GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Diana Airguns => Topic started by: prosportfan on July 27, 2017, 02:47:54 PM
-
I have been wondering how or would you know if your sled on the 54 is ok or in need of adjustment. And if it does need adjustment, how is one to do it for the best/optimal performance?
-
There is an adjustment that puts more or less pressure on a steel ball to dampen sled movement.
See here: http://www.eddiecolwell.tzo.com/rws-54.htm (http://www.eddiecolwell.tzo.com/rws-54.htm)
-
I read that and didn't see no answer for adjusting just the addition of adding orings
-
IIRC, There is an allen screw under the spring that pushes the steel ball.
-
IIRC, There is an allen screw under the spring that pushes the steel ball.
I understand that but there has to be a certain amount of turns in around that are for ideal situations performance Etc
-
IIRC, There is an allen screw under the spring that pushes the steel ball.
I understand that but there has to be a certain amount of turns in around that are for ideal situations performance Etc
There is a detent on the rear sled carriage. It is under the rear stock screw. It holds the sled in place until the shot is fired. There should be just enough detent engagement to do that in any position that you may use the gun. If all of your shots are horizontal, you can set it very light. There should be minimum drag as the sled moves down the track.
This is how I would adjust it to begin with: Move the sled out of the detent (move it to the back). Tighten the detent screw until it just bottoms out. Back it out a little (1/4 turn). That is as tight as it should be. Loosen a little more if you want it looser, but don't go any tighter. If it continually falls off the detent before the shot, it is set too loose.
Don't adjust the detent while the sled is forward and engaged. When the detent is adjusted while engaged, it may not be loose enough to release the sled. But if it does break free, it will eventually wear a groove in the track, and then correct adjustment will no longer be possible.
-
IIRC, There is an allen screw under the spring that pushes the steel ball.
I understand that but there has to be a certain amount of turns in around that are for ideal situations performance Etc
There is a detent on the rear sled carriage. It is under the rear stock screw. It holds the sled in place until the shot is fired. There should be just enough detent engagement to do that in any position that you may use the gun. If all of your shots are horizontal, you can set it very light. There should be minimum drag as the sled moves down the track.
This is how I would adjust it to begin with: Move the sled out of the detent (move it to the back). Tighten the detent screw until it just bottoms out. Back it out a little (1/4 turn). That is as tight as it should be. Loosen a little more if you want it looser, but don't go any tighter. If it continually falls off the detent before the shot, it is set too loose.
Don't adjust the detent while the sled is forward and engaged. When the detent is adjusted while engaged, it may not be loose enough to release the sled. But if it does break free, it will eventually wear a groove in the track, and then correct adjustment will no longer be possible.
Scott, that's what I was looking for. And as for the others, thank you also.
Scott, when I cock the gun (sitting down), loaded it a pointed it horizontal then decided to pass on taking the shot then place the butt on my thigh muzzle pointed directly up, the actions slides down/rearward towards the butt. So with that being said, does that mean it's too loose? She is also at John in PA's as we speak. She got a pg2 with a oring seal. My next questions to you are:
1) what is your opinion on that kit?
2) what do you think/suggest/prefer kit wise like JM, vortek, oem etc and in what configurations?
Its 22cal and I prefer factory or maybe just a tad bit below factory power unless I can get away with more power without compromising accuracy, handling and feel. Thanks brother.
-
Move the action forward, tighten screw, then point straight up , loosen until a slight bump on the butt of the stock slides the action backwards.. This is what Hector recommends..
-
Move the action forward, tighten screw, then point straight up , loosen until a slight bump on the butt of the stock slides the action backwards.. This is what Hector recommends..
Isn't it set if you move it forward?
-
IIRC, There is an allen screw under the spring that pushes the steel ball.
I understand that but there has to be a certain amount of turns in around that are for ideal situations performance Etc
There is a detent on the rear sled carriage. It is under the rear stock screw. It holds the sled in place until the shot is fired. There should be just enough detent engagement to do that in any position that you may use the gun. If all of your shots are horizontal, you can set it very light. There should be minimum drag as the sled moves down the track.
This is how I would adjust it to begin with: Move the sled out of the detent (move it to the back). Tighten the detent screw until it just bottoms out. Back it out a little (1/4 turn). That is as tight as it should be. Loosen a little more if you want it looser, but don't go any tighter. If it continually falls off the detent before the shot, it is set too loose.
Don't adjust the detent while the sled is forward and engaged. When the detent is adjusted while engaged, it may not be loose enough to release the sled. But if it does break free, it will eventually wear a groove in the track, and then correct adjustment will no longer be possible.
Scott, that's what I was looking for. And as for the others, thank you also.
Scott, when I cock the gun (sitting down), loaded it a pointed it horizontal then decided to pass on taking the shot then place the butt on my thigh muzzle pointed directly up, the actions slides down/rearward towards the butt. So with that being said, does that mean it's too loose? She is also at John in PA's as we speak. She got a pg2 with a oring seal. My next questions to you are:
1) what is your opinion on that kit?
2) what do you think/suggest/prefer kit wise like JM, vortek, oem etc and in what configurations?
Its 22cal and I prefer factory or maybe just a tad bit below factory power unless I can get away with more power without compromising accuracy, handling and feel. Thanks brother.
With the gun pointed up, It should take a slight bump of the butt pad to release the detent. If you always shoot horizontal, it does not matter so much.
I have used Vortek springs, but always make my own kit/guides.
-
Move the action forward, tighten screw, then point straight up , loosen until a slight bump on the butt of the stock slides the action backwards.. This is what Hector recommends..
That can damage the detent hole if you try to bump it loose while it is over-tightened. Better to adjust the screw while the action is back (out of the hole). The only thing that should give when a detent releases is the detent spring.
-
My 56th will slide back if I lift the muzzle too high. I don't really care - I always shoot it horizontal - and have gotten used to pushing the action forward to re-seat the detent as I am settling it back down to take a shot.
Please post your before and after impressions on shot cycle smoothness and noise once you get it back from John. Mine shoots like a PCP so been hesitant to tune it, but think a new spring kit and guide might smooth it out.
-
My 56th will slide back if I lift the muzzle too high. I don't really care - I always shoot it horizontal - and have gotten used to pushing the action forward to re-seat the detent as I am settling it back down to take a shot.
Please post your before and after impressions on shot cycle smoothness and noise once you get it back from John. Mine shoots like a PCP so been hesitant to tune it, but think a new spring kit and guide might smooth it out.
Will do. My biggest hesitation is that I have read older posts of vortek kits not being what they are And advertised. Like people asked for 12fpe kits and were getting only 8-10fpe etc. Or asking for a .130 wire and getting a .128. Then there is the issue of the oring piston seal. That it was getting chewed up due to the crosshatching and so forth. But you never hear nothing bad about JM's products. Then I read people mix n matching parts like a aftermarket spring from JM with a vortek piston seal and a tesla breach seal or whatever. I have all the faith of John in PA but I wondered about what had other people's choices given them. I don't want a 12fpe rifle but a factory power very smooth gun
-
Will do. My biggest hesitation is that I have read older posts of vortek kits not being what they are And advertised. Like people asked for 12fpe kits and were getting only 8-10fpe etc. Or asking for a .130 wire and getting a .128. Then there is the issue of the oring piston seal. That it was getting chewed up due to the crosshatching and so forth. But you never hear nothing bad about JM's products. Then I read people mix n matching parts like a aftermarket spring from JM with a vortek piston seal and a tesla breach seal or whatever. I have all the faith of John in PA but I wondered about what had other people's choices given them. I don't want a 12fpe rifle but a factory power very smooth gun
The appearance of Vortek kits helped make availability of parts and home tuning available to more people, so in some cases I suspect Vortek installations were done by people who probably could turn the wrench but not understand the finer points of ensuring it produces the desired results. In your case John in PA is going to ensure you have the desire results. He's done several guns for me and he is top notch.
That said, I agree there is some truth to variability in Vortek's products. I have experienced it first hand a couple times. And also agree there is less rumor of such with JM products, but you probably have more experienced people using those parts as well who know how to deal with situations.
I wish John would experiment with using some of the JM products as I have to think certain gun/kit combinations might work better than others. Regardless, I bet you are going to be impressed with the new shot cycle when yu get it back from John. I just want to read about it to help me decide when to send him my 56th ;D
-
Sorry I meant loosen or tighten up the detent screw.. To adjust just slide the action forward, stand on end and test with a slight bump on the butt pad and then adjust.. You want it to move back with a slight bump that is all there is to it..
-
Will do. My biggest hesitation is that I have read older posts of vortek kits not being what they are And advertised. Like people asked for 12fpe kits and were getting only 8-10fpe etc. Or asking for a .130 wire and getting a .128. Then there is the issue of the oring piston seal. That it was getting chewed up due to the crosshatching and so forth. But you never hear nothing bad about JM's products. Then I read people mix n matching parts like a aftermarket spring from JM with a vortek piston seal and a tesla breach seal or whatever. I have all the faith of John in PA but I wondered about what had other people's choices given them. I don't want a 12fpe rifle but a factory power very smooth gun
The appearance of Vortek kits helped make availability of parts and home tuning available to more people, so in some cases I suspect Vortek installations were done by people who probably could turn the wrench but not understand the finer points of ensuring it produces the desired results. In your case John in PA is going to ensure you have the desire results. He's done several guns for me and he is top notch.
That said, I agree there is some truth to variability in Vortek's products. I have experienced it first hand a couple times. And also agree there is less rumor of such with JM products, but you probably have more experienced people using those parts as well who know how to deal with situations.
I wish John would experiment with using some of the JM products as I have to think certain gun/kit combinations might work better than others. Regardless, I bet you are going to be impressed with the new shot cycle when yu get it back from John. I just want to read about it to help me decide when to send him my 56th ;D
Will do brother and thank you
-
Besides all the good advice already given here that provides good starting points, let me add that YOUR HOLD on the gun should also be taken into account when doing the FINE tuning of the sled system.
Tighter holds will yield appreciably better results with more detente force.
Lighter holds benefit from very little detente force.
Scott H, as an experienced spring gun shooter, for sure uses very light holds, people that come from a long "career" of High Power/Service Rifle, or big game hunting will use much tighter holds.
How you develop your hold also depends on your favorite shooting position.
Scott H sits cross legged, then bends over and lets the gun rest on his knees/upper thigh with very little or no shoulder pressure, other shooters (like me) lock the gun between forward knee & hand and shoulder.
So, it is natural that Scott and I use different sled adjustments.
What is absolutely essential and true across the board is that you need an absolutely consistent trigger hand placement and pressure distribution. How you achieve this is up to you, and it has no bearing on the sled adjustments. It will reflect, though, on your groups' size and consistency of placement of the shot.
We are all different, and a true professional will always ask a bunch of questions before even starting a tune.
How YOU shoot is what needs to be taken into account, not what the tuner likes or dislikes.
There are technical matters that need to be heeded because they are supported by solid science, but on the question of style what matters is how YOU shoot.
HTH and let me know if I can be of further assistance.
HM
-
Besides all the good advice already given here that provides good starting points, let me add that YOUR HOLD on the gun should also be taken into account when doing the FINE tuning of the sled system.
Tighter holds will yield appreciably better results with more detente force.
Lighter holds benefit from very little detente force.
Scott H, as an experienced spring gun shooter, for sure uses very light holds, people that come from a long "career" of High Power/Service Rifle, or big game hunting will use much tighter holds.
How you develop your hold also depends on your favorite shooting position.
Scott H sits cross legged, then bends over and lets the gun rest on his knees/upper thigh with very little or no shoulder pressure, other shooters (like me) lock the gun between forward knee & hand and shoulder.
So, it is natural that Scott and I use different sled adjustments.
What is absolutely essential and true across the board is that you need an absolutely consistent trigger hand placement and pressure distribution. How you achieve this is up to you, and it has no bearing on the sled adjustments. It will reflect, though, on your groups' size and consistency of placement of the shot.
We are all different, and a true professional will always ask a bunch of questions before even starting a tune.
How YOU shoot is what needs to be taken into account, not what the tuner likes or dislikes.
There are technical matters that need to be heeded because they are supported by solid science, but on the question of style what matters is how YOU shoot.
HTH and let me know if I can be of further assistance.
HM
Very informative and greatly appreciated. Thank you