GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Hatsan Airguns => Topic started by: chet on October 30, 2017, 10:57:15 PM
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my son just got a 135 qe, he shot about 100 shots tonight to break it in, with the iron sights it is fairly accurate and the trigger is not adjusted yet, before i get into making adjustments, maybe some hatsan owners can give me some ideas on do's and dont's seems to have quite some creep and is a heavy pull out of the box.
thanks
chet
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Go to youtube and search Mike Ellingsworth. He is the go to for Hatsan info.
Before you adjust the trigger, you have the Quattro type, remember that the trigger is designed to be pulled at roughly a 30 - 45 degree upward angle, not straight back like a normal trigger. Pulling the trigger, at the recommended upward angle, makes a world of difference in the weight.
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Definitely what longhunter said about trigger pull. Easy way I found to remember is my thumb is always basically straight up and down on the back of the stock just below the safety, I just try and think of it as squeezing my thumb and index finger together. Along with Mike Ellingsworth, Rick Eutsler also has one and if memory serves, he talks about the stronger piston and it's effects on trigger pull in his.
Something else that will come into play is how much extra that trigger is holding back as the 135 has a more powerful piston than say a Model 95 so the adjustments, while they'll work and help, won't get you as light a trigger as that 95. Too light and the sear won't be able to hold the piston back when you cock the rifle.
Hopefully that made sense :)
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Go to youtube and search Mike Ellingsworth. He is the go to for Hatsan info.
Before you adjust the trigger, you have the Quattro type, remember that the trigger is designed to be pulled at roughly a 30 - 45 degree upward angle, not straight back like a normal trigger. Pulling the trigger, at the recommended upward angle, angle makes a world of difference in the weight.
The picture below demonstrates what longhunter is talking about. When pulling the Quatro trigger, allow your finger to rest on the trigger guard and follow the upward curvature of the trigger guard as you pull the trigger. You are basically using the guard as a finger rest and guide. See the picture below. If you call Hatsan USA, their service Tec's will tell you to pull the trigger with an upward angle. The picture show how to do this using the trigger guard to guide your shot. My Best Wishes to you Sir - Tom
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I won't go into changing screws but will give you the basic trigger adjustment for the quattro trigger. There are three screws total, third being behind the trigger. This is unscrewed until no resistance (there is a spring under it) then turn back in 1/8th turn. Just enough to hold spring under in place. That provides least lbs of pull. The two screws up front are for first and second stage. The first screw, barrel side of trigger, screw all the way in. This pushes the trigger plate down and lessens contact with sear which makes for a cleaner break. Stock screws are kept short for safety reasons so just put screw all the way in. Second screw, closest to trigger, is to adjust the length of first stage. This screw literally hovers over the same trigger plate, the distance above plate is same as length of travel first stage. This you adjust to your liking. Note that any change to first screw will change depth of trigger plate so changes first stage distance too.
In nutshell: screw behind trigger is turned out to reduce lbs of pull, screw furthest front of trigger is length of second stage (put all in with stock screw), and screw just in front of trigger is adjusted to your taste for length of first stage.
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i did take a look at the trigger screws, for starters, both the screws were bottomed out, i don't think it was tampered with by a previous owner, because the gun was purchased as new, so is it possible they were bottomed out from the factory, only thing i can see i may have to install a little longer screws. does anyone one know what thread size these are
chet
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3x.5mm (3mm diameter, .5 thread pitch).
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You can take those first two screws out. I brought one to the store to find the right size replacement. You'll note they are rounded on end to rock on trigger plate for smoother pull. I'd bought a tiny nut to unthread after grinding screw ends. Not sure if it's needed but for few cents it ensures you can fix the threads if damaged when grinding. I used a dremmel.
Without taking the trigger group out of gun finding the length of screw is educated guesswork. If too long you won't be able to cock the gun. It doesn't take much to get second stage crisp. I'd mark the length of stock screw and start there increasing 1/3 turn between shots. Did mine visually and achieved a scary hair trigger, ground the end touch more instead of unscewing and now it could use more length. It doesn't take much length at all.
If you plan to take the trigger group out make sure to watch video or read up on replacing the long pin that holds it in with short wood dowel so it doesn't come apart. Can be a real pain figuring out how it all goes back together the first time. A sear is flipped backwards and attached to spring- the pin that holds the assembly in gun is the pivot pin to that sear, needs short replacement to hold in place.
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about how much longer did you make the new screws
chet
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Go to youtube and search Mike Ellingsworth. He is the go to for Hatsan info.
Before you adjust the trigger, you have the Quattro type, remember that the trigger is designed to be pulled at roughly a 30 - 45 degree upward angle, not straight back like a normal trigger. Pulling the trigger, at the recommended upward angle, angle makes a world of difference in the weight.
The picture below demonstrates what longhunter is talking about. When pulling the Quatro trigger, allow your finger to rest on the trigger guard and follow the upward curvature of the trigger guard as you pull the trigger. You are basically using the guard as a finger rest and guide. See the picture below. If you call Hatsan USA, their service Tec's will tell you to pull the trigger with an upward angle. The picture show how to do this using the trigger guard to guide your shot. My Best Wishes to you Sir - Tom
+1 8) :D 8)
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I would suggest buying 20 mm long screws, putting a nice round point on the end, and then screw them in and start experimenting. The three Quattros I've messed with all took different length screws to get the triggers nice, mark the length, then cut them and dress the end again. I don't think any of them required any significant increase in length, something like an additional 3 mm in length? I don't remember for certain.
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20mm seems way too long but I'm OLD and CRS! Anyhoo, I DO agree that about 3mm longer than OEM would be a good guess, wouldn't need to be more than that for sure. Just take the OEM out and get one a bit longer at the hardware store.
JMHO
Ed
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You don't have to buy longer screws. Remove just the trigger, and file down the part of the trigger that is under the front screw. You only need to remove about 2mm.
That's all I do, and I guarantee it'll be more than enough to give you a scary trigger.
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I can't get my head wrapped around you folks talking about having to throw out all you learned about trigger disipline in order to shoot these Hatsans. Do you find yourselves pulling up at a 45 on everything else you shoot afterwards?
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No. The shape of the hatsan trigger kind of dictates the way it's held. Closest I can come to explaining it is, think of the rear trigger on a double barrel shotgun.
I don't have any problem with switching from that to, say, my 48.
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Yeah, I'm with longhunter. Is the Quattro a little different than the triggers on my other guns? Yes, but I don't have any more trouble going from the Quattro to any of my other guns than I do switching from an automatic to a revolver and back. Might take a few shots to get the feel again either way, but it comes quickly.
Haven't tried filing the trigger yet, but I may have to. I also have used needle shim washers for motorcycle carbs to space the screw out a bit so I can leave the screw a little longer than needed.
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I can't get my head wrapped around you folks talking about having to throw out all you learned about trigger disipline in order to shoot these Hatsans. Do you find yourselves pulling up at a 45 on everything else you shoot afterwards?
I don't have any problems going from my Quattros, to the cheap Gamo clones in my less expensive Hatty's (although they've all been tweaked to pull smoother) to the Rekord triggers in my HW95 or R9.
I kind of want to use the term "muscle memory" because it's just second nature at least for me to pick up any of my rifles and know what to expect with the trigger and just shoot it. My finger just pulls the way it needs to, without me really thinking about it, for whatever rifle i'm shooting.
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I also removed the trigger blade and 1st/2nd stage screws and filed the trigger down approximately 3mm. Rounded and polished the contact points of the screws,added a little bit of moly and now have the trigger set to be Very Good. Just be careful!!
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Won't go into what I have done to mine, because it isn't something that someone without some serious experience should attemp. But, suffice it to say, my trigger breaks like glass at just 8 ounces.
These Quattro triggers can be made very nice. Now, if I could just figure out how to make the trigger pull back, instead of up.
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I won't go into changing screws but will give you the basic trigger adjustment for the quattro trigger. There are three screws total, third being behind the trigger. This is unscrewed until no resistance (there is a spring under it) then turn back in 1/8th turn. Just enough to hold spring under in place. That provides least lbs of pull. The two screws up front are for first and second stage. The first screw, barrel side of trigger, screw all the way in. This pushes the trigger plate down and lessens contact with sear which makes for a cleaner break. Stock screws are kept short for safety reasons so just put screw all the way in. Second screw, closest to trigger, is to adjust the length of first stage. This screw literally hovers over the same trigger plate, the distance above plate is same as length of travel first stage. This you adjust to your liking. Note that any change to first screw will change depth of trigger plate so changes first stage distance too.
In nutshell: screw behind trigger is turned out to reduce lbs of pull, screw furthest front of trigger is length of second stage (put all in with stock screw), and screw just in front of trigger is adjusted to your taste for length of first stage.
I thought the trigger was great as is on my 135, but this is great info above in case you need to make adjustments.
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I won't go into changing screws but will give you the basic trigger adjustment for the quattro trigger. There are three screws total, third being behind the trigger. This is unscrewed until no resistance (there is a spring under it) then turn back in 1/8th turn. Just enough to hold spring under in place. That provides least lbs of pull. The two screws up front are for first and second stage. The first screw, barrel side of trigger, screw all the way in. This pushes the trigger plate down and lessens contact with sear which makes for a cleaner break. Stock screws are kept short for safety reasons so just put screw all the way in. Second screw, closest to trigger, is to adjust the length of first stage. This screw literally hovers over the same trigger plate, the distance above plate is same as length of travel first stage. This you adjust to your liking. Note that any change to first screw will change depth of trigger plate so changes first stage distance too.
In nutshell: screw behind trigger is turned out to reduce lbs of pull, screw furthest front of trigger is length of second stage (put all in with stock screw), and screw just in front of trigger is adjusted to your taste for length of first stage.
I thought the trigger was great as is on my 135, but this is great info above in case you need to make adjustments.
+1!
I was already familiar with the adjustments but gotta say this is the clearest, most concise and easy to understand instruction on how to adjust the Quattro trigger that I've seen. Great job Garrett! ;)
Ed
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I don't mind a heavy pull on a trigger, but I don't like a lot of creep in mine. I like about a 3 lbs trigger, any "shorter" and it get too dangerous for me. JMO
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The trigger pivot point on the quarto is way forward of the trigger blade.
I believe that is why the straight pull back does not work so well.... ::)
-Y