GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => PCP/CO2/HPA Air Gun Gates "The Darkside" => Topic started by: Hypervelocity 1 on January 15, 2017, 12:40:24 AM
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I was shooting yesterday in my cellar. well my bolt seemed like it was getting a little harder to engage/disengage, it broke off in my hand.
I was truly amazed! I looked at the bolt where the handle broke, and I couldn't tell how it was attached cause it was flush after breaking.
I Emailed the shop and asked if it was threaded. Indeed it was . Well, guess it was time to go to work. I was deciding whether or not to dis-
assemble the rifle , or try to operate with it intact. Leaving the rifle together seemed a lot easier to me if It would turn out like that. First thing I did was oil up the bolt with some air tool oil I had. Now the bolt can be grabbed from behind cause it slides out the back of the action.
It seemed to be sliding better now with the lube all over it. I positioned the rifle in the original styrofoam half of box it came mailed in with the bolt facing up at me. I moved it in the position that I could get access to best. I grabbed a 1/16" sell centering bit and threw it in the cordless. It was slow going at first. But after it started cutting slowly, I added a little oil to the bit for better cutting. In about 2 more minutes I was through the broken handle threads. I grabbed a Great Neck EZ-Out that was a 1/16 to 1/8" size. I placed it in the hole and gave it a quick, sharp tap with a small hammer. I grabbed ahold of it with a pair of pliers and gave a slow left turn. Voila' . Bingo! It was coming out.
After getting the offending piece out, several shavings remained all around. After choosing my next course of action, I grabbed a magnetic swivel headed pick-up tool. Several passes left the slide and action metal shaving free. Took a little trip to the bolt and nut shop and grabbed a few 4mm bolts that were 1and1/2" long and a few 4mm nuts also. They fit perfect. I threaded a nut all the way on one of the bolts to have a little more grip on my new "PELLET SHIFTER." I then applied black electrical tape around the exposed part of the bolt shaft so it wouldn't scratch anything around the action cutout. Works as good as new. Looks good too.
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Nice bit of handiwork!
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Sad to report I'm part of this club as well.
Broke the handle yesterday at the range. Later, was able to unscrew the leftover piece by drilling a small hole in the center and gluing a tiny allen wrench in it. I decided to take the gun apart to make sure I can work on the bolt alone and not the fully-scoped gun. Was also a great excuse to check all the O-rings and clean them up/replace.
I like the solution you came up with and will be on my way to HomeDepot in a few hours 8)
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Also a member of the BBHC (busted bold handle club)...looks like it's not an uncommon problem.
My solution (about 9 months of use now) was to run a 8-32 tap into the existing bolt hole and put on an old Crosman bolt handle (maybe a 2260...maybe a Disco...don't remember where it came from).
Won't cut full depth threads, but enough for a good bite....and lock tite helps.
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t50/ribbonstone/plink/de8d83d4-f60a-4730-930a-01e2bae6a460.jpg) (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/ribbonstone/media/plink/de8d83d4-f60a-4730-930a-01e2bae6a460.jpg.html)
It's a little too thick. Just a little hand polishing of the shank and it locks down with no slack. Figured the "no slack" part was a "plus" as the orginals often have a little slack (we push them forward loading...if there is slack, it would give them a running start at smacking into the locking recess).
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I will never understand why people will buy cheap junk.
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I will never understand why people will buy cheap junk.
Some people buy expensive junk :)
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I will never understand why people will buy cheap junk.
Some people buy expensive junk :)
:D lol 8)
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I will never understand why people will buy cheap junk.
Some people buy expensive junk :)
I like inexpensive junk and I find it very rewarding when I make it better. Expensive Air Guns work and offer no challenge.
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I will never understand why people will buy cheap junk.
Yes for all the reasons listed above . As a tinkerer if I screw up a cheap piece of junk there is no drama and they are useful as learning tools. On the other hand if I screw up one of my expensive pieces of junk there will be drama ;D ;D
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Well so far I haven't screwed up any cheap pieces of junk yet, they're all working just fine 8)
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FYI: If you e-mail Julie at SPA (sales@china-airrifle.com) and let her know your bolt handle broke, she will send you a replacement.
Disclaimer: Mine arrived yesterday, but I wasn't home to sign for it so I don't know if they have improved the quality any over the bolt handles that came with the rifles.
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LOL.... I got a bunch of really good shooting "cheap junk". What I don't understand is people who buy expensive junk that happens to be made the same place the cheap junk is made and claim it's better.
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Is this happening to both the the 177 cal and the .22 cal quite a bit? I've heard of this happening a lot to the .177 cal but if it is happening equally as much to the .22 cal I'd better be planning on a fix soon. Would greasing the bolt help?
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A little gentle polishing with various grades of wet dry paper ending with 1500 grit then some Ultimox #226 applied sparingly or a good quality dry lube will not hurt
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A little gentle polishing with various grades of wet dry paper ending with 1500 grit then some Ultimox #226 applied sparingly or a good quality dry lube will not hurt
Thanks, will do.
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I will never understand why people will buy cheap junk.
Also, some people cannot afford expensive junk, but still want to experience the fun that airguns offer.
A 1.5" group at 50 yds with a tinkered $200 gun is certainly more rewarding than a 10-in-1-hole with a $2000 gun, because it's not expected.
Of course, if you hunt small game, accuracy is a must to achieve humane kills, but then one adjusts the optimal shooting distance accordingly.
I've seen people with AirArms gun screw up because of them, not the gun.
Enjoy your expensive toys and always be safe.
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I will never understand why people will buy cheap junk.
Some people buy expensive junk :)
True that!
My wife and son owns +$100 brand name winter jackets (Under Armour and North Face), both have broken zippers......my son's jacket is less than a year old. I own about 4 jackets, I bought from Walmart, all well under $50 each, I use daily and one even for skiing. All are several years old and still works great and are comfortable. I even have a few(from Walmart) that are twice as old, that I use for dirty jobs, and are still in perfect working conditions.
I'm not saying all cheap things are made well, but I prefer to seek for the diamond in the rough, rather than drinking the "you get, what you pay" for Koolaid
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Hey Guys,
I may soon be a member of this esteemed club ;D. I really enjoy working on junk and own a Diana Stormrider. The bolt hasn't broken yet .....
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2na1x8x.jpg)
Has anyone tried Hardening the threaded end of the bolt handle? Just heat it up with a torch and quench in oil to harden.
After all the problem is soft steel-> Right?
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Problem is likely too hard steel (or it would bend and not just snap at the start of the threads).
As for cheap junk....I rather like outshooting the guy with the expensive toy.
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And as we delve further into the , cons, since there are no pros when it comes to cheap junk, we can see the masses who bought and own cheap junk , come out in droves to defend their cheap junk.
With statements like , " Cheap junk is just as good as the upper echelon." " Cheap junk that is clearly stamped, made in china, is made in the same place as a Daystate"
And my all time favorite, " Cheap junk is more accurate and better built than higher end airguns." Which is obviously why we see them falling apart on a daily basis along with a list of other problems.
Ok I am stopping now, before I have you guys chasing me down the street with nooses and pitchforks.
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No nooses or pitchforks necessarily. A good swift kick in the *** might be warranted though.
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Only time will tell....been several high cost rifles dropped from the market within a year or two, not all becasue they wouldn't sell. Have seen cheap ones fall by the side of the road as well.
I can not fault an PCP for a bad o-ring...o-rings aren't custom or fancy parts, they're just generic.
I can fault poor design...and that bolt handle is a poor design. Really too skinny/brittle for the forces applied to it.
This goes for the expensive and the cheap: the ones that stand the test of time are likely the ones that are "good ones"...lets meet back here in 2022 and see what's shooting.
That's not a lot of time...although some folks change their airguns like normal folks change their socks.
Oldest "cheapie" is the original cheapie: Discovery. So it's likely 8 years old and still working fine. Standard Crosman barrel really can't hang with the Chinese barrels on newer "cheapies", but it's good enough that I left it alone all these years.
In the medium-inexpensive category, there is a Sumatra from about the same era (about 9 years old) and an AA s200 that's about 15. All working fine.
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Ok I am stopping now, before I have you guys chasing me down the street with nooses and pitchforks.
You'll be fine, should we give chase. After all, how will we ever catch you, with you, in those fine Gucci footwear.
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You'll be fine, should we give chase. After all, how will we ever catch you, with you, in those fine Gucci footwear.
lolol
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We can see the masses who bought and own cheap junk , come out in droves to defend their cheap junk.
With statements like , " Cheap junk is just as good as the upper echelon." " Cheap junk is made in the same place as a Daystate". And my all time favorite, " Cheap junk is more accurate and better built than higher end airguns."
You Know........... I don't think anyone (w/any sense) thinks that BAM products, QB's or PR900W's & equivalents are better than AA, Daystate, Weihrauch or Walther guns. That's ridiculous ;D.
However, I will say, these Chinese airguns can be tuned/adjusted/modified/refinished to be about 80% to 90% as accurate as the above Purebreds and look pretty good too. Many GTA members buy them to tinker with and have fun learning to make them better.
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2qw26w0.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2d6o3ns.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2vi30ns.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/f0uss9.jpg)
The Journey is just as important as the final product.
If you just want to shoot ....... buy the best and send it to Motorhead for the premier tune.
Scott even removed the guts of his (2K) RAW, to make it all custom.
It just depends on how far U want or need to go.
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Hey Guys,
I may soon be a member of this esteemed club ;D. I really enjoy working on junk and own a Diana Stormrider. The bolt hasn't broken yet .....
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2na1x8x.jpg)
Has anyone tried Hardening the threaded end of the bolt handle? Just heat it up with a torch and quench in oil to harden.
After all the problem is soft steel-> Right?
Kirk that scope looks like the BSA that I have on my Airmax Dominator
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4363/36912215856_24f2328322_b.jpg)
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Quigley, There is no debating that the higher end production rifles are generally better made with superior materials however the members of this forum are a diverse eclectic group from every level of the social and economic ladder. Many shoot the "Cheap Junk" because they enjoy shooting pellet rifles and the tinker factor for them is what they can afford rather than sending to a pro tuner. You have to admit that tweaking a bargain rifle to shoot dime size groups at 50 yards can be a very satisfying experience.
I Play with my rifles and pistols to relax my brain and that is why I love to tinker with my AG's. When I tinker with my higher end AG's I tend to have this little voice telling me to be extra careful because a damaged part will be extremely costly to replace. Some here don't have the discretionary budget that others have so again they will buy the cheap junk just to get into the game.
I won't be one of those chasing you down the street with burning torches and pitchforks but I will be the guy that will sit next to you at a fun shoot and do my darndest to out shoot you with whatever rifle I am holding at the time whether my mass produced cheapie or my one off custom from Colorado, California or wherever . Be safe and shoot well
Regards
Don
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Quigley, There is no debating that the higher end production rifles are generally better made with superior materials however the members of this forum are a diverse eclectic group from every level of the social and economic ladder. Many shoot the "Cheap Junk" because they enjoy shooting pellet rifles and the tinker factor for them is what they can afford rather than sending to a pro tuner. You have to admit that tweaking a bargain rifle to shoot dime size groups at 50 yards can be a very satisfying experience. I Play with my rifles and pistols to relax my brain and that is why I love to tinker with my AG's. When I tinker with my higher end AG's I tend to have this little voice telling me to be extra careful because a damaged part will be extremely costly to replace. Some here don't have the discretionary budget that others have so again they will buy the cheap junk just to get into the game. I won't be one of those chasing you down the street with burning torches and pitchforks but I will be the guy that will sit next to you at a fun shoot and do my darndest to out shoot you with whatever rifle I am holding at the time whether my mass produced cheapie or my one off custom from Colorado, California or wherever . Be safe and shoot well Regards
Don
Don, you are 100% right on. I have been tinkering with firearms for 40+ years and just got into Air Guns about 3 years ago because of the tinkering factor and I can shoot, with my grandsons, in the backyard and garage at a moments notice. To me the tinkering is 90% of the fun and I get a great amount of my pleasure in modifying and making better the "Cheap Junk". My new hobby is complemented by a fully equipped machine shop.
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Don and Bob I give both your last two posts in this thread a big thumbsup 8) I drive a Ford and Chevy truck and if I all of a sudden got really rich I'd probably buy me a brand new Ford truck but it would have to be a standard cab, I might even get the Harley Davidson version if they're still available new :D
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It's much less embarrassing to report in an international forum that I bought a $200 gun and it broke so this is how I repaired it with awesome results and made it shoot as well or better than a 2k gun than it is to report that I paid 2k for this gun and it broke... or maybe it didn't break yet because I'm so afraid to get it dirty. But that's ok because that guy sitting next to me at the fun shoot has out shot me 4 out of 5 times with that frankengun. Just maybe that's why we hear the stories of cheap gun failures a fixes.
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Quigley, There is no debating that the higher end production rifles are generally better made with superior materials however the members of this forum are a diverse eclectic group from every level of the social and economic ladder. Many shoot the "Cheap Junk" because they enjoy shooting pellet rifles and the tinker factor for them is what they can afford rather than sending to a pro tuner. You have to admit that tweaking a bargain rifle to shoot dime size groups at 50 yards can be a very satisfying experience.
I Play with my rifles and pistols to relax my brain and that is why I love to tinker with my AG's. When I tinker with my higher end AG's I tend to have this little voice telling me to be extra careful because a damaged part will be extremely costly to replace. Some here don't have the discretionary budget that others have so again they will buy the cheap junk just to get into the game.
I won't be one of those chasing you down the street with burning torches and pitchforks but I will be the guy that will sit next to you at a fun shoot and do my darndest to out shoot you with whatever rifle I am holding at the time whether my mass produced cheapie or my one off custom from Colorado, California or wherever . Be safe and shoot well
Regards
Don
Yeah I know man. Im just messin with you guys.
Someones gotta whip yall into a frenzy every now and then.
They all break. Every last darn one of them can break.
It doesnt matter if it costs 200, or 2 thousand dollars.
It can break.
And it can also be fixed.
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No worries Quig... pretty sure everyone here would have a list just like yours if they could. I know I, for one, spent enough money on sub $300 guns in the last 4 years that I could have a list like that. On the other hand, I had a heck of a lot of fun and learned a boatload.
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Coming from humble beginnings, its just been heavily ingrained into my being, to not over spend. While I typically have the money for things I want, it is difficult for me to simply buy whatever my heart desires, without a lot of considerations. Sure, I can afford to drive a Lexus to work, but I opted (and content) for a Corolla.
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I'm just the opposite sort of grew up rather poor but did well for myself and family over the years and recently in the last 10 years have decided that I want the last money in the bank pays for a nice dinner for friends and family after they throw the dirt on my Mahogany coffin ;D ;D ;D
Ps I'm planning to stick around and annoy the heck out of all of them for at least another 25 or 30 years
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Me too.... BTW.... does McDonalds cater?
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Me too.... BTW.... does McDonalds cater?
They're all independently owned, so if you asked the owner, it could just happen. Except for the dollar menu items ;)
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Thank you for stopping. Obviously, we do not seem to agree or move from our respective positions.
Nothing wrong with that. Good thing is, we have choices and are wiling to make the ones that suit us best.
Have fun shooting whatever you like, and enjoy!
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Me too.... BTW.... does McDonalds cater?
I almost stopped by McD's on the way back from the woods today but decided against it in favor of the last of some deer heart stew poured over boiled potato's. I think I'll mix up another batch using the bottom of a front quarter for my next batch.
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Not going back to expensive PCP's.
Started with fill tanks and more expensive PCP's. I pretty soon gave up/sold the tanks. Then figured out that whatever I was doing with $900 air rifles could be done just as well with $200 air guns.
Still makes sense to me...obviously not to everyone.
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Then figured out that whatever I was doing with $900 air rifles could be done just as well with $200 air guns.
This is absurd. I mean , this takes the cake.
Yes the 200.00 air gun will fire a pellet and that is where the similarities come to an abrupt halt.
If you truly believe this then you should enter a Gamo or gauntlet in EBR next year, if for nothing else but to see how far down the list you place.
If you even make the list. Ok look, I understand some people like to tinker. I even understand that some cannot really afford to go out on a limb with a 1400.00 airgun.
But to blanket the statement with,.,,,,,,,,,"oh the 200.00 airgun is just as good as an FX Crown" is completely misleading. It's not. It never has been. it never will be no matter what you do to it, it is NOT ever going to be the same level of Airgun as a Crown, RAW, air arms, etc etc.
I posted this here some months back. I have quoted it a few times on occasions exactly like this.
And it is more than deserving , here.
I have posted this before and nowhere does it apply more, than here. And now.
I have seen this debacle time and time again on rimfire central. Go back further to shooters dot com, before they shuttered the windows 14 years ago.
To this day it can be seen on Rimfire Central dot com. Average Joe buys the bargain brand then compares ( sometimes with highly exaggerated claims) to his CZ and/or factory spec 10/22 to an Anschutz, Kimber or Cooper.
Average Joe swears his 400.00 rifle is just as good as the three top tier brands, goes on to claim he saved more money for beer and ammo by purchasing the bargain brand and advises the masses to do the same ( because that's what he did). Meanwhile, the CZ forum gets hammered with problems consisting of everything from ( incurable) horrible cold bore flier problems ( anywhere from 2 to 4 inches out in any direction) requiring warm up shots for the gun to become accurate ( rendering it utterly useless as a hunting tool) ; to bad barrels and groups that look like shotgun blasts. Along with a host of other accuracy robbing problems that are seldom, if ever seen, from the top tier brands.
Fast forward 2-4 years. Average Joe purchases his first Anschutz, Kimber ( no longer made in rimfire) or Cooper. Average Joe then does a complete about face and goes on to praise this new love he has found while proudly proclaiming to the masses ," I don't know why I didn't buy one of these from the start."
It happens all the time, to this day.
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I can afford it...just don't need it....doesn't do anything "extra" besides look good (OK...not always...some of those high dollar airguns look rather ugly).
But I'll let ya'll tell me where I'm wrong.
Small game
50 yards or under.
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I can afford it...just don't need it....doesn't do anything "extra" besides look good (OK...not always...some of those high dollar airguns look rather ugly).
But I'll let ya'll tell me where I'm wrong.
Small game
50 yards or under.
You may have missed this.
I have posted this before and nowhere does it apply more, than here. And now.
I have seen this debacle time and time again on rimfire central. Go back further to shooters dot com, before they shuttered the windows 14 years ago.
To this day it can be seen on Rimfire Central dot com. Average Joe buys the bargain brand then compares ( sometimes with highly exaggerated claims) to his CZ and/or factory spec 10/22 to an Anschutz, Kimber or Cooper.
Average Joe swears his 400.00 rifle is just as good as the three top tier brands, goes on to claim he saved more money for beer and ammo by purchasing the bargain brand and advises the masses to do the same ( because that's what he did). Meanwhile, the CZ forum gets hammered with problems consisting of everything from ( incurable) horrible cold bore flier problems ( anywhere from 2 to 4 inches out in any direction) requiring warm up shots for the gun to become accurate ( rendering it utterly useless as a hunting tool) ; to bad barrels and groups that look like shotgun blasts. Along with a host of other accuracy robbing problems that are seldom, if ever seen, from the top tier brands.
Fast forward 2-4 years. Average Joe purchases his first Anschutz, Kimber ( no longer made in rimfire) or Cooper. Average Joe then does a complete about face and goes on to praise this new love he has found while proudly proclaiming to the masses ," I don't know why I didn't buy one of these from the start."
It happens all the time, to this day.
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But I'll let ya'll tell me where I'm wrong.
Small game
50 yards or under.
Well. Ya know. You can do this with a 25 dollar sling shot. Why buy an airgun at all?
Spears. You can make a pretty nice spear at home out of a broom stick.
It may seem impossible at the moment, but if you practice with your spear you will be able to take game at 50 and under.
Who needs an airgun, spears are just as good.
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Nope..didn't miss it...just doesn't seem to apply.
Yes...when it comes to "match rifles", there really isn't a cheap substitute. Have had AA/CZ 200's (about $525) shoot within 93-95% of what a true match rifle can do....but at the level when you deserve a match rifle, that 5-7% is a "ship load".
Guess what...I can't measure the difference away from a bench, much less off-hand formal shooting.
And I can't seem (although I try to find) a real difference between shooting a $1200 rifle and a $200 rifle out in the hunting woods....and have yet to find it.
The hard core view..which may not be PC, but I still wonder about....is that some times it just massages your sense of self-wrorrth. If you are in the 1% that can really take eek-out that 5%, then I bow to the better shooter....but for most owners, it's a matter of "looky-me".
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Yeah...LeRoy Guillie (now passed).
On a bet he took a deer with a cinder block.
took him two seasons.
But with enough time, from a tree stand, (and a salt lick) he managed it.
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Ok I think the thread has run its course unless there are future posts that return to the op and on topic I will be locking it down
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Also a member of the BBHC (busted bold handle club)...looks like it's not an uncommon problem.
My solution (about 9 months of use now) was to run a 8-32 tap into the existing bolt hole and put on an old Crosman bolt handle (maybe a 2260...maybe a Disco...don't remember where it came from).
Won't cut full depth threads, but enough for a good bite....and lock tite helps.
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t50/ribbonstone/plink/de8d83d4-f60a-4730-930a-01e2bae6a460.jpg) (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/ribbonstone/media/plink/de8d83d4-f60a-4730-930a-01e2bae6a460.jpg.html)
It's a little too thick. Just a little hand polishing of the shank and it locks down with no slack. Figured the "no slack" part was a "plus" as the orginals often have a little slack (we push them forward loading...if there is slack, it would give them a running start at smacking into the locking recess).
I drilled out the old stud on mine, retapped to 8-32 like you did, put new 8-32 threads on the old handle and it's still working. I did think about using the Crosman handle but like you said the threads weren't long enough. I admit the handle is kinda stubby but it still works good enough for me, eventually I might try making a new handle.
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Have yet to bust the bolts on any of my SPA guns that use this same breech and bolt setup. I've noticed them become loose and I just developed a habit of constantly checking them. I've put Teflon tape on each and I only use the bolt knob to open the breech. I use my thumb on the back of the bolt to close them. If you have any forward and backward play in the bolt when it's in the closed position, I recommend this be addressed. The bolt "slapping" when the gun is fired is probably not a good condition.
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I received my free replacement bolt and handle from SPA. It does not look like they have improved upon the original, so I suspect it's just a matter of time before it breaks again and I'll be seeking a more permanent solution.
Just curious, is the bolt handle from the CP1 the same diameter and tread size? I may put that bolt handle on my Varmint since it's shorter, maybe it will hold up better.
Also, I was going to try and cut threads into the bolt handle that broke off my Varmint, and then put it on my CP1 since it would be shorter, but I can't seem to find anything that will hold it secure enough to cut the threads. Is the bolt handle hardened that much that trying to thread it further is out of the question? Thanks...
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I received my free replacement bolt and handle from SPA. It does not look like they have improved upon the original, so I suspect it's just a matter of time before it breaks again and I'll be seeking a more permanent solution.
Just curious, is the bolt handle from the CP1 the same diameter and tread size? I may put that bolt handle on my Varmint since it's shorter, maybe it will hold up better.
Also, I was going to try and cut threads into the bolt handle that broke off my Varmint, and then put it on my CP1 since it would be shorter, but I can't seem to find anything that will hold it secure enough to cut the threads. Is the bolt handle hardened that much that trying to thread it further is out of the question? Thanks...
Use brass jaws in your vice to hold it without marking it. You can try some scrap oak if you do not have brass or copper for the vice.
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Thanks Ed!
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My pr900w varmint's handle broke last evening, developed an air leak as well. Thanks for all the info here, I will try some fixes. I may have to open up the gun to address the leak.j
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My retap/Crosman bolt handle is still holding up. rifle hasn't taken a dump or leak on me, still shoots to the speed and energy it was set for, and still plays around with MOA out to about 40yards (for 4 5-shot group averages).
As to the cheap vs expensive:
May tweak you, but I still find it true. The cheapies do everything I do just as well for me.
I can get a fraction of an inch difference in average group size at short range (like .19" vs .16" @ 25yards for +5 5-shot groups...not some single "put it in your wallet to walk around with group" ) with the high priced airguns. So yeak, 3/100ths of an inch is better... would make a difference shooting for numeric score....but not $1000 better for anything else.
Brought firearms into this...really shouldn't, as in many ways they are simpler than airguns as the whole ammo/power system is a separate issue (but alike in that crappy ammo shoots like crappy pellets).
Have had Kinbers (really miss the Cascade), and being an older generation, Win 52's and 75's, alog with Rem. 540X's (miss the 540X too)....and one Anchults at the end (end being 2005 when the house and all in it was washed away).
This I discovered something with .22's using good ammo. Good crisp trigger, fast lock time, good barrel, right chamber...and the cheap guns can shoot, and end up costing a whole lot less even with the custom work.
So yep...I baited some of the guys are the range, never did tell them what I was doing, but it's the concept of the "sleeper". I'd show up with a massaged, rebarreled, rechambered, kind of worn and rusty on the outside .22 (like an old beat to poop Rem. 514). I'd even take out the Eley ammo (or back then often Federal F1 ammo) and put it in those big cardbord "milk boxes" of crappy .22LR ammo. Optional (for scopes with turret caps) swap out the big name turret caps for ones that have "Gamo" printed on them....but I ususally used an old external adjusting Lyman or Unertle (and not their biggest expensive version). After all, all the "up to date" shooters just KNOW those scopes can't shoot.
Let them draw their own conclusions...and none of them seemed to want to talk to me at the end of the day.
I don't take airguns to an official range much (if I'm making that trip, am going to shoot-big), but have doen the same thing on occasion. Dumpe the JSB's into an empty Gamo tin, make sure you can't tell any of the mods from the outside, if rebarreled make it a barrel that looks like the original, make sure it has a littlw ear (rust is a bonus for this), and keep your mouth shut.
Point being that judging a book by it's cover (or an gun by it's evident cost) can make you leave the range looking for hey..waht the devil is wrong with my expensive rifle.
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What tool do you use to tighten the pressure gauge?
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Hey Ribby I'll be at the fun shoot ;) Bring it I'll have my Gamo Whisper Fusion to the fun shoot ;D ;D ;D
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I will never understand why people will buy cheap junk.
Maximus and Disco handles break. But they put built in America.
It's thin metal that people put stress on. What you expect?
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Lets put it this way. The two co2 versions using the same revceiver / bolt system havn';t broken...and don't have near the reputation of breaking. Same bolt. But it's being yanked on a lot less (as the cocking effort is a lot less) and being pushed back against it's stop a lot less hard (as the push-back pressure is a lot less).
So I'm thinking that whatever the thickness/hardness of the issue bolt, it's "just enough" for the co2 versions, but not quite enough for the PCP versions.
As for making any shoot in the near future...I still work, and things are a bit hectic (we're down 3 staff members out of 8 and having a hard time finding replacements), so stringing together even 2 days off in a row is a major undertaking. Had to go to my boss NOW to be sure she understands that come *(&^ or high water, I'm going to be off the first half of NOVEMBER.
So baring getting fired, quitting, death, or a busted hip, doubt I'll find too many trips between here and there.
Did manage to get this whole weekend extra-shift/call free, but have a .22RF relining project I've been itching to do. But I will be thinking about that process in terms of airguns as well....as it occurs to me that relining a barrel is pretty much the same end product as sleaving one.
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I always push in on the back of the bolt and never on the knob.