GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Diana Airguns => Topic started by: wahoowad on February 17, 2017, 09:49:10 PM
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I've still getting to know my new Diana 56TH but want to thank those who already shared helpful advice in some of my initial threads. I've put a cheap Leapers 3-9x40 scope on it for now and have had a couple plinking sessions to get used to the new (to me) side-lever action, rail system and overall shooting action. I did find I was 7" low at 35 yards so will reinstall the scope with the DNT06 drooper mount later.
It's a big gun, but as a fan of the LGU I don't feel this 56TH is too heavy. I shoot from the bench and the weight makes it nice and stable on my sandbag. I like to overall profile of the gun, from the wood of the thumbhole stock to the heavy muzzle brake at the end of the barrel.
(http://i.imgur.com/Jej4mue.jpg)
It is far from broken in but is initially putting out 20fpe, which was 715 fps using JSB 18 gr pellets. I shot a couple groups at 35 yards and both the JSB 18 and 15 gr show good promise. It was cold and I was wearing bulky clothes so did not try very hard. I still haven't even cleaned the barrel but will do so this weekend, plink some more to further break in and try some groups with different pellets. JSB 18's fit loose, the 15's a little tighter. The 18's slid thru the barrel relatively easy and I noticed a good choke at the end.
The T06 trigger feels really good. I probably won't even feel the need to fool with it for awhile.
It's not quiet, but I wouldn't call it loud either. It's quieter than I was expecting at this power level, with the lighter 15 gr pellets going faster and making a bit more muzzle report. The muzzle brake fits right up to the end of the barrel and there is a rubber washer inside the threaded cap that lightly tightens down against the end of the barrel when fully threaded on. I am hoping I can loosen the allen screws and slide the brake a couple inches forward to create a void to help take more of the noise away. Does anybody know if the allen screws tighten to the round side of the barrel or is there a machined flat the tighten down on?
(http://i.imgur.com/BPw1nsH.jpg)
This is my first Diana, and being a German gun I was expecting a very refined rifle like my HW's, with deep blued lustre and high quality construction. So I was a little surprised to find the metal has some kind of matte textured finish, with what appears to be sheetmetal outer construction over a barrel and action I can't see yet. It's...different...and I keep telling myself it's going to be OK. ???
(http://i.imgur.com/mnvSrkx.jpg)
These rivets only accentuate the appearance of 'sheetmetal' construction.
(http://i.imgur.com/hdEnQpZ.jpg)
I can't figure out what these "sheetmetal" tabs do that stick out from the forestock. But right at the very very front of them I can see past the sheetmetal to the barrel underneath. Any idea why these tabs protrude like this???
(http://i.imgur.com/Dj3TzU4.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Di821zE.jpg)
I can't really comment on the rail system, other than it's there and it works. It adds a lot of mechanical noise to the shot cycle that I'm not used to and it may be masking a bit of spring twang. My ear isn't tuned in yet to these various noises. The stock has a significant void to hold the rail system and give it room to move, and this void makes the stock sound thin and 'clackety' kinda like how very dry bamboo sounds. I don't like it but can't imagine how you would make it any different given the rail system inside. I'm hoping to learn more about adjusting and tuning the rail system to include anything I can do to cut down on the noise it makes.
Any input on how to tighten the various stock screws I see underneath (in in-lbs)? I prefer to use a torque wrench to consistently set them.
Who sells aftermarket Diana bling? That plastic trigger guard is an abysmal feature on a higher end springer.
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How interesting. I have never handled one of the "big" Dianas. It appears that the barrel is shrouded over its length, then? Those tabs perhaps locate the shroud at the near end? The "sheetmetal" shroud? over the forward end of the breech is interesting.
I have been in the vicinity of a regular 56 at an FT match, and it didn't appear much different in metalwork from the AATX200/Prosports and HW97's I have handled. Maybe I "mis-saw" it.
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The barrel is covered but I'm hesitant to call it a shroud. It looks to me they used the sheetmetal so they could apply this matte textured finish? And I can't tell if the action has sheetmetal around it like I said previously or if it solid with the textured finish applied. Those rivets might be large pins - initially looked like rivets - not sure.
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Well, the barrel moves with the sledge, no? And I suppose all the sledge stuff is under the "action" cover or shroud? But yeah I take your point about not calling it a shroud, at least not in the conventional sense of sound-dampening.
I guess I need to get up-close and persona with one of these sometime. I just assumed it was built pretty similarly to an FWB300, maybe not. I guess I haven't studied the 300 that closely either, but if the action was shrouded or covered, the cover was a more conventionally finished tube that looked like a "regular" compression chamber.
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Who sells aftermarket Diana bling? That plastic trigger guard is an abysmal feature on a higher end springer.
Hey Wahoowad,
The Good: Diana 56th has a beautiful stock, wonderful trigger, has a lot of power and a likely a great shooter ;).
The Bad: It's a Tank, the metal work is ungainly with too much plastic.
Not a gun for a display of subtle elegance, but a powerful, accurate shooter ;)
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My take on those sheet metal taps is one of being used to keep action square and true with stock.
The sled mechanics while having 2 rods each align to the block that they slide within, but those blocks ( 2 each ) only have a single mounting post that passes threw the wood stock. These WINGS keep the rotation of action within the stock from happening only allowing front to back motion and no rotation.
Scott
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I like the flat finish, IMO it is more durable and rust resistant. It's not sheet metal, it a quality metal, most likely the same as the 54, I think the tabs you are referring is where the front sight would be on a 54.
The gap in the wood gives it a free floating design isolated from the stock. Which makes it not hold sensitive anywhere you wish to hold it.
If you want to quiet it more I would try some type of insulating material and fill the void in the muzzle weight.
I would not attempt to monkey with the muzzle brake or sled system, I think you would be opening a can of worms.
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Do you know how tight to make the stock screws after I reassemble following inspect of the sled?
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I don't I have often wondered myself, I wonder if it would be possible using a torque wrench starting at low lb setting and working up higher, if this would tell you?
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their are formulas out there that can tell u how to figure out how much torque to put on a bolt or screw by length and diameter, do a search on the net and see what u come up with ;D ;)
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This likely going to be my next springer. All of those pictures just confirm it. There is nothing I see that I don't like. I really like the flat finish too. I didn't expect it. Bluing just rusts, that looks like a substantial finish.
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Do you know how tight to make the stock screws after I reassemble following inspect of the sled?
Hector Medina seems to know about as much as humanly possible about the 54/56. Might shoot him a PM. Or look at his blog, http://www.ctcustomairguns.com/hectors-airgun-blog, (http://www.ctcustomairguns.com/hectors-airgun-blog,) he has some discussions that have been quoted here about adjusting the sled.
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My take on those sheet metal taps is one of being used to keep action square and true with stock.
The sled mechanics while having 2 rods each align to the block that they slide within, but those blocks ( 2 each ) only have a single mounting post that passes threw the wood stock. These WINGS keep the rotation of action within the stock from happening only allowing front to back motion and no rotation.
Scott
What scott said, wahoowad (THAT IS A BEAUTIFUL RIFLE).
If I got one of those from the UPS truk there would definitely be a
Wahoowad. Plz treat her good!
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Those tabs sticking out at the front are part of the barrel shroud. They are integral to it, and as far as I can tell serve only to locate the shroud and keep it from rotating.
The shroud is merely a sleeve. Under it you will find a very thin spacer tube that creates an interference fit between the outer tube and the barrel. The outer tube or shroud is purely cosmetic.
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the "matte" finish you are referring to is parkerizing, it is still a chemical finish and what the military finishes their guns is. not as pretty as blueing, but very tough
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I think it is a beautiful Rifle, and would look right at home hanging on my wall next to my SS HW35 and broken SS HW30.
AOA has them on sale again for $649
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Pyramid Air has refurb Diana 56 .177 for $595.
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I put about 125 shots thru it yesterday and it is growing on me. Those stock screws are surprisingly small compared to other springers .
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Keep an eye on the stock screws, I had the front one come loose and fall out during a HFT match, luckily it decided to fall out in my Rifle case and I did not loose it.
Also be careful with any loose fitting pellets that may fall out, if you miss it, like I have done with my .22 52, it will lead to a dry fire and crushed pellet in the compression tube.
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I love my .177 56th. I had Rob Hawkins in Linconton, N.C. tune it awhile back and the shot cycle is smooth as silk. Trigger pull is perfect. I've got a Z mount and a Diamond back scope on it. Holes touching at 25 yards.
If I had any complaint, it is heavy. I shoot left hand and have to change hands to cock and load. Shoot a 100 pellets thru it and it wears me out.
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The muzzle brake fits right up to the end of the barrel and there is a rubber washer inside the threaded cap that lightly tightens down against the end of the barrel when fully threaded on. I am hoping I can loosen the allen screws and slide the brake a couple inches forward to create a void to help take more of the noise away. Does anybody know if the allen screws tighten to the round side of the barrel or is there a machined flat the tighten down on?
Nice rifle! Think you will like the matt finish the more you use it.
The muzzle weight on my 340 N-tec Compact is held on by 2 small grub screws on the underside of the MB. Not sure if it is the same as yours or not....
These grub screws fit into 2 small threaded holes on the barrel. These threaded holes are only about 4 or 5 threads deep. I took my MB off once and had a really hard time "finding" those 2 holes again. Also, when you find one, you are not sure if it is the first hole or second hole. :-\
The length of barrel underneath my MB is not well finished at all. :-[ So removing it is a no go...
Since my gun is a break barrel, I use the MB as a cocking aid. Have to really tighten down those grub screws or the MB wobbles just a bit.
Hope this helps...
-Yogi
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This likely going to be my next springer. All of those pictures just confirm it. There is nothing I see that I don't like. I really like the flat finish too. I didn't expect it. Bluing just rusts, that looks like a substantial finish.
Mine spent a couple years in a damp basement. The cocking lever and top of the action, right where the Diana emblem is burned in, rusted a bit.
The reach to the trigger is a bit long, compared to every other springer I've shot, but the trigger action itself is quite good.
The barrel isn't shrouded with any kind of noise dampening, and it is just as loud as I expected a 20 FPE springer to me. The spring action was quite buzzy in mine. It was strange to have no recoil, but to still feel and hear the spring buzz after the shot.
Make no mistake, the gun is indeed a tank. Shot from a rest, it's no problem. But try shooting it offhand for more than a few shots and your spine will be screaming. Mine needed a drooper mount too; I got the UTG one. Make sure to mount it with the overhanging part over the front of the stock rail, or it won't work right.
Bottom line was that it was a nice gun, but the fit & finish weren't Weihrauch quality, it's buzzy (needs a tune) and heavy. Consider it about a $1300 purchase, all up, and you'll be happy.
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Make sure to mount it with the overhanging part over the front of the stock rail, or it won't work right.
The new ones have the T06 trigger and the mount doesn't have this overhang aspect. At least the UTG DNT06 mount for this gun doesn't have it.
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Is the powerplant the same as the 54? Anyone have both?
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I have both, pretty sure they are the same powerplant.
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So what are bennies with the 56 over 54? Seems like nicer stock.
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I have not shot my 56 yet, but I have shot others and I prefer a thumb hole stock. IMO it makes the weight more manageable, but I specifically purchased it for BR. Last year I used my 54 for both HFT and BR with a 12x Scope and I really struggled seeing the Targets. I plan on putting a higher power Scope on my 56 and I believe the 56 stock will fit my front rest better and hopefully I will improve my score.
Plus with the 56, you get the better IMO trigger T-06 than the 54 in 1.77 T-05.
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What is BR, bench rest? I was thinking of hft. But I was also thinking 22.
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I have not shot my 56 yet, but I have shot others and I prefer a thumb hole stock. IMO it makes the weight more manageable, but I specifically purchased it for BR. Last year I used my 54 for both HFT and BR with a 12x Scope and I really struggled seeing the Targets. I plan on putting a higher power Scope on my 56 and I believe the 56 stock will fit my front rest better and hopefully I will improve my score.
Plus with the 56, you get the better IMO trigger T-06 than the 54 in 1.77 T-05.
What distances are you shooting BR at?
-Y
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Yes BR (Bench Rest), 25M USARB (United States Air Rifle Bench Rest)
HFT (Hunter Field Target) I am pretty sure you can shoot both 1.77 and .22, but since 1.77 is smaller it gets the advantage hitting the small KZ (kill Zone) easier.
BR, I have heard the advantage goes to .22 because the larger size has a better chance of hitting the bull line and the heavier weight bucks the wind better. But the Guys that shoot the FWB 300s all of which are 1.77 score at the top. I have had better accuracy with my 1.77's over the one .22 Springer that I had.
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I have not shot my 56 yet, but I have shot others and I prefer a thumb hole stock. IMO it makes the weight more manageable, but I specifically purchased it for BR. Last year I used my 54 for both HFT and BR with a 12x Scope and I really struggled seeing the Targets. I plan on putting a higher power Scope on my 56 and I believe the 56 stock will fit my front rest better and hopefully I will improve my score.
Plus with the 56, you get the better IMO trigger T-06 than the 54 in 1.77 T-05.
What distances are you shooting BR at?
-Y
25M, but there are also 75 and 100 yard matches that I have not shot yet.
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Sounds like fun! :D
25 yard BR should be pretty easy...not surprising that many FWB 300 shooters do well. It is one of the most accurate springers ever made!
I bet it does not do so well at 50 and 100 yards, :-[
-Y
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Sounds like fun! :D
25 yard BR should be pretty easy...not surprising that many FWB 300 shooters do well. It is one of the most accurate springers ever made!
I bet it does not do so well at 50 and 100 yards, :-[
-Y
I am amazed how fun it is, I really did not think I would like it, in fact I had to force myself to get up early and make that long drive. But once I tried it I was hooked! I really wish more folks would give it a try, the more people that participate the more fun!
I look forward to the challenge of shooting longer distances, agree with the lower power of the 300s probably not doing well?
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OK, let's dispel some myths:
1.- The three part barrel assembly (Barrel core, thin liner and then sheath) was developed for the 48 to dampen the barrel's vibrations at high power. The system works. The only better system (impossible when the 48 was invented), is to Carbon Fiber the barrel in a well laid CF tube (not all the tubes are laid out for maximum longitudinal stiffness).
2.- The tabs on the barrel sheath at the stock end of the 54/56 are there to prevent debris from falling into the action while shooting in the field. Under NO account should those tabs touch the stock, they are not there to align anything.
3.- Stock screws are small because there is very little stress on them. 18 in-lbs should be more than enough. If you use more, the gun may still shoot OK, but the rubber washers that SHOULD keep some pliability under tension will not be doing their proper job, use blue loc-tite once you find what tension your rifle is most accurate at. In the 12 ft-lbs CCA version, self leveling washers are used, but then the hardware of the stock is removed and the inside of the "inletting" is refinished to waterproof.
4.- The sled system has two blocks, the front block uses ONE pin/rail, the rear block uses TWO. The space between them is where the release tension is adjusted and set. There are two possible extreme settings:
a) To make it as hard as possible but still allow the sled to release (useful in hunting guns)
b) To make it as easy as possible, but yet prevent any accidental releases (useful in target shooting)
5.- 54 and 56 are the EXACT same powerplant. The differences are the stock, the MW and the length of the shim, sheath on the barrel.
6.-The rivets are rivets, they hold the block where the barrel was inserted. Up until before the T/H line, all actions had one rivet. From the T/H line onwards and now they are manufacturing at ENSE, all actions have double rivets.
You should get 5/8"c-c groups at 35 yards OoB, tuned you can about half that.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/923/QHHJqX.jpg)
HTH, keep well and shoot straight!
Héctor
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Thanks Hector. Very helpful.
Too confirm, the trigger guard screws only hold the trigger guard to the stock. They do not screw into the rear of the action like a HW, correct?
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Thanks Hector. Very helpful.
Too confirm, the trigger guard screws only hold the trigger guard to the stock. They do not screw into the rear of the action like a HW, correct?
The REAR trigger guard screw does screw only into the wood of the stock, the FRONT trigger guard screw holds a piece of steel that holds the trigger pins in place. That piece of steel is a source of noise. When I do a 54 or a 56, I insert external retainer rings in the trigger pins
(http://imageshack.com/a/img907/4326/EPsGYW.jpg)
and also put some UHDPE tape on that piece to avoid noise and vibrations. In WFTF guns, that piece gets removed and replaced for a nut that is inletted into the stock.
Hope this helps
Keep well and shoot straight!
HM
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If I use 18 in-lbs on the stock screws, what do you suggest for tightening this FRONT trigger guard screw?
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If I use 18 in-lbs on the stock screws, what do you suggest for tightening this FRONT trigger guard screw?
18 in-lbs is about as high as you want to go. It is up to you to determine where the gun shoots best.
On the front trigger guard screw just get it snug. And snug means less than 10 in-lbs.
You would have to have a somewhat sophisticated torque wrench to actually measure a lower number.
HTH
HM
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Dangit. Why do I have to mess with everything? :o
I started today with a nice plinking session with the 56TH, smashing everything and picking my shot placement at ease. The little steel chickens were flying everywhere and I'm hitting dime size targets repeatedly. After 100 shots I took a break, then decided to remove the action from the stock and apply some moly to the spring guide. I did this using a toothpick through the smallish inspection hole. I did what I could, just small dabs as it did look dry, then spent a few minutes looking at the sled components which looked as expected from the other posts and pictures I've seen.
The sled washers fell out when I removed the stock, so had to guess at the order when I put it back together. On the rear I put on a metal washer, then the rubber one between it and the stock. On the front I sandwiched the rubber washer between the 2 metal washers. Was this correct? I then torqued the 2 stock screws to approx. 16 in-lbs, and only snugged up the trigger guard screws as I learned they do not go into the action anywhere.
Accuracy was terrible when I resumed shooting. I shot groups as usually a small readjustment of the scope is needed anytime I reseat an action back into the stock. I went from a PCP-like stacking/cloverleafs of pellets at 35 yards to 1" and 1.25" groups. At times it seemed like 2 groups kept appearing within each 5 shot group. I rechecked everything, checked my scope screws, quickly cleaned the barrel, still shooting poorly.
The sled action feels as it did before, which seems to be working as per all the things I've read. I didn't fool with it when I had it apart, looked lightly oiled, all the parts working.
So any tips on this 56TH? I removed the trigger guard as I thought I needed to. But upon disassembly it appeared that was not needed. I put the trigger guard back on and screwed the front screw into that plate so the stock and plate were one unit, then dropped the action back in and torqued the 2 front stock screws to the 16 in-lbs. This seemed right as the action can't be bound to the trigger guard or the sled wouldn't move.
Anything else to check? How about the order of those washers?
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Dangit. Why do I have to mess with everything? :o
I started today with a nice plinking session with the 56TH, smashing everything and picking my shot placement at ease. The little steel chickens were flying everywhere and I'm hitting dime size targets repeatedly. After 100 shots I took a break, then decided to remove the action from the stock and apply some moly to the spring guide. I did this using a toothpick through the smallish inspection hole. I did what I could, just small dabs as it did look dry, then spent a few minutes looking at the sled components which looked as expected from the other posts and pictures I've seen.
The sled washers fell out when I removed the stock, so had to guess at the order when I put it back together. On the rear I put on a metal washer, then the rubber one between it and the stock. On the front I sandwiched the rubber washer between the 2 metal washers. Was this correct? I then torqued the 2 stock screws to approx. 16 in-lbs, and only snugged up the trigger guard screws as I learned they do not go into the action anywhere.
Accuracy was terrible when I resumed shooting. I shot groups as usually a small readjustment of the scope is needed anytime I reseat an action back into the stock. I went from a PCP-like stacking/cloverleafs of pellets at 35 yards to 1" and 1.25" groups. At times it seemed like 2 groups kept appearing within each 5 shot group. I rechecked everything, checked my scope screws, quickly cleaned the barrel, still shooting poorly.
The sled action feels as it did before, which seems to be working as per all the things I've read. I didn't fool with it when I had it apart, looked lightly oiled, all the parts working.
So any tips on this 56TH? I removed the trigger guard as I thought I needed to. But upon disassembly it appeared that was not needed. I put the trigger guard back on and screwed the front screw into that plate so the stock and plate were one unit, then dropped the action back in and torqued the 2 front stock screws to the 16 in-lbs. This seemed right as the action can't be bound to the trigger guard or the sled wouldn't move.
Anything else to check? How about the order of those washers?
Wad! You broke it!
Now you will have to send it to me! LOL!
Just kidding. Your washers seem tobe in the correct order.
Lubing the guide is a sure way to alter the harmonics of a gun.
Unless you are planning on re-tuning, it is not a wise thing to do.
So, I would look into the MW. Make sure it is not loose and the front screw in end is as tight as it was before.
Then experiment with the stock screws. Start at just snug and tighten front, then back shooting a group at each setting.
Remember I told you 18 was as high as you could go, but it didn't mean that you should start near the top.
Start low and experiment.
HTH
HM
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Fwiw I've found Park Tools torque wrenches are handy and accurate. My tw-1 is 0-60 inch pounds across a 2 inch indicator each way scale. Bike tools ftw.
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While pulling patches through my 56TH barrel (mine is .22) I could feel tightness at the first couple inches of the breech and then again right at the end of the barrel. I decided to push some pellets and see how they did. I used a length of stiff string trimmer cord since I had to bend it a bit to get started in the breech.
JSB 15.8 and 18.1 grain pellets required moderate pressure the first 3 inches from the breech, then no pressure at all until they hit the choke at the end.
Both H&N Sniper Medium 18gr. and H&N FTT 14.6 grain (5.53 headsize) required moderate pressure the first 3 inches from the breech, then I couldn't go further with the pressure I could apply with the string trimmer cord. So no idea if they were any better through the loose stretch.
This is the loosest I've ever noticed on any of my better airgun barrels. It seems to prefer the JSB although gun is still breaking in so haven't put much faith in groups. Regardless, can't get a specific headsize in JSB anymore so can't look for one that is bigger.
I'm currently shooting the JSB 15.8gr. at 760fps and wondering if the H&N FTT at 14.6 is too light for this magnum springer?
Curious if this is normal for a Diana barrel as this is my first.
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Clean the barrel!
When I got my 340 N-Tec I could barely load a pellet the breech leeds was so tight. I use Jb Non-Embedding Bore Paste and a brass brush to open it up.
You may want to do the same. ;)
Just my $0.02
-Yogi
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I have cleaned the barrel. The tightness I reported is what I consider normal - the barrel is allowing the rifling to imprint on the pellet. It is the looseness that concerns me where the pellet is possibly not contacting the rifling through 70% of the length of the barrel.
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While pulling patches through my 56TH barrel (mine is .22) I could feel tightness at the first couple inches of the breech and then again right at the end of the barrel. I decided to push some pellets and see how they did. I used a length of stiff string trimmer cord since I had to bend it a bit to get started in the breech.
JSB 15.8 and 18.1 grain pellets required moderate pressure the first 3 inches from the breech, then no pressure at all until they hit the choke at the end.
Both H&N Sniper Medium 18gr. and H&N FTT 14.6 grain (5.53 headsize) required moderate pressure the first 3 inches from the breech, then I couldn't go further with the pressure I could apply with the string trimmer cord. So no idea if they were any better through the loose stretch.
This is the loosest I've ever noticed on any of my better airgun barrels. It seems to prefer the JSB although gun is still breaking in so haven't put much faith in groups. Regardless, can't get a specific headsize in JSB anymore so can't look for one that is bigger.
I'm currently shooting the JSB 15.8gr. at 760fps and wondering if the H&N FTT at 14.6 is too light for this magnum springer?
Curious if this is normal for a Diana barrel as this is my first.
Wad,
Remember this:
"6.-The rivets are rivets, they hold the block where the barrel was inserted. Up until before the T/H line, all actions had one rivet. From the T/H line onwards and now they are manufacturing at ENSE, all actions have double rivets."
????????????
Take apart your gun and measure where the pellets become loose and you will see that its location is pretty much where the barrel was inserted into the block and then this was riveted to the mechanisms tube.
These "tight" spots is one of the things that need to be gotten rid of for maximum accuracy and precision, for average hunting and plinking purposes the choke will be enough to "rectify" the pellet further and ensure normal accuracy.
And, sorry to say so, but your best bet in the long run is to have this done by a Pro.
I will be mailing later today a gun that was prepared as a "National Park Hunter", meaning that it has been tuned to hunt with Non-Lead pellets. This is a picture of the target of the Barrel Harmonics tune process:
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/922/7f4olQ.jpg)
These are 5 shot groups at 35 yards and the black bullseyes measure a tad under ½".
Keep well and HTH!
HM
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On my .22 RWS54, I've found that my most accurate pellet to date is the JSB 18.1 gr. I've tried HN FTT 14.66 in 5.53 and 5.54 mm and found that for my gun, they were not as consistent as the JSB 18.1.
The JSBs do fit in the breech looser than the HNs.
BTW: I've tried HN FTT 14.66, RWS Superdomes and JSB 14.35
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I tempted fate today and shot a few groups in some breezy cold weather with my various springers. I shot in between breezes by keeping one eye on my wind flag. This was the only group I tried with the 56TH and figured I'd stop right there ;D
I shoot groups at 35 yards at a steel plate with 1/4" holes drilled in it as aiming points. Most of that group is just paint splattering away so feeling pretty good about the rifle's capability!
(http://i.imgur.com/Hp2JjjV.png)
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...and to further tempt fate...I've shot just over 500 rounds and my cheaper Leapers 3-9x40 is still hanging tough in it's 1-piece mount. No slippage either - I have marks around the rings. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
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I'm currently shooting the JSB 15.8gr. at 760fps and wondering if the H&N FTT at 14.6 is too light for this magnum springer?
Keeping in mind that my .177 shot best with 10.2 to 10.5 gr. pellets, I don't think 14.6 is too light. It may not shoot the most accurately or carry the most downrange energy, but it's certainly not too light.
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I tempted fate today and shot a few groups in some breezy cold weather with my various springers. I shot in between breezes by keeping one eye on my wind flag. This was the only group I tried with the 56TH and figured I'd stop right there ;D
I shoot groups at 35 yards at a steel plate with 1/4" holes drilled in it as aiming points. Most of that group is just paint splattering away so feeling pretty good about the rifle's capability!
(http://i.imgur.com/Hp2JjjV.png)
Pretty good Wad!
HM
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Continuing to shoot and enjoy this gun, but starting to get more aware of a noise. It is a heavy buzzy twang that will make everybody think of spring twang when they read that, but it sounds like is is coming more from the action and/or other moving parts. The big hollow section of the stock seems to help accentuate the noise. I'm sure a spring tune will help a lot but would love to identify and eliminate any other sources. Any ideas on this model?
Not sure if related but I've also noticed a little movement in the sled action. With the gun horizontal I can lift/lower the cocking handle a tiny bit and hear/feel a little movement. I'm pretty sure this is movement allowed by the guides, and might be the spring loaded bearings moving with the spring? The sled itself feels properly adjusted so this might be movement that can't be eliminated due to the springs naturally needing to move?
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I have not shot mine yet and have no idea what the noise may be? Not sure either on the movement, other than the normal sled movement while cocking?
Maybe this video may help?
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=123537.0 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=123537.0)
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A tiny bit of side to side, or lateral rocking, is normal for the 54. Both of mine do it, and the general consensus from those who know much more than me, is that it is a non issue. Rocking along the long axis of the rifle isn't something that I've ever seen.
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It isn't side to side, it is up/down. Kinda like what you would expect if the stock bolts weren't threaded in all the way (although they are)
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Hadn't shot the 56TH in a couple weeks, distracted by a new PCP I picked up. Anyway decided to put a few shots downrange on my 49 yard range. Feeling pretty good with this and wish I could do more longer range shooting. My 49 yards range has limitations so can't do a lot of it. Gun has great potential!
(http://i.imgur.com/gThGwRM.jpg)
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Very impressive, how does the accuracy compare to the HW110?
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Very impressive, how does the accuracy compare to the HW110?
At 35 yards the HW110 is generally tighter.
At 49 yards I think the wind was helping open up my HW110 groups as it is 177, so the 56TH was doing better (today).
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Must be my lucky day (well, it is...it's my birthday ;D)
(http://i.imgur.com/CZhu5By.jpg)
It's been a hard day on the ol' 49 yard golfball...
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Great Shootin !! Happy Birthday
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PCP Accuracy!
Happy Birthday!
Enjoy!
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That group show why our 56th's cost so much.
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That is great shooting!!