GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Vintage Air Gun Gate => Topic started by: Hoosier Daddy on February 05, 2017, 10:02:52 AM
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After a long search for the favorite airgun of my youth, I finally got my hands another one.
Yesterday I received my next project thanks to jaraxle1zx here on GTA. He had picked it up from a Pawn Shop and it had issues, he went to the Darkside and wanted to pass this one on to someone. The stars and Moon aligned and I now have a new-2-me Benji 342 serial number T130233.
Jason let me know the pump arm was bent when he got it Looks to me like it was folded over and straightened in a vice at some point. Shortly after that it failed to fire. Now it barely pumps up and if it does, it wont hold air overnight. So it needs a thorough going over.
The metal finish is showing hardly any wear and the wood has some very nice grain under the factory finish that is in "fair" condition. So it really is a good candidate. This is EXACTLY what I wanted!! A project with real potential to repair and bring back from the dead.
Plans are to get it shooting again, enjoy it a bit, then address the wood after that.
I will keep this updated as progress goes, but I am not under a deadline to get this one brought back, instead want to take my time and do it right.
If anyone has pump linkage for a 34X please let me know. Meanwhile I will contact Baker, Mac1 and Precision Pellet in search of a good used set.
Any-how... enough of the introduction, here she is this morning. Next time you see her she will be in pieces. ;)
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u670/Hoosierb17/Hobbies/IMG_20170205_054040409_zpsjwu9amvl.jpg)
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u670/Hoosierb17/Hobbies/IMG_20170205_054346625_zps0zgmytb7.jpg)
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Wow!, is that nice wood. Beautiful! Fun to have a winter project to work on, eh?
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I bet when you get her finished up she will be not only a shooter but a looker!!!
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Looking good Scott. I love my 342, I like the fatter stock as oppose to the 31x rifles. In response to your PM, no I don't have another 34x pump linkage, only a few bent ones. Probably like the one on yours. Most likely from over pumping at some point.
Edit* I just looked at title again. I posted a 1972 347 last night. Which has checkering on the grip and forearm. Doesn't look like yours does?
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I often wondered about the weakness in the pump arm linkage. Had an idea but haven't pursued yet. I was thinking of taking it to Lowes ( or just measure it ). The have a rack of shorts. Round stock, flats, angles and such. Find a flat bar that fits or comes close to fitting in the U channel of the pump arm. Simple shop tools can be used to shape it as a filler. Or even make a whole ne solid one. If nothing else, it can be used until you can find an original replacement if desired.
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I did put some tung oil on the faded places.
Thought that was one of the few things I could do without changing the factory finish.
Gun stock is really nice wood and you could make it beautiful, but on other hand a 40+ year old stock with factory finish is pretty cool too.
Be neat to see what path you take.
Not sure why the rabbit magnum pellet took the seal out but before that your gun was a real shooter.
I've since given the 4 tins of rabbit magnum pellets away, never had luck of shooting them through any gun and did want to jinx anymore guns.
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Thanks for the info on the tung oil Jason. That will help if / when I do refinish it.
I reached out to Rick at Precision pellet (www.airgunshop.net (http://www.airgunshop.net)), he says he has the pump linkage. Getting pricing from him on that and some seal kits.
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I just hung up the phone with Rick at Precision Pellet.
What a Super Guy!
20 minutes he spent with me to get it right, comparing the 342 to my 312, then onto the 312's issue, and then the 392P questions I had.
He has re-pop's of the factory 342 linkage, needed replacement pump cup assembly for the 312, and a seal kit That should come with enough parts to fit any of the three. Whichever I need it for... We talked of the conical spring differences and lead vs buna seals on the soldered in valves.. On and On.
WOW! I am impressed!
Order placed and going out tomorrow.
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On the subject of lead vs rubber valve seals, what is the verdict? Why lead? Can an o-ring work just as well?
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On the subject of lead vs rubber valve seals, what is the verdict? Why lead? Can an o-ring work just as well?
Rick specifically said, if the lower seal is lead, leave it alone and reuse it.
If it is a flat faced Buna o-ring it should be replaced and use the Buna seal in the kit..
If for some reason the lead seal does need to be replaced his kit had enough to provide for both lead seals, one lead one Buna, or any combination,
Stressed replace lead with lead... and Buna with Buna.
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I always reuse the lead if it's there. Especially, that forward one as we know it can be a pain to get it off that ledge.
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Valve extraction tool's ordered, I got it with a seal kit from PA for only a little more than the tool alone. That "kit" looks like it has some but not all of the parts the seal kit from Precision Pellet is coming with...
So I will have more parts to go in one of the other pumpers if ever needed.
While I had everybody out to compare and swap sights I took a new family photo. :D
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u670/Hoosierb17/Hobbies/IMG_20170212_0325556972_zps3bilp0on.jpg)
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What are you going to put on the Dan, sighting device? Gonna spread the legs on the original rear and re-install?
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For the 'Dan I got a Williams 5D-SH Peep that came off the 392PA.
The 392PA now has the scope that came off the 392P.
The 392P also had it's factory rear still so that is what I will be using for it..
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Valve extraction tool's ordered, I got it with a seal kit from PA for only a little more than the tool alone. That "kit" looks like it has some but not all of the parts the seal kit from Precision Pellet is coming with...
So I will have more parts to go in one of the other pumpers if ever needed.
While I had everybody out to compare and swap sights I took a new family photo. :D
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u670/Hoosierb17/Hobbies/IMG_20170212_0325556972_zps3bilp0on.jpg)
I can see I have some catchin up to do. Very nice!!!
I have a hard enough time photographing one let alone 5. How high off the ground were you?
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Me? I was standing flat footed, but my arms were stretched up holding the camera so figure 7'...
I think I've learned not to try and play "keep up with the Jones's" here on GTA. Some of these guys have ROOMS for their collection.
I just wanted an old 342 Pumper like I had when I was a kid. The rest of these came along while I tried to find it! ;D
If one happens to come up, I might add a Pre-War Benji pumper Model "E", "F", or "G"or two...
and a 132 pistol...
and maybe an H9...
Jeeze that's just the .22's ::)
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Hey Bill? I think you resemble that remark. 8)
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Heh, heh... ya.
Bill might have been one I was thinkin 'bout
Wait until you see a photo of Dez's
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Scott, hope you don’t mind my temporary highjack but I have a question; I am obviously new to this hobby & have only researched the 880 & the Sheridan, & am only interested in pumpers. From what I’ve gathered the Sheridan is hard to beat. If the Sheridan is 1st on many lists, what would be the second & third choices as far as something comparable or even better than the Sheridan & why?
Thanks
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Boy Marty, I sure don't mind and I am honored your asking me. I have only been back into this hobby / sport about a year now.
That said, The Benjamin Pumpers were Sheridan's nearest competition back in the day. I bought the 342, neighbor kid bought a 'Dan. same summer about '75 I think...
In my opinion they are a very close second. The one thing I like better is their .177 / .22 pellets are more readily available.
Story is Sheridan created the .20 caliber specifically for their guns and it WORKS! You just have had to order it around here.
Next on my list would be the Crosman 140 / 1400 those also have a loyal following here, and for good reason.
They had some BEAUTIFUL lines, good shooters and some had really nice wood! They were also sold at Sears and Roebuck and carried that "Sears" name and model 126, and I am sure many a young lad circled them in the Christmas catalog.
https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2008/11/the-crosman-1400-pumpmaster-an-american-classic-part-1/ (https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2008/11/the-crosman-1400-pumpmaster-an-american-classic-part-1/)
Lastly, (and I might get lynched for this)... ...before I'd own another 880, some 45 years later, I'd get an old Wood-N-Metal Crosman 760.
There ya have it, guys like Bill and Rob know WAY more than me, but hey, you asked! ;D
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Thanks Scott. I just want to be prepared in case I'm out snooping around & happen to bump into something worth while.
FWIW...there's absolutely nothing to honored about at this end...trust me.
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Don't forget Crosman's 1377, 1322 and 2289. They are a different breed than the Benji and 'Dan pumpers, but still very worth owning and lots of fun ti tinker with. Some of them are vintage, too.
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Lot of people like their Dans. I do too, but do prefer the Benji 312 and 342. As they are my favorite 2 of all the pumpers I'm hordeing over here. The 31x and 34x series are quite different from one another. Though technically the 31x are the big brother of the 34x they aren't bigger. The 31x have very slim furniture this could be a turnoff for some. They tend to have what we call the tootsie roll forearm. Whereas the 34x have thicker furniture, not thick and bulky like the current Benji 39x's. They are very comfortable in hand. I personally feel of all model Benji's, Dans, and Crosman the 34x series is the best. I know I'm gonna get disagreements, but I'd take a 342 over a Dan in same condition any day. They are more compact and slightly lighter than the Dans. The Benji's in general do seem to pump a bit easier than the Dans and both much easier than the 39x's. No worry about rear sight causing barrel separation.
Now, there are other nice models to look out for. Mines not for sale, but maybe Scott would be nice enough to sell you his 392P. These P model Benji's are excellent rifles. Stamped Racine WI like the Sheridans, but are Benji's. You will find a model PA that's much like the P, but Crosman stamped. If it's got the push-pull safety behind the breech. That's worth getting they are just like the P model just stamped different. Nice wood, nice trigger assembly, soldered valve, well built.
Like Scott said the 140/1400 is a nice add. They can be found for cheap. Shoot as well as any other pumper. They are much quieter too. Look for a Sears model cause they can have the breech area grooved for a scope. Than you can save a few bucks from having to buy intermounts.
(http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/y364/Rob112o/benjamin%20rifles/image_zpsgnv1t28e.jpeg) (http://s1030.photobucket.com/user/Rob112o/media/benjamin%20rifles/image_zpsgnv1t28e.jpeg.html)
392P top 342 bottom
(http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/y364/Rob112o/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-07/575E2098-F091-4CDC-8DF8-3BC5B1F0078A_zpsa8awmmdi.png) (http://s1030.photobucket.com/user/Rob112o/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-07/575E2098-F091-4CDC-8DF8-3BC5B1F0078A_zpsa8awmmdi.png.html)
140 requiring the use of an intermount
(http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/y364/Rob112o/Mobile%20Uploads/047524B1-CB2B-4B90-BE2D-6C07681BB128_zpsiwzbucug.jpg) (http://s1030.photobucket.com/user/Rob112o/media/Mobile%20Uploads/047524B1-CB2B-4B90-BE2D-6C07681BB128_zpsiwzbucug.jpg.html)
Sears model 1400 with grooves. Can notice how much lower scope is.
(http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/y364/Rob112o/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/B1594C95-8218-4AB1-8E42-55336F853E2F_zpss0knuimc.jpg) (http://s1030.photobucket.com/user/Rob112o/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/B1594C95-8218-4AB1-8E42-55336F853E2F_zpss0knuimc.jpg.html)
P model trigger assembly you should look out for
(http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/y364/Rob112o/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsybhvxryj.jpeg) (http://s1030.photobucket.com/user/Rob112o/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsybhvxryj.jpeg.html)
This is my 317 w/ tootsie roll. So if you see tootsie roll in a for sale that's what they are talking about.
(http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/y364/Rob112o/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpshc3siqdg.png) (http://s1030.photobucket.com/user/Rob112o/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpshc3siqdg.png.html)
312 up top next to a modern 392
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Rob...I KNEW you had a 342 you were holding out on me!!! "Truck Gun" my butt!! ;D ;)
And yes, the 392P / 397P models are as close to a 342 / 347 as you can get without being there.... But no, you can't have mine!
P model trigger assembly you should look out for
As in a GOOD way!! Not something to avoid. That is one sweet trigger when cleaned and lubed.
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A picture is worth 1000 words...
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DANG IT BILL!!!
She is a sweetie :-*
I think you just reclaimed your "Enabler status" back.
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Props go to Mr. Decker for bringing that beauty back. I paid less than $100 for it and I had seen others he had done and I knew he was the man for that job. I need to get some updated pics of "Geronimo". He now wears a leather wrap handguard and hawk feather tassel at the muzzle. Gnat nut accurate at 30+ yds.
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Rob...I KNEW you had a 342 you were holding out on me!!! "Truck Gun" my butt!! ;D ;)
And yes, the 392P / 397P models are as close to a 342 / 347 as you can get without being there.... But no, you can't have mine!
P model trigger assembly you should look out for
As in a GOOD way!! Not something to avoid. That is one sweet trigger when cleaned and lubed.
The 342 isn't a truck gun, not by a long shot. The 317 in the above pic is/was the truck gun. Though it does look quite nice in that pic it's got a few dings, scuffs, half cracked forearm that I needed to fix. I believe at the time it was the 347 that was the truck gun. That if you wanted I would sell you that. (It's currently up for sale in my listing with the other Sheridans and C9A). The 342 is a keeper. Filing that front post to a point really gets it more accurate. Also brightens it up without the use of paint/whiteout.
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Aaaaaand, the rifle Bill posted. I haven't had the fortune of getting one of them Crosman 101/102/10x. I was close a few times, but one reason or another I bailed on them. I can't comment with experience if they are any good, but I've read enough threads from various members to know they are worth a purchase. Now there are other pumpers not many people have that you should try to get a hold of. 1 being a Sharp Innova and another I've wanted a Challenger Plainsman Rifle.
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Another I think I forgot to mention was the 392C as in Carbine.
Something like 3" shorter than the current 392PA and it has a Sheridan style Rocker Safety.
Kind of rare I believe so I will keep a watchful eye out for one of those.
Rob, I was just bustin' your chops, I knew you had the 342, I saw posts of it before and figured it was a keeper, When I asked if you had one fore sale you did let my know about the "Truck-Gun" you would be willing to part with. but I was after a .22 size.
Now as far as MY 342 refurb goes, Yesterday the new pump arm and other parts arrived from Precision Pellet so the disassemble and cleaning began.
Good news is THIS time, after 40+ years, I rembered about the detente ball and spring on the bolt, and the thumb safety... so I was ready for them to pop out. Captured BOTH on disassembly!
I still don't have the special tool , that should be here tomorrow. So I want as far as I could without it.
Once I got down to the soldered valve I could tell the lubed had had turned to a thick black grease rather than oil. I hosed the inside with Brake cleaner, and blew it out with compressed air. I have a 3/4" wooden dowel that fits nicely into the pump tube and I poured in rubbing alcohol and using the dowel was able to work the exhaust valve. At first it seemed a little stuck but after a few turns with the alcohol in one end then the other it freed up and started working every time. Once cleaned I put some Marvel Mystery Oil on a rag with my gun cleaning rod swabbed it down and still got more black, did this and followed with a dry cloth until it came out clean. Then cleaned the pump cup and rod.
Again,it was packed with the lube that had turned to a black grease , but once cleaned up the pump cup looked to be in nice condition. no cracks, little if and wear and flexible. I coated it with the MMO and now she sits until I can work more on it tonight.
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u670/Hoosierb17/Hobbies/IMG_20170214_194314039_zps6wyqsuun.jpg)
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Did some more cleaning / lubing of the small bits last night then reassembled. The new pump linkage fit very well, all the holes lined right up.
I did give the hammer spring a light stretch, just a bit. I cycled it several time with various pumps and the gun dry fires nice and strong.
The pump handle does not close completely flat. It hangs open just a tad. You can squeeze it closed but it springs back, say 1/8". The geometry of the new link may be a skosh different... after all, that's why the pump rod is adjustable, to compensate for factory tolerances, right?
So tonight I will pull the nose cap and pump back apart and see if adjusting the rod a little shorter is enough.
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Pix?!
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I'll take some and post when I get home.
Last night I tried shortening the pump rod a half turn of the threads. When assembled it "seemed" like it pumped easier, maybe just my imagination... but the handle still doesn't close completely flush at the rear next to the stock. I am concerned the linkage inst exactly "Perfect" but more testing is needed before "Tweeking" the bend in it.
It does dump all of 7 pumps and just a "whisp" left at 8.
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Pull the spring out of the valve and give it a squeeze in a vise until all coils touch. Hold it there for a moment then put it back in. That should dump it. If you go too far you might just need to cock the bolt before pumping so it will seal the valve pin and take air. Like most of us have said before, rarely do we pump them past 5 or 6 anyhow.
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If your pump handle is hanging open, I think you need to go the other way: lengthen the piston rod slightly so it touches the valve face just before closing?
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Not hanging open...Latches hard. Just not "level"
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Lost track here; Thanks Tracy, Rob & Bill for pointing out those other models, & Rob wow great looking collection!
We'll be having another gun show in a few month's so this is very helpful.
Thanx
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Not hanging open...Latches hard. Just not "level"
Probably just the way the wood was shaped/drilled from the factory. I have an early 397P, the pump handle doesn't line up with the stock at all... shoots good though. I don't much care for those later, blocky Benjamin stocks. Don't know what they were thinking, ugly as all get-out. And the stepped, "Monte Carlo" butt looks really awkward to me. I like the older stock with the "tootsie roll" pump handle much better. Just my opinion.
I wouldn't go trying to bend that linkage in any way.
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I think that is the issue Terry, just not lining up. After shortening the pump rod a half turn it still isn't flush with the tube at the back of the pump handle. Might be my imagination but it doesn't "sound" as strong as it did before. I'm going to take it back apart and put the pump rod length back were it was.
Got it out last night and she is definitely a "shooter" though!
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u670/Hoosierb17/Hobbies/IMG_20170217_170150088_HDR_zpsor2poylc.jpg)
Started out low and to the left (top targets) but dialed her right in at 10 yrds (Bottom) on the 3" targets.
The I aimed at a few pop cans at 20 and 25... Shot over the top at s pumps . Seems the pellet was still climbing in it's trajectory at 10 yds... So I moved the sight back down a notch at it is good enough for plinkin' now with CPHP's
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u670/Hoosierb17/Hobbies/IMG_20170217_170746624_zpsris58bvx.jpg)
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It's a good shooter, that's what matters most. I have a few guns with cosmetic issues, I don't let it bother me much. Heading to a gun show here in town this morning to see what I can find...
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I sight mine in at 30 yds. with 5 - 6 pumps. Basically I want 4 pumps at 10 yds. for plinking. Then when I increase distance to 30 yds. i'm on target with 5 - 6. Now I can reach out to 40 - 45 yds. effectively at 8 pumps and give Mr. Squizzel his lead breakfast.
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Well I'm doing something right then.. 10 yards was getting 4 pumps and stepped up to 6 pumps for 20-25.
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One of my favorite features of the pumper.. I can adjust power and accuracy just by more or less pumps. Something you can't do with a spring/gas ram gun. You have to rely on hold over/under. Don't get me wrong, I own and enjoy spring/gas guns but, I'm just an old school pumper kinda guy at heart.
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I think that is the issue Terry, just not lining up. After shortening the pump rod a half turn it still isn't flush with the tube at the back of the pump handle. Might be my imagination but it doesn't "sound" as strong as it did before. I'm going to take it back apart and put the pump rod length back were it was.
Got it out last night and she is definitely a "shooter" though!
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u670/Hoosierb17/Hobbies/IMG_20170217_170150088_HDR_zpsor2poylc.jpg)
Started out low and to the left (top targets) but dialed her right in at 10 yrds (Bottom) on the 3" targets.
The I aimed at a few pop cans at 20 and 25... Shot over the top at s pumps . Seems the pellet was still climbing in it's trajectory at 10 yds... So I moved the sight back down a notch at it is good enough for plinkin' now with CPHP's
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u670/Hoosierb17/Hobbies/IMG_20170217_170746624_zpsris58bvx.jpg)
Looks very nice Scott! Glad it all worked out.
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Scott, when you say "isn't sitting flush"? You mean the forearm is a little left or right, right? If that's the case, I'm sure you use felt pads for forearm slap? I've had a couple like that myself and to solve the issue I would set/stack the felt pads so it would push it in the direction I wanted. Say your arm is being pushed to the right. I'd start with 1 circle felt pad toward the left on inside of forearm. Not enough? I'd stack another on top of that. Not enough? Try 1 more, so now you have 3 now. If it's now too much and the forearm is now too left. Just use the rifle a bit as those felt pads will compress a bit after being pumped up. I get the assorted size circular felt pads. Im a little anal and like lines to be straight. Haha
Now, when you are adjusting your piston length. You aren't checking if the length is good by driving the roll pins in and out each time? Use that roll pin punch to check distance as it will slide in and out.
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Gun is looking nice!