GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Diana Airguns => Topic started by: kbobb on April 20, 2011, 11:33:02 AM
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Hi all,
have a new Diana 34 on the way (hopefully today) and was looking at the RWS maintenence videos on youtube. These are for the 100 and 1000 shot intervals.
If you have seen them is this a good maintenece schedule to stick to? Anything they missed or any better ideas?
Also anything to do before shooting for the first time re: lubes bore cleaning etc? or just take it out and shoot it?
Thanks a lot!
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you might want to run some patchs with some breakfree on them thru the bore to see what it looks like before you shoot it to make sure its clean, but other than that unless you want to tune it just shoot it! RWS, Diana rifles are dry as a bone with very minimal lube if any at all so it maybe a good idea to lube tune the gun before you do alot of shooting with it JMO, I usually shoot a new gun only to check accuracy and mechanical function and if all is well I tear it down and either lube it correctly or do a full tune on it so it'll last as long as possible before I have to tear it down again, just my 2ct.
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I bought an RWS34 .22 (my first) and after reading how dry they come, I bought an RWS lube kit and used it as directed. It didn't seem to make much difference in how it felt,shot or grouped. After reading about working some moly lube around the piston, I used a zip tie with the stock off and tried that. That didn't feel a whole lot different either but what I did notice was the pellets it did and didn't like changed around. I have since bought a JM spring, guide and lubes to be installed when a good compressor gets built (this weekend if I can wait that long). Enjoy!
Rick
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The RWS video is not bad. Just do some basic lubrication EXTERNALLY, and oil the gun/metal (outside) surfaces regularly, but do NOT put any oils or RWS lubes inside the gun. This mean nothing down the air-transfer port which leads to the compression chamber and your piston seal. That does really nothing and may even hurt the gun in the long run. To properly lube the gun internally you have to take it apart and apply Moly and tar at the appropriate places, or have a tuner do it. Just clean the bore like others said and keep on shooting, while taking care of oil from your hands, ie: keeping the external metal surfaces clean and oiled (Beeman oil is good) after each use.
Also do not store your gun in a damp room (basement, etc.) or anywhere with high humidity, or it will start rusting after a while.
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I think there is a link or two missing here?
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e20/RedFeather2/missing_link.jpg)
(If you look closely, that's a B-1 he's carrying. :-) )
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OK Thanks
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Clean the bore really good and shoot the pi$$ out of it. If you want to tune it and really smooth it out put a vortek kit in it. Get the one with the seal when you do, while you have the gun apart you may as well replace the seal. But thats all down te road. Just clean the barrel and shot like crazy. Have fun!
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The RWS video is not bad. Just do some basic lubrication EXTERNALLY, and oil the gun/metal (outside) surfaces regularly, but do NOT put any oils or RWS lubes inside the gun. This mean nothing down the air-transfer port which leads to the compression chamber and your piston seal. That does really nothing and may even hurt the gun in the long run. To properly lube the gun internally you have to take it apart and apply Moly and tar at the appropriate places, or have a tuner do it. Just clean the bore like others said and keep on shooting, while taking care of oil from your hands, ie: keeping the external metal surfaces clean and oiled (Beeman oil is good) after each use.
Also do not store your gun in a damp room (basement, etc.) or anywhere with high humidity, or it will start rusting after a while.
I watched the video and have some RWS lubes on the way.Why is it not a good idea to put a couple drops in the air chamber area,will it damage the seal?
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That's what I 've been told by a couple of tuners and people that have been tuning their guns for a long time.
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One or two small drops of CHAMBER LUBE through the transfer port probably won't do anything. You put the drops in, then work the piston back and forth a couple of times without cocking all the way. Let it sit for a while to allow any carriers to evaporate. I know one fellow who babies his Diana's and he swears by this every thousand shots or so. The spring oil I would skip.