GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Vintage Air Gun Gate => Topic started by: Yng@hrt on April 28, 2017, 05:04:06 PM
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I found a nice Crosman 100 today that appears to be in really good condition. Problem is, I know nothing about these except it's a .177 cal & has a descent looking factory peep. Wood is in very good condition as is the metal. Can anyone tell me more about it, like how are they performance wise & what a good price would be. The guy is asking $130.00.
I know the 101 & 102 are the ones folks want but I don't want to pass this one up if its worth hanging on to.
Thanks in advance
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Isn't the 100 just the .177 version of the 101? Not sure why it would be worth less as its the quality made gun - in fact, I think .177 guns were less popular back in the day, so there were probably fewer made in .177 so they might be worth more????? though I don't actually know this.
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I have a 100 and love it. It's a '49 I believe with a brass barrel. It will drive tacks and likes a variety of pellets. Crosmans, Super Domes and not pellet fussy.
I don't know what they are going for but have heard they made 10 to 1 in favor of the 101. True or not I have no idea.
I was lucky that my wife found the ad in a local shopper magazine for sale by the original owner. She went out on her own and bought if for an anniversory gift.
He got it brand new as a teenager and had it rebuilt by an autorized Crosman repair shop. All i had to do was shoot it, got it for all of $50.00.
I see the .22's up for sale all the time but never a .177.
Of course She stole it and I would pay much more than $50.00 any day for either a 100 or 101.
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The 100 is just the 101 in .177 and yes they are rarer. $130 doesn't seem out of line if it's in good shape. If it holds air and shoots that's a good price I think. These are easy to seal though you need a tool. I paided $185 for my 1949 Sears model and it needed a reseal. You might want to look down the barrel to see if the rifling is good, some of these just have "ghost" rifling, just a quirk in some of these early rifles. My 101 is a great rifle, extremely accurate with the peep sight.
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double post
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Still trying to work him on the price of $139.95. I'll give it a couple more days. Good information fellas & I really appreciate it. At any rate I brought the Benji 397P home. Hopefully the C-100 hundred will join him soon.
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the 100 is more rare then the 101's & 102's and that seems a good price if it is as nice as you are saying
i think i paid more then that for mine
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Blue book value for 100 is
95%. $325
90%. $260
80% $210
60%. $160
40%. $115
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Blue book value for 100 is
95%. $325
90%. $260
80% $210
60%. $160
40%. $115
Not sure where this one would rate. I'm guessing 80 percent, maybe a little more.
Here are a couple of pix. Sorry for the lousy photo's. Wasn't able to load off my phone to the pc.
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Looks to be refinished? But it looks well done. If not refinished it's a screaming buy, if refinished a good buy, if it holds air.
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Steve, I think I'll head back up there & take a closer look. Can you tell me what to look for as far as tall tail clues on a refinish?
Thanks.
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Steve, I think I'll head back up there & take a closer look. Can you tell me what to look for as far as tall tail clues on a refinish?
Thanks.
This gun would be 60 years old, so if the paint is perfect, it's probably repainted. Look for area where they may have painted over old paint, see scales of old paint under. The cocking knobs are blued not painted as well as the tube the cocking knob screws into. Sometimes these are painted in a repaint? Trigger guard blued. Whenever a gun was taken to Crosman for repair the factory would repaint, my 102 is factory repaint. Original paint is great for a collector, but with these old guns a good repaint is not a bad thing.
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Great info, will certainly go a long way in inspecting this one!
One last question; I know that with the Sheridan's you can see sanding marks underneath the original finish of the wood. Was this the case with these Crosman's?
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No. The woodwork was pretty spot-on.
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Thank you Scott.
Looking forward to getting up there later on this morning to take a closer look.
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To me you can tell a stock refinish of a 60 year old gun if there are no marks etc. My old guns all have some dents, marks in the wood. Many want to sand those out for a perfect finish. Also stocks originally had oil type finish. Nothing wrong with this but I prefer just a simple refreshing with Tru Oil and leaving the character?
To your point on the wood, my 1930s 102 the walnut is right on, the 1949 elm is not as finely finished, grain more prominate, areas I might sand if I was refinishing. They made these guns over a very long period, after the War, it became more factory like production. A 100 would span 1940-1950 so you have the entire spectrum. I think a prewar 101 would be higher quality? But could depend on the gun. Again look down the barrel. If it holds air I think your biggest risk is poor rifling.
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Looks a lot nicer than the one I purchased...mine needed a complete re-work. Not complaining...IIRC paid around $60CDN...around $45US.
(http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg76/gippeto_album/20150302_220159_zpswwafuplf.jpg) (http://s245.photobucket.com/user/gippeto_album/media/20150302_220159_zpswwafuplf.jpg.html)
(http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg76/gippeto_album/20150430_183147_zps1nbv7aws.jpg) (http://s245.photobucket.com/user/gippeto_album/media/20150430_183147_zps1nbv7aws.jpg.html)
(http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg76/gippeto_album/20150430_202037_zpsl0wafujl.jpg) (http://s245.photobucket.com/user/gippeto_album/media/20150430_202037_zpsl0wafujl.jpg.html)
(http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg76/gippeto_album/20150324_213725_zpsgzov3uo4.jpg) (http://s245.photobucket.com/user/gippeto_album/media/20150324_213725_zpsgzov3uo4.jpg.html)
Al
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Al, she sure turned out beautiful! Thanks for sharing.
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Took a closer look & it does appear that the wood was redone. There are some factory sand marks underneath the finish so I thought maybe it was unmolested. However, you can see a couple of spots where the wood was dinged & I think they would have been more pronounced with hard edges. Maybe they were just worn down over time.
The bluing looks spot on. If it was re-blued the person who did it knew what he was doing. The only place I can see obvious paint is on the front sight & cap.
The peep appears to have been jimmied & the butt plate like the peep is minus the bluing.
On the plunger, not sure if these came with an adjustable shaft but this one has one.
Checked the riflings with a bore light & they look very good.
Biggest problem...not holding air. I can hear all the air escaping on the down stroke. I placed a few drops of 3-1 oil & will let it set over night butt down to see if there's any change. Big change almost immediately on the pumping. Much smoother. She must have been plumb dry.
On the plus side, the guy let me have her for $60. So, this will give me some wiggle room if it needs a rebuild.
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...5 more pix
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Wow such a deal! Like you said at that price you have so much room, no matter what you find.
Couple things off the top, the butt plates were not blued so thats original. The sight you have looks to me to be the Town and Country which would be a upgrade. When you say the gun bluing appears good? These were all painted black originally? The trigger guard is bent a little should be a even curve?
Did you cock the striker first before you pumped? The gun needs to be cocked to pump. If it's cocked and still leaking it's probably the valve at the end of the striker? Just need to reseal. My 1949 came to life after Oil was introduced into the pump cup but then gave out in a day. Just keep putting a little oil into the pump and pump it through.
A reseal is very easy, I did it and I had never resealed a gun before. There is a UTube that shows you what seals are there. He didn't buy a seal kit and made his own. Seal kit makes it piece of cake.
https://youtu.be/7dPPxPFSvoU (https://youtu.be/7dPPxPFSvoU)
The above helped me
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Hey Steve, you are not going to believe this, poured about 10 drops of 3-1 into her. Let her sit awhile butt down & shebang. She's holding air & I'm letting them fly. Tomorrow I'll put her to the test.
Good news on the sight & butt plate. I'll definitely hang on to the link for replacing seals because I'm sure I'll be needing it sooner or later.
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That's an outstanding find for 60 dollars. Somewhat scarce in .177. Looks to be in good shape, probably a shooter. Very easy to work on. Looks like the original trigger guard is missing.
There appears to be a model 114 and a 160 in the pic?
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Hey Steve, you are not going to believe this, poured about 10 drops of 3-1 into her. Let her sit awhile butt down & shebang. She's holding air & I'm letting them fly. Tomorrow I'll put her to the test.
Good news on the sight & butt plate. I'll definitely hang on to the link for replacing seals because I'm sure I'll be needing it sooner or later.
Very cool! You must live right.
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That's an outstanding find for 60 dollars. Somewhat scarce in .177. Looks to be in good shape, probably a shooter. Very easy to work on. Looks like the original trigger guard is missing.
There appears to be a model 114 and a 160 in the pic?
Well, time to start looking for a trigger guard.
Good eyes Terry...yes those are a 114 & a 160. Are those good ones?
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Located the trigger guard. Looks like the same one for 100, 101, 102, & 104.
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That's an outstanding find for 60 dollars. Somewhat scarce in .177. Looks to be in good shape, probably a shooter. Very easy to work on. Looks like the original trigger guard is missing.
There appears to be a model 114 and a 160 in the pic?
Well, time to start looking for a trigger guard.
Good eyes Terry...yes those are a 114 & a 160. Are those good ones?
Model 114 is a bulk-fill CO2 cannon, 60-65 years old. I have three, one in particular is a favorite shooter.
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Curious if the barrel is steel or bronze? Might help date it. Hope it's a good shooter, cause your opinion of the 101 in comparison to the classic Blue Streak would be fasinating.
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Steve, the barrel is steel...BUT I feel like an idiot...the owner had this listed as a Crosman 100 .177. IT IS NOT A CROSMAN 100. This Crosman is either a 101 or a 102. I should have noticed this from the get go by placing more attention to the barrel. It wasn't until I cleaned it that I noticed the diameter of the barrel was much larger. Even Q-tips had some play.
Sooo, can anyone help as to the model? :-\
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Steve, the barrel is steel...BUT I feel like an idiot...the owner had this listed as a Crosman 100 .177. IT IS NOT A CROSMAN 100. This Crosman is either a 101 or a 102. I should have noticed this from the get go by placing more attention to the barrel. It wasn't until I cleaned it that I noticed the diameter of the barrel was much larger. Even Q-tips had some play.
Sooo, can anyone help as to the model? :-\
No real loss, it's a 101, and to me a 22 works best with a pumper anyway? A heavier pellet gets more FP of energy more easily in a pumper. These were hunting field rifles, why .177 are rare, not sure they are best practical choice?
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For a guy that does not know anything about this model what are the characteristics of the 101? I researched these & there appears to be at least two different bolt types; straight & curved.
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For a guy that does not know anything about this model what are the characteristics of the 101? I researched these & there appears to be at least two different bolt types; straight & curved.
The 102 is the repeating model the 101 is the single shot, made from 1925-50. There are three main sub types. The first up to 1929 (very rare in good shape, some with Remington steel barrels.) The second up to WW2. The third post war. Your steel barrel probably puts yours 1946-47? Almost all were straight bolts. The 1949 was curved. Your cocking knob is the post war 5 ring.
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I did some more goggling & came across someone here who has a '49. Thought I was looking at the same rifle. :D
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=124236.0
(http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=124236.0)
Thanks again Steve!
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Hope it's a good shooter, cause your opinion of the 101 in comparison to the classic Blue Streak would be fasinating.
As for the caliber, I am very pleased. It was a .22 I was hoping for next, although I couldn't be happier with the Benji 397P.
As for comparing the Crosman 100 series to a Sheridan I don't think I want to get too far into that. Suffice it to say I would trade this one for a vintage Sheridan SS w/o hesitation. Maybe even a blue.
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That's an outstanding find for 60 dollars. Somewhat scarce in .177. Looks to be in good shape, probably a shooter. Very easy to work on. Looks like the original trigger guard is missing.
There appears to be a model 114 and a 160 in the pic?
Well, time to start looking for a trigger guard.
Good eyes Terry...yes those are a 114 & a 160. Are those good ones?
Model 114 is a bulk-fill CO2 cannon, 60-65 years old. I have three, one in particular is a favorite shooter.
Terry, if you are interested in the 114 pm me & I will fill you in on the details.
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Hope it's a good shooter, cause your opinion of the 101 in comparison to the classic Blue Streak would be fasinating.
As for the caliber, I am very pleased. It was a .22 I was hoping for next, although I couldn't be happier with the Benji 397P.
As for comparing the Crosman 100 series to a Sheridan I don't think I want to get too far into that. Suffice it to say I would trade this one for a vintage Sheridan SS w/o hesitation. Maybe even a blue.
Shocking!! A true Sheridinite! Here's a test for you, reseal your 101 and your Sheridan in the same afternoon and see which one you like?
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Sorry Steve, not even that would change my mind. ;)
Hey, speaking of a true Crosmanite!
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Hope it's a good shooter, cause your opinion of the 101 in comparison to the classic Blue Streak would be fasinating.
As for the caliber, I am very pleased. It was a .22 I was hoping for next, although I couldn't be happier with the Benji 397P.
As for comparing the Crosman 100 series to a Sheridan I don't think I want to get too far into that. Suffice it to say I would trade this one for a vintage Sheridan SS w/o hesitation. Maybe even a blue.
Shocking!! A true Sheridinite! Here's a test for you, reseal your 101 and your Sheridan in the same afternoon and see which one you like?
Then don't forget to run to Walmart and pick up some pellets..... oh wait..
Just the facts, ma'am.
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Sorry Bill, that won't work either. Easier for me to get online & order exactly what I want.
Enough talk fellas, how about a friendly game of put your Man where your pearly whites are; my Man for your Dan straight across.
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You'll take one in the same condition?
Wait.. did you say you put 10 drops of 3-1 oil in it?
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Sorry Bill, that won't work either. Easier for me to get online & order exactly what I want.
Enough talk fellas, how about a friendly game of put your Man where your pearly whites are; my Man for your Dan straight across.
A Sheridan? Don't have one yet? Keep looking for that cheap Supergrade?
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Just as I suspected gentleman. A classic case, or should I say, a vintage case of back peddling. ;D
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We're off topic! Any chrony numbers on that 101? Do you have any 22 pellets? ;)
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I don't think it's off topic if the OP offers a trade and you ask a couple qualifying questions on the particular gun the thread began with. If I'm out of line I apologize.
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your opinion of the 101 in comparison to the classic Blue Streak would be fasinating.
I agree we're off topic but you brought it up! In all honesty I don't even know why this comparison came up. Quality of a vintage Sheridan compared to a 101? A cheap Supergrade? Come on Steve, really? In all fairness, I like the 101. It's a great looking rifle & well designed for a pumper that dates back 60 years but not going to convince this guy that its better.
Chrony numbers...no, every time I get some green it takes off looking for another Sheridan & after shooting the 397P, a 392P is on my radar as well, then a few more Sheridan's then maybe a chrony. Who knows maybe somewhere in between.
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Marty.... Everything else aside.... you got a great deal. Would I trade my SS for it? Nope. Would I trade a BS in the same condition? Here's the thing, I have several Streaks and I have one 101 restored beautifully. Altho vintage Streaks are gonna cost you more, 101's are going to be harder to find. If two people could come to terms and agree that the conditions were equal.. I believe I would. Would I trade my only BS.. again.. nope. Man, if that thing did turn out to be a 100 I'd be drooling on my keyboard right now. But please... don't put 3in1 oil in them. I have heard of people doing it back in the day but we know a lot more now than they did then. If I misunderstood, again... I apologize.
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Bill please elaborate more on the 3-1. A good friend who sold me the '69 SS & who has the best Sheridan's on the planet recommended I use sewing machine oil. IIRC someone mentioned 3-1 is the same type oil. It's what brought my '65 SS back to life. This & a new cup.
There is another oil recommended to me by a good friend of both of ours. I won't mention it here but if interested pm me & I'll fill you in. Problem is, this oil is harder to find.
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3 in 1 has penetrating qualities. It's been a great product for years in cleaning, lubricating and protecting metal and metal to metal surfaces. It's more likely not a good thing to put on seals. If not Secret Sauce I would use NT 30 wt. Guys have been using 3 in 1 on PB guns for years. No O-rings and seals in PB guns. I also understand it turns to varnish over time. If that's true I know I don't want it in my valve.
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Thanks for the info on the 3-1 oil. Tarnishing & adverse affects on O-rings & seals would certainly be a concern. Time to switch.
I also agree with your take on the rarity of these rifles. Vintage Dan's are much more available then these & if a good one comes along a person should hang onto it. I definitely like this 101. I think what surprised me the most is how small & narrow it is, crude & yet beautiful, basic & yet efficient. Loading a pellet & no safety was certainly a surprise but kinda cool at the same time, & yes I did pick up a tin of .22 cals from wally world to give it a go.
My plans are to break it down & give it a thorough cleaning & replace parts/seals. If I get intimidated I can always turn to Scott. ;)
Yes I think I'll hang onto this one not only because of what I mentioned up top, but because I also think its a landmark model. It was also in my sights because it scored high in quality, performance & collectability. Not to mention, my son's really like it.
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Thanks for the info on the 3-1 oil. Tarnishing & adverse affects on O-rings & seals would certainly be a concern. Time to switch.
I also agree with your take on the rarity of these rifles. Vintage Dan's are much more available then these & if a good one comes along a person should hang onto it. I definitely like this 101. I think what surprised me the most is how small & narrow it is, crude & yet beautiful, basic & yet efficient. Loading a pellet & no safety was certainly a surprise but kinda cool at the same time, & yes I did pick up a tin of .22 cals from wally world to give it a go.
My plans are to break it down & give it a thorough cleaning & replace parts/seals. If I get intimidated I can always turn to Scott. ;)
Yes I think I'll hang onto this one not only because of what I mentioned up top, but because I also think its a landmark model. It was also in my sights because it scored high in quality, performance & collectability. Not to mention, my son's really like it.
Good description of a 101, it's the slim, small, carbine feel I really like. My other rifle is a Beeman R1 which is just a heavy beast in comparison. I asked the experts how many were made and no one knows, but over 25 years it had to be a lot. They were never safe queens so condition is everything for a collector.
They also tend to be modified a lot. The old ones would go in for service and Crosman always updated all the parts. Very common to have a 30s gun with a post war cocking knob. The valving improved over the years so this is mostly a good thing.
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I've never handled a Super Grade but I would think it has a similar feel. I wonder which came first?.. lol .. no I don't. An interesting thing about some older Crosman leather seal guns.. The long stock screw... if it's flush with the steel butt plate there should be a spare seal in there, if not flush (recessed), it's been lost, deteriorated, or used. Not sure if the 101 is included. I can't remember looking at a breakdown and I've never had to seal mine. A shot tray would be nice but, once you get used to loading it.... it gets better.
BTW... No way am I comparing a 101 to a Super Grade... just throwing that out there.
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If the gun pumps and shoots, leave it alone. Just wipe it down, and keep it oiled.
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If the gun pumps and shoots, leave it alone. Just wipe it down, and keep it oiled.
+1
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I've never handled a Super Grade but I would think it has a similar feel. I wonder which came first?.. lol .. no I don't. An interesting thing about some older Crosman leather seal guns.. The long stock screw... if it's flush with the steel butt plate there should be a spare seal in there, if not flush (recessed), it's been lost, deteriorated, or used. Not sure if the 101 is included. I can't remember looking at a breakdown and I've never had to seal mine. A shot tray would be nice but, once you get used to loading it.... it gets better.
BTW... No way am I comparing a 101 to a Super Grade... just throwing that out there.
The older guns had cork gaskets between the stock to metal joint. The later ones eliminated that gasket and the wood is directly against the metal. My 1930s has a gasket, my 1949 did not.
Never held a supergrade either but people say they are surprised how small it is, but it looks much thicker than a 101.
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Some had a spare leather seal on the screw... I'll have to look it up.
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Yes I think I'll hang onto this one not only because of what I mentioned up top, but because I also think its a landmark model. It was also in my sights because it scored high in quality, performance & collectability. Not to mention, my son's really like it.
I think these do make good size guns for kids, also a little easier to pump? There is no safety, DT Flecther told me if you want it on safe, just pull back the bolt, if it fires the air escapes harmlessly. Good thought if you pump up and go hunting.
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Thanks for your comments gentleman.
Well some good & bad. The good; for the longest time it would take 3 pumps before she started holding air, now she starts charging from the first pump. She also shoots straight & holds elevation out to 25 yds. One question I do have is that the base of the peep is 1/4" from the bridge. Is this about the right height for these distances? This will give me a clue as to whether or not she's where she should be without a chrony.
Now for the bad; I was going to ask if the normal position of the bolt was midway down in the closed position. As it turns out, the bolt stop is binding (photo's) & my guess is folks must have slammed the bolt back hard one to many times & cracked the metal. Looking at it close I don't think its that big a deal to repair. Nothing a little needle filing, JB welding, sanding & painting can't cure if & when I decide to redo the entire gun. What do you think? Even so, still su%cks. The embarrassing part is I made this purchase without outside influence with Mr. Beam.
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I have no experience with the Crosman 101. HOWEVER, I do have many benjamin and sheridan rifles that wear the same williams peep sight, and each one has a different vertical adjustment (even just comparing sheridan to sheridan and benjamin to benjamin), so I don't think you can base anything on the height of your peep sight.
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I would say it's mostly good news. You have a 1949, one of the best 101s they built, same as mine except I have the Sears version with the crinkle paint and diablo cocking knob. The three characteristics only on the 1949 are the the Town and Country sight, the curved bolt, and the small metal bracket stop holding the bolt from going too far back. Only on the 1949. Your bracket is slightly bent and should be against the receiver. See my picks. My sight is about 1/4 up. Not sure you really have a problem with the bolt action given it has a lot of extra room to lock up? Just smooth out? Could put a little sheet metal to build out it you need to: See my picks for example: last pic is mine locked up.
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u172/skitchen51/IMG_8603_zpsw7yscdpw.jpg)
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u172/skitchen51/IMG_8605_zps9hhyhvtk.jpg)
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u172/skitchen51/IMG_8608_zpskyb0c2fq.jpg)
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u172/skitchen51/IMG_8604_zps0gplkdno.jpg)
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That's excellent news. For some reason I thought the bolt was binding & not fully engaged. I also thought the bolt looked a little strange up in the air like it is in the closed position. Thanks for the comparisons/similarities between the two.
I finally had a chance to try it out. I'll post pix in just a sec.
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Steve, on your first & last pic, is your bolt in the full closed position? If so, then that's exactly where mine is.
Yes, that's fully closed. Like I said not sure you have an issue? You look at the curved bolt and think it should be curling down, but it's curved so it goes straight out. See pics. A 1949 for $60 is a remarkable buy.
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Thanks again Steve & yes I'm very, very pleased with this purchase.
Well the only pellets wally had were CPHP 14.3. Below is a comparison between the 101 & the '65 SS. I am actually quite pleased with the 101 performance for her first outing, given any number of issues that could be at play; not holding consistent charges between shots, CPHP's, Peep site vs scope, old eyes vs. young eyes, & the list goes on. My honest opinion is it is extremely difficult for me to see dime size targets at these distances without a cheater & its not the gun its me. ;)
Anyway had to start somewhere. I'm sure its just a matter of time before she starts performing like the '65.
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Thanks again Steve & yes I'm very, very pleased with this purchase.
Well the only pellets wally had were CPHP 14.3. Below is a comparison between the 101 & the '65 SS. I am actually quite pleased with the 101 performance for her first outing, given any number of issues that could be at play; no4 t holding consistent charges between shots, CPHP's, Peep site vs scope, old eyes vs. young eyes, & the list goes on. My honest opinion is it is extremely difficult for me to see dime size targets at these distances without a cheater & its not the gun its me. ;)
Anyway had to start somewhere. I'm sure its just a matter of time before she starts performing like the '65.
Excellent, the peeps took me a couple of outings to get used to. 25 yards and a dime size target, bet you do have a hard time just seeing it with the peep. Lol. My latest game is shooting yellow dandilion flowers on the lawn.
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Just for Ha Has.. go to the dollar store and get some +100 and +125 readers.. couple bucks each... give them a shot. You target becomes just a bit blurry but you see the sight real good. Takes a bit of getting used to.
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Looking nice Marty. So about that trade for a Blue Streak?
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Looking nice Marty. So about that trade for a Blue Streak?
No kidding, it would be tough but you never know. ;)
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Just for Ha Has.. go to the dollar store and get some +100 and +125 readers.. couple bucks each... give them a shot. You target becomes just a bit blurry but you see the sight real good. Takes a bit of getting used to.
I have several pair scattered throughout the house. I'll give it a go next time out. Just tried it out. You might have something there.
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This rifle kind of illustrates some of the fun of aspects of collecting. First many sellers are not students of the history of vintage rifles and really don't know what they are selling. We as collectors learn the best by collecting, it's the best teacher. Also with Crosman there is nothing set in stone at different time periods. They tended to assemble guns from the parts they had on hand. This rifle is definitely a "1949" but it must be a very early one, my book says they were back to bronze barrels by 49?
I have rifles scoped cause of my old eyes, but I am leaving the 49 with its peep sight. They are old eye friendly, much more than a open sight. I can be very accurate with it, maybe not scope accurate but with practice it's really pretty close, and it's fun to have a rifle that is so light and maneuverable, and vintage.
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My typical posting mess up
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Well stated Steve, collecting vintage guns is the best teacher.
I never thought I’d have so much fun with a hobby. My first pellet rifle was in December of ’16. Before then I thought a pellet gun was just another variation of BB. I remember as a kid, my impression of seeing my first pellet was; there’s no way this weird looking thing can be more accurate than a BB, let alone a 22. I had no idea. Riffled barrel?
This is one rifle that will never see a scope. There’s something about that crude looking peep that adds to its beauty. I must say though, it’s harder for me to use than the Williams on my '69. That is a very small hole but I have no plans to drill it out. Just a little peeved that someone took a grinder to it. Seems to be the case with many of these, guess so that the bolt stop can clear when the peep is mounted low. Then I added in my own screw up, over tightened the slide screw…dang. Well, guess I’ll be looking for one of those also.
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Well stated Steve, collecting vintage guns is the best teacher.
I never thought I’d have so much fun with a hobby. My first pellet rifle was in December of ’16. Before then I thought a pellet gun was just another variation of BB. I remember as a kid, my impression of seeing my first pellet was; there’s no way this weird looking thing can be more accurate than a BB, let alone a 22. I had no idea. Riffled barrel?
This is one rifle that will never see a scope. There’s something about that crude looking peep that adds to its beauty. I must say though, it’s harder for me to use than the Williams on my '69. That is a very small hole but I have no plans to drill it out. Just a little peeved that someone took a grinder to it. Seems to be the case with many of these, guess so that the bolt stop can clear when the peep is mounted low. Then I added in my own screw up, over tightened the slide screw…dang. Well, guess I’ll be looking for one of those also.
It is a very small hole, I can see why a hunter would drill it out a bit. At dusk it's a real challenge! I have found that adjusting how close my head is to the peep makes a huge difference. On a bright day keeping my head back can give you a accuracy edge. I have a Beeman variable iris peep lense I bought for a Williams years ago. Never used it, went to a scope on the R1. It might fit, but like you I find a beauty in this rifle kept stock.
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Since were talking Crosman 100's here are a few photos of mine. I did refinish the stock, repaint, and make a new rear sight. I have the original sight but thought that if would good in brass with the brass barrel.
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Love the brass!! Mine has some scratches on the barrel and I can see the pretty bronze. Thought it would look awesome polished, with a black body. You certainly prove that's right. Makes you wonder why they covered all the good looking brass? I assume they were competing with regular 22 rifles at the time and they were all blued?
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I agree with Steve...Well done!
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The Crosman was still dumping air on the first couple of pumps so I tried out the alcohol flush. Cycled her with 3 series of flushes, 8 pumps each. Man what a work out but it was worth it. Below are pix with the gunk that came out of here. She's pumping strong & holding air from the first pump on. I will try her out sometime today & see how she does. I will also see if she holds air over night.
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Yes I think I'll hang onto this one not only because of what I mentioned up top, but because I also think its a landmark model. It was also in my sights because it scored high in quality, performance & collectability. Not to mention, my son's really like it.
I think these do make good size guns for kids, also a little easier to pump? There is no safety, DT Flecther told me if you want it on safe, just pull back the bolt, if it fires the air escapes harmlessly. Good thought if you pump up and go hunting.
If you want to put the gun on " safe ", UNCOCK IT. Opening the bolt on most of the variants of the 100, 101, 102 is not a good idea. They have the bolt retained by the handle protruding through the bolt far enough that it can't slide past the hammer/cocking knob. If the hammer accidently fell, it would drive the bolt closed ahead of it. Most likely damaging the bolt, in the process.
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Yes I think I'll hang onto this one not only because of what I mentioned up top, but because I also think its a landmark model. It was also in my sights because it scored high in quality, performance & collectability. Not to mention, my son's really like it.
I think these do make good size guns for kids, also a little easier to pump? There is no safety, DT Flecther told me if you want it on safe, just pull back the bolt, if it fires the air escapes harmlessly. Good thought if you pump up and go hunting.
If you want to put the gun on " safe ", UNCOCK IT. Opening the bolt on most of the variants of the 100, 101, 102 is not a good idea. They have the bolt retained by the handle protruding through the bolt far enough that it can't slide past the hammer/cocking knob. If the hammer accidently fell, it would drive the bolt closed ahead of it. Most likely damaging the bolt, in the process.
I see this as problematic as well. I tried it and one rap on the cocking knob discharged the gun. On my 102 and 1949 101 I don't see the bolt issue?
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Crosman changed the bolt handle several times, during the course of production. The '49 is the only year to have the crescent moon shaped bolt retainer.
As far as rapping the hammer to set the gun off, it takes a pretty good smack to get it to go off. I'd sooner have the gun uncocked, than the bolt open. It also lessens the wear on the hammer spring.
In the end, the only safety that counts, is between your ears.
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I have never been thrilled about any firearm without a safety. Boggles the mind why anyone would design one in such a way especially if the intent was for children or youngsters. I for one would never have purchased such a gun new with this intent. In addition to that, I would never introduce a youngster to this sport with something like this. I think it would leave the wrong impression with regards to hunter safety.
On the plus side, my feelings haven’t changed about this model. I intend to use it from time to time for hunting but it will only be while hunting alone. I agree with Scott in that the only safety in this case is between the ears.
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I have never been thrilled about any firearm without a safety. Boggles the mind why anyone would design one in such a way especially if the intent was for children or youngsters. I for one would never have purchased such a gun new with this intent. In addition to that, I would never introduce a youngster to this sport with something like this. I think it would leave the wrong impression with regards to hunter safety.
On the plus side, my feelings haven’t changed about this model. I intend to use it from time to time for hunting but it will only be while hunting alone. I agree with Scott in that the only safety in this case is between the ears.
I have to agree, this is not the gun to start a youngster out on. But these guns were sold as adult rifles at a time when safeties on air guns were not common, maybe non existent? In fact, I have only one prewar pistol with a safety and that is the 1930's Haenel 28 Repeater, the single shot did not have a safety? I guess the thought was if a gun could carry multiple shots it better have a safety?
On any 102 and on your 1949 pulling the bolt I think is petty easy fix. In a hunting scenario, that's what I will do without question, in fact I have done it target shooting when necessary.
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Steve, I came across this info on a search. My rifle is consistent with the 3rd description ('30-'50). What's confusing to me is that the stock looks more like elm & not hardwood. Any ideas?
Model 101 Pneumatic pump, .22 cal., single shot. Die cast receiver w/logo: pat. Oct. 28, 1924, Crosman Arms Co. Rochester, NY Rifle 1925-1929
Model 101 variant with applied logo and "clickless" forearm Rifle 1938-1939
Model 101 "Pellet" logo variant with hardwood stock & forearm. Rifle 1930-1950
Model 101 Late variant with crinkle finish paint and American elm stock Rifle 1949-1950
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Steve, I came across this info on a search. My rifle is consistent with the 3rd description ('30-'50). What's confusing to me is that the stock looks more like elm & not hardwood. Any ideas?
Model 101 Pneumatic pump, .22 cal., single shot. Die cast receiver w/logo: pat. Oct. 28, 1924, Crosman Arms Co. Rochester, NY Rifle 1925-1929
Model 101 variant with applied logo and "clickless" forearm Rifle 1938-1939
Model 101 "Pellet" logo variant with hardwood stock & forearm. Rifle 1930-1950
Model 101 Late variant with crinkle finish paint and American elm stock Rifle 1949-1950
My 1949 is Elm, they used Elm with some of the 49s and into the 50s with other models. My theory is the this was during Dutch Elm Desease and they were probably getting Elm lumber very cheap. They used maple after the War cause it was War surplus.
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That explains it. Just had to get caught up in my woods by looking at pix. It is definitely not elm, its maple.
Thanks again Steve. ;)