GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Machine Shop Talk & AG Parts Machining => Show us your Custom Airgun Parts (TRICKS-N-TIPS) => Topic started by: sixshootertexan on March 18, 2017, 08:33:51 PM
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Well it went ok. Test part came out purple instead of black. Second set of parts came out decent. The smaller part has all machined surfaces and the larger part the OD is just sanded stock material. You can see pits in it. The first part I let set in the dye and did not move it around. It has a spot where it was setting on the bottom that is darker than the rest of the part. So on the second set I stirred the pot and it had some scratches on it. So on the third set I tried a little more voltage and hanged the part in the dye so as not to touch anything, it came out funky. Going to strip it and start over.
Anodizing set up.
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/sixshootertexan/20170318_155039_zpsetgcx0jn.jpg) (http://s42.photobucket.com/user/sixshootertexan/media/20170318_155039_zpsetgcx0jn.jpg.html)
Second Set after the anodizing , before dying.
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/sixshootertexan/20170318_154859_zpsxfvomvag.jpg) (http://s42.photobucket.com/user/sixshootertexan/media/20170318_154859_zpsxfvomvag.jpg.html)
Dye pot
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/sixshootertexan/20170318_171432_zpsjfi2tpgv.jpg) (http://s42.photobucket.com/user/sixshootertexan/media/20170318_171432_zpsjfi2tpgv.jpg.html)
Parts
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/sixshootertexan/20170318_180839_zpsqrowb69t.jpg) (http://s42.photobucket.com/user/sixshootertexan/media/20170318_180839_zpsqrowb69t.jpg.html)
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Nice! One of those things that makes you wonder how in the heck did someone come up with this idea?
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Thanks. Lots of variables. Good thing is I can sand it off and try again.
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looks like progess to me.are you using sulfuric acid?
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No. Sodium bisulfite.
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i had the same hesitation with making a home setup..
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I didn't mention the solution I was using. It is just like Marko (MJP) is using 100g of Sodium Bisulfate in 1 liter of distilled water. I mixed up 1 1/2 liters of the solution to fill my container. I found using my power supply at 15-20v and let the amps draw as much as it wants which was between .5-1amp with the 2 parts in the tank. The amp draw will be dependent on the amount of surface you are anodizing.
Well after a second attempt to redo the 2 funky parts I've come to a conclusion. The actual anodizing is not that hard. It's getting it right so that it will take the dye is the trick. If you are looking to just seal the aluminum to stop oxidation that is easily done. If I need it to look pretty I'll pay a pro to do it.
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is there any downside to running more power, like 50v 4 amps?
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As you increase voltage amperage will go up. The set that is messed up was ran at 25v and the amp draw was 1.5amp. It's a fine line at getting the cell structure right that will hold the dye.
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thanks . from all the videos I watched, It seemed like the higher the overall the wattage the better so I always wondered why people did not run more power.. Now I know its not that simple
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What kind of dye are you using and how hot is the dye pot? I've only read about this, never did it.
Steve
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Rit dye @ 130°
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Oh I have missed your tests, sorry.
You can strip the anodizing in caustic bath pretty fast, and use to etch the part something like 10-20gram of lye to litre of water.
Using constant current for small parts and voltages around 25-30v works for me.
That size of parts you are doing I would go for something like 1-1.2A and 26V if you have a psu that can limit the current works the best.
Marko
Edit: forgot to ask your anodizing solution temp? Around 25-30C and you get bigger pore size.
And dye at 45-50C but thats for commercial dye I use, dont know about Rit.
Edit2: looking at your setup I maybe know wheres the problem on higher current, lost contact to the alu suspending wire could be possible cause.
I tend to wrap the connecting wire around the threads or thread it in to a hole if possible, its easy to have bad connection when the anodized layer starts to form.
Make as many z bends to the wire to get as much contact as you possibly can.
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Saw a new imitation Anodize spray paint called Metalcast for shiny metals.
https://duplicolor.com/product/metalcast-anodized-automotive-paint
The closest thing to black they have is called "smoke". But a bunch of colors.
I thought about getting some to use like candy apple over gold or silver paint.
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I have done anodizing with excellent results. Here are some tips to get professional results.
POWER
1. You will need a DC power supply capable of 12 volts and 20 amps (amperage requirements will increase with surface area of part)
ANODIZING
1. Know that certain types of aluminum are harder to anodize than others. 6061 generally works well.
2. Use about 9% sulfuric acid.
3. Use Lead as your cathode, or graphite or aluminum or titanium if you can get it. Never use stainless.
4. Your cathode to anode ratio should be around 3:1
5. Look up the 720 rule for the amount of power and time it takes to properly do the job.
6. Make sure your parts are CLEAN. I would dip in sodium hydroxide and rinse to remove all oils.
7. Make sure when you hook up your power to your Anode (the part you want to Anodize) the connection is rock solid.
8. Keep the anodize bath as cool as you can and preferably keep the solution moving (like with a small magnetically coupled pump).
9. You will know when the anodize worked correctly as the part will have a "slightly goldish finish, hard to explain, when you see it you'll know it"
10. I always rinsed the solution off and kept parts bathing in clean COOL water till ready to dye.
DYEING
1. DO NOT USE RIT DYE or FABRIC DYE. (Your results will rarely be good and those Dyes are not UV stabilized, they will fade almost immediately in the sun). I used to get my dyes from "BRIGHT DYES" in sample quantities. One package would make one gallon of dye.
2. Best to mix dye with distilled water, but I used tap water and it worked fine... I guess it depends on your water.
3. Bring Dye up to 140°F
4. Completely submerse parts in dye.
5. Hang parts, do not let them contact the container. Try to attach hangers to non-conspicuous areas.
6. let parts bathe in dye for at least 15 minutes.
7. Rinse excess dye off in cold water.
SEALING
1. Boil parts in distilled water with NICKEL ACETATE (4-5 grams/liter) for 30 minutes.
2. Rinse well.
OK, Here are some photos:
Custom Ruger MKII
(http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac51/rattletrap1970/Anodizing/2012-10-27%2013.18.24_zpscxnqjylp.jpg)
Walther GSP (with muzzle brakes I designed)
(http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac51/rattletrap1970/Anodizing/2014-04-23%2015.54.18-1_zpsfgol1rdx.jpg)
(http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac51/rattletrap1970/Anodizing/2014-04-23%2010.01.50_zps08cri1el.jpg)
AR15 Receivers
(http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac51/rattletrap1970/Anodizing/2014-03-26%2020.02.11_zpsrznpsbjo.jpg)
Misc Parts
(http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac51/rattletrap1970/Anodizing/2014-05-19%2020.59.05_zpsedtykvax.jpg)
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Some day I might try some of this...thanks for the information!