GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Benjamin Airguns => Topic started by: PA1911 on August 16, 2010, 02:18:39 AM
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Hello everyone,
I have decided to start gathering knowledge and materials needed to tune my XL1500. I have been PMing some of you and you have all been very helpful. I want to post here to get as many ideas/opinions as possible.
So far i think I understand the deburring process pretty well, seems that if its sharp, knock the edge off. Except the trigger sear area.
It seems it would be easier to remove the barrel when deburring so its easier to flush the tube out, is this what you all do?
I have been told that the seal to use is Maccari's Walther Talon/Hunter is this correct?
I am also a little confused on lubes and where they go. I know I need moly and possibly silicone for the compression chamber but Im not sure on what lube goes where.
What about the trigger assembly, is it better to leave it alone? When I first installed the GRT-III trigger, I accidentally started to remove the pin in front of the pivot pin. I had one heck of a time getting it back in as the slot for the e-clip kept getting caught on a spring in there. This makes me a bit leery of a trigger teardown.
What do you all think?
I dont really know what else to ask. Just want to prepare myself.
Thanks again to those of you have answered my PM's. I look forward to all the help I can get.
PA1911
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You got the right seal Shawn order it from Jm's an get you some moly with it from him also. I'm sure the group here will talk you thru the other stuff you will need too do, an you will sure get alot of info an idea's from this GREAT gathering of Guy's, as there is ALOT more than just deburring you will want to do for her to turn her into a great shooter!!! But yeah take the barrel off an while it's sitting there make you some brass bushing to replace the plastic,or if you don't want to do that let me know I'll send you some fresh factory one's I have setting around I don't need for your first home tune Bro....GOOD LUCK AN I HOPE IT TURN'S OUT GREAT FOR YA!!!
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Jay said it all, The info is all here, if you can't find it, just ask!
pv
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um first and formost you HAVE to build yourself a spring compressor!!! you cannot tear into a springer without one! then go into the library and read some of the guides on tuning the b18-19 and fastdeer rifles... they are not the same gun but the basic principles are the same... then when you have that memorized and have a good idea of what to expect... read it again.... plus there are some good tips on using some pop cans to make a funnel to get your seal back into the back of that threaded beast without tearing up your new seal.... and then finaly... remember when your putting things back together... enough lube is just that and more lube is NOT better.... and thats something you just kinda get a feel for....
And yea I find it easier to remove the barrel.... easier to flush out the action and less worries of bumping the thing around when working on it
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I had heard that a spring compressor wasn't needed for the XL rifles. Somebody mentioned that the pressure was off of the ram when the end cap was unscewed four or five turns.
I just wanted to clarify if this is true
Thanks
PA1911
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Your right Shawn,NO compressor needed on your XL, you saw several tip's on un-screwing it on here already, I used ezman's(Dave) needlenose plyer's tip.
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Nwevermind its gas rammed for some reason I was thinking spring powered trail.... dunno why
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Nwevermind its gas rammed for some reason I was thinking spring powered trail.... dunno why
Maybe you were thinking about the Superstreak which is spring powered? You may have seen the posts where a couple of guys have recently converted theirs to gas ram powered.
The Trail NPXL, having a larger diameter seal/piston than the Trail NP, is based on and uses the same Wather Talon Hunter seal as the spring powered Superstreak does.
But both the Trail NP and the Trail NPXL are gas ram powered.
And yes, the Trail NPXL does not need a spring compresser (however, the Trail NP does). Just unscrew the XL's end cap a few turns and all the preload will be off the ram - then finish unscrewing the cap and slide the guts out.
The Trail NP has a bolt and cross pin-retained rear spring block similar to what many coil spring guns have, so using a spring compresser is a must !!!
Paul.
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Shawn, you're collecting some good stuff here and it should be a great help to you and others wanting to home tune/lube/repair their XL's. I would just add a few things. I believe I either replied to your pm or hopefully posted it, but pay attention to the trigger assembly when you remove it. The sear is spring loaded and when you start taking the innards out and pulling the trigger group, the sear will drop down into the slot. You will need to lift it back up and over the slot when removing or re-installing. If you are not removing the trigger group when you pull the RAM & piston, use either a toothpick or small jewlers screwdriver to lift the sear and lock it in place until you get all of the internals back in place.
Yes, do remember the soda can trick for inserting the seal.
Also, don't forget the chat room when you start to do any work and run into anything questionable or need an additional set of eyes. Some of us are in the chat room all the time (MichaelM). :)
It's a nice option to have available if you run into a problem or question.
Good luck.
Dave
8)
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Good points Dave !
Paul.
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I too will probably tackle the Tune the NPXL in the near future. It would be nice to have a tutorial on How To. Written like Tuning for Dummies. With Pictures. With suggested parts. Just for Nitro Piston XL 1100/1500. A permanant sticky in the library would be great. Or sticky at the top of the forum. I'm sure all the information is here. just finding and putting it all together takes effort.
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Well Now High Noon.......... Seems that you've come up with a great project for your "Buddy-Do List" this weekend. :D :D :D
Thanks-so-much!
pv
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I would do better by assigning this task, not doing it. If you thought you was lost before I started. I guarantee you'd be lost when I finish. ;D