GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Crosman Airguns => Topic started by: Tack Driver 10 on December 23, 2017, 11:27:55 AM
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I recently acquired this basket case 2200 Magnum.
It has a loose stock and a broken probe, common problems with these guns.
The probe is NLA so I took a 2100 probe and modded it with a poly o-ring.
The bottom probe is the stock 2200, the replacement is above it.
The other 2 are for a 2100 and a 760.
Made a FT piston and valve cap.
Will get wood furniture.
A work in progress.
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Put it together today.
Used a duro 90 poly seal on the valve and a duro 75 viton seal on the piston.
A duro 90 seal on the piston should bump up the high end, maybe 700 FPS with 10 pumps.
I left the valve stock except ported the output.
The FT valve cap reduced the volume some.
Pressed a 1/4" brass sleeve onto the breech nipple.
I want to see what the performance is with just a FT setup.
With 14.3 grain CPHPs:
05 pumps= 526 FPS 08.8 FPE
07 pumps= 602 FPS 11.5 FPE
10 pumps= 680 FPS 14.7 FPE
12 pumps= 723 FPS 16.6 FPE
Tried 15 pumps but was retaining air.
Replacing the stock valve stem with a concave delrin stem should
allow full dump at 15 pumps.
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Wow, very nice results.
Thanks for showing us your details.
Off now to look for a cheap old 2200..... ;)
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Great work as always!
I installed your parts into my 2100 project gun last night. Works like a dream :)
Will you carve the furniture from scratch or do you mod something existing?
Steve
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My MO for the stock is to use a break barrel gun stock and modify it.
They're only $30 so it's a good starting point.
Not sure if I'm going to go with a thumb hole stock or a more conventional look.
My TH 2100 and 2 donor stocks:
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You really do amazing work on those crosmans. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
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You really do amazing work on those crosmans. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks, it helps quite a bit that Crosman has a lot of the parts at reasonable prices.
With a little TLC, a good gun can be made into a great gun.
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My MO for the stock is to use a break barrel gun stock and modify it.
They're only $30 so it's a good starting point.
Not sure if I'm going to go with a thumb hole stock or a more conventional look.
My TH 2100 and 2 donor stocks:
You gotta go conventional on this one, maybe even montecarlo if possible.
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Here they are mocked up.
I do like the Storm XT stock over the TH stock for this gun.
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Here they are mocked up.
I do like the Storm XT stock over the TH stock for this gun.
I agree. Great work.
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Cut the Storm XT stock and fit it with a bracket.
Stripped, sanded and stained.
This wood appears to be alder.
Took the MinWax English Chestnut stain really well.
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Sprayed the stock with two coats of satin spar urethane.
While waiting for it to cure I took the 2200 apart for some mods.
Installed a 90 duro poly o-ring on the piston replacing the 75 duro viton seal.
Valve mods:
Machined a concave seat on the exhaust end.
Made a valve stem from delrin to match the concave seat.
Put it together and ran it over the chrony:
With 14.3 grain CPHPs: before/after
05 pumps= 526/545 FPS 08.8/09.43 FPE
07 pumps= 602/615 FPS 11.5/12.01 FPE
10 pumps= 680/710 FPS 14.7/16.00 FPE
12 pumps= 723/736 FPS 16.6/17.10 FPE
Looks like it could use more valve volume since it seems to be stalling out at 10-12 pumps.
A 23" barrel, more valve volume and heavy pellets should easily net 20+ FPE with 10 pumps.
I have some 34 grain JSB Jumbo Beasts that I need to run through this gun.
The stock barrel has minimal rifling and is not very accurate.
It'll get a 2260 barrel in the near future.
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The original crown wasn't very good so cut it back and recrowned it.
Cut off the original lead in and turned it down to fit the 2200 breech.
Drilled the port .157" and drilled and polished the lead.
Ended up at 23 1/2".
Bottom pic is of an LW barrel for comparison.
Notice how much deeper the rifling is.
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The original crown wasn't very good so cut it back and recrowned it.
Cut off the original lead in and turned it down to fit the 2200 breech.
Drilled the port .157" and drilled and polished the lead.
Ended up at 23 1/2".
Bottom pic is of an LW barrel for comparison.
Notice how much deeper the rifling is.
Nice work! I have a model 1 with a 2260 barrel like that that shoots great. I also have a 2200 with a crappy soda straw barrel that is not accurate. It looks like the soda straw rifling fades away before it reaches the crown. I thought of cutting the soda straw shorter to see if that helps.
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The original crown wasn't very good so cut it back and recrowned it.
Cut off the original lead in and turned it down to fit the 2200 breech.
Drilled the port .157" and drilled and polished the lead.
Ended up at 23 1/2".
Bottom pic is of an LW barrel for comparison.
Notice how much deeper the rifling is.
Nice work! I have a model 1 with a 2260 barrel like that that shoots great. I also have a 2200 with a crappy soda straw barrel that is not accurate. It looks like the soda straw rifling fades away before it reaches the crown. I thought of cutting the soda straw shorter to see if that helps.
My 2200 soda straw barrel has minimal, very shallow rifling.
Hopefully the 2260 barrel will be more accurate.
Since it's almost 3" longer it should increase velocity about 25 FPS.
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This gun was stalling out above 10 pumps and I thought it needed more valve volume.
I found that the probe seal was leaking at high pump counts.
The first probe I made used 3/16" brass and allowed air to pass by the o-ring at high pressure.
I made a new probe and turned down some 1/4" brass with a .220" diameter around the gland.
Made a delrin transfer port seal since the original kept blowing out.
Made some more mods to the valve:
Pinned the valve.
Increased valve volume by removing the black spacer.
Opened the port from .160" to .170".
Chrony numbers:
With 14.3 grain CPHPs: before/after/last
05 pumps= 526/545/513 FPS 08.8/09.43/08.35 FPE
07 pumps= 602/615/590 FPS 11.5/12.01/11.05 FPE
10 pumps= 680/710/687 FPS 14.7/16.00/14.90 FPE
12 pumps= 723/736/725 FPS 16.6/17.10/16.70 FPE
15 pumps=_NT/_NT /790 FPS _NT/__NT_/19.81 FPE
Took one shot with a 34 grain JSB Beast pellet.
15 pumps=559 FPS 23.52 FPE (+3.71 FPE vs 14.3 grain CPHPs)
I'm not a big fan of pumping 15 times so reducing the valve volume should
optimize the gun at 10-12 pumps similar to the middle test results.
It'll peak out at around 750 FPS with 12 pumps vs 790 FPS at 15 pumps currently.
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I'm not a big fan of pumping 15 times so reducing the valve volume should
optimize the gun at 10-12 pumps similar to the middle test results.
It'll peak out at around 750 FPS with 12 pumps vs 790 FPS at 15 pumps currently.
This thread is awesome. Thank you for sharing your ingenuity!
15 ft-lbs at 10 pumps from this platform is pretty amazing. Is it much harder to pump than stock?
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Back in the 1980s a friends dad modified a Benji .22 and a 2200 both to ~18 fpe for me... had the best 30-35 yard hunters around... the only reason I took the heavier Benji on my long walkabouts( Sierras/Rubies/Jarbidge wilderness/high desert) was because it looked more like a pellet rifle... The 2200 looked to much like a real rifle...
The weakness that shows up about 18-20 fpe is the tray portion of the bolt want to break...
It actually seems take very little rifling at 10-20 fpe to get pellets to stabilize... Back then it was the green tin benji...
before I turned the pump into a 1325(then 1322) power plant (with .3" extended valve nose)I just made some barrel stabilizers for my 2100b and it was a lazer (sub .4") with the 7.4 points at 30 yards and was almost as good with the 7.9g CPHP...
lots of fiddly little leaks and such to fix on the platform... but when done they are surprisingly good air rifles... Back in the day a guy named Jeff Wolgast would put 1760 and 2260 barrels on them and they were said to be very accurate to about 50 yards...
I love seeing a well done Model 1/766/2200/2100 Rifle thank you for sharing...
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I'm not a big fan of pumping 15 times so reducing the valve volume should
optimize the gun at 10-12 pumps similar to the middle test results.
It'll peak out at around 750 FPS with 12 pumps vs 790 FPS at 15 pumps currently.
This thread is awesome. Thank you for sharing your ingenuity!
15 ft-lbs at 10 pumps from this platform is pretty amazing. Is it much harder to pump than stock?
I'm sure it's harder to pump than a stock gun but not bad.
The good thing is you don't have to pump the gun to the max.
7 pumps yields 11 FPE with the current valve volume.
Best to install a bumper on the pump arm.
Made these from duro 80 polyurethane.
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Back in the 1980s a friends dad modified a Benji .22 and a 2200 both to ~18 fpe for me... had the best 30-35 yard hunters around... the only reason I took the heavier Benji on my long walkabouts( Sierras/Rubies/Jarbidge wilderness/high desert) was because it looked more like a pellet rifle... The 2200 looked to much like a real rifle...
The weakness that shows up about 18-20 fpe is the tray portion of the bolt want to break...
It actually seems take very little rifling at 10-20 fpe to get pellets to stabilize... Back then it was the green tin benji...
before I turned the pump into a 1325(then 1322) power plant (with .3" extended valve nose)I just made some barrel stabilizers for my 2100b and it was a lazer (sub .4") with the 7.4 points at 30 yards and was almost as good with the 7.9g CPHP...
lots of fiddly little leaks and such to fix on the platform... but when done they are surprisingly good air rifles... Back in the day a guy named Jeff Wolgast would put 1760 and 2260 barrels on them and they were said to be very accurate to about 50 yards...
I love seeing a well done Model 1/766/2200/2100 Rifle thank you for sharing...
The Benji has a lot of untapped potential.
I haven't seen anyone FT one of them, looks fairly easy.
10 pumps should get around 25 FPE with the huge swept volume.
Here's a 2100 that I pepped up and really like that gun.
The wood stock makes it feel like a real gun instead of a toy.
It gets 920 FPS on 15 strokes and is really accurate with the soda straw barrel.
A 78-80 760 with the brass bolt handle and hammer valve can be made into something special.
This one has a 2100 tube, brass barrel band, wood stock and challenger (LW) barrel.
Gets 820 FPS with 12 strokes.
Haven't had any of my bolt trays break yet.
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My favorite build of yours...well call me a bit prejudiced.. ;)but it is the Fat tubed 1322...18.25 fpe off 12 pumps... Not to mention I really like the looks...
That is what a modern pumper should be...
my poor relation just using crosman parts.. :-[.... do not get me wrong I still like it... but it is not near as nice and I bet a good bit less sturdy than your Build... did switch it to a .177 for a short while 930 fps with 7.9g is not to bad for still having a pump cup and stuffed plastic piston...more pumps than a flat top would need of course
But yep your builds have a style of their own and love your Brass work...
I stole the below pic of your build before the photo bucket dried up... just really nice rifle
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My favorite build of yours...well call me a bit prejudiced.. ;)but it is the Fat tubed 1322...18.25 fpe off 12 pumps... Not to mention I really like the looks...
That is what a modern pumper should be...
my poor relation just using crosman parts.. :-[.... do not get me wrong I still like it... but it is not near as nice and I bet a good bit less sturdy than your Build... did switch it to a .177 for a short while 930 fps with 7.9g is not to bad for still having a pump cup and stuffed plastic piston...more pumps than a flat top would need of course
But yep your builds have a style of their own and love your Brass work...
I stole the below pic of your build before the photo bucket dried up... just really nice rifle
That gun was "The Chubby", named for the fat MK tube used.
I put an 18" Air Force (LW) barrel and suppressor on it since that picture.
It's one of my best guns along with the Magnum Force (MF) 140.
The problem with the 13xx chassis is wood stock choices are very limited.
Chubby numbers with last mod:
10 pumps=743 FPS, 17.52 FPE
12 pumps=785 FPS, 19.56 FPE
15 pumps=838 FPS, 22.30 FPE
20 pumps=915 FPS, 26.58 FPE
The MF-140 has a hammer valve, MRod trigger, FT piston/valve, 13xx steel breech, brass BB, etc.
Chrony results MF-140:
05 pumps= 616 FPS 12.05 FPE
07 pumps= 692 FPS 15.20 FPE
10 pumps= 811 FPS 20.88 FPE
12 pumps= 840 FPS 22.40 FPE
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Put the 2260 barrel on the gun and ran some accuracy tests.
Sighted it in at 15 yards.
Accuracy on a scale of 1-10 is a 6 in my opinion.
Typical Crosman barrel, 4 shots under a dime and then some wanderers.
Better than some but not a great barrel.
Pumped the gun two times and shot a 5.52 H&N Barracuda Match pellet into a towel.
Minimal rifling shows on the pellet skirt with almost none on the head.
By comparison the LW barreled pellets have heavy rifling on the head and skirt.
Measured the LW barrel at the choked end.
It measured .213".
The 2260 barrel measured .218".
The pellet heads measured .216".
I'm convinced the 2260 barrels that shoot well are tighter than this one.
Perhaps they were higher quality 20 years before made in China became popular.
I have two 22 cal LW barrel blanks and might put one on this gun.
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I noticed that the fit between the pump tube and receiver has about .010" of slop.
Figured this can't be good for accuracy since the scope is mounted on the receiver.
The 766 receivers are much tighter but the 2100/2200/760 etc guns are loose as a goose.
Bedded the receiver with JB-Weld and stippled the pump tube with high strength RTV.
That'll take the play out and provide a little crush factor.
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The Crosman 2260 barrel didn't group as well as I liked so prepped an LW barrel blank.
Not sure if I'll leave it in this gun long term so it's temped in.
Shot some pellets yesterday and it grouped under a dime at 20 yards with Barracuda Match ammo.
I'd like it to do that at 30+ yards.
Also did some trigger work.
Took .030" off the sear and added a .036" brass shim.
I have an adjustable solution in the works.
I really don't like the plastic bolt so made one from brass.
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Nice work!!
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Nice work!!
Thanks, I really like the way brass and wood transforms the look and feel of these guns.
Made the brass barrel band.
Still needs 3 set screws and fitting to the tube.
It's a little on the "blingy" side but it'll match the cocking bolt nicely.
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Fit the barrel band to the tube.
Used a 6mm black oxide bolt for the main pivot
and two 5mm bolts to anchor the tangs.
The bolts and nut have a radius cut where they meet the tube
so they wedge into the mounting hole when tightened.
The main pivot bolt is threaded into the LH tang so when pumped won't spin.
The locking nut on the outside caps it off.
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Beautiful work, as usual!
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The donor stock for this gun is from a Storm XT.
Not sure what type of wood it is.
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Put the 2200 together this morning.
I used a dab of high strength 3145 RTV between the breech and the pump tube.
Compressed them lightly in a small machinist vise and lashed them together.
Let them set overnight.
Another RTV dab in the receiver cups that hold the breech should prevent movement.
Cut the end of the shroud off so made a muzzle break to secure the barrel.
A wood pump arm and a can will finish this gun.
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Nice gun!! 8)
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WOW :o your mods are top notch!..all the guns look amazing...thanks for posting..
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This may be my favorite of all your builds so far! Can't wait to see it finished off with the wood pump arm.
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Took my 2100 down for some minor mods.
One of which was a bolt upgrade.
Bedded the receiver with JB Weld while I had it open.
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Thanks for the pics on how you bed it with JB weld. I have noticed some slop on my 2100 so I will do the same with mine.
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Thanks for the pics on how you bed it with JB weld. I have noticed some slop on my 2100 so I will do the same with mine.
Just in case it isn't obvious, I placed a partition down by the detent.
I used a small piece of cardboard wrapped with teflon tape and secured with hot melt glue.
It prevents the epoxy from filling the area where the detent goes.
It pops off after everything sets.
A light coat of grease on the tube will prevent the epoxy from adhering.
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Thanks for the pics on how you bed it with JB weld. I have noticed some slop on my 2100 so I will do the same with mine.
Just in case it isn't obvious, I placed a partition down by the detent.
I used a small piece of cardboard covered with teflon tape and wedged in.
It prevents the epoxy from filling the area where the detent goes.
It pops off after everything sets.
Okay. Thanks!!
I just thought of something else. What about using JB weld putty. https://www.jbweld.com/products/steelstik-epoxy-putty-stick (https://www.jbweld.com/products/steelstik-epoxy-putty-stick)
It would dry quicker and be less messy. It is about $3-$4 at Walmart.
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Thanks for the pics on how you bed it with JB weld. I have noticed some slop on my 2100 so I will do the same with mine.
Just in case it isn't obvious, I placed a partition down by the detent.
I used a small piece of cardboard covered with teflon tape and wedged in.
It prevents the epoxy from filling the area where the detent goes.
It pops off after everything sets.
Okay. Thanks!!
I just thought of something else. What about using JB weld putty. https://www.jbweld.com/products/steelstik-epoxy-putty-stick (https://www.jbweld.com/products/steelstik-epoxy-putty-stick)
It would dry quicker and be less messy. It is about $3-$4 at Walmart.
I tried similar products like that and found them unacceptable.
They're not as strong and didn't form or adhere well.
Tensile strength of 900 psi vs 3950 for the original JB.
Original JB will set up in 4-6 hours at 70 degrees to a putty like consistency which makes it easy to work.
Use a glue syringe to dispense the epoxy to minimize any mess.
I like these curved tip dental syringes available on EBay for about $1 each.
The trick is not to put too much.
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Thanks for the pics on how you bed it with JB weld. I have noticed some slop on my 2100 so I will do the same with mine.
Just in case it isn't obvious, I placed a partition down by the detent.
I used a small piece of cardboard covered with teflon tape and wedged in.
It prevents the epoxy from filling the area where the detent goes.
It pops off after everything sets.
Okay. Thanks!!
I just thought of something else. What about using JB weld putty. https://www.jbweld.com/products/steelstik-epoxy-putty-stick (https://www.jbweld.com/products/steelstik-epoxy-putty-stick)
It would dry quicker and be less messy. It is about $3-$4 at Walmart.
I tried similar products like that and found they were not good. They're not as strong and didn't form or adhere well.
Tensile strength of 900 psi vs 3950 for the original JB.
Original JB will set up in 4-6 hours at 70 degrees to a putty like consistency which makes it easy to work.
Okay. That is why I asked.
Just another quick question. Could a crosman 2100/2200 be modded to use a 7/8" OD Disco tube?
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I think it may be possible to shoe horn a 3/4" tube into a 2100/2200 receiver.
I get good power with the stock setup so it's not worth the aggravation for me.
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I think it may be possible to shoe horn a 3/4" tube into a 2100/2200 receiver.
I get good power with the stock setup so it's not worth the aggravation for me.
I guess I meant more for a 2100 pcp and tuned for 12-15 FPE.
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7/8" tube in a C2100 would be very tight(Maybe impossible). My PCPs are 3/4" tubes. All factory strikers and cocking pins are used.
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I think it may be possible to shoe horn a 3/4" tube into a 2100/2200 receiver.
I get good power with the stock setup so it's not worth the aggravation for me.
I guess I meant more for a 2100 pcp and tuned for 12-15 FPE.
Another option to convert a 2100/2200 to PCP would be to cut the stock tube
just passed the receiver and add an adapter block with a large diameter tube.
A wood thumb hole stock would help balance the gun.
Use an MRod or Disco tube and any of those internals can be used.
Could also adapt a regulated bottle.
Similar to this:
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Thanks guys! It was just a passing thought. I like pumpers better than pcps anyway. ;D
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Thanks guys! It was just a passing thought. I like pumpers better than pcps anyway. ;D
If I was looking for a PCP I would get a PRod, put a good barrel on it with a Boyds stock.
Has a great adjustable trigger, 8 round magazine and it's quiet.
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Anyone know where I can buy those 2100 broad bolt probes with o rings for my 2100/1400 hybrid?
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The trigger on these guns leave a lot of room for improvement.
I did some trigger work on the 2200 by taking some off the sear
and adding a brass spacer but now it's "Hammer Time".
Noticed these hammers have a rounded edge where they let off the sear.
Some of the older 766 hammers have somewhat sharper corners.
Not exactly optimal for the crisp trigger I'm after.
These hammers are hardened so I knew this was going to be tough going.
I selected a 4 flute carbide end mill that has seen better days for the job.
Not too bad, had to go slow and after a few sparks and a quick polish came out good.
Cut a second hammer with a 5 degree angle and a slightly sharper edge.
This is an old school hammer with the sharper edges.
Not sure how this will work out so I'll have to install it in a gun and test it.
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Thanks for sharing, great work!
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I wanted an adjustable sear so made this.
It's a 4-40 thread so each full turn equals .025".
Adjustable from hunting to hair trigger.
JB Welded in place with Loctite on the threads.
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Great ingenuity. You ought to open a shop, if for nothing else, at least to work on vintage and etc. Maybe not to the point that you lose your love for it... maybe just enough to help some people and tinker. I think the best and most trusted guys that work on these guns started out that way. Keep it to word of mouth and on the forums... or not. Maybe an income source after retirement, etc...
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Great ingenuity. You ought to open a shop, if for nothing else, at least to work on vintage and etc. Maybe not to the point that you lose your love for it... maybe just enough to help some people and tinker. I think the best and most trusted guys that work on these guns started out that way. Keep it to word of mouth and on the forums... or not. Maybe an income source after retirement, etc...
I generally like to keep my hobbies separate from anything remotely resembling work.
I've done some small side jobs but not often.
Put the 2200 back together with the adjustable sear.
Cut a 20 degree angle on the hammer.
The sear pivot had about .035" of side play so cut some .015" teflon washers.
One on each side of the sear and one between the trigger and it's spring.
It keeps the spring separated from the trigger.
Had to take a bit off the trigger pivot boss on the RH receiver for clearance.
Cut the sear spring in half, two for one special.
Adjusted the trigger for a 2 1/4 pound pull.
About 1/8 turn CCW from the bottom.
Another 1/2 turn CCW and the gun won't cock.
The safety works as normal with this setup.
A light hunting trigger or heavy target trigger.
Another area that needs attention is the hammer slot area.
Mine was very rough so cleaned it up with small files and sandpaper.
Hammer cavity also had a 5/16" to 3/8" transition with a sharp edge.
Made a delrin bushing so now it's 5/16" straight through.
Now it cocks smooth as butter.
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Great work friend
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I really like the adjustable trigger in my 2200 so
had to make one for my 2100.
Ordered some sears and hammers and they arrived today.
Used 3/16" brass for the nut vs 1/4" brass for the 2200.
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New pivot pins for the sear and trigger.
Used #22 drill rod.
It's much smoother and +.001" (.156" vs .155") diameter for a better fit.
Top is drill rod.
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Assembled the 2100.
Since the Winter Olympics are ongoing decided to "go for the gold".
Bottom tapped the receiver threads and used brass screws.
Compliments the brass barrel band and bolt nicely.
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Very nice as always!
What do you use to attach the wood stock to the gun?
I plan to make a stock similar to this one as soon as my Spring semester at college is over.
http://i2.guns.ru/forums/icons/forum_pictures/002097/2097521.jpg (http://i2.guns.ru/forums/icons/forum_pictures/002097/2097521.jpg)
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Very nice as always!
What do you use to attach the wood stock to the gun?
I plan to make a stock similar to this one as soon as my Spring semester at college is over.
http://i2.guns.ru/forums/icons/forum_pictures/002097/2097521.jpg (http://i2.guns.ru/forums/icons/forum_pictures/002097/2097521.jpg)
I cut a bracket from 1" square brass tubing.
Made in 2 pieces and attached with 5/16" x 18 bolts.
Aluminum can also be used as I did for the prototype.
The receiver castings vary from version to version so have to be custom made.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=132874.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=132874.0)
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Awesome!! I had not seen the other post you had made. Thanks for the pics!
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BTW: What is the size of the Brass square tube?
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BTW: What is the size of the Brass square tube?
1" square x 1/8" wall thickness.
https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=21657&step=4&id=138&CAWELAID=120293320000024333 (https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=21657&step=4&id=138&CAWELAID=120293320000024333)
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To summarize the mods for the 2200/2100/766/Model 1.
1. Piston:
Adjustable flat top piston with felt oiler, Duro 90 poly O-ring.
2. Brass valve:
Flat top, port valve, pin to the tube, concave seat, delrin valve stem and transfer port, light spring, Duro 90 poly O-ring.
3. Probe/bolt:
Brass with o-ring, custom brass bolt.
4. Trigger/sear:
Modified adjustable sear (2 lb pull), light sear spring, .015" teflon spacers, 25 degree faced hammer, compress trigger spring, #22 Drill blank pins.
5. Barrel band:
Replaced with custom brass version, 6 mm pivot bolt.
6. Bed Receiver:
Bedded receiver with JB-Weld, stippled tube with RTV, lashed barrel to tube.
7. Receiver screws:
Bottom tap, and replace with 1 1/8" 8-32 oval head screws.
8. Pump arm bumper:
Polyurethane bumper in pump arm.
9. Barrel bushings:
Delrin bushings to stabilize barrel in shroud, seal barrel to breach.
10. Barrel:
Polish crown (.177 cal), replace .22 cal soda straw barrel.
11. Teflon tape on pump tube at breach end.
12. Wood furniture.
13. BKL scope rings.
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How do you like the trigger now after the mods?
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How do you like the trigger now after the mods?
The trigger on the 2100 is just under 2 lbs. and the trigger on the 2200 is about 2 1/4 lbs.
Both have no creep and break nice and crisp.
I like the lighter 2100 trigger but next time I'm the guns I'll go lighter.
I think about 1 1/2 lbs. would be ideal for me.
That would be about 1/8 turn CCW (.003") on the adjustment screw.
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How do you like the trigger now after the mods?
The trigger on the 2100 is just under 2 lbs. and the trigger on the 2200 is about 2 1/4 lbs.
Both have no creep and break nice and crisp.
I like the lighter 2100 trigger but next time I'm the guns I'll go lighter.
I think about 1 1/2 lbs. would be ideal for me.
That would be about 1/8 turn CCW (.003") on the adjustment screw.
Sounds pretty good. I've yet to do anything to the triggers on any of my variants. I have a couple 766's, an AM77, and a 2200 that might get some attention soon.
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How do you like the trigger now after the mods?
The trigger on the 2100 is just under 2 lbs. and the trigger on the 2200 is about 2 1/4 lbs.
Both have no creep and break nice and crisp.
I like the lighter 2100 trigger but next time I'm the guns I'll go lighter.
I think about 1 1/2 lbs. would be ideal for me.
That would be about 1/8 turn CCW (.003") on the adjustment screw.
Sounds pretty good. I've yet to do anything to the triggers on any of my variants. I have a couple 766's, an AM77, and a 2200 that might get some attention soon.
Another method to make the trigger pull adjustable is to drill and tap the back end of the tube
for an adjustment screw where the sear lands.
The tube is only .060" thick so there's not a lot of thread engagement.