GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Hatsan Airguns => Topic started by: flo-22 on December 25, 2016, 10:33:49 PM
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I'm planning to purchase one of these rifles in .22 caliber and set up a little 15-20 yard range in my backyard, which is separated from neighbors on 3 sides by a rather thin (1/2") picketed fencing. I estimate the nearby houses are between 50-75ft away from the shooting area.
Hopefully you guys don't mind a couple questions:
1- What can I expect for noise level at these (house) distances? If my neighbors are used to typical "kids playing out back" noise levels, will this rifle be significantly worse?
2- I am planning to get a pellet trap and probably a few different types of targets. As a backstop, I was planning to use plywood to eliminate the possibility of penetration into neighboring yards. Does this sound like a reasonable solution? Should I use multiple layers of plywood?
Thanks!
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At 20 yrds you better have a good back stop.
That 95 will punch through a single sheet of 3/4 inch plywood.
And the more you hit the same spot? The more it will want to go through.
You could add carpet scraps to absorb some energy but you'll need to adjust that from time to time also.
That also helps stop the impact sound.
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Questions are what the forum is for, ask all you want or need to, someone or 3 or 4 can answer...lol
If you're getting the QE version, it should be fairly quiet at least til like Jeff said, your pellets hit that backstop. Just me but use Jeff's carpet idea and 3 sheets of 3/4 with the carpet layered between the boards. The .22 should fit the bill for both your target shooting and pests if need be...any other questions (you'll have more...lol) don't hesitate to ask :)
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Welcome, I am a bit if a new person here myself. That is the rifle I am looking to buy next. But I have a rifle that shoots about those speeds in 22. The sound that thing will make when your pellet hits a steel or wood pellet trap will be a pretty loud. I cant speak to the sound of the rifle as I dont own one. I would suggest building a pellet trap that uses the rubber mulch. Maybe some others will chime in...
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Yes. Do a good trap to muffle the impact.
No matter how you do it that will be the key to staying quite!
I only have one Gun that is louder then the actual pellet impact.
Most times the neighbors only know I'm shooting when the pellet hits the targets out back.
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I did the same type of thing this guy did. Except i put bags of ruber mulch at the rear of the box.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DHbfz3P7GcA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DHbfz3P7GcA)
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Thanks for the advice, folks! After watching the video and finding a blog about the "world's best pellet trap", I think I have a pretty good plan for a target system that will be both safe and quiet, as well as being fairly easy to put together and not too expensive:
- 3 layers of 3/4" plywood (4' x 4') with carpet between them to catch any fliers (huge, I know, but overkill is probably best from a safety perspective I think).
- Large Rubbermaid storage tote (~16" depth) lined with duct seal and tightly filled with rubber mulch
Sound good? Anything I should watch out for?
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Thanks for the advice, folks! After watching the video and finding a blog about the "world's best pellet trap", I think I have a pretty good plan for a target system that will be both safe and quiet, as well as being fairly easy to put together and not too expensive:
- 3 layers of 3/4" plywood (4' x 4') with carpet between them to catch any fliers (huge, I know, but overkill is probably best from a safety perspective I think).
- Large Rubbermaid storage tote (~16" depth) lined with duct seal and tightly filled with rubber mulch
Sound good? Anything I should watch out for?
That is wayyyyy too much, you only need a box about 40cm thick (Sorry I use metric ) and pack it with rubber mulch in order to stop a FIREARM bullet. You can keep the backstop if you want to, better safe than sorry on that. But again, I am fairly new to this myself, so this is just my humble opinion
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If you want to save some $, pick up a couple hay bales.
They'll stop the pellet and prevent the backstop smack.
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Hay bails, carpet backed plywood, rubber mulch filled boxes(really jammed it there), are all good back stops. Bigger is better!
I use horse stall rubber flooring(now also used as weight room flooring) as my final pellet stopper-after going through about 20 layers of cardboard. This is also backed by a 3/8 inch thin aluminium plate. A back stop for a PCP needs to be much more robust.
Just think of a way to pick up spent lead. After a few years, you will be surprised how much lead there is laying around.
Problem may be muzzle report! I do not have the QE version, just the normal 95 Vortex, .22.
At 75 feet away, my neighbors would know I am shooting. Would your neighbors mind? Is it legal in your area? How often do people run their lawn mowers, leaf blowers, snow blowers in your neighbourhood??????
Can your shooting position be inside, out an open window or door? When I shoot, dogs up to 1/2 mile away notice, and do not like it!
Can you set up an indoor range? As a worst case scenario, PCP are much quieter than springers(or at least can be).
Good luck and let us know....
-Y
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I have both versions...my 95 has the standard muzzle break and my 87 has the QE moderator and the 95 is only a touch louder firing than the 87. Nearest neighbors are maybe 35 feet to either side and unless they see me walk out with either rifle, don't know I'm shooting until they hear pellets hitting my backstop but mine is just 2 half inch pieces of treated plywood screwed together.
Neither rifle is one bit loud and more than likely, a large part of the sound you'll hear is because your ear is right next to the action so it will sound louder than it actually is.
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One more thing about the rubber mulch. I left mine in the bags it came in and used plastic chicken wire and a stapler to hold it in place at the back of my box (trap). The carpet slows the pellet some and keeps anything from bouncing back out. I have fired 21gr pellets into it from my NP2 and it has stopped it.
Now to the one more thing: Someone talked about this the other day. When it comes time to clean things, you fill a carbage can with water (clean one) pore the use ruber mulch from your trap in and the rubber floats the lead sinks. Scoop the rubber mulch back into bags, put it back into place in your trap. Drain the water recover your lead.
Makes for very easy maintaine and clean up.
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That is wayyyyy too much
That's like saying "I'll never shoot my chrony!"
Nothing is way to much starting out.
Better to be safe then sorry. I do believe most of us try to stress safety above all else.
I am blessed with a great range. If things were different for me?
I'd over build a trap just for the piece of mind.
One pellet going where it should not will change your life.
I'm not willing to risk that myself.
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I have the "Berlin Wall" in my back yard. It is a sand pile, 6ft high x 70ft long x 10ft deep. The sand is mixed with logs and oak leaf litter and is backed up by a 30ft deep brush pile and is covered by a 3ft layer of leaves & tree branches. ( and now snow) Best Regards - Tom P.S. More is always better! ( safer )
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I have the "Berlin Wall" in my back yard. It is a sand pile, 6ft high x 70ft long x 10ft deep. The sand is mixed with logs and oak leaf litter and is backed up by a 30ft deep brush pile and is covered by a 3ft layer of leaves & tree branches. ( and now snow) Best Regards - Tom P.S. More is always better! ( safer )
OK.
THAT might just be way to much.
;D
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I have the "Berlin Wall" in my back yard. It is a sand pile, 6ft high x 70ft long x 10ft deep. The sand is mixed with logs and oak leaf litter and is backed up by a 30ft deep brush pile and is covered by a 3ft layer of leaves & tree branches. ( and now snow) Best Regards - Tom P.S. More is always better! ( safer )
OK.
THAT might just be way to much.
;D
Yes I Know-- but it is all Free material that is readily available and was already in the area. I live on a glacial sand deposit and the forest out back was full of dead fall. All I did was drag and level the 1 1/2 acre back yard with a 4x4 tractor, push up the excess sand with the tractor's front bucket and pick up and arrange things. I also shoot power burners into this berm. It stops my son's 378 Way mag. I get downed branches and lots of leaves every year. I put my Fall clean up on and behind the berm and out of sight. It serves many purposes and tends to grow larger each year. Parts of it, in back, are also my composting area. I have shrubs and plants in it as a wild life food planting and landscaping feature. Best Regards - Tom
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Here's what I did. Works great.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5D4g57ObUWc# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5D4g57ObUWc#)
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I keep it simple and use a piece of pine tree stump-about 1 foot thick and 2 feet in diameter- pellets will never penetrate more than an inch and quiet-in parts where a lot of pellets are impacting they seem to stick together and become part of the stump-
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I find rubber mulch to be the best. I have experimented with different thicknesses using a cardboard box to hold the mulch. I used various msp and spring guns. I have gone as thin as a 3" deep box. I have never had a pellet pass thru the back side. That being said, I still prefer a 4"-6" layer to be safe.
I would suggest using the mulch directly behind your targets to catch the pellets and keep the sound down. I also suggest using a larger backstop behind the pellet trap for when you miss the trap. "You Will Miss The Trap" sooner or later. For that larger area I would use the wood/carpet.
Be safe and have fun.
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Thanks for all the input folks! Sounds like I'm on the right track, and there's no such thing as "overkill" when it comes to safety. Can't put the round (err...pellet) back in the chamber, after all.
On another topic that is related to creating a backyard range for this rifle, how would you gauge the effectiveness of this type of weapon for improving overall rifle technique? My wife and I are novice shooters with our powderburners, and I am hoping that time with the pellet rifle can help us improve on some fundamentals, in addition to being a convenient source of fun and friendly competition. I have read up on the artillery hold for piston-based airguns, and I understand that this part will be quite a bit different, but surely there can be some significant gains to be made in other areas?
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Thanks for all the input folks! Sounds like I'm on the right track, and there's no such thing as "overkill" when it comes to safety. Can't put the round (err...pellet) back in the chamber, after all.
On another topic that is related to creating a backyard range for this rifle, how would you gauge the effectiveness of this type of weapon for improving overall rifle technique? My wife and I are novice shooters with our powderburners, and I am hoping that time with the pellet rifle can help us improve on some fundamentals, in addition to being a convenient source of fun and friendly competition. I have read up on the artillery hold for piston-based airguns, and I understand that this part will be quite a bit different, but surely there can be some significant gains to be made in other areas?
Sight picture, breathing, trigger control will all be helped by shooting an air gun.
-Y
ps at $.03-.05 per pellet, air guns are much cheaper to practice with than PB's. Shooting my buddies AR costs about $1.00 per round.
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If you can get really accurate with a springer, you can shoot anything.
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Thanks folks, sounds like I'm on the right track then :D
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Chris, if you learn to shoot a springer well, you'll be able to shoot anything well.
I know it has helped my skill level.
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Thanks for the reassurance. I was hoping that was the case but wanted to get some community thoughts as well.
So, I went to Lowe's to do some price checking, and my proposed solution isn't cheap! Roughly $130 for the 27gal plastic tote, 5 bags rubber mulch, 5lb duct seal, 1 sheet of 3/4" pressure treated plywood (cut in half), and a 6'x8' indoor/outdoor carpet to cover the plywood sections, along with the required carpet adhesive and wood screws to put the backstop together. Safety is paramount of course but dang! Any tips on how I could safely reduce costs? One thought is to get a smaller tote, which would require less rubber mulch. Any other ideas?
Thanks!
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Thanks for the reassurance. I was hoping that was the case but wanted to get some community thoughts as well.
So, I went to Lowe's to do some price checking, and my proposed solution isn't cheap! Roughly $130 for the 27gal plastic tote, 5 bags rubber mulch, 5lb duct seal, 1 sheet of 3/4" pressure treated plywood (cut in half), and a 6'x8' indoor/outdoor carpet to cover the plywood sections, along with the required carpet adhesive and wood screws to put the backstop together. Safety is paramount of course but dang! Any tips on how I could safely reduce costs? One thought is to get a smaller tote, which would require less rubber mulch. Any other ideas?
Thanks!
Check out the Price Tag of the Hay Bail suggestion. Wouldn't hurt to find out. Best Regards - Tom
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Try driving around on garbage collection day and see if anyone got new carpeting and has the old stuff rolled up and out at the curb or check with local carpet places. They have to do something with the old carpet they remove before they install new and they may have a bunch in a dumpster they'll let you have for nothing.
There are cheaper places than a big name place like Lowe's you should be able to pick up a decent sized plastic tote. Check the sales flyers in your newspaper or hit places like Walmart or a Big Lots or even Dollar General or Family Dollar and see what they have.
Got old clothes, rags or towels?? Stuff them in the bottom of that tote, then dump in say 2 bags or maybe 3 instead of 5 of rubber mulch and you should still be very safe and a few dollars ahead.
Pressure treated stuff always costs more, consider going to just standard 1/2" with carpet in between and if you can find enough from a carpet place or stuff you find curbside, you can cover the outside of one or both sides and end up with 2 to 3 layers of carpet plus your wood for a backstop behind your tote.
The hale bales? Try a local feed store if you have one or even area farmers that might sell you a few fairly cheap to back up the above if you wanna add those to the mix.
Hope some of the above helps :)
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Try driving around on garbage collection day and see if anyone got new carpeting and has the old stuff rolled up and out at the curb or check with local carpet places. They have to do something with the old carpet they remove before they install new and they may have a bunch in a dumpster they'll let you have for nothing.
There are cheaper places than a big name place like Lowe's you should be able to pick up a decent sized plastic tote. Check the sales flyers in your newspaper or hit places like Walmart or a Big Lots or even Dollar General or Family Dollar and see what they have.
Got old clothes, rags or towels?? Stuff them in the bottom of that tote, then dump in say 2 bags or maybe 3 instead of 5 of rubber mulch and you should still be very safe and a few dollars ahead.
Pressure treated stuff always costs more, consider going to just standard 1/2" with carpet in between and if you can find enough from a carpet place or stuff you find curbside, you can cover the outside of one or both sides and end up with 2 to 3 layers of carpet plus your wood for a backstop behind your tote.
The hale bales? Try a local feed store if you have one or even area farmers that might sell you a few fairly cheap to back up the above if you wanna add those to the mix.
Hope some of the above helps :)
Now There You Go....if it is FREE! then it's for me. Leave it to Ole scp52 Steve to come up with the REALLY GOOD IDEA ! My Best Regards to All - Tom
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Think like a scrounge, go to junk & 2nd hand stores, estate sales. My trap is big and I only have two bags of rubber mulch in mine. (It is 30x30") The mulch is the only thing I paid for in it. The carpet is my last years shower mat. I just went to this estate sale and got a big metal box that was made to hold some sort of artillery fuses. I am thinking of making a indoor trap with it.
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Think like a scrounge, go to junk & 2nd hand stores, estate sales. My trap is big and I only have two bags of rubber mulch in mine. (It is 30x30") The mulch is the only thing I paid for in it. The carpet is my last years shower mat. I just went to this estate sale and got a big metal box that was made to hold some sort of artillery fuses. I am thinking of making a indoor trap with it.
Say !...This is a real Good Idea Too ! Best Regards - Tom
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So, I went to Lowe's to do some price checking, and my proposed solution isn't cheap! Roughly $130 for the 27gal plastic tote, 5 bags rubber mulch, 5lb duct seal, 1 sheet of 3/4" pressure treated plywood (cut in half), and a 6'x8' indoor/outdoor carpet to cover the plywood sections, along with the required carpet adhesive and wood screws to put the backstop together. Safety is paramount of course but dang! Any tips on how I could safely reduce costs? One thought is to get a smaller tote, which would require less rubber mulch. Any other ideas?
Thanks!
I cut up some old OSB sheathing into a box 14" x 14" by 18" deep. I put one bag of rubber mulch in the back, then some 1/4" hardware cloth (wire mesh with 1/4" squares), then another bag of the mulch, then the final layer of wire cloth. I've put around an goodly amount of BBs and pellets into it, maybe 25K pellets, plus 10K BBs. It has a spring loaded clip at the top to hold target paper (or cardboard or legal pad sheets), and my most-common "bullseye" is a tiny square of electrical tape. I'm about as cheap an SOB as you can get. I'm into the trap for about $12- the cost of 2 bags of rubber mulch.
OSB ain't the longest-lasting material out there, but if you don't paint it lasts a long time. Another option is a cover like a lean-to over it. Sure, you can always go crazy with something super-fancy, but if you're sighting the guns in, you're close, and once you open up typical backyard range you know about where they'll hit, at least within half a foot I'd think. So anything much bigger than a foot across is wasting material.
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You don't need to glue the carpet so that would save a chunk of change.
Also, check with some carpet installers.
They would be more then happy to give you scraps or old carpet they ripped out.
I'll bet We tossed several hundred yards of scrap leftovers at a resort we were working at in SC.
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I don't know the sound level of your gun, but I shoot my springers and co2 guns into a old milk crate lined with electricians duct seal. Many thousands of shots later its still quiet and convenient. I usually bring it indoors when I'm done shooting, but sometimes I forget, and its still in great shape and quiet!! Nice thing about it I can bring it into the garage and shoot, and my wife in the kitchen about 10 feet away cannot hear it. That helps here during these snowey winters her in Vermont
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Straw bale. Light weight, quiet. 6 bucks and done. Just don't shoot the strings 😉
I just put 150 rnds thru my new hatsan 95QE today-17cal and really like it. Settling down pretty good now. I am shooting out of a window in the shop out to 20 yards so far. Dusted a collared dove at 45 yards to boot
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I built my own enclosed trap out of 3/4" plywood with a 3/16" steel plate angled at 30 degrees in the back of it. Use a piece of 1" mattress foam in the bottom to stop the pellets from bouncing. I shoot a .177 but my son shoots his TX200 .22 into it. Works great. Open it up about once a month to clean it out. I melt the lead into small ingots. It is surprising how much lead I have saved. Built a 1" pine backstop. As far as noise goes it depends on your neighbors. Can't tell much difference between the .177 and .22.
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Straw bale. Light weight, quiet. 6 bucks and done. Just don't shoot the strings 😉
I just put 150 rnds thru my new hatsan 95QE today-17cal and really like it. Settling down pretty good now. I am shooting out of a window in the shop out to 20 yards so far. Dusted a collared dove at 45 yards to boot
Just over lap the seams of the bales..
Dove, head shot or heart and lungs?
-Y
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No headshots yet