GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Machine Shop Talk & AG Parts Machining => Topic started by: Masochisti on October 14, 2017, 04:11:41 PM
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Finally finished and got it uploaded:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2586045 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2586045)
Works really good on my Hatsan .22 cal. Already printed second (longer) one with PETG and canīt wait to test it out.
Any other fellows with 3d printers out there?
(https://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/46/bd/18/03/f1/6a9f9417a392e0c6524e228e95afec77_preview_featured.jpg)
(https://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/4f/8e/ed/14/9b/5a02c2c1243994c79115ef94d55fd420_preview_featured.jpg)
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That looks awful big for the AT44 .22
Not knowing what that cost to print? I'd do the fuel filter LDC
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looks great , I have a 3d printer, I love not having to machine non structural complex parts .. Jeff, that probably cost him 50 cents to print , including the electric bill
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That looks awful big for the AT44 .22
Not knowing what that cost to print? I'd do the fuel filter LDC
Lens and the angle of the photo makes it look like that, its really no that big and only weights around 120grams. Total cost for everything was around 2usd (1.85).
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i love the way the ldc looks did you print end caps then use a tap to cut the 1/2 20 threads in it and what do you guys recomed when buying a 3d printer would this work or be better to go bigger
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whats the best to start out with anet 8?????????? how hard is it to learn cura soft ware
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That's a very expensive LDC, lol. I am wondering if you shortened it by a couple of baffles and reduced the diameter some would it still work as well. It's a little large, but I bet it works well.
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Matti, looks great. Have you done any before/after sound checks in decibels ? I have a 3D printer and a Hatsan Bullpup so I am very interested.
Thanks for sharing.
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looks nice .. as far as size .. if it were a 2" diameter and put my sound level at a true whisper level, i would not care about the size ...
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Cool design. looks like offset K baffles. If that isn't quiet what you wanted in sound reduction or if you wanted to experiment... you could do the same basic design but replace the first 4 baffles with large open chambers. K's are great for thermally expanding gasses. I'd say they are fairly good for compressed gas also. The dynamic is obviously different and compressed gas likes the room to expand with a bit to cause turbulence. Makes me want a printer.
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I made these with my brothers cr-10 printer and petg
1.125" o.d.
Extremely effective.Tge Hatsan Q.E. can not compete.
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I just ordered a Raise3d N2 with a 12x12x24 print area and has a hot extuder to print the fancy materials. Be a week or so before I get it. Have some cool stuff to make with it so I hope it works as well I think it will.
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whats the best to start out with anet 8?????????? how hard is it to learn cura soft ware
IMO you are going to scrap some parts before you get a design perfect, I got close last winter with the same model printer, there are some easier design formats to work with , but I feel they are limited to detail. I have not messed with printing anything this winter, and may put the 3D printer up for sale.
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With 3d printing, the initial cost of about $300 is all you need. The printing spool is about $15 and will last you a lot of projects before it runs out. You can recoup initial cost after printing a few LDC or scope wheel.
One limitation is the size of printing beds. To make big projects like a gun stock, you have to do it in pieces, then glue them together.
For LDC, I've printed baffles, then used an alum tube for the outside. Lately, I've been doing square all 3d printed LDC.
If you like designing, it's a good investment. It's a learning process. Just like tinkering with airguns.
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I just ordered a Raise3d N2 with a 12x12x24 print area and has a hot extuder to print the fancy materials. Be a week or so before I get it. Have some cool stuff to make with it so I hope it works as well I think it will.
nevr heard of it , that's a huge print area, the cr10- I have is about 12 by 12 by 14.8 ..24 in any axis is tremendous.. gotta look it up.. ok I looked , its 12 by 12 by 12 , the one I saw.. Insane machine with dual extruders, very $$$$$$...
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Expensive but besides the build volume it can print a lot of different filaments: PLA/ PLA+/ ABS/ PC/ PETG/ R-flex/ TPU/HIPS/ Bronze-filled/ Wood-filled
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that thing should be a beast, 120 lb printer ! dual extrusion is awesome also.. If youre new to 3d printing , get on a maintenance schedule.. I used to watch youtube videos which are fine to an extent.. There is 1 million videos on how to clean a nozzle.. Nozzles are 1.50 each on ebay... I don't clean nozzles anymore, swap em out , get back to printing.. good luck and have fun
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Another thing I am considering is a 3=D scanner , for replicating parts, the main reason I guess I bought a small 3-D printer, last I shopped a scanner would run about 100 more than a lower end printer.
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Another thing I am considering is a 3=D scanner , for replicating parts, the main reason I guess I bought a small 3-D printer, last I shopped a scanner would run about 100 more than a lower end printer.
use the Xbox scanner, its 40 dollars ,there is a youtube tutorial by a guy named dave wirth I think
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Ive been 3D printing for years and have owned 5 different printers and have printed in about all the plastics available, Its super fun and I do a lot of R&D for fitment etc. with it. I currently have two ROBO printers a R1 and a C2.
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I think thats awesome. I would like to dabble in that but, I can barely work a computer, which means the only thing I would be able to print is a blob probably. LOL
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I just ordered a Raise3d N2 with a 12x12x24 print area and has a hot extuder to print the fancy materials. Be a week or so before I get it. Have some cool stuff to make with it so I hope it works as well I think it will.
Cool Nick, maybe once you get it figured out and start making things you could make me several of these. I have been trying to find someone who is making them to sell and I keep striking out.
Bill C!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kEh3tYRWYRw&t=2s (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kEh3tYRWYRw&t=2s)
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I was planning to design these too, but I realized a potentially irritating flaw of these types of design.
They drop a pellet into your palm, which you then have to somehow get it into your fingers to load it. I don't know how annoying it will be, but I think pellet pouches might be better.
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I just ordered a Raise3d N2 with a 12x12x24 print area and has a hot extuder to print the fancy materials. Be a week or so before I get it. Have some cool stuff to make with it so I hope it works as well I think it will.
Cool Nick, maybe once you get it figured out and start making things you could make me several of these. I have been trying to find someone who is making them to sell and I keep striking out.
Bill C!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kEh3tYRWYRw&t=2s (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kEh3tYRWYRw&t=2s)
I think Travis offers that type of service for people...
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I was planning to design these too, but I realized a potentially irritating flaw of these types of design.
They drop a pellet into your palm, which you then have to somehow get it into your fingers to load it. I don't know how annoying it will be, but I think pellet pouches might be better.
I have an original Lead Shed. Dropping the pellet into your palm is not a problem. Pretty easy and intuitive to reorient and load the pellet.
I also have a smaller 3D printed dispenser incorporated into a scope wheel.
JMJ
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I was planning to design these too, but I realized a potentially irritating flaw of these types of design.
They drop a pellet into your palm, which you then have to somehow get it into your fingers to load it. I don't know how annoying it will be, but I think pellet pouches might be better.
I have an original Lead Shed. Dropping the pellet into your palm is not a problem. Pretty easy and intuitive to reorient and load the pellet.
I also have a smaller 3D printed dispenser incorporated into a scope wheel.
JMJ
Very Cool!
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Ive been 3D printing for years and have owned 5 different printers and have printed in about all the plastics available, Its super fun and I do a lot of R&D for fitment etc. with it. I currently have two ROBO printers a R1 and a C2.
Travis, do you make these pellet dispensers? I want a few and have been searching everywhere and can't find anybody that still makes them. Thanks Bill C!
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I was planning to design these too, but I realized a potentially irritating flaw of these types of design.
They drop a pellet into your palm, which you then have to somehow get it into your fingers to load it. I don't know how annoying it will be, but I think pellet pouches might be better.
I have an original Lead Shed. Dropping the pellet into your palm is not a problem. Pretty easy and intuitive to reorient and load the pellet.
I also have a smaller 3D printed dispenser incorporated into a scope wheel.
JMJ
Thank you for sharing your experience. Gonna start working on a design now.
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I was planning to design these too, but I realized a potentially irritating flaw of these types of design.
They drop a pellet into your palm, which you then have to somehow get it into your fingers to load it. I don't know how annoying it will be, but I think pellet pouches might be better.
I have an original Lead Shed. Dropping the pellet into your palm is not a problem. Pretty easy and intuitive to reorient and load the pellet.
I also have a smaller 3D printed dispenser incorporated into a scope wheel.
JMJ
Thank you for sharing your experience. Gonna start working on a design now.
Well Donut once you get yours designed and working if you want to sell a couple let me know, I would love to buy a couple. I can't find anybody with 3D printer that will make me some!
Thanks Bill C!
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It is not just having a 3d printer. You have to take the time to design what it is you are making. The piece you want is a multi piece part and takes some thought and time to draw it. Then often times print it a few times to perfect something like that. 3d printers are very slow and it may take 3 or 4 hours to print the two parts each time. If you have the drawing ready to be printed it would a lot easier to get someone to print it. For me, my printer has been printing nearly non stop since I purchased it. I am making a complicated set of parts and each part takes around 12 hours to print.
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It is not just having a 3d printer. You have to take the time to design what it is you are making. The piece you want is a multi piece part and takes some thought and time to draw it. Then often times print it a few times to perfect something like that. 3d printers are very slow and it may take 3 or 4 hours to print the two parts each time. If you have the drawing ready to be printed it would a lot easier to get someone to print it. For me, my printer has been printing nearly non stop since I purchased it. I am making a complicated set of parts and each part takes around 12 hours to print.
When you say drawing do you mean a hand drawing on paper. I do have a few pictures of the metal one in parts somewhere. I don't really understand how it all works. I assumed you had to know codes and such to input into the printer. I stink with anything computer wise. Thanks Bill C!
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Not codes. You draw in the computer what you want to print. It is a 3d drawing from software that is designed to take the 3d image and write code for the printer's software. Then the printer software creates the actual code for the printer called slicing.
That's the drawing you need. I use either inventor or fusion360 to draw. Then save as a 3d print file. Then use a slicer to get the code into the printer.
My print stopped this morning after 23 hours of printing. I put a new print file in which will take 15 hours. Then I have one more print that will probably take 12 hours. It is only a prototype so I will most like have to do at least one more time. 3d printing is not for production.
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Not codes. You draw in the computer what you want to print. It is a 3d drawing from software that is designed to take the 3d image and write code for the printer's software. Then the printer software creates the actual code for the printer called slicing.
That's the drawing you need. I use either inventor or fusion360 to draw. Then save as a 3d print file. Then use a slicer to get the code into the printer.
My print stopped this morning after 23 hours of printing. I put a new print file in which will take 15 hours. Then I have one more print that will probably take 12 hours. It is only a prototype so I will most like have to do at least one more time. 3d printing is not for production.
Thanks Nick. No wonder I can't find anyone making those anymore LOL. Lots of work!
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Not codes. You draw in the computer what you want to print. It is a 3d drawing from software that is designed to take the 3d image and write code for the printer's software. Then the printer software creates the actual code for the printer called slicing.
That's the drawing you need. I use either inventor or fusion360 to draw. Then save as a 3d print file. Then use a slicer to get the code into the printer.
My print stopped this morning after 23 hours of printing. I put a new print file in which will take 15 hours. Then I have one more print that will probably take 12 hours. It is only a prototype so I will most like have to do at least one more time. 3d printing is not for production.
Thanks Nick. No wonder I can't find anyone making those anymore LOL. Lots of work!
Yeah. Not only that, designing something for 3d printing tend to be more of a PITA than for CNC machining. 3d printers are not so good with overhangs, which means everything has to have something below it. This usually means normal one-piece part would have to be printed in two halves then glued together. 3d printers are also pretty bad with really fine details, normally the finest you can get in 0.4mm in x and y, 0.1mm in Z
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With 3d printing, the initial cost of about $300 is all you need. The printing spool is about $15 and will last you a lot of projects before it runs out. You can recoup initial cost after printing a few LDC or scope wheel.
One limitation is the size of printing beds. To make big projects like a gun stock, you have to do it in pieces, then glue them together.
For LDC, I've printed baffles, then used an alum tube for the outside. Lately, I've been doing square all 3d printed LDC.
If you like designing, it's a good investment. It's a learning process. Just like tinkering with airguns.
The square design is interesting. Got any pics of one mounted?
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Found a guy that is trying to get the pellet dispenser perfected on FB. Not sure if he will sell them, but am very hopeful. Bill C!
https://www.facebook.com/R3DPARTS/ (https://www.facebook.com/R3DPARTS/)
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here's a square LDC on a 1720T. Next time I print one, maybe i'll include something like a stripper in one of the cavities. I glue the top on.
For prints with overhangs, the printing utility can build supports which you can peel off after printing. 3d printing is like air gun tuning. A lot of variables to play with. Sometimes a lot of frustration. But when you get it right, a lot of satisfaction as well.
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This might sound stupid. But have any of you tried to make bullets or projectiles.
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here's a square LDC on a 1720T. Next time I print one, maybe i'll include something like a stripper in one of the cavities. I glue the top on.
For prints with overhangs, the printing utility can build supports which you can peel off after printing. 3d printing is like air gun tuning. A lot of variables to play with. Sometimes a lot of frustration. But when you get it right, a lot of satisfaction as well.
that's wild !