniature lathe.
Marko
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Tweeter, I JUST finished converting my Vevor compressor with the Yong Heng head over the weekend. I haven't had the time yet to fill up a tank, but on quick initial test, everything works. You're correct, the bottom end (crankcase and mounting points) are the exact same on the Vevor and Yong Heng. It cost me $150 for all the conversion pieces.
I've been meaning to write up a post on my experiences, but life keeps getting in the way. When I got my Vevor, I had oil coming out of every fitting, hose, etc, and I did a full tear down before running it. What I found wasn't pretty...the metal castings are really rough with tons of slag left on it. The mfg then paints over the slag with silver paint, assembles the compressor and runs the compressor to "break it in". My compressor had metal shavings/slag everywhere...all the way up to the second stage. Just doing oil changes won't get all the crud out, you have to go through piece by piece to clean things out. There is a rubber screen/gasket thats right behind the crankcase cover, and it will prevent metal shavings from draining out with the oil when you do a oil change. The metal shavings like to get stuck to the rubber screen and stay inside the machine instead of getting drained out.
My recommendation to you is to tear it all down, and clean it out. In my case, I had metal debris sitting in the crank, piston ringlands, and second stage compression orings. If I had to take a guess, I'd say that you probably have a damaged oring in the second stage. If that's the case, it's a easy fix and I think they included some spare orings with the Vevor originally. Finding parts for these compressors is an adventure. The search engine on AliExpress is garbage (and parts aren't sold on ebay). The most effective method I've found is to have a picture of whatever part you need, and then message sellers on AliExpress asking them if they can sell the part. You might get lucky and they'll already have a product link to send you, or (like in my case) you'll have to wait for them to create a new item listing so you can purchase it. If you can identify the parts you need, I might be able to help you source them as well.
Hey, you said the Yong Heng head Fit on the vevor. But both left and right block have different holes. Do I need to replace the block too? Or will the head assembly fit on vevor with stock blocks? Cause the Yong Heng head doesn't come with both left and right block.
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Leaking from the pipe and flange nut? Check if there are scratches on the conical nipple.
If there are you could chuck it on a drill chuck if you have large enough, and use a fine file to smoothen the cone while rotating it in the drill.
Kind of like a miniature lathe.
Marko
It leaks right on the nut with the cone shape inside. When I got it everything is good, but after took apart to clean, it leaks. Hard to get inside the cone to file cause the nut won't push back far enough since it got caught at the angel of the SS tubing. I was able to use taflon tape to wrap around the threads and then screw in the nut. Seem to hold for now. Jw, if anyone know if the Yong Heng head fit on the vevor let me know. I plan to buy the Yong Heng head if it fit.