GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Air Gun Gate => Topic started by: FiveHole on August 12, 2010, 03:04:24 PM
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Hi fellas,
Very nice and informative forum here. I apologize for the noob question, but I am a bit confused about the use of silicone chamber oil in today's modern air guns - particularly my HW30S!
The Wiehrauch manual states that it is lubricated at the factory for life and needs no further internal lube. PA, where I purchased the air rifle, says to use a drop or two of silicone chamber lube every 2000 or so shots. I have read opposing opinions on the forums where tuners and those more knowledgeable than myself discourage adding anything to the compression chamber. What practice is correct and will enable me to enjoy this wonderful air rifle to its fullest? I have put a little over 2000 pieces of lead down its barrel already and do not want to damage it.
As a side note, I have recently returned to air-gunning after many years. After purchasing an inexpensive Mendoza RM200 and shooting over 8000 pellets through it, I decided to upgrade to a quality rifle. The HW30S represents a substantial investment for me. Plus, it serves as a physical therapy tool. Wonder if I can write it off on my taxes. :) Any help in keeping my rifle properly maintained is greatly appreciated. I did check through the library to try and find an answer. It is probably in plain sight, but I couldn't find it!
Thanks in advance for any help.
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Some folks use it, others don't. A drop or two (small drops) every 2000 rounds probably won't hurt it. There's a theory that it keeps the seal lubed. If you get adventurous down the road, you can pull it down, deburr any rough punch-outs in the compression tube, then lube the seal and spring. Will make it shoot better. Until then, enjoy it.
Note - Crosman Pelgun Oil is NOT springer chamber lube.
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Thanks RedFeather! Didn't think a drop or two would hurt, but I thought I'd better run it by more experienced air gunners. I have Crosman Silicone Chamber Oil and used it in the Mendoza, but was hesitant to put it into my HW30S.
The Mendoza is going to be my first attempt at a seal/spring and lube. I'm pretty sure the spring is broken. At least if it doesn't turn out well, it will be a good learning experience. Besides, I've gotten my money's worth out of it. I think the cost of the pellets that I shot through it was more expensive than the gun itself!!
Thanks again.
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Hi Fivehole, If it's a new HW 30 then you needn't worry for years but if it's second hand or one that's been stored unused for years then yes the piston seal may be dry, it just helps loosen things up, otherwise truth be told the grease etc from the spring even upon cocking leaves a slight film of lubricant on the inner surfaces of the cylinder this acts enough as lubricant for the piston seal and that's why cylinders are honed internally leaving very fine honing lines where the lubricant (traces of grease) can bed in to act as lubricant, this is why a spring gun should never be mirror polished inside contrary to what most think. Best way to add the silicone oil if you want is break the action but don't cock it, then put a drop or two of the oil in the transfer port, it will pool there as it's too thick to go in, then cock the gun, this will draw in the oil, uncock and repeat this a few times, this way you will know how much oil has gone down where as if you use a syringe you can't keep track of the amount you're squirting in there.
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You did real well choosing the HW30s, I have it's sister the Beeman R7. I have to warn you, you'll get spoiled w/ the German workmanship/quality/accuracy.
Enjoy, and post some pic's.
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If your silicone oil is so thick it has to be drawn into the transfer port via cocking it sounds like really high viscosity and maybe a blend with petroleum. I'm using pure and it drips almost like water. Main thing is, be sure it is pure. A good source is a hobby shop that services radio controlled cars. Guys use it in the shocks.
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Andrew, I purchased the HW30S new. Nice explanation of the lube in a fresh gun. I guess that explains the generous amount of lube applied by the factory. So, when you say "years," what would you estimate that would translate into pellets shot? Hate to admit this, but I've shot over 10,000 in 9 months. lol. Too much free time and paper targets.
Patton1, I do know what you mean. I bought the poor man's R7, but she is one fine rifle. Makes it hard to go back to any of my other guns. Yes, I have to hand it to the Germans on this one. Returning to AG's and buying this gun has been one of my better decisions - Unless you ask my wife!
RedFeather, never thought of RC shock oil. I'll have to remember that one.
Thanks all.
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Fivehole, I'd say now would be a good time for lubricant, Redfeather I've only ever used Beeman chamber oil which is real thick never had a diesel issue, I have pure like water 100% silicone ( it says on the container ) from a professional auto detailer for my tires not the stuff you buy off the shelf at an auto store but I don't reckon I'd put a non purpose product down one of my guns just in case, Beemans chamber oil is rated as one of the best on the market and was the best years ago but now there are others around, one thing for sure is it's high flash point and that's probably why it's thick it might have an added retardant whereas thin stuff to me sounds like it might detonate, you'd have to experiment on an old gun before using an unknown otherwise top brands like the one mentioned is tried and tested.