GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Machine Shop Talk & AG Parts Machining => Topic started by: Geronimo on March 27, 2018, 10:18:20 AM
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I have been using a spinning style plumbing pipe cutter to cut tubing but it requires sanding after the cut to have smooth edges no matter how new or sharp the wheel is. Is there a better way? I haven’t tried anything else for fear of causing the fibers to separate. As always any help and input is appreciated.
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I wrap the tube with masking tape centered over the spot I wish to cut. I then use a tile saw to make the cut.
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I believe wall thickness would be a factor also. Wrapping the area with tape is good and a very fine tooth saw blade. A miter box to get a nice square cut would help also.
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Stone or reinforced CUT OFF DISCS. Any miens of sawing or crush / shearing will splinter it !!!
JMO tho ...
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I should clarify tile saw. I'm referring to the wet cut power type. The blade I use is a continuous rim diamond blade.
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I should clarify tile saw. I'm referring to the wet cut power type. The blade I use is a continuous rim diamond blade.
Yes those work, but have found LARGER the wheel and more aggressive the grinding grit, worse becomes the vibration and chatter that happens while cutting ... Go SLOW and hold tube firmly so it does not vibrate or humm when being cut..
JM feelings tho ...
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I just use a band saw, and then sand the end afterwards to eliminate any splinters.... but that method may not be the best if the tubing is extremely thin wall (1 mm or less), unless the blade pitch is smaller than the thickness.... As with any thin material, you want more than one blade tooth within the thickness of the material so that it doesn't grab.... Do be careful of the splinters, they are the NASTIEST slivers you will ever encounter.... and it's a good idea to wear a dust mask to avoid inhaling them....
Bob
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I just use a band saw, and then sand the end afterwards to eliminate any splinters.... but that method may not be the best if the tubing is extremely thin wall (1 mm or less), unless the blade pitch is smaller than the thickness.... As with any thin material, you want more than one blade tooth within the thickness of the material so that it doesn't grab.... Do be careful of the splinters, they are the NASTIEST slivers you will ever encounter.... and it's a good idea to wear a dust mask to avoid inhaling them....
Bob
Sparks and all !! .... man does cutting with a bandsaw blade WIPE IT OUT in short order !
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cutoff wheel on a chop saw.. like bob mentioned , the dust is deadly.. then a sand on both ends..
this little guy works wonders and with proper alignment , you can cut perfect ends
https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-55-Amp-Cut-Off-Saw-61204.html (https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-55-Amp-Cut-Off-Saw-61204.html)
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Scott, been doing it for decades in my previous model yacht business (masts & keels).... not as hard on a blade as steel, by any means.... never seen a spark.... that's my experience anyways....
Bob
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Compound Miter saw with an abrasive blade.
Proper PPE and a good vacuum while doing it slow works for me.
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I put tape on to prevent scratching, chuck it up in a lathe on slow speed and use a Dremel with a thin cutoff blade. Then use the boring tool to clean the cut end up if needed.
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Wow thanks for all of the input and help guys! I really appreciate it and now feel more confident in completing this task with your help. My way was obviously NOT working well. I should start asking these questions FIRST before going forward with my own ideas. Would definitely cut down on my material costs and scrap pile lol. Thanks again!
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Wasted LOTS of material and money "learning" different things. Also be VERY careful of carbon fiber splinters. They HURT and are hard to get out. Believe me, I know.
:o
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Also be VERY careful of carbon fiber splinters. They HURT and are hard to get out. Believe me, I know.
:o
Thus my PPE statement.
(Personal Protective Equipment)
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I wet cut using a Diamond Lapidary ring saw usually used for small rock cutting and shaping (left over from my gem cutting and faceting days http://www.gemcutters.org (http://www.gemcutters.org) ).
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Ring saws are killer!! I been wanting one for a few years!
Been eyeballing the Taurus 3 Ring Saw.
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I put tape on to prevent scratching, chuck it up in a lathe on slow speed and use a Dremel with a thin cutoff blade. Then use the boring tool to clean the cut end up if needed.
That’s how I do it as well and never splinters.
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Ring saws are killer!! I been wanting one for a few years!
Been eyeballing the Taurus 3 Ring Saw.
Yep that is the one. A VERY nice saw.
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I mostly lurk in this part of the forum, but I've got some experience cutting CF. I always do it with running water. Rigged up a small aquarium pump with water slowly pounring out of a 5-gallon bucket, cost less than $15 for the pump and some tubing. I've used a simple hacksaw after taping where I'm going to cut then V-block it. The blade is one of the round ones for cutting tile by hand, very fine grit diamond-dust blade, cuts slow but perfect and the water flow prevents dust and minimizes splinters.
I also wear butyl-rubber mechanics gloves, as I (like everybody else) will state flat out that carbon fiber splinters are dreadful. The only "easy" way to get them out is digging with a scalpel blade and then using jeweler's tweezer...
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I have cut many carbon fiber arrows to length using a high speed cut off saw with a abrasive cut off wheel. Nasty dust, but does a great job. Splinters are a REAL pain in the bxxt. Don't get them!!
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Depending on what it's for, you might want to check with highly experienced bicycle-shop mechanics. (There are too many non-expert ones who think they're experts.) I mention the bicycle business because cutting the excess length off a carbon-fiber fork steering tube is common when fitting a new fork to a frame, and if it's not done right, it can result in a bad crash later, IIRC. (I doubt you're shortening a CF compressed-air bottle LOL, so perhaps the safety issue is nearly non-existent. I thought I should mention it anyway though.)
Carbon-fiber bike frames and forks don't fatigue like the metals do, so they're generally a lot more durable; but there are certain things you do have to be careful of. The same goes for carbon-fiber handlebars. I've known of plenty of aluminum ones broken from fatigue (and it nearly always resulted in a nasty crash), but the carbon-fiber ones only break if they're not clamped right. Fortunately, CF handlebars and seat posts don't normally get cut. My road carbon-fiber frame and fork have 43,000 miles on them, and the only bike parts I've ever broken were metal: crank arm, pedal, chain, axle; and in frames, before I had a carbon fiber frame, I broke steel—twice.