GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => PCP/CO2/HPA Air Gun Gates "The Darkside" => Topic started by: Smokehogan on October 04, 2017, 05:19:15 AM
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Okay so I have fully disassembled my disco. When I pushed out the valve I noticed two scratches on it which looked like they may have come from a bur inside the tube. I remember modding my 1322 for the first time and there were burs up the yin yang in which I had to sand down before putting the valve back in. O-rings look fine. I was wondering if this is normal for disco tubes? And if not, could I/should I try and sand down any bur before I put the valve back in? Would it even be smart because theres precious threads in there for the fill adapter!? Or should I just lubricate it a lot and carefully slide it past the fill adapter threads?
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I would give it a light touch up with fine grit sand paper while you have it apart, why not? A lot of guns come with sharp edges that were not smoothed out after the manufacturing and by some luck the o rings were not (or maybe they were) damaged during the first assembly.
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Just don't sand the threads. I thought the disco valve got inserted from the rear of the tube (past all them sharp slots) so it doesn't pass the fill assembly threads anyhow?
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Just don't sand the threads. I thought the disco valve got inserted from the rear of the tube (past all them sharp slots) so it doesn't pass the fill assembly threads anyhow?
Yes, it should be installed/removed from the front, ie fill assy end. When installing put lots of silicone grease in those threads.
With scratches on valve, ditch those O-rings for new. Nothing more aggravating than assembling and then finding out you have a leak. I'd assemble the valve, gauge and gauge block, and fill assy, and then pressurize and verify no leaks, before assembling the rest of the gun.
The gauge hole is a typical spot to find burrs.
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The manufacturer should run a sanding drum through the air (or CO2) tubes after all holes and slots are machined but given the number of burrs that at experienced it seems this is not done. :-[
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Our owne Travis of ART formall WAR, suggested using a ball hone. Has a vid on it at YouTube. He was working on an MRod, but same-same.
I need to pick one up. probably a 3/4". I need to check first. I used a split tipped oak dowel rod and shop role in 320 then 400 grit in mine at first teardown. But a ball hone would do better. Found them on the Bay. About 20 bucks. Grrrr!!!
Even though the hammer is polished, and the tube polished, the hammer is still galling the tube. Just ordered a synthetic hammer from Rocker1 today! ;)
Knife
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And to add to Knifemakers info,
Here is a site for the "Ball Hones" also known as Flex-hones, and you can see they come in lots of sizes and grits,
and FWIW, I use these hones for lots of clean up in the PB arena etc.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ANHXMU/ref=biss_dp_sa1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ANHXMU/ref=biss_dp_sa1)
HTH,
Tia,
Don