GTA
Target Shooting Matches, Discussion & Events => Target Shooting Discussion Gate => Topic started by: Hoosier Daddy on October 10, 2016, 03:55:57 PM
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I am in process of building my indoor pellet trap for the winter months and can either angle the back with a steel plate liner, or mahe a flat back with Duct Seal. I like the idea of Duct Seal due to it being quite on impact. Means I can shoot in the early mornings while Hoosier Momma is still snoozin.
All that said, I see Duct Seal is sold by the pound (lbs) bars. well, I have no idea what size that would be, but assume it is pretty dense. My pellet stop is designed to hold a 9" x 12" standard clipboard so the back is that size. How much Duct seal will I need to cover that square and at what thickness?
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For guns shooting up to 12fpe at distances of 10 or more yards, I have found the thickness of the one pound bars to be plenty.
Above 12fpe, I go with two bars stacked on top of each other.
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For guns shooting up to 12fpe at distances of 10 or more yards, I have found the thickness of the one pound bars to be plenty.
Above 12fpe, I go with two bars stacked on top of each other.
2 bars stacked the entire width? In other words what thickness to cover my exterior dimensions?
And how does one clean the pellets out ? Especially in a (hopefully) concentrated area?
Thinking an angled back with a substrate in the floor would be easier...
But I am concerned about bounce back ricochets.
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1 bar thickness will stop a 115 grain bullet shot at 770 fps at 10 yards approx 150 foot pounds of energy :)
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Here is my solution to a quiet target, I use a large cardboard box(15Wx12Hx8d) filled with old clothes. I have a 2x12 cut to width placed in the box and the clothes(folded)placed on top and seal up with packing tape. It will stop a 207fpe .45 slug at 50yds. The slugs rarely make it to the lumber. When full just shake the clothes out and restuff the clothes back in. This is how I recycle my lead for casting. It's portable as well(weighs 15lbs) No ricochets or anything bouncing back out. I use plaskolite to replace the face of the target.
http://www.lowes.com/pd/PLASKOLITE-2-5-ft-x-3-ft-x-3-9878-mil-White-Corrugated-Plastic-Sheet/3381288 (http://www.lowes.com/pd/PLASKOLITE-2-5-ft-x-3-ft-x-3-9878-mil-White-Corrugated-Plastic-Sheet/3381288)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee226/scooterlizard/84gr%2030yds%2050yds.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/user/scooterlizard/media/84gr%2030yds%2050yds.jpg.html)
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For guns shooting up to 12fpe at distances of 10 or more yards, I have found the thickness of the one pound bars to be plenty.
Above 12fpe, I go with two bars stacked on top of each other.
2 bars stacked the entire width? In other words what thickness to cover my exterior dimensions?
And how does one clean the pellets out ? Especially in a (hopefully) concentrated area?
Thinking an angled back with a substrate in the floor would be easier...
But I am concerned about bounce back ricochets.
Yes, I use two bars stacked across the target surface area.
If using duct seal, I'd just use a flat surface as the pellet will just embed itself in the duct seal.
I don't bother cleaning out old pellets. Too much trouble. I can usually get 5,000 shots before I need to replace the duct seal in my target trap.
R
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HD
Each bar is about 1 inch thick.
That is generally adequate for low power guns.
HOWEVER #1. Not all duct seal is the same. I have seen and used duct seal that you could easily push your finger into, and others that a pellet would not penetrate the depth of the pellet. You really want the later HARD duct seal. The former soft duct seal will allow the pellets to penetrate very easily, where 2 stacked shots could reach the back of the trap. And requiring constant maintenance to dig out the pellets and fill in the holes created by the pellet hit.
HOWEVER #2. With rifles, you will be shooting several shots into essentially the SAME spot. And even with lower power guns, one 10 shot target could put you through the duct seal and into the back of the box. See HOWEVER #1 above. You also want to move the target around, so you are not shooting at the same spot on the duct seal. Having said that, in my case, a lead pancake forms on the duct seal by the repeated pellet hits. And at a certain point, pellets start to bounce out. Because when they hit the lead pancake, rather than fuse to the pancake, they bounce back out.
Maintenance is periodically digging out the pellets, then filling the hole with more duct seal.
If you want close to zero maintenance, I suggest getting an 22LR trap.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/744831/champion-rimfire-bullet-trap-steel-black (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/744831/champion-rimfire-bullet-trap-steel-black)
Every so often you pour out the accumulated lead.
It is noisier than a duct seal trap.
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As mentioned, one layer of duct seal would be fine. But you might want to check out some threads here about using rubber mulch instead. I've only used duct seal in my traps, but it is REALLY hard to clean out if you shoot multiple targets on the same sheet of paper. The pellets scattered around the trap make it a huge pain the desperate the pellets out. The weight of it now is huge! My next trap will definitely be rubber mulch. Shake it and the pellets fall right to the bottom.
The plaskolite Kris mentioned is great for a target backing. Election signs are a similar type of corrugated plastic, and you can get tons of those free in the next month or so.
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I have several sheets of that corrugated cardboard, metal Realtor signs, Berber carpet remnants, even old T-shirts, and magazines / phone books.
I think it's time to go back to the drawing board.
Thanks folks!
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I have a wooden trap made out of 2x10 fir and filled with two layers of duct seal.
The airguns that are stopped by the duct seal:
QB79 in .177
RWS 350 Magnum .22
1377 - hopped up
1322
Sumatra Carbine .25 at full power and heavy lead
Airguns that threaten to destroy the duct seal and trap:
Sam Yang 909s .45 - Two shots and I split the 2x12 back
Quackenbush.58 outlaw pistol.- knocked the thing back 6 inches and left a crater all the way to the back.
The big bores are banned from shooting at this trap.
Big bores do fine with the hundred pound trap made of 2x4's, double layered back with 2 bags of rubber mulch. Trouble is I don't feel like moving this beast.
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Shredded rubber mulch is quiet ,self healing and will last pretty much forever I built a fairly large trap for the man cave and went with a flat back design with 3 bags of mulch placed on their side one behind the other. Every so often I will put some heavy duct tape to seal the holes in the front bag then give it a few punches to move the mulch around . I also bit three pieces of 16 gauge sheetmetal behind the rubber mulch as a just in case. After 1 1/2 years no penetration to the sheet metal
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I have a duct seal lined, metal and rubber mulch traps. Rubber mulch is definitely the way to go. There are some ideas for homemade traps here.. http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=114511.0 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=114511.0)
I find the rubber mulch is just as quiet as the duct seal if not even more so. I have one that will accommodate a sheet of 8.5X11 paper and takes a little over a bag of mulch. I shoot everything up to a .30 putting out 80ft lb energy with no problems.
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I'll swing by Wal-mart on the way home. They had bags of rubber mulch earlier this summer, maybe now it's on clearance with the rest of the lawn and garden stuff.
There are some ideas for homemade traps here.. http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=114511.0 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=114511.0)
Yep, I posted on that one myself early on... Mine will look familiar in design when you see it. Between the ones on that thread and the "kit" sold by That One Air Gun Company.
Should look similar to this once complete, just planning now on what to "stuff" it with
(https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/ff/f4/46/fff446bf5ea20535aa6da6a354228d2d.jpg)
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I'm just using a home depot bucket. I bag of rubber mulch filled it. I set it on its side and tap targets to the lid. When the lid get too shot up I have a stack of replacements. Here is the targets I use so I don't shoot out the center too fast.
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I'll swing by Wal-mart on the way home. They had bags of rubber mulch earlier this summer, maybe now it's on clearance with the rest of the lawn and garden stuff.
There are some ideas for homemade traps here.. http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=114511.0 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=114511.0)
Yep, I posted on that one myself early on... Mine will look familiar in design when you see it. Between the ones on that thread and the "kit" sold by That One Air Gun Company.
Should look similar to this once complete, just planning now on what to "stuff" it with
(https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/ff/f4/46/fff446bf5ea20535aa6da6a354228d2d.jpg)
I built a trap identical to the one from That One Air Gun Company (pictured). Befuddles me why someone trying to sell a product would provide enough details of it's construction for a customer to build one easily. Oh well.
Like others, I lined it with 2 layers of the duct seal bricks. Works great. Stops everything I got including a 17.5fpe JM sprung HW95.
It's been in service for about a year of heavy use. I pluck out the worst of the clumps every couple of months and plug the cavities created by the plucking with some extra seal I have on hand. It is indeed a pain to clean, and I never endeavor to get all of the pellets out.
On the other hand, the duct seal does it's job beautifully, so I can use it in the shop with peace of mind knowing nothing will pop out or punch through.
Get a few extra clipboards :-[ ::).
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Yep Grover, I agree.
But hey, if he felt compelled to share, I'll use it!
I plan on cutting the center out of the clipboard and replacements are easy to find for the "near miss" shots. ::)
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I am in process of building my indoor pellet trap for the winter months and can either angle the back with a steel plate liner, or mahe a flat back with Duct Seal. I like the idea of Duct Seal due to it being quite on impact. Means I can shoot in the early mornings while Hoosier Momma is still snoozin.
All that said, I see Duct Seal is sold by the pound (lbs) bars. well, I have no idea what size that would be, but assume it is pretty dense. My pellet stop is designed to hold a 9" x 12" standard clipboard so the back is that size. How much Duct seal will I need to cover that square and at what thickness?
How much duct seal do I use?
None.
First of all I couldn't find it.
Second, it cost more than the bags of rubber mulch I could find at Lowes. One $10 bag of rubber mulch is about .8 cu/ft and is quite enough to stop just about any pellet at any velocity.
Third, it's just a lot less hassle. To clean the pellets out, screen it and they drop out. Put the mulch back in and done. It's also a lot less hassle to put it in a box in the first place. Don't have to stick it or layer it.
At some point, I want to publish my plan for a pellet trap. If I get a "round tuit". ::)
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Yep Grover, I agree.
But hey, if he felt compelled to share, I'll use it!
I plan on cutting the center out of the clipboard and replacements are easy to find for the "near miss" shots. ::)
I cut out the center too with a jigsaw. About 1/2" border sides and bottom work well. Got the wire clip type at menards. Used 3/4" plywood for the box, and doubled up the backside, then spray painted it. A spray painted finish allows for easy repairs (if necessary :-X). Just a pry out the pellet, a dab of plastic wood, and a fresh squirt of paint. ;)
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This is the one I built last year still going strong
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Mine is made from an steel electrical breaker box that's 12x12.
I also put electrical flat junction box 4inch x 4 inch covers inside, (as a just incase measure) then lined with 1 layer of duct seal.
It handles 40+ fpe easily, at 10 meters, stoping in the duct seal with room left over.
I use neodymium magnets to hold the targets to the target frame.
It will outlast me..
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Mine is made from an steel electrical breaker box that's 12x12.
I also put electrical flat junction box 4inch x 4 inch covers inside, (as a just incase measure) then lined with 1 layer of duct seal.
It handles 40+ fpe easily, at 10 meters, stoping in the duct seal with room left over.
I use neodymium magnets to hold the targets to the target frame.
It will outlast me..
pics?
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Here they are, I forgot about putting a second layer of duct seal to the center core as a "just in case" measure when I was tuning a highly modified condor.
It never went through either.
The groups of pellets you see stuck were from .177 GTA matches.
7.9's at 400-550 fps.
They barely penetrated.
(http://i63.tinypic.com/qzi5pz.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2nbf72d.jpg)
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Good idea. Might beat 2 shop hours making and finishing a box.
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Working in the shop is always rewarding.
But at the time I needed this, we were in an apartment, and building was not an option.
I think I paid about $25 for it and the duct seal a few years ago.
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I'm just using a home depot bucket. I bag of rubber mulch filled it. I set it on its side and tap targets to the lid. When the lid get too shot up I have a stack of replacements. Here is the targets I use so I don't shoot out the center too fast.
I made a trap of rubber mulch with a rubber-maid box turned on its side. Duct tape or Gorilla tape was used to tape the lid on the box. To make it stay on good and tight, I wrapped tape all around the box to keep the lid from popping off.
Once the lid gets so many holes in it, I just cover them over with strips of duct tape and re-covered every time I get a lot of holes in the lid.
I read, on another thread, that once he feels that he has enough pellets he dumps everything into a large container or wash tub of water. The mulch floats to the top and the lead pellets sink to the bottom.
The mulch is removed from the surface of the water to be recycled and the pellets are taken from the bottom of the wash tub.
I'll never go back to using duct seal.
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About the duct seal trap made with an electrical box.
I have one, and the trap balance is back heavy. A light push and it will fall over on its back.
If you have it against a wall, or other heavy object, then not a problem.
I attached an "L" bracket to the back of the box to provide support, so the box won't fall over, as my setup is free-standing.
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So, I went to home depot and got maybe a 30 gallon square plastic container with a cheap plastic lid. I then bought two bags of rubber mulch and a roll of duct tape. I went home, filled the contained, put the lid on and duct taped around the whole thing to keep the lid closed when I sit on an end. I then used the same duct tape to tape a piece of cardboard to the lid. I have all types of powerd guns and some that may punch through the cardboard, may not make it through the plastic lid. No matter, I've since shot a nice round hole in the center of the contained - now I just change out cardboard and use shoot and see targets. It stops my .30 Carnivore at 80 fpe with no problem. I used to have a huge pallet and stacks of wood, but I shot through all of it. This new trap is working awesomely!
Wow, I just noticed steelontarget did almost the exact same thing. It works great!
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;) Here is mine from year and half ago
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Duct seal is Great stuff for pellet stop.While shooting @ 15 yards w/Gamo Whisper Fusion Pro in 22 cal .,9gr. through 16 gr.pellets penetrate 1/2" to 3/4"...
A 5 shot 1 hole group @ 15 yards-----Still NONE penetrated through 1" duct seal....Great stuff !:)
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Amazon Prime(free shipping) has 5 lbs. of it for $17.00
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THANKS!!
If I have a 12 x 12 back, how many pounds to make an inch?
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THANKS!!
If I have a 12 x 12 back, how many pounds to make an inch?
Each block is ~1lb at least the ones I purchased at Home Depot were
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I use a 5-1/2" square pellet trap and line it two layer thick with duct seal. I just cut out the center yesterday to replace it. I shoot indoors at around 10 yards with all calibers and power levels. It's been 2-3 years in use but a few rounds lately have bounced out of the trap or sounded as if falling out. What I found while cutting out the center was a mass of lead that went almost to the back of the trap. Rounds were welded into a ball. LOL
Took me only 1 bar to replace the center of the trap that I cut out.
Ball of scrap will be melted down to make spinner/buzz baits.
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I have used a Lowe's bucket, kitty litter, and foam floor mats. Fill the bucket with the litter, then cut the floor mat to fit snugly into the tub....then press in. Lay the bucket on its side and your good to shoot.
Had one in my garage I shot a bunch over the course of a year. Nothing made it through, never had a "soft spot", and was extremely quiet. It weighed quite a bit, but being on a shelf in the garage weight wasn't an issue.
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THANKS!!
If I have a 12 x 12 back, how many pounds to make an inch?
The duct seal from Home Depot is:
Dimensions
Product Depth (in.) - 2
Product Width (in.) - 7
Product Height (in.) - 1.1
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-1-lb-Plug-Duct-Seal-Compound-DS-110/100212441 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-1-lb-Plug-Duct-Seal-Compound-DS-110/100212441)
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Follow up on the duct seal.....Just finished a 17 shot group at my 15 yard indoor range(On the pellets and gun I posted here a few days ago)...This group of 17 were pretty much a 1 hole group....NO pellets passed though the 1" thick seal.Instead, they seem to be just piling up.Creating a 'mass' of lead.
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Roger that... 1"
I am currently using a cardboard box filled with news-paper. The wood is all cut for the pellet trap.
Things are looking up!
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Playground rubber mulch from Home Depot works awesomely.
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Got about 4 inch thick of duct seal in a 8x10 box and found out last week when I shot my 357 titan with a 126 g bullits at around 880 it cant handle it, do have a hole in my shop now, lesson learned. I got duct tape on the hole. David
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Got about 4 inch thick of duct seal in a 8x10 box and found out last week when I shot my 357 titan with a 126 g bullits at around 880 it cant handle it, do have a hole in my shop now, lesson learned. I got duct tape on the hole. David
That is why I have three pieces of 16 gauge sheet metal as a backer behind my 12 inches of shredded rubber mulch , "for just in case" ;D ;D
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The pellet trap in this video is about 1/3 larger than the one that I have set up in my house for airgun shooting. This was the video that convinced me to try the rubber mulch instead of continuing to use the duct seal. I will never go back to duct seal again.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F7F9ebfNYDc (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F7F9ebfNYDc)
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Surprised the 223 didn't pass through too. 7.63x39 did as well as 300 Blackout.
Good stuff but I'll stick to my duct seal lines pellet trap for my use in my shop.
:)
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Amazon Prime(free shipping) has 5 lbs. of it for $17.00
Finished my indoor trap over the weekend and just ordered this today.
5lbs of Gardner Bender Duct seal
11.6 x 10.6 x 5.2 inches
Should be plenty. Enough for 2" thick and left overs for patching in the future.
Thanks guys, much appreciated!
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Hey Scott, I'll be interested to see how this goes. I don't think I can quite get my head around how a 1 lb. package is 6.4 x 1.4 x 1.8 inches and a 5 lb. package is 10.63 x 11.63 x 5.25 inches?? :o I put 16 lbs. in mine to get 2" of coverage.
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I know, right!
I assume it is either because of different density or a miss-print at Amazon.
There was another 5 lbs pack made by NSI for the same price that was listed as 5"H X 10"L X 5"W.
So either it pays to read the fine print.... or someone didn't proof read the fine print. ::)
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Scott.... My duct seal trap is 10 X 12 inside dimensions and IIRC I also used 16lbs(with 1/2 lb left over ) of duct seal to get 2". Might be a decimal point or 2 in the wrong place on the measurements in the ad :o
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My finished Trap measures 12-1/2" High x 9-3/4"Wide on the inside... that is exactly why I started this thread titled "How much Duct seal?"
Guess we will see what I get vs what was advertised... but I thought 5 lbs at 11.6 x 10.6 x 5.2 inches ( LINKY (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VZPWZW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) ) would be plenty.
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u670/Hoosierb17/Hobbies/IMG_20170110_183452950_zpsm3nyc8hb.jpg)
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Just remember that 1 pellet may only weigh 10 or so grains but several thousand will surprise you. My duct seal trap was about that size and when I took it off the shelf ::) ::) I almost gave myself a hernia ;D ;D ;D
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That is some funny sh..tuff right there.
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Your trap turned out great, Scott!! I uglied mine up sighting in the Armada. Shot the face frame not only once but twice to make sure that I had fouled it up royally. ::) I'm going to make some aluminum tread plate pieces to cover the frame.
I'm betting that the dimensions are a misprint on Amazon. Don't think 5 lbs can be that size. Interested in what you get.
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I had one of these lying around collecting dust.So I turned it into a pellet trap.Also added another 1" of dust seal just to be safe,giving me a total of 2" thick.
>> http://www.hayneedle.com/product/world-traveler-london-deluxe-executive-business-attache-case-black.cfm (http://www.hayneedle.com/product/world-traveler-london-deluxe-executive-business-attache-case-black.cfm)
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How cool is THAT?!
Imagine showing up to a shoot with that handcuffed to your wrist, unlocking it, opening it up, and it's a PELLET TRAP
8)
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I'm betting that the dimensions are a misprint on Amazon. Don't think 5 lbs can be that size. Interested in what you get.
Yep, some one is whacked...Arrived today.
Let's try 11" X 5" X 1" shall we... :-\
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I'm betting that the dimensions are a misprint on Amazon. Don't think 5 lbs can be that size. Interested in what you get.
Yep, some one is whacked...Arrived today.
Let's try 11" X 5" X 1" shall we... :-\
Looking at your trap If I am not mistaken mine was close to the same size and in order to get 2" thick I needed about 10 or 15 LBS
PS that's why I went to shredded rubber mulch, cheaper in the long run and self healing
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I'm betting that the dimensions are a misprint on Amazon. Don't think 5 lbs can be that size. Interested in what you get.
Yep, some one is whacked...Arrived today.
Let's try 11" X 5" X 1" shall we... :-\
Sorry. So far today that's one in a row of things I've been right about.
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&^^&... simply that.
I was gonna do wadded up denim (old jeans) but this was too inviting.
Lessens learned and left a review on false advertising of product dimensions to help others.
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Ya know in 15 years of forums, the one and only forum I was banned on was for "circumventing" the Big Brother by putting a dash between each letter of &^^&.
I responded with I would say &^^& to my minister and not give it a second thought. No love on the issue.
After all, the man who invented the modern toilets last name was &^^& and that is why today we call it a "Crapper".
Let's see how that friggin reads! ;D ;) :-X
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&^^&... simply that.
I was gonna do wadded up denim (old jeans) but this was too inviting.
Lessens learned and left a review on false advertising of product dimensions to help others.
Speaking of less than stellar Amazon transactions, yesterday I received a 12 pc. Dremel burr set....sort of. Ordered them in order to de-burr the hole that I'm gonna open up in the barrel of the Armada. Open the package and all that's in there is one half of the plastic case that the 12 burrs are supposed to be in. Not one single burr. Package is perfectly fine so obviously they were never in there. Go figure. Did the refund deal but I guarantee you that they are going to have a fit when all the get back from me is what they sent me.
And BTW..I got nailed on that word that begins with a "c" also and I am a minister. lol...
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And BTW..I got nailed on that word that begins with a "c" also and I am a minister. lol...
The more I learn, the more I like about you Brother Terry.
It's all a bunch of &^^& I tell ya! ;)
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And BTW..I got nailed on that word that begins with a "c" also and I am a minister. lol...
The more I learn, the more I like about you Brother Terry.
It's all a bunch of &^^& I tell ya! ;)
Thanks! My wife and I pastor a church that meets in a low income apartment complex. We meet in the maintenance room every Sunday. Been there for 6 years. And we allow you to say &^^& whenever you want. ;D
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Awesome trap, scott. I need to do something like that! My current trap is a cereal box stuffed with a phone book and old (clean) socks lol
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Thanks Austin, it has been a fun little project.
I will probably swing by Home Depot in a neighboring town to get the remainder of the duct seal needed.
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Thanks Austin, it has been a fun little project.
I will probably swing by Home Depot in a neighboring town to get the remainder of the duct seal needed.
;) Roughly ~$2.50 per 1lb block. Good luck and have fun shooting quietly the only sound from the targets will be the pellet hitting the target ;D ;D
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http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-1-lb-Plug-Duct-Seal-Compound-DS-110/100212441 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-1-lb-Plug-Duct-Seal-Compound-DS-110/100212441)
My local store shows 15 lbs on the shelf.
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Interesting reading here! I shoot only PCP pistols (FWB P44, Steyr P10, Morini 162e) so not much worry over too much power. My "range" is wide enough for three 10 meter targets with duct seal about 1 1/2" thick over the entire backboard (plywood). I got a Lowes garage cabinet and put wheels under it and built my backstop on top. It has an LED light bar (Lowes) for illumination. The lower half has my "wolf range", which is a standard metal silhouette gallery (eBay) with magnetic stops and center shoot reset. I use the base cabinet for my guns and targets, pellets, scale, etc. Very nice unit and very quiet. I have this setup in my garage (formerly a motorhome garage) and shoot between the cars (not much chance of an accident or I wouldn't do it or let visitors do it). I shoot from 10 meters and have a scope to avoid the number of trips back and forth. (BTW, visitors shoot from 15 feet until I feel comfortable with their prowess !)
This cabinette and backstop is not really very expensive and, with the wheels, could be used in any situation and put out of the way when not in use. I hope this gives many of you some ideas and inspires you to do more shooting.
Now, anyone in the Prescott, Arizona, area is welcome to come shoot with me.
Happy Trails,
Dusty Johnson
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Hey Dusty.Nice cars.Wanna race ? See avatar... ;D
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Thanks for sharing Dusty!
The cabinet underneath for raising it's height and storage is something I hadn't thought of!
And yes, nice stable.
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Great looking range Dusty, but don't shoot that 'vette!
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Great looking range Dusty, but don't shoot that 'vette!
I would suggest don't sneeze when you pull the trigger cause there is a whole lot of expensive paint to the left and right ;)