GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Crosman Airguns => Topic started by: GreenDragon on December 14, 2017, 11:17:18 AM
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I bought my first 2100 when I was 12 and had it for 30 years. Loved that thing. The trauma of it's tragic loss is what brought me to this forum and got me into the hobby. Anyway, couldn't pass up the $46 deal on Amazon yesterday so a new 2100 Classic is on it's way to my humble abode tomorrow. ;D
The Plan is to oil the pump and take a few test shots to ensure all is in working order. Then will completely tear down and do some easy mods such as polish the lead in, polish, align, and seal the transfer port, seal the barrel at the breach, tape mods for the barrel, touch up the crown if needed, etc.
I hear that they still haven't put an O-ring on the bolt probe. Anyone know how to DIY one or if there is an aftermarket available?
Also would eventually like to get an LDC and wood stock set for it. Has anyone done something similar? Pics!
More to come.... Steve
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About the LDC : I've installed a Diana LDC on my Crosman 2100 a few years ago. It's really efficient and allows you to keep the foresight on. The barrel diameter (16mm) fits exactly the silencer's bore: https://www.versandhaus-schneider.de/product_info.php/products_id/6956. (https://www.versandhaus-schneider.de/product_info.php/products_id/6956.) It looks like Versandhaus Schneider can ship to the US. There's also a french airgun shop that sells this item, but it's more expensive and he probably doesn't export abroad.
Pics here attached.
I also found someone in UK that sells an attractive adapter which seems specially designed for the Crosman 2100 : http://www.ebay.ie/itm/-/262329025331?. (http://www.ebay.ie/itm/-/262329025331?.) I never got in touch with him. It's obviously cheaper but you got to find an LDC...
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I have not done it yet but one member shortened the breech end of the barrel and then trapped an oring in the breech... Big Bore Bart used the same concept but has a lathe so he counter bored the barrel a bit to hold the oring instead of shortening the barrel...
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I haven't done any of this, but mine shoots great with nothing more than a taped barrel and lightened trigger spring. The sights on mine are also not stock but that's only because I don't like it watch a scope on top.
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There's lots that can be done to the 2100.
Most of these guns are very accurate right out of the box.
Mine has a FT piston and valve, brass barrel band, valve mods, O-ringed barrel, 766 pump link, brass probe, lightened trigger, wood furniture etc.
With 7.9 CPHPS:
05 pumps 635 FPS, 07 FPE
07 pumps 730 FPS, 09 FPE
10 pumps 820 FPS, 12 FPE
15 pumps 920 FPS, 15 FPE
A new stock 2100 with 10 pumps=625 FPS
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I have a couple of ldc adapters for 2100/2200/1077and 766 provided they have the straight barrel housing and i'll ship to the US
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I got a new one this summer .out of the box it is a tack driver.even with a crappy trigger.i am reluctant to tear it down and tune it.it just shoots that good.the tree rats that took dirt naps would agree with that.
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Sorry so late. I phone pics too big. :o
Here's my older version black on black AM77. It was the first ever airgun I modded. It has a few goodies including some old parts from and exploded Crosman 766, sealed up, and polished trigger.
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I bought my first 2100 when I was 12 and had it for 30 years. Loved that thing. The trauma of it's tragic loss is what brought me to this forum and got me into the hobby. Anyway, couldn't pass up the $46 deal on Amazon yesterday so a new 2100 Classic is on it's way to my humble abode tomorrow. ;D
The Plan is to oil the pump and take a few test shots to ensure all is in working order. Then will completely tear down and do some easy mods such as polish the lead in, polish, align, and seal the transfer port, seal the barrel at the breach, tape mods for the barrel, touch up the crown if needed, etc.
One of the biggest differences between the older 2100s and the new ones is the older ones had a 2 piece piston.
The new guns have a plastic piston that bends and makes it impossible to get high performance so you
might consider replacing it with a 2 piece or adjustable piston.
Here's the older 2 piece piston and the FT piston in my gun.
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I got a new one this summer .out of the box it is a tack driver.even with a crappy trigger.i am reluctant to tear it down and tune it.it just shoots that good.the tree rats that took dirt naps would agree with that.
Mine was really accurate out of the box as well.
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First Update
Well, the 2100 arrived on time Friday afternoon, and I was able to take a few test shots with it to make sure all was in order. I then took it to the garage and cleaned the barrel (which was surprisingly not very dirty at all). Unfortunately, between work and rain I haven't had a chance to really put it through it's paces yet, but here are a few of my initial thoughts and observations:
1. Ahhh nostalgia! It sounds exactly the same as my original. As anyone who's every had both this and a Daisy 880, you know they each have a distinctive sound on firing, and neither has changed in 30+ years in how they sound.
2. Fit and Finish: Remarkably tight and solid. Honestly, it's better out of the box than my original was. Only the barrel shroud has a slight wiggle to it.
3. Sights: Worse than the original, not that those were great. Just too "fat" to give a lot of accuracy. Fine for aluminum cans, but not for hunting IMHO. Trying to decide to replace them with aftermarkets or just scope it for long term use. For accuracy testing later this week I have a UTG 4X32 hunter scope I'll put on later this week.
4. Oddities: Original 2100 max was 10 pumps, while the new version says the max is 8 pumps. I guess the new piston has a different compression ratio. Also, the manual says to use RMCOIL oil (which is made for springers), but the website suggests PellGun oil (made for pumpers & CO2) as a recommended accessory. Hmmmm
Next I'm going to pop the UTG scope on and do some accuracy testing to see if it warrants a tear-down or not. Stay tuned! Same Bat Time, Same Bat channel :)
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1. That familiar "clack!" when pumping. I know what you mean.
2. Some tape will fix that barrel wiggle. Ive made spacers/stabilizers out of wood, or if you have the tools, out of plastic. You can find and buy some if you want to spend more money.
3. The rear sight looks the same but that thick tru-glow front sight is pretty thick. I don't mind so much. If that small, I sort of just imagine and dance my target on top, closest to the center of the front sight.
4. I think by the time you get to 8 pumps, the plastic piston is probably flexing too much to efficiently add more air. My AM77 came with one but I replaced it with a 2 piece plastic/metal one that I had laying around because Im a hoarder. Lol Crosman doesnt want to confuse the beginner springer people so they say to use the RMCOIL to be safe. The thing is, I hear that stuff detonates in a springer too. Stick to Pellgun Oil or some other close "Non Detergent" oil in your pumpers and co2 guns. I alway oil mine after use to preven the seals from drying out.
Lol I watched that show the other day for nostalgia sake. Everythings "bat" from the ladder to a funnel. So hilarious now but logic was spot on as a s a kid, well, because it's Batman's stuff. Lol ;D Why wouldn't they be labeled that?
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One of the biggest differences between the older 2100s and the new ones is the older ones had a 2 piece piston.
The new guns have a plastic piston that bends and makes it impossible to get high performance so you
might consider replacing it with a 2 piece or adjustable piston.
Do you think there is any point in "stuffing" the plastic portion of the old 2 piece piston?
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One of the biggest differences between the older 2100s and the new ones is the older ones had a 2 piece piston.
The new guns have a plastic piston that bends and makes it impossible to get high performance so you
might consider replacing it with a 2 piece or adjustable piston.
Do you think there is any point in "stuffing" the plastic portion of the old 2 piece piston?
What you really need is an adjustable FT piston and valve.
An adjustable pump cup piston is also a good alternative.
The key word here is "adjustable".
Here's a piston I made today for a 2200 Magnum basket case that I'm getting later this week.
The prototype is made from Delrin and the final piston is brass.
Made it to look like a pellet (obviously).
Also for the gear heads out there, a piston made to look like an engine piston.
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First Update
Well, the 2100 arrived on time Friday afternoon, and I was able to take a few test shots with it to make sure all was in order. I then took it to the garage and cleaned the barrel (which was surprisingly not very dirty at all). Unfortunately, between work and rain I haven't had a chance to really put it through it's paces yet, but here are a few of my initial thoughts and observations:
1. Ahhh nostalgia! It sounds exactly the same as my original. As anyone who's every had both this and a Daisy 880, you know they each have a distinctive sound on firing, and neither has changed in 30+ years in how they sound.
2. Fit and Finish: Remarkably tight and solid. Honestly, it's better out of the box than my original was. Only the barrel shroud has a slight wiggle to it.
3. Sights: Worse than the original, not that those were great. Just too "fat" to give a lot of accuracy. Fine for aluminum cans, but not for hunting IMHO. Trying to decide to replace them with aftermarkets or just scope it for long term use. For accuracy testing later this week I have a UTG 4X32 hunter scope I'll put on later this week.
4. Oddities: Original 2100 max was 10 pumps, while the new version says the max is 8 pumps. I guess the new piston has a different compression ratio. Also, the manual says to use RMCOIL oil (which is made for springers), but the website suggests PellGun oil (made for pumpers & CO2) as a recommended accessory. Hmmmm
Next I'm going to pop the UTG scope on and do some accuracy testing to see if it warrants a tear-down or not. Stay tuned! Same Bat Time, Same Bat channel :)
That's strange, I've had mine about 2 years and it was listed as a max of 10 pumps.
I wonder what has changed in 2 years ?
Did you get the 2100b with the checkered woodgrain stocks, or 2100x with plain brown textured stocks ?
Maybe they changed more than just the stocks, and if so I'm sure glad I got mine when I did.
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Amazon just says it’s a 2100 classic. It has a smooth brown stock. I’ll post some pics in the morning.
I did mount the scope and tried out some pellets. I was a little surprised at the wide patterns I initially got, but then I got 4 pellets in the same hole at 20’. Those were the CPUM’s. Of course it’s still leading in, so darn, I just need to shoot it some more. 8)
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Tack Driver 10 that is beautiful work! Do you take orders???
Here are the pics from last night. It was raining and just plain nasty outside so I had to do everything in the garage which has bad lighting. So apologies if the colors look a little "off".
Here is a snap of the stock and nameplate, one of the front sight alongside the aftermarkets I plan on replacing them with, and a picture of my initial pellet selection test. 4 pellets of each type just to start narrowing the preferences down.
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Tack Driver 10 that is beautiful work! Do you take orders???
Here are the pics from last night. It was raining and just plain nasty outside so I had to do everything in the garage which has bad lighting. So apologies if the colors look a little "off".
Here is a snap of the stock and nameplate, one of the front sight alongside the aftermarkets I plan on replacing them with, and a picture of my initial pellet selection test. 4 pellets of each type just to start narrowing the preferences down.
Hmm, well I guess they must've changed something inside the guns as well.
Btw how do you plan to mount those aftermarket shotgun sights ?
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Tack Driver 10 that is beautiful work! Do you take orders???
Here are the pics from last night. It was raining and just plain nasty outside so I had to do everything in the garage which has bad lighting. So apologies if the colors look a little "off".
Here is a snap of the stock and nameplate, one of the front sight alongside the aftermarkets I plan on replacing them with, and a picture of my initial pellet selection test. 4 pellets of each type just to start narrowing the preferences down.
Thanks for the compliment. I don't mind taking on small projects just not looking to start a second career.
I have a lot of 2100 parts so when you get ready to mod your gun drop me a line.
That 2100 you have is very different than mine I bought in 2012. Even the receiver casting is different.
Looks like Crosman may have made changes when they came out with the Legacy 1000 which is
a not so fantastic plastic version of the 2100.
Might want to return it and get a new or used 2100B or better yet, 766 and mod it.
Contrary to what some say, you can get some good deals on EBay.
Just bought a basket case 2200 Magnum for $75 delivered.
That's my next project gun.
A 760 with a 2100 tube and Challenger (LW) barrel makes a nice gun.
The 78-80 versions are the best IMO.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=135148.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=135148.0)
Here's the finished 2200 Magnum piston along with 2 old school pistons.
It can be adjusted in the gun by knocking off the nut with a pin punch
and then rotating the piston via the holes in the skirt.
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Hi David,
The rear sight can use the same holes as the stock sight. The front I'll use a dab of aquarium grade silicone adhesive / sealant. Worked well when I added them to one of my break barrels. Or I may just leave the scope on - Haven't decided yet :)
Steve
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Hmmm I've never seen that version 2100. If your reciever is metal, I think you're probably still good. I know the screw pattern on the (one year, lasts only one year) Leacy 1000 was different. You got me wondering if that gun really has a plastic piston, or the Legacy piston. I know a lot of people wanted to throw the Legacy piston in their 2100s. If it still the metal reciever with with the Legacy piston, Crosman may have done somethin right.
So you gonna shave the front sight and re-tap it for the new one to screw in and sit on top? The rear shouldn't be too hard to adapt. I got an old williams sight that was made for a tapered barrel to fit on mine.
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Hey Mav,
Yes, the receiver is actually metal! I was surprised myself. I guess I'm just going to have to go ahead and crack this baby open and see what's inside - Inquiring minds need to know :)
As for the sights, I was thinking along similar lines. I'll decide my final approach once I get it all disassembled and figure out how they put this model together.
Igor! Prepare the surgery, strap down the patient, and raise the lightning rods! MMWUU-HA HA-HA-HA!!!
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A picture of the piston area beneath the pump forearm might give a hint on what piston the gun has.
Shoot, if it is indeed the Legacy piston, I may just have to get another 2100. :o
Don't know if you've ever taken one of these types of rifles apart but it can be a balancing act with springs when putting it back together. Some are nice and friendly, others will fight you all the way. Put a stronger hammer spring and the gun can have you swearing for hours. Lol
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Here's my thoughts on the great 2100 controversy.
There are 3 versions, the 2100B, Legacy 1000 and the new 2100 whatever.
Perhaps Crosman was looking to lower the price point of the 2100 so they
decided to make the receiver out of plastic etc like the rest of their pumpers.
The Legacy 1000 is born, a thinly disguised version of the venerable 2100.
But wait, big problems with the plastic receivers breaking.
Plan B, make the receivers from some type of metal and now we have the new 2100X Classic.
It remains to be seen if the new metal receiver is as solid as the 2100Bs.
Sadly it looks like the 2100B is about to be NLA.
Looking forward to GDs review of the internals.
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Well, I did the tear down last night and have pictures below on what I found. From what I can tell it's all pretty standard except for the metal receiver. One piece plastic piston with the cone cup/valve assembly. I'm glad I went ahead with the tear down, as there are a few easy fixes I'm going to do while it's apart:
1: Tape mods to both end of the barrel for stability and sealing at the breach.
2: Replace the sights and use shorter screws for the rear as the OEM screws are touching / deflecting the barrel.
3: Polish & moly the trigger assembly
4: Deburred the pump tube (did that before I removed the valve so as not to scratch the o-ring)
5: Seal the transfer "tube" between valve and barrel
I'm still glad I got it, and for $45 bucks what a steal. I know the other Crosman platforms are easier to mod and work on, but I've just always had a soft spot for this gun.
Tack Driver 10 - If you're feeling frisky I'd be interested in one of your custom piston / valve combos :)
Anyone know where I can get a better bolt probe that actually seals? Or where to get some o-rings?
Thanks again everyone. Once I get her back together and break it in I'll post another update.
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While you have it apart, assemble the trigger parts in the left side plate if memory serves, bend the front leg of the spring back some to lighten the trigger, that'll do more for the trigger than anything else...
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GD, I don't see very much difference between your gun and the 2100B.
So the question is, why did they go through the trouble?
Perhaps some improvements that aren't obvious.
The solid piston from the Legacy would have been nice.
Do you have a Chrony or have access to one?
Would be nice to see what velocity that gun is pushing before and after mods.
I can make you a piston/valve.
I have the aluminum valve from my 2100 that I modified and got 928 FPS with 15 pumps.
It has a SS washer pressed onto the back so it won't slide back and other mods.
You can have it since all my valves are brass now.
It's a cup type but I can make a FT along with a piston unless you want the cup.
For the probe I take an existing probe, cut off the door, turn it in the lathe, thread the plastic for 8-32 and make a brass
probe with an o-ring that threads on.
My 2100 has an o-ring encapsulated between the barrel and breech.
Had to trim the barrel about 1/16" but it works fine with a plain brass probe.
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Modding the 2100/766 is a breeze. :D I do still have a few of the last run of brass flattop valve caps. The O-ring I use in the barrel is a 7mm x 1.5mm available at ACE Hdw, look in the bins. ;) I turn a recess into the end of the barrel that is 7 x 1.4mm, the plastic probe has a rebated area that makes a nice seal to the O-ring.
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If you don’t mind shortening the rear of the barrel a little bit to accommodate an “o” ring between the barrel and the transfer port housing, you can do that. Also wrap that area of the barrel with plumbers tape and burn in the transfer port hole with a soldering iron. That will make it nice and sealed. Mine use to kick the bolt open on every shot before the mods. This was a mod I shared with an old member “Petey” back in the day. Our AM77s looked like twins. Lol
Hey, I know one difference. My plastic piston wasn’t rubbed. Lol
You can also flll your plastic stock with can foam. Drill small holes in the fake screws (do they still have those?) on the rear stock, spray expanding foam in hole, clean and let dry, then drill and screw in real screws.
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What would happen if these parts are installed in a 2100?
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I think I would have the most awesome 2100 in the whole state of Texas! :)
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Here's another quick update:
So I've pretty much been following everyone's advice and done their suggested mods in addition to the ones I had originally listed. I even filled the stock with a tube of latex caulk, which really helps the balance and removes that hollow drum sound. I discovered that even my beloved aquarium sealant would not stick to the plastic of the barrel end where I had cut off the OEM front sight. Thankfully, because it is plastic, it was a simple matter to tap a hole and install the sight with a screw. I've attached a pic of the new sight picture. That instantly did a lot to improve accuracy shooting with the iron sights.
Tack Driver 10's generous donation of the piston/valve/bolt assembly is on it's way and I will post pics of the installation and then some test shots.
Stay tuned! I'm having a blast with this project gun :)
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Lookin' good!
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TD10's parts came in as expected yesterday, and I was able to swap everything out in about 5 minutes. I must say, I'm getting much faster at taking it apart and reassembling than the first time LOL.
Replaced the OEM valve and piston assembly with TD10's beautifully machined replacements. His piston assembly is particularly elegant in that you can adjust the stroke length without removing anything from the airgun. Genius! Also installed the new bolt he sent me that has an o-ring to seal the breach. That makes a huge difference in reducing the sound of the gun and increasing power. I can no longer feel the puff of air from the breach upon firing.
Did a couple test shots just using the iron sights at 20 ft to test her out. 4 shots each with 3 different pellets. Not bad at all, as I was not really trying very hard. Can't wait to put the scope back on and do some more accuracy trials. If only the weather would clear up I can test it out at 30 yards.
Going to borrow a chrony from a friend next week so I'll be able to give a performance report.
Stay tuned :)
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Congratulations Steve, on your new 2100 ! I put a compact 4x20 CV Life scope on my 2100. Shimming the barrel shroud is the only mod I have done with my gun so far. The 2100 is very accurate out to 35yards. I have done some hunting with mine but mostly use it to target shoot with my grand kids. Best Wishes - Tom
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Good to see everything arrived and got installed without a hitch.
Looking forward to the chrony results.
Should get around 800 FPS on 10 pumps.
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I just received my $46 2100.
Here are some chrony numbers out of the box with CPHP:
4 pumps 468
6 pumps 540
8 pumps 590
10 pumps 622
12 pumps 645
The new smooth plastic stock exudes cheapness and makes the old plastic seem classy. I suppose that's why they can sell a new gun for $46 on Amazon and $40 at Walmart.
Anyway, if accuracy is good, I'll be happy. If it needs improvement, I'll tinker.
Have fun!
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Dan,
Thanks for posting your baseline numbers. That way I'll have something to compare against.
You'll get the best accuracy using a scope and at least shimming the front of the barrel.
Enjoy!
Steve
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Ran 2 of my guns over the chrony using 7.9 grain CPHPs.
#1. "1993" 2100 with 10 pumps=638 FPS 07.10 FPE.
#2 "1980" 766 with 10 pumps=704 FPS 08.70 FPE (+1.6).
Both guns are stock, in near new condition and both have the two piece metal/plastic piston.
The plastic pistons are different between the two.
The 766 plastic piston is .020" longer than the 2100 piston.
Perhaps there is credence to the old myth that the early models had more power?
Maybe we should call the MythBusters.
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Ran 2 of my guns over the chrony using 14.3 grain CPHPs.
#1. "1993" 2100 with 10 pumps=638 FPS 12.92 FPE.
#2 "1980" 766 with 10 pumps=704 FPS 15.73 FPE (+2.81).
Both guns are stock, in near new condition and both have the two piece metal/plastic piston.
The plastic pistons are different between the two.
The 766 plastic piston is .020" longer than the 2100 piston.
Perhaps there is credence to the old myth that the early models had more power?
Maybe we should call the MythBusters.
Yep, I found out the hard way. I tried to stick a first generation 766 metal rod with piston into my AM77. Guess what!? I couldn't close the forearm. :o
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Man I love that brass probe I wonder how much it adds itself.
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Ran 2 of my guns over the chrony using 14.3 grain CPHPs.
#1. "1993" 2100 with 10 pumps=638 FPS 12.92 FPE.
#2 "1980" 766 with 10 pumps=704 FPS 15.73 FPE (+2.81).
Both guns are stock, in near new condition and both have the two piece metal/plastic piston.
The plastic pistons are different between the two.
The 766 plastic piston is .020" longer than the 2100 piston.
Perhaps there is credence to the old myth that the early models had more power?
Maybe we should call the MythBusters.
Yep, I found out the hard way. I tried to stick a first generation 766 metal rod with piston into my AM77. Guess what!? I couldn't close the forearm. :o
The small .020" difference in the piston length shouldn't prevent the pump arm from closing with the rubber cup seal.
I believe the reason you couldn't close the pump arm was because of the difference in stroke between the versions.
A 766 pump tube has a much shorter stroke by about 3/8" or about 4 5/8".
It has a longer valve body, different pump tube and pump link to match.
The AM77/2100 has a stroke of about 5" so you can't mix and match between the two.
It's all or nothing.
The entire tube including the 766 valve and pump link needs to be swapped.
I'm thinking you swapped the pump tube but used the AM77 pump link?
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Ran 2 of my guns over the chrony using 14.3 grain CPHPs.
#1. "1993" 2100 with 10 pumps=638 FPS 12.92 FPE.
#2 "1980" 766 with 10 pumps=704 FPS 15.73 FPE (+2.81).
Do you mean 7.9 gr CPHP @ 7.1 and 8.7 FPE?
Either way, those are good velocities.
On another note, I cleaned the barrel on my new 2100, mounted a scope, and put 10 JSB 8.44 into .309 ctc at 10 yards with 6 pumps. Only other pellet I tried for accuracy so far was CPHP, and they didn't do as well. Trigger pull measures 4lb 12oz. Although it's long and heavy, I can feel a notch at the very end of the pull which makes the beak predictable almost like a two stage. For sure, this little gun is worth some tinkering. That stock, though...
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I was feeling frisky the other day after trying out my updated 2100, so I decided to break open my MK-177 and see if there were any opportunities for improvement.
First think I noticed is you can tell it is a modern design. Much fewer pieces than the 2100, and easier to reassemble etc. The bolt is one piece, and the barrel is thicker than the 2100 and is tightly attached to the breach / barrel support. So no need for the old tape mod at that location. The front of the barrel is pretty firmly gripped by the "flash suppressor", so no need to tape there either. After a thorough once over, I decided there were only two east mods that would make any improvement. I added a second washer between the valve and barrel as it seemed to be a loose fit. Then I routed out a seat for the spare O-ring Tack Driver 10 sent me into the (plastic) breach with my new Dremmel tool to make a seal when the bolt is inserted. Pics below!
Steve
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Ran 2 of my guns over the chrony using 14.3 grain CPHPs.
#1. "1993" 2100 with 10 pumps=638 FPS 12.92 FPE.
#2 "1980" 766 with 10 pumps=704 FPS 15.73 FPE (+2.81).
Do you mean 7.9 gr CPHP @ 7.1 and 8.7 FPE?
Either way, those are good velocities.
On another note, I cleaned the barrel on my new 2100, mounted a scope, and put 10 JSB 8.44 into .309 ctc at 10 yards with 6 pumps. Only other pellet I tried for accuracy so far was CPHP, and they didn't do as well. Trigger pull measures 4lb 12oz. Although it's long and heavy, I can feel a notch at the very end of the pull which makes the beak predictable almost like a two stage. For sure, this little gun is worth some tinkering. That stock, though...
Duh yes, I've been testing my 2200 and it bled over into that test.
Too much eggnog!
Thanks for catching that and letting me know. I'll edit it.
My 2100 likes H&N Barracuda Match or FTTs, Barracuda Hunter Extremes are also good
in my other 17 cal guns but haven't tried them in my 2100.
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Ran 2 of my guns over the chrony using 14.3 grain CPHPs.
#1. "1993" 2100 with 10 pumps=638 FPS 12.92 FPE.
#2 "1980" 766 with 10 pumps=704 FPS 15.73 FPE (+2.81).
Both guns are stock, in near new condition and both have the two piece metal/plastic piston.
The plastic pistons are different between the two.
The 766 plastic piston is .020" longer than the 2100 piston.
Perhaps there is credence to the old myth that the early models had more power?
Maybe we should call the MythBusters.
Yep, I found out the hard way. I tried to stick a first generation 766 metal rod with piston into my AM77. Guess what!? I couldn't close the forearm. :o
The small .020" difference in the piston length shouldn't prevent the pump arm from closing with the rubber cup seal.
I believe the reason you couldn't close the pump arm was because of the difference in stroke between the versions.
A 766 pump tube has a much shorter stroke by about 3/8" or about 4 5/8".
It has a longer valve body, different pump tube and pump link to match.
The AM77/2100 has a stroke of about 5" so you can't mix and match between the two.
It's all or nothing.
The entire tube including the 766 valve and pump link needs to be swapped.
I'm thinking you swapped the pump tube but used the AM77 pump link?
Ahhhh ok I see. I think I remember something to the fact but it was so long ago.
During that time I had mixed 766 parts everywhere. I also had to replace the model "A" 766 pump tube assembly with a "C" version because the original combined valve/transfer port was too fouled up to repair.
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The 766 has a longer rivet in the pump arm linkage protruding out of either side. The pump tube has been cut out to allow clearance so the pump arm can be fully closed. My 2200 magnum tube (for instance) does not have these clearance notches cut into it. The pump arm linkage will not interchange unless you make the clearance notches or , as I did when putting the black stock and forearm (pump handle) from the 766 on the 2200, just swap the pump handle on the 2200 hardware.
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Well, I went ahead and bought a Caldwell chrony and it arrived yesterday. Went to shoot a couple strings to compare my #s to the stock 2100, and I can't get it to read any of my shots. Keep getting a #3 error. Back she goes to Amazon. :-[
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Well, I went ahead and bought a Caldwell chrony and it arrived yesterday. Went to shoot a couple strings to compare my #s to the stock 2100, and I can't get it to read any of my shots. Keep getting a #3 error. Back she goes to Amazon. :-[
Iirc, a #3 error means the rear sensor isn't reading. It might be worth trying another Caldwell. Mine is super reliable under the sky and indoors with the light kit.
Good luck!
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I did a bit of research before I bought my chrono and ended up buying the ProChrono Digital with the usb connection for the laptop. I put a couple Harbor Freight led lights on it and the $2 AA battery adaptor. I'm real happy with it. Had if for about 3 years now.