GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Machine Shop Talk & AG Parts Machining => Topic started by: LAalex on May 06, 2011, 04:13:23 PM
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I'm considering installing a tarantula spring in my Crosman Phantom. Are any washers or spacers required. I know JM sells a "Piston Power Spacer". I have a set of spacer washers from JM and Vortek. Where exactly do I put these? Any advice would be appreciated.
Scotty
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If using the Tarantula spring, you should also machine a custom guide and tophat for it.
CDT
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Thanks Mr. Bob. Would I get poor results with the Crosman guides?ie. torque,vibration,etc.
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If you use the spacers or washers, polish the peewaddin out of them to help prevent torque. If you polish the mating surfaces of any metal parts that make contact inside the gun it will help allow them to move more freely and lessen the effects of the spring torque.
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The Tarantula spring is an excellet spring if installed and applied correctly. The problem with using the Tarantula spring Scotty is that it does have a larger ID as well as a larger wire diameter and will fit more loosly on the factory guide and unless fitted to a machined guide will oscillate more causing more noise and vibration although the heavy tar will dampen most of it. The other issue is that unless you fit a guide for it, the Tarantula spring will have a tendency to cant more readily during the cocking cycle causing even more noise and vibration.
Now then, with all of that said, Jim may have changed the specs on the Tarantula spring that I'm not aware of so what I'm saying may no longer apply.
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If you use the spacers or washers, polish the peewaddin out of them to help prevent torque. If you polish the mating surfaces of any metal parts that make contact inside the gun it will help allow them to move more freely and lessen the effects of the spring torque.
I disagree with this....
under the conditions thrust washers are used for in an airrifle you do NOT want a mirror finish on them... a mirror finish will leave no room for lube between the surfaces and it will all smash out.. leaving two surfaces that now have a high area of contact(thay are smooth and shiney)
Instead you want a finish in the 320-400 ball park and even better if you can chuck them into something and spin them so the finish is around the face of the washer and not across it... this will leave you a surface that lube can getinto and stay and do its job and also a surface that when rotates will go with the grain of the finish and not across it..
Remember ANYTIME you polish or put a finish on a working surface work IN the direction of contact so that the parts dont rub across the grain and instead work with it.... you will be amazed at how much smoother your work will feel.....
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Thanks guys for all the help. It's really a blessing to be able to tap into such a huge reservoir of knowlege and experience. It's a great place to be.
Scotty