GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Crosman Airguns => Topic started by: jim p on January 11, 2017, 09:45:55 PM
-
I am getting ready to polish the trigger and I remembered seeing a video about adding a spent 22 lr casing to the trigger spring. Could someone explain exactly where to put the casing and explain what the casing adds to the smoothness of the trigger.
I don't really want to polish the hammer but I will if you guys think that it is needed.
My allen wrench is scheduled for delivery tomorrow. If it is the correct size, the polishing will start.
-
Jim, the .050" is for the breech screw. The three screws on the side plate use a 1/16" Allen. Make sure it is seated all the way to the bottom and go slow.
-
the casing goes over the nub that the trigger spring sits on. then slide the spring over the casing. the casing acts as a spring guide , thus keeping the spring from bulgging out to the side. if you want a really good trigger just get a p-rod trigger group and replace the one you currently have. you can make the one you have passable with work and adding a 2-stage super sear. but for the same price you could get the p-rod trigger group.
have fun
peace
kj
-
the casing goes over the nub that the trigger spring sits on. then slide the spring over the casing.
Man, it's been a while so I may have to check but I don't think the spring fits over the 22 shells rim.
Seems to me I put the spring on the post and slid the .22 shell in the top of the spring so the "primer" of the shell is against the seer.
Polished all contact surfaces.
-
Scott's right. the .22 casing acts like a spring guide. it keeps the spring from rocking on the end of the sear, and getting kinked up. the brass also slides easier against the sear, helping to smooth out the feel of the trigger.
-
Thanks, everyone.
I will use a 1/16" allen. I ordered a .050" so it will just be used for the breech screw which I may never need to remove again. :)
Have a great day.
-
Hi There :D
Be sure to polish the top of the 22 shell, every little bit helps.
Also polish all the contact points on the trigger assembly, even the sides where the pivot points are, BUT try not to change the shape of the parts
Another thing is to shim the side play at the pivot points, nylon or plastic washers are great, be sure that thing still move freely with little play side to side.I filed the frame at the pivot points so the shims would fit. I am not sure how much polishing the hammer will do but the the easier and smoother things move the better.
Another thing remove the burrs from the slots in the air tube, specially the pump end burrs there will eat the piston seal you may not be able to see them but don't put your finger in there to check.
I have no idea how I know that ;D I know it sounds like a lot of work, but it will give you something to do on a cold rainy evening and a very sweet shooter and on top of that you can say I did this! :D Oppppps almost forgot light grease on the trigger contact points and pivots and air gun oil on the piston and hammer.
Hope this helps good shooting!
Ed 8) R-O-C-E-D Retired Old Cranky Extremely Dangerous! ;D ;D
-
I am getting ready to polish the trigger and I remembered seeing a video about adding a spent 22 lr casing to the trigger spring.
I don't really want to polish the hammer but I will if you guys think that it is needed.
Speaking of video's ...and what to polish...
This video helped me out a lot, it is a 2240 but that has the same trigger group as your 13XX
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sY4Am1odKd8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sY4Am1odKd8)
-
Scott :D
Good on you for the video the only thing I would add is to put a dab off grease on the safety ball and spring that way they don't jump out and go walk about.
Oh and if you shorten the stock sear spring (1&1/2 turns) and put 22 shell on top it makes it just a tad smoother.
I know this seems like a lot, but all it costs is a little time and elbow grease, and you end up with a gun that is much more fun to shoot and it will be more accurate as well. If you see or come up with a trick of your own please share.
Ed 8)
-
the only thing I would add is to put a dab off grease on the safety ball and spring that way they don't jump out and go walk about.
Ed 8)
The little bugger does have a mind of it's own doesn't it!
The video shows to invert the pieces before removal. That is one of the things I like so well.
-
Oh, another thing... squeeze that spring between your fingers for a bit to fully compress it and that eases the tension.
I took the grip off mine to show you what I was trying to say but you can't see much... hope this helps.
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u670/Hoosierb17/Hobbies/IMG_20170112_1901176962_zps05rf9ek4.jpg)
-
I got the trigger polished and it is very smooth. It is still more trigger pull than I want but if I compress the spring anymore the hammer will not cock. I took a live 22lr and pulled the bullet. I didn't want a dent in the top of the casing. I put a drop of oil in the casing to kill the primer.
The safety spring launched into the unknown. It took me 3 hours to make a replacement spring. I now have a very expensive (time wise) safety spring.
Thanks for all the help.
-
the casing goes over the nub that the trigger spring sits on. then slide the spring over the casing.
Man, it's been a while so I may have to check but I don't think the spring fits over the 22 shells rim.
Seems to me I put the spring on the post and slid the .22 shell in the top of the spring so the "primer" of the shell is against the seer.
Polished all contact surfaces.
ok, sounds reasonable. been 600 years since i did this, once they came out with the p-rod trigger that's all i used on pistols.
peace
kj
-
I did a little shooting today and the trigger worked great except for the heavy trigger pull. I am able to counter the heavy trigger pull by pulling the stock into my shoulder tightly.
I took a look at the p- rod trigger and it looks like it has a good bit of adjustment. It looked like the trigger guard has to be drilled for a screw. I don't like makings mods that can't be reversed if wanted.
-
no drilling of the trigger guard. however for the 13xx sometimes the slot in the tube has to be slightly elongated an filed down a touch if there's not room for the sear to clear. not a visable mod and it won't affect things if you chose to go back to original parts. a different hammer is needed , or you can just fill the waist of your hammer with jb weld. a few different approaches to the hammer issue. but yes the p-rod trigger group is very adjustable and probably the best possible trigger for this and the 22xx platforms.
have fun
kj
-
The safety spring launched into the unknown. It took me 3 hours to make a replacement spring. I now have a very expensive (time wise) safety spring.
the spring from a bic lighter is just the right diameter. you just need to cut it to length.
-
The tiny ball is usually the pain to find!
You did find that... right?
-
That heavy pull is created by too much sear engagement with the hammer. You can reduce it, but use caution as it is extremely easy to go too far and make an unsafe pistol.
Start with some 200 grit sandpaper and make about 2-3 passes across the top of the sear, keeping the factory angle. Put sear back in and test. Repeat this process numerous times until you achieve desired pull. Once desired weight is reached, bump up to 600 grit and just polish the top and rear of the sear. Don't remove any more material! Then step to OO steel wool for final polishing. The rear of the sear where it engages the hammer is important to polish as this engagement point is the "feel"of the trigger. From the factory that part is stamped, so the rear edge is rough and gritty where it makes contact on the hammer face. Smooth it out and you get a smooth trigger. It may still be heavy, but it will feel much better.
From my experience, ~3lbs is about as good as you can get a non-Prod 22xx trigger without it becoming unsafe. They will bump fire below that weight. You'll also need to change out the sear spring with something that provides positive "up" pressure on the rear of the sear, but is less stiff than the factory spring. I usually head to my local farm supply store and just scoop 10-15 springs of varying sizes to play with. I use them up on all sorts of stuff eventually and a handful only costs a few dollars. Lastly, I've found that the white delrin guides work better than brass for spring guides. You can find them in the fastener section of any hardware store. Drop on on the top of the spring and its natural lubricity makes the engagement on the sear smooth and doubles to keep the spring in place and prevent bulging. Good luck, be safe!
-
oh forgot to mention, you can replace the safety ball with the little balls from a key chain or small necklace. I found one in my junk drawer and when they shoot out, I don't even bother to look any more. I just clip a new one off and BINGO drop it in place. Free safety balls. As for the spring, I do keep track of those because they're hard to come by. However, some ball point pin springs are small enough to work.
-
oh forgot to mention, you can replace the safety ball with the little balls from a key chain or small necklace.
As all that's been reported happened at least once to me, I found back the spring, with a big luck and the help from a magnet, but the safety ball must be in orbit close to jim p's one...
Concerning that ball, I couldn't find anything small enough at home, so I tried a very tiny and spherical lead fishing sinker, the one river fishers use. I gently pressed it between my thumb and my index so to make the slot those things show disappear, and, well it worked. Now it's been 2 weeks since I did that and it's still OK.
Just an info..
-
I need to take a scale and see how much trigger pull is needed to fire the pistol. I a guessing that it is around 3 pounds. The sear spring is so light that I have to sometimes cock the pistol twice to get the sear to engage. I have bumped the gun trying to get it to fire and it seems safe for now. Some times the trigger pull seems lighter than others. There is no longer any gritty feel when pulling the trigger. The trigger is very smooth and just seems to break and not slide along before firing.
I am shooting the pistol from a rest and using a 9x scope. I did some dry firing and watched the movement of the x when fired. When shooting off a soft pillow I noticed that the x always moved when the trigger broke. I started experimenting and found that when fired off my knee the x didn't move. I found that much tighter groups could be attained by firing off my knee. It is tough to keep the x from moving when the trigger pull is around 3 to 4 lbs.
-
put the safety on, before you cock the gun. it helps keep the trigger from putting any pressure on the sear. I run extremely light trigger springs, along with shaved down sears, and I never have a problem with the sear not wanting to engage, when cocked.
also, you might want to try pulling the trigger with the first joint of your index finger, instead of the pad. I found out, quite by accident, that it's very comfortable to shoot those skinny triggers that way, versus using the traditional method.
-
Thanks for the tips. I will try using the safety when cocking. I also like using the joint of the finger. It seems that I get more leverage using the joint and things line up better with the grip when using the first joint. This may be caused by the handle being small for kids to grip.