GTA
Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2 and springers ,rams => Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2 => Topic started by: krrtlr1 on April 12, 2018, 11:13:31 PM
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Have an older unit that I am looking to upgrade. It gas chain drive and longer cylinder that stick thru the feed bar. Would like to add the fan and pressure switch. Will also upgrade to the silent belt at some point.
Will be adding the limit switch directly to the air block.
I am a toolmaker by trade so don't have any issues with the mechanical side but looking for any tips and how too''s to hook up the electrical.
Found this for my switch but not sure if it is the correct
NASON Pressure Switch 4500psi! ADJUSTABLE #6ORB CD-11B7-2500J/WD
Thank for any and all help!
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Tracy,
I have attached a picture of the pressure switch on my upgraded Max.
Taso
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Here is the switch I use: https://www.mcmaster.com/#3427k83/=1ce5imz (https://www.mcmaster.com/#3427k83/=1ce5imz) I believe it is the same as what Norm used in Taso's SB.
Also believe it is the same that Tom uses in the Freedom. (I looked at the latest Freedoms, and it is a different pressure switch.) From what you posted, looks like you can get similar specs with the right model.
See picture of my plumbing below. I plumbed it that was so I didn't have to take the SB completely apart, to drill and tap a hole for the pressure switch. I also didn't trust my taping capabilities as it comes to being safe at 4500psi. I only had to remove the HP line from the block. The drawback to this, is the cover does not fit. I didn't run with it on anyway. Easier to lube and it stays cooler.
The switch above, technically should use a relay for the 1/3 HP motor, but I have been running mine direct. I did buy a relay, and someday I will install, but does require some wiring changes. The SB max is wired a bit "funky". Switch is on the neutral side and some of the wires are short and soldered direct to terminals. Again, it was a choice of doing the way I did, or taking it significantly apart.
As far as a fan, I wouldn't bother with the small fan that is mounted to back of unit. Run with the cover off and small house fan blowing across/along the cylinders. That will cool better than the muffin fan. It is also nice that the external fan keeps cooling after the unit shuts off, when the cylinders heat soak.
FWIW: I also run mine on a GFI and 1 hour timer.
PS: If yours is a 3Kpsi Max, you will need to change the burst disk, assuming you plan to fill SCBA bottles.
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Might be further ahead getting the F-10 at the new reduced price ?
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Might be further ahead getting the F-10 at the new reduced price ?
Definitely worth weighing the option. A pressure switch and fittings add up quickly. The older chain drives are rather noisy and upgrading to belt drive and hardened pistons, you start to get close to the cost of a new freedom. Maybe use the max "as is" for a little while, sell, and get freedom. I certainly got more into my max that what a new freedom costs right now.
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Thank you for all the replies.
I have an earlier 4500 psi. It appears to have the 6in lower rod due to the clacker unit. If I can figure out the pressure switch I will upgrade the lower rod to the 10 inch using hardened pins and make a new rear guide rod. I think that will help with alignment.
I have seen posts about the belt size but haven't been able to locate it again. Seems the number was a 210 or 230XL037. Does anyone have the diameters on the pulleys for the F10 model?
My costs for upgrades will be very minimal. What I don't buy I will make.
Thanks again.
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I would be reluctant to use F10 ratio pulleys on one of the original Shoebox units, but I do think it could be robustly done to one of the later units like the Shoebox Max.
Tom has said that the biggest factor in the upgrade from the F8 to the F10 was managing all the added heat from the extra work. Those early units also had an earlier design of the cylinders - if you look closely, you will notice that there are no cooling slots on them while the cylinders on the Max units look the same as on the F10.
I expect you could add them yourself as you make the other modifications, but I certainly would want somebody else reading this thinking they could just do a parts swap and be good with the results to know about that difference.