GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Beeman Airguns => Topic started by: jlp920 on August 31, 2017, 09:43:51 PM
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1) will it damage the gun if you pump it twice due to forgetting that you'd already loaded it?
2) is it OK to dry-fire it?
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I don't think so and I hope not
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1) no
2) yes
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Thank you
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Love that P17! It's awesome with a red dot too!
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Me too, getting used to its quirks but I can see many pellets in its future.
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Mine started liking the cheap Daisy precision wadcutters, but after I cleaned it and re lubed it, RWS diablos 7.0g basics hit on the money from 25yards. I also tried some heavier H&W Barracuda Match 10.63g ( I think) and they work well too but they obviously hit about an inch lower due to weight, but they hit harder.
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Hmmm...seals blew after about 20 shots. Back to Pyramid.
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They're sending me a new one and I can keep the old.
Pyramid rocks. I'll tear down the broken one to see if it's an easy fix.
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That's awesome! Probably costs them more to ship that back then it's worth for them but that works out for you! It's easy to open up and check the deals. Just unscrew the set screw at the end of the piston, push that bar thru and out, then pull out the piston. Super simple. Hopefully it's just a bad seal cause those are cheap and I got some off ebay quick. JIC. Good luck!
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I think you'll find this quite helpful
http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/2009/02/derricks-on-beeman-p17-overhaul-part-1.html (http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/2009/02/derricks-on-beeman-p17-overhaul-part-1.html)
It helped me immensely.
Good luck.
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Dry firing damages a P-17?
The damage to a springer is done when the piston slams without any resistance. The P-17 doesn't have that and and all your doing is opening a valve and letting the air out. I don't dry fire it very often but maybe I don't understand the mechanics of a pneumatic airgun.
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Yeah, pretty good deal. Thanks for the tips.
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Hmmm--well, it's not the big o-ring, and that intake hole is smooth. Just blows air out the port
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It's the valve oring. .003 if I remember correctly. Follow the guide and you should be fine.
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I got it. It was just the sear had come loose and the hammer was holding the valve open.
Took me about an hour. Came loose again on the first shot. I need to modify something, probably the sear.
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A little off topic but still on the P17. I installed the cocking aid slide extender from Dan in Canada today. A few observations:
I used some rubber bands in place of the 2sided table supplied because I messed up the sticky tape 😡.
When tapping the holes for the screws, do not run the tap right through, it will make the hole too big and the screw won't fit. I found out the hard way. Luckily I messed up with only one screw! Just start the hole with the tap, just enough to allow the screw to catch and it will snug up nice and tight. I now have to figure out a way to tighten up the loose screw. You guys are free to advise lol.
Works fine with 3 screws though, a significant reduction in cocking effort and will not pinch hand nor shirt. One draw back is the lost cool factor of thumbing back the pseudo hammer like an old single action. Instead you have to reach through the slide from on top to depress the "hammer". Not a deal breaker for me.
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Tony, don't have a P17 in front of me but maybe you could rig up a hammer extension like used on some firearms that use a scope. The photo is just to show what I'm talking about:
(http://www.rifleshootermag.com/files/2013/08/marlin_model_336BL_2.jpg)
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Cobalt,
What a neat idea! I will try to rig something like that. Thanks